I have a nesting 2-paw-9 dinghy for my 28' sailboat that I have always
rowed. For the oars, I have used the type of oarlocks that attach to
the oars and then insert into a female socket on the dinghy. I like
this because there is nothing that can get lost; the oarlock is
permanently on the oars so nothing gets lost. Unfortunately, these
are all made of mild steel (non-stainless) so they always rust. What
alternatives exist? Everything else I have seen made of bronze
requires some sort of pin through them to keep them from coming out of
the socket and getting lost. When you do take them out you have to
keep track of them. I bet I would have them for maybe a week before
losing one overboard. The type I have seen with a pin THROUGH the oar
are all made of mild steel so will rust. There must be a bronze or
stainless version of the type that is attached to the oars.

"Frogwatch" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have a nesting 2-paw-9 dinghy for my 28' sailboat that I have always
rowed. For the oars, I have used the type of oarlocks that attach to
the oars and then insert into a female socket on the dinghy. I like
this because there is nothing that can get lost; the oarlock is
permanently on the oars so nothing gets lost. Unfortunately, these
are all made of mild steel (non-stainless) so they always rust. What
alternatives exist? Everything else I have seen made of bronze
requires some sort of pin through them to keep them from coming out of
the socket and getting lost. When you do take them out you have to
keep track of them. I bet I would have them for maybe a week before
losing one overboard. The type I have seen with a pin THROUGH the oar
are all made of mild steel so will rust. There must be a bronze or
stainless version of the type that is attached to the oars.



Anything here look interesting?
http://barkleysoundoar.com/oarlock.htm

Frogwatch wrote:
I have a nesting 2-paw-9 dinghy for my 28' sailboat that I have always
rowed. For the oars, I have used the type of oarlocks that attach to
the oars and then insert into a female socket on the dinghy. I like
this because there is nothing that can get lost; the oarlock is
permanently on the oars so nothing gets lost. Unfortunately, these
are all made of mild steel (non-stainless) so they always rust. What
alternatives exist? Everything else I have seen made of bronze
requires some sort of pin through them to keep them from coming out of
the socket and getting lost. When you do take them out you have to
keep track of them. I bet I would have them for maybe a week before
losing one overboard. The type I have seen with a pin THROUGH the oar
are all made of mild steel so will rust. There must be a bronze or
stainless version of the type that is attached to the oars.


I thought they were quite common - all my oars have them, and I even
carry a spare set on the boat because they can escape over the leathers.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...&classNum=null
http://tinyurl.com/3b8e3n

or

http://www.shawandtenney.com/marine-hardware.htm

"Frogwatch" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have a nesting 2-paw-9 dinghy for my 28' sailboat that I have always
rowed. For the oars, I have used the type of oarlocks that attach to
the oars and then insert into a female socket on the dinghy. I like
this because there is nothing that can get lost; the oarlock is
permanently on the oars so nothing gets lost. Unfortunately, these
are all made of mild steel (non-stainless) so they always rust. What
alternatives exist? Everything else I have seen made of bronze
requires some sort of pin through them to keep them from coming out of
the socket and getting lost. When you do take them out you have to
keep track of them. I bet I would have them for maybe a week before
losing one overboard. The type I have seen with a pin THROUGH the oar
are all made of mild steel so will rust. There must be a bronze or
stainless version of the type that is attached to the oars.


Get a pair of the round oarlocks
http://www.shawandtenney.com/images/...d-and-horn.jpg (on the
left). Then install a pair of oar sleeves to prevent wear and keep the
oarlock from coming adrift.
http://www.aaainflatables.com/produc...ProductID=1931

I've used this system for years and it's foolproof. The round oarlock
stays with the oar and you can even use a circle clip to keep the
oarlock and oar attached to the dinghy should it overturn.

Wilbur Hubbard

On Sep 23, 12:50 pm, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:
"Frogwatch" wrote in message

ups.com...

