Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors for the new spreader
light wiring that I'm having to do. Any suggestions for inexpensive
and somewhat waterproof 2-conductor connectors for about 14 ga wire?

I've used trailer wire connectors previously and they're certailny
cheap and available -

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

I recommend you purchase some good marine connectors. Their a little more
expensive but certainly much more reliable for something that is "up the
mast"..

Get the kind that have a shrink sleeve over the outside. You just crimp them
on using a good crimping tool. Then you heat shrink the sleeve down onto the
finished connection.

The real good connectors have a adhesive inside that seals the job.

The moto here is "don't go on the cheap" with anything up the mast.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

I recommend you purchase some good marine connectors. Their a little more
expensive but certainly much more reliable for something that is "up the
mast"..

Get the kind that have a shrink sleeve over the outside. You just crimp them
on using a good crimping tool. Then you heat shrink