On Thu, 23 Aug 2007 12:54:07 -0400, "Armond Perretta"
wrote:

wrote:

Use a tricolor with an integral anchor light on the mast head and a
motoring light at the spreaders. That should be sufficient.

Bruce in Bangkok

I don't know what the rules are in Bangkok, but in the States and most
European countries the mast light (aka "steaming light") must be mounted
_above_ the other lights (red/green/stern) when under power (or for that
matter when the engine is running even when not in gear)..

This means obviously that using a masthead tricolor with a steaming light
mounted somewhere lower on the mast is in violation.


You are right. The tri-color masthead light with a clear anchor light
built into the fixture above the tri-color is a pretty common fixture.
I was incorrect in saying or implying that the steaming light was to
be mounted below the tri-color. It must be above the side lights.


Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeATgmailDOTcom)

Use a tricolor with an integral anchor light on the mast head and a
motoring light at the spreaders. That should be sufficient.



Nope. The tricolor is only good while sailing. When motoring, you must
use traditional side lights.

bob
s/v Eolian
Seattle

Terry,
This is a very common problem and common sense provides the solution. First
do not use a connector. Instead use an old fashion bakelite terminal strip.
Second, all mast wires exit the mast above the deck and make a "U" turn up
into a "J" pipe in stainless and then back down below deck to the terminal
block. In this way, all condensation and rain water that drips down the mast
wires drips off the wires above deck. At the entrance to the "J" pipe
install a soft rubber gland with a hose clamp on the wires and on the
stainless pipe. Problem solved. When removing mast, just disconnect the
wires from the terminal block below deck, loosen the rubber gland hose clamp
at the "J" pipe and remove the wires as a laced bundle with the rubber
gland.
Steve

"terry" wrote in message
ups.com...
Westerly 1970s all fiberglass 26 footer. Previous owner replaced mast
and rigging but in the process installed deck mounted connectors (good
quality marine type) for the mast wiring that allowed water to get
into a substantial wooden block buried in the deck under the mast
step. That block is further supported by a stainless steel column
that goes down to the keel.

During winter storage the water soaked wood burst the f.glass deck
around the mast step. It's now all replaced.

Now wondering best way to connect the revamped mast wiring (Approx.
seven wires plus an RG58 coax. for the top of the mast VHF whip).**

Certainly resolved to have any wiring holes and/or mounting screws
well away from the wooden block. Also maybe prefer not to have any
connectors at all?

That would mean poking the bunch of wires from the mast through
something (a caulked hole or gland or ???) in the deck to be, say,
connected individually once per season to a terminal strip in the
toilet ('Head') compartment below. Pondering various alternatives.

Any advice please would be most appreciated.

BTW ** We now have all the nav. lights on the mast rather than lower
down on the hull and cabin sides of the boat. The original (previously
replaced!) stern light for example was for ever getting stepped on and
damaged. The individual cabin side port/starboard lights had long ago
been replaced by a red/green bow pulpit one that also suffered damage
and or got tangled with jib sheets etc. Any comments/advice on this
also appreciated.

terry wrote:

Westerly 1970s all fiberglass 26 footer. Previous owner replaced mast
and rigging but in the process installed deck mounted connectors (good
quality marine type) for the mast wiring that allowed water to get
into a substantial wooden block buried in the deck under the mast
step. That block is further supported by a stainless steel column
that goes down to the keel.

During winter storage the water soaked wood burst the f.glass deck
around the mast step. It's now all replaced.

Now wondering best way to connect the revamped mast wiring (Approx.
seven wires plus an RG58 coax. for the top of the mast VHF whip).**

Certainly resolved to have any wiring holes and/or mounting screws
well away from the wooden block. Also maybe prefer not to have any
connectors at all?

Thats fine if you never have to lower or remove the mast. I would go for
using connectors. My Westerly Cirrus (1971) came with deck connectors.
I have had to replace these a few times over the years, but I never had the
problems you encountered. If the connector is properly seated and sealed
as a thru hull installation, you should not have any problems.

Sherwin D.



That would mean poking the bunch of wires from the mast through
something (a caulked hole or gland or ???) in the deck to be, say,
connected individually once per season to a terminal strip in the
toilet ('Head') compartment below. Pondering various alternatives.

Any advice please would be most appreciated.

BTW ** We now have all the nav. lights on the mast rather than lower
down on the hull and cabin sides of the boat. The original (previously
replaced!) stern light for example was for ever getting stepped on and
damaged. The individual cabin side port/starboard lights had long ago
been replaced by a red/green bow pulpit one that also suffered damage
and or got tangled with jib sheets etc. Any comments/advice on this
also appreciated.

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
Thats fine if you never have to lower or remove the mast. I would go
for
using connectors. My Westerly Cirrus (1971) came with deck connectors.
I have had to replace these a few times over the years, but I never had
the
problems you encountered. If the connector is properly seated and
sealed
as a thru hull installation, you should not have any problems.

Sherwin D.


My Sabre has connectors hidden inside the mast under a plate. I'm really
glad I have them, since my steaming light was intermittent and I couldn't
find the problem until I replaced the connectors. Definitely easier than
restringing wire. :-)

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 12:33:24 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

My Sabre has connectors hidden inside the mast under a plate. I'm really
glad I have them, since my steaming light was intermittent and I couldn't
find the problem until I replaced the connectors. Definitely easier than
restringing wire.

Since it was the connector caused the problem, I fail to see how
fixing it was easier than leaving a good [continuous] wire alone. The
connector was the problem, not the solution. Simpler is most often
better. You may need to remove the mast, so they put a break in the
wires, at the expense of reliability. Nothing is ever free.

Casady

"Richard Casady" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 12:33:24 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

My Sabre has connectors hidden inside the mast under a plate. I'm really
glad I have them, since my steaming light was intermittent and I couldn't
find the problem until I replaced the connectors. Definitely easier than
restringing wire.

Since it was the connector caused the problem, I fail to see how
fixing it was easier than leaving a good [continuous] wire alone. The
connector was the problem, not the solution. Simpler is most often
better. You may need to remove the mast, so they put a break in the
wires, at the expense of reliability. Nothing is ever free.

Casady


Nothing is free, but it sure is easier to fix than restringing the wire.
This arrangement allows me to add instrumentation without having to pull
wire around a lot of corners for example. Given that the wiring is at least
in part from 1982, I think it's done pretty well.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

On Aug 29, 4:51 am, sherwindu wrote:
terry wrote:
Westerly 1970s all fiberglass 26 footer. Previous owner replaced mast
and rigging but in the process installed deck mounted connectors (good
quality marine type) for the mast wiring that allowed water to get
into a substantial wooden block buried in the deck under the mast
step. That block is further supported by a stainless steel column
that goes down to the keel.

During winter storage the water soaked wood burst the f.glass deck
around the mast step. It's now all replaced.

Now wondering best way to connect the revamped mast wiring (Approx.
seven wires plus an RG58 coax. for the top of the mast VHF whip).**

Certainly resolved to have any wiring holes and/or mounting screws
well away from the wooden block. Also maybe prefer not to have any
connectors at all?

Thats fine if you never have to lower or remove the mast. I would go for
using connectors. My Westerly Cirrus (1971) came with deck connectors.
I have had to replace these a few times over the years, but I never had the
problems you encountered. If the connector is properly seated and sealed
as a thru hull installation, you should not have any problems.

Sherwin D.





That would mean poking the bunch of wires from the mast through
something (a caulked hole or gland or ???) in the deck to be, say,
connected individually once per season to a terminal strip in the
toilet ('Head') compartment below. Pondering various alternatives.

Any advice please would be most appreciated.

BTW ** We now have all the nav. lights on the mast rather than lower
down on the hull and cabin sides of the boat. The original (previously
replaced!) stern light for example was for ever getting stepped on and
damaged. The individual cabin side port/starboard lights had long ago
been replaced by a red/green bow pulpit one that also suffered damage
and or got tangled with jib sheets etc. Any comments/advice on this
also appreciated.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks Sherwin but we HAVE had the problem and fixed it. Since there
is only one small hole near bottom of mast through which wires enter
don't feel like enlarging it to poke connectors inside hollow mast.
Although I'd like to do that.
So the choices are;
a) Two connectors (a total of some 7 wires) going to two locations
though the mast plus a VHF coax, hanging from wires and probably taped
or strapped to outside surface of mast.
b) Deck mounted connectors which in view of previous water entry into
the deck and subsequent freezing would have be a long way from mast
base in an area of f.glass only decking. Thus increased chance of
damage and foot tripping etc.
c) Run the wires without connectors through a J pipe permanently
fiberglassed into the deck presently being home made and terminnate
the wires individually on a terminal strip in the toilet compartment.
Reconnect once per year when boat goes in the water.
The total thickness of deck in vicinity of the wooden block under the
mast step is I reckon about 60mm (2 to 2.5 inches. A wooden block or
bearing plate with f.glass above and below it.
This all part of completely rewiring the whole boat. Adding an 80 to
100 amp alternator to the Volvo MD-1in place of the 8 amp starter
generator etc. Note: We'd have to run the engine for about 10 hours to
recharge a flat 60 to 70 amp.hour battery with the original only 8
amps!
Regards.