I have a nesting 2-paw-9 dinghy for my 28' sailboat that I have always
rowed. For the oars, I have used the type of oarlocks that attach to
the oars and then insert into a female socket on the dinghy. I like
this because there is nothing that can get lost; the oarlock is
permanently on the oars so nothing gets lost. Unfortunately, these
are all made of mild steel (non-stainless) so they always rust. What
alternatives exist? Everything else I have seen made of bronze
requires some sort of pin through them to keep them from coming out of
the socket and getting lost. When you do take them out you have to
keep track of them. I bet I would have them for maybe a week before
losing one overboard. The type I have seen with a pin THROUGH the oar
are all made of mild steel so will rust. There must be a bronze or
stainless version of the type that is attached to the oars.

Get a pair of the round oarlockshttp://www.shawandtenney.com/images/oarlocks-round-and-horn.jpg(on the
left). Then install a pair of oar sleeves to prevent wear and keep the
oarlock from coming adrift.http://www.aaainflatables.com/produc...ProductID=1931

I've used this system for years and it's foolproof. The round oarlock
stays with the oar and you can even use a circle clip to keep the
oarlock and oar attached to the dinghy should it overturn.

Wilbur Hubbard

I just found the SS oarlocks that clamp to the oars in the WEST
catalogue. Last time I looked they did not have them and neither
ddoes Jamestwon Dist. so I assumed nobody made them. I ordered them.
Thanks all. BTW Wilbur, This still looks simpler to me than the round
oarlocks and sleeves although I considered your method.

On Mon, 24 Sep 2007 12:21:08 -0700, Frogwatch
wrote:

The type I have seen with a pin THROUGH the oar
are all made of mild steel so will rust. There must be a bronze or
stainless version of the type that is attached to the oars.

You can always have the mild steel ones hot dip galvanized. I like the
round ones, as they can be feathered, but whatever.

Casady

On Mon, 24 Sep 2007 23:15:58 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:

I like the
round ones, as they can be feathered, but whatever.

I'll second that and add a couple of other reasons:

The U-shaped locks are dangerous if someone falls on them, and they
can allow the oars to escape at inopportune moments.

The "captive pin" oarlocks weaken the oar and prevent feathering.

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 24 Sep 2007 23:15:58 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:

I like the
round ones, as they can be feathered, but whatever.

I'll second that and add a couple of other reasons:

The U-shaped locks are dangerous if someone falls on them, and they
can allow the oars to escape at inopportune moments.

The "captive pin" oarlocks weaken the oar and prevent feathering.



One can always tell a serious rowing dinghy by the oars, oarlocks and
oarlock sockets. The oars should be manufactured from wood. The oarlocks
should be round and made from bronze and the sockets should also be
bronze and secured to the gunnels with bolts and not screws. Placement
is important and should be so that the arms can straighten during the
stroke. The oars should be long enough so the shaft clears the gunnels
and shows no wear but not so long that the oar will not fit into the
length of the dinghy. The round oarlocks allow feathering which is
important to proper rowing technique. The round oarlocks and oar sleeves
produce very little wear and keep things quite. A real traditionalist
will use leather sleeves but I like the modern plastic sleeve attached
with brass nails. The oars themselves should be kept well varnished or
painted. The business end should be free of splits or cracks. The grip
should be smooth and not overly large for the hand. Some folks like a
rubber grip but I prefer painted or varnished wood.

Rowing a dinghy is an art - a SILENT art. One must have the proper
traditional equipment in order to do it right and to be though well of
by others in the know. Nothing says novice like those silly horn
oarlocks that use a pin through the oar. Here he comes, squeak, clunk,
squeak clunk, squeak clunk! Sillier yet is the clamp-on type. Freaking
lubbers!

Wilbur Hubbard

On Sep 25, 10:01 am, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message

...

On Mon, 24 Sep 2007 23:15:58 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:

I like the
round ones, as they can be feathered, but whatever.

I'll second that and add a couple of other reasons:

The U-shaped locks are dangerous if someone falls on them, and they
can allow the oars to escape at inopportune moments.

The "captive pin" oarlocks weaken the oar and prevent feathering.

One can always tell a serious rowing dinghy by the oars, oarlocks and
oarlock sockets. The oars should be manufactured from wood. The oarlocks
should be round and made from bronze and the sockets should also be
bronze and secured to the gunnels with bolts and not screws. Placement
is important and should be so that the arms can straighten during the
stroke. The oars should be long enough so the shaft clears the gunnels
and shows no wear but not so long that the oar will not fit into the
length of the dinghy. The round oarlocks allow feathering which is
important to proper rowing technique. The round oarlocks and oar sleeves
produce very little wear and keep things quite. A real traditionalist
will use leather sleeves but I like the modern plastic sleeve attached
with brass nails. The oars themselves should be kept well varnished or
painted. The business end should be free of splits or cracks. The grip
should be smooth and not overly large for the hand. Some folks like a
rubber grip but I prefer painted or varnished wood.

Rowing a dinghy is an art - a SILENT art. One must have the proper
traditional equipment in order to do it right and to be though well of
by others in the know. Nothing says novice like those silly horn
oarlocks that use a pin through the oar. Here he comes, squeak, clunk,
squeak clunk, squeak clunk! Sillier yet is the clamp-on type. Freaking
lubbers!

Wilbur Hubbard

Proper buggy whip technique is very important. Being well thought of
by expert buggy whippers is truly important. Oh, the horror, I sail
into the anchorage with fenders over the side AND THEN, dare I say it,
I have CLAMP-ON oarlocks. I will be ostracized by Hubbard. I wont be
invited to the commodores ball, Oh the shame.

"Frogwatch" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Sep 25, 10:01 am, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message

...

On Mon, 24 Sep 2007 23:15:58 GMT,
(Richard
Casady) wrote:

I like the
round ones, as they can be feathered, but whatever.

I'll second that and add a couple of other reasons:

The U-shaped locks are dangerous if someone falls on them, and they
can allow the oars to escape at inopportune moments.

The "captive pin" oarlocks weaken the oar and prevent feathering.

One can always tell a serious rowing dinghy by the oars, oarlocks and
oarlock sockets. The oars should be manufactured from wood. The
oarlocks
should be round and made from bronze and the sockets should also be
bronze and secured to the gunnels with bolts and not screws.
Placement
is important and should be so that the arms can straighten during the
stroke. The oars should be long enough so the shaft clears the
gunnels
and shows no wear but not so long that the oar will not fit into the
length of the dinghy. The round oarlocks allow feathering which is
important to proper rowing technique. The round oarlocks and oar
sleeves
produce very little wear and keep things quite. A real traditionalist
will use leather sleeves but I like the modern plastic sleeve
attached
with brass nails. The oars themselves should be kept well varnished
or
painted. The business end should be free of splits or cracks. The
grip
should be smooth and not overly large for the hand. Some folks like a
rubber grip but I prefer painted or varnished wood.

Rowing a dinghy is an art - a SILENT art. One must have the proper
traditional equipment in order to do it right and to be thought well
of
by others in the know. Nothing says novice like those silly horn
oarlocks that use a pin through the oar. Here he comes, squeak,
clunk,
squeak clunk, squeak clunk! Sillier yet is the clamp-on type.
Freaking
lubbers!

Wilbur Hubbard

Proper buggy whip technique is very important. Being well thought of
by expert buggy whippers is truly important. Oh, the horror, I sail
into the anchorage with fenders over the side AND THEN, dare I say it,
I have CLAMP-ON oarlocks. I will be ostracized by Hubbard. I wont be
invited to the commodores ball, Oh the shame.



My dear chap, if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. Any old fool
can do a half-arsed job. You can do better than that, sir. You asked
for advice yet you proceeded to ignore years of experience talking. Why
bother asking. Keep quiet next time, then.

Wilbur Hubbard