Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Paging Peggie Hall
Peggie -
Your expertise is needed on the Sabre list - Fwd - From: Nauset Beach Reply-To: To: Subject: [sabre-list] Head Maintenance Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 09:51:21 -0500 With all this "head" talk I have a question for the list On some winterizing check lists it is suggested the head should be lubricated - but it never says with what. Have heard that plain cooking/vegetable oil should be used, but others say that is too organic and breaks down quickly. Others suggest mineral oil. West Marine has a product called "Headlube". What do people use, if anything? How often? Thanks, Brian |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Paging Peggie Hall
Eric wrote:
Peggie - Your expertise is needed on the Sabre list - Fwd - With all this "head" talk I have a question for the list On some winterizing check lists it is suggested the head should be lubricated - but it never says with what. Have heard that plain cooking/vegetable oil should be used, but others say that is too organic and breaks down quickly. Others suggest mineral oil. West Marine has a product called "Headlube". What do people use, if anything? How often? Post this in answer to his question, and tell 'em I'll be there later today to answer follow up questions: Many people just wait till the toilet starts to squeak and become hard to pump, then pour some mineral oil or vegetable oil down it. That’s ok in an emergency, till you can get home and do it right, but it’s not the best way to maintain the toilet. Not only is this very hard on the toilet, but it’s a never-ending job because anything poured down the toilet washes out in just a few flushes. Why is it hard on the toilet? Because a toilet doesn’t squeak unless it needs lubrication; that squeaking is the sound of seals rubbing against the inside of the housing, being worn away. Waiting till it squeaks to lubricate it is like waiting till an engine starts to smoke to add oil. Pouring oil down the toilet also creates a surface inside the discharge hose that’s sticky—a trap for bits of paper and solid waste to build up inside it. Enough of it creates an oil slick on the surface in holding tank, which increases odor problems. It can also damage a Type I or II treatment device. Ever wondered why a new toilet doesn’t need any lubrication for at least a year? It’s because every toilet leaves the factory slathered with thick Teflon grease that takes a full season or more to be flushed out. Replacing it just once a year is all it takes to keep a toilet pumping smoothly. And it’s only a 15 minute job—just open up the top of the pump and put a healthy squirt of it into it…pump the toilet a few times to get it all through the pump, and you’re “good to go” for the entire season. And, by keeping the pump lubricated this way, you extend the life of the seals and valves, reducing the need for rebuilds. The best time to lubricate a toilet is in the fall, as part of winterizing. The Teflon grease protects the rubber parts in the toilet from drying out, which also extends their life. Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Paging Peggie Hall
Eric wrote:
Peggie - Your expertise is needed on the Sabre list - Fwd - With all this "head" talk I have a question for the list On some winterizing check lists it is suggested the head should be lubricated - but it never says with what. Have heard that plain cooking/vegetable oil should be used, but others say that is too organic and breaks down quickly. Others suggest mineral oil. West Marine has a product called "Headlube". What do people use, if anything? How often? Post this in answer to his question, and tell 'em I'll be there later today to answer follow up questions: Many people just wait till the toilet starts to squeak and become hard to pump, then pour some mineral oil or vegetable oil down it. That’s ok in an emergency, till you can get home and do it right, but it’s not the best way to maintain the toilet. Not only is this very hard on the toilet, but it’s a never-ending job because anything poured down the toilet washes out in just a few flushes. Why is it hard on the toilet? Because a toilet doesn’t squeak unless it needs lubrication; that squeaking is the sound of seals rubbing against the inside of the housing, being worn away. Waiting till it squeaks to lubricate it is like waiting till an engine starts to smoke to add oil. Pouring oil down the toilet also creates a surface inside the discharge hose that’s sticky—a trap for bits of paper and solid waste to build up inside it. Enough of it creates an oil slick on the surface in holding tank, which increases odor problems. It can also damage a Type I or II treatment device. Ever wondered why a new toilet doesn’t need any lubrication for at least a year? It’s because every toilet leaves the factory slathered with thick Teflon grease that takes a full season or more to be flushed out. Replacing it just once a year is all it takes to keep a toilet pumping smoothly. And it’s only a 15 minute job—just open up the top of the pump and put a healthy squirt of it into it…pump the toilet a few times to get it all through the pump, and you’re “good to go” for the entire season. And, by keeping the pump lubricated this way, you extend the life of the seals and valves, reducing the need for rebuilds. The best time to lubricate a toilet is in the fall, as part of winterizing. The Teflon grease protects the rubber parts in the toilet from drying out, which also extends their life. Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Paging Peggie Hall
Thanks Peggie - I posted your response on the other list.
Happy Holidays! Eric Peggie Hall wrote in message ... Eric wrote: Peggie - Your expertise is needed on the Sabre list - Fwd - With all this "head" talk I have a question for the list On some winterizing check lists it is suggested the head should be lubricated - but it never says with what. Have heard that plain cooking/vegetable oil should be used, but others say that is too organic and breaks down quickly. Others suggest mineral oil. West Marine has a product called "Headlube". What do people use, if anything? How often? Post this in answer to his question, and tell 'em I'll be there later today to answer follow up questions: Many people just wait till the toilet starts to squeak and become hard to pump, then pour some mineral oil or vegetable oil down it. That’s ok in an emergency, till you can get home and do it right, but it’s not the best way to maintain the toilet. Not only is this very hard on the toilet, but it’s a never-ending job because anything poured down the toilet washes out in just a few flushes. Why is it hard on the toilet? Because a toilet doesn’t squeak unless it needs lubrication; that squeaking is the sound of seals rubbing against the inside of the housing, being worn away. Waiting till it squeaks to lubricate it is like waiting till an engine starts to smoke to add oil. Pouring oil down the toilet also creates a surface inside the discharge hose that’s sticky—a trap for bits of paper and solid waste to build up inside it. Enough of it creates an oil slick on the surface in holding tank, which increases odor problems. It can also damage a Type I or II treatment device. Ever wondered why a new toilet doesn’t need any lubrication for at least a year? It’s because every toilet leaves the factory slathered with thick Teflon grease that takes a full season or more to be flushed out. Replacing it just once a year is all it takes to keep a toilet pumping smoothly. And it’s only a 15 minute job—just open up the top of the pump and put a healthy squirt of it into it…pump the toilet a few times to get it all through the pump, and you’re “good to go” for the entire season. And, by keeping the pump lubricated this way, you extend the life of the seals and valves, reducing the need for rebuilds. The best time to lubricate a toilet is in the fall, as part of winterizing. The Teflon grease protects the rubber parts in the toilet from drying out, which also extends their life. Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Paging Peggie Hall
Thanks Peggie - I posted your response on the other list.
Happy Holidays! Eric Peggie Hall wrote in message ... Eric wrote: Peggie - Your expertise is needed on the Sabre list - Fwd - With all this "head" talk I have a question for the list On some winterizing check lists it is suggested the head should be lubricated - but it never says with what. Have heard that plain cooking/vegetable oil should be used, but others say that is too organic and breaks down quickly. Others suggest mineral oil. West Marine has a product called "Headlube". What do people use, if anything? How often? Post this in answer to his question, and tell 'em I'll be there later today to answer follow up questions: Many people just wait till the toilet starts to squeak and become hard to pump, then pour some mineral oil or vegetable oil down it. That’s ok in an emergency, till you can get home and do it right, but it’s not the best way to maintain the toilet. Not only is this very hard on the toilet, but it’s a never-ending job because anything poured down the toilet washes out in just a few flushes. Why is it hard on the toilet? Because a toilet doesn’t squeak unless it needs lubrication; that squeaking is the sound of seals rubbing against the inside of the housing, being worn away. Waiting till it squeaks to lubricate it is like waiting till an engine starts to smoke to add oil. Pouring oil down the toilet also creates a surface inside the discharge hose that’s sticky—a trap for bits of paper and solid waste to build up inside it. Enough of it creates an oil slick on the surface in holding tank, which increases odor problems. It can also damage a Type I or II treatment device. Ever wondered why a new toilet doesn’t need any lubrication for at least a year? It’s because every toilet leaves the factory slathered with thick Teflon grease that takes a full season or more to be flushed out. Replacing it just once a year is all it takes to keep a toilet pumping smoothly. And it’s only a 15 minute job—just open up the top of the pump and put a healthy squirt of it into it…pump the toilet a few times to get it all through the pump, and you’re “good to go” for the entire season. And, by keeping the pump lubricated this way, you extend the life of the seals and valves, reducing the need for rebuilds. The best time to lubricate a toilet is in the fall, as part of winterizing. The Teflon grease protects the rubber parts in the toilet from drying out, which also extends their life. Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Question for Peggie Hall | General | |||
Peggie Hall question | General | |||
Ping: Peggie Hall | General | |||
Through Hulls, Peggie Hall | Cruising | |||
cleaning water tank - For Peggie Hall | Cruising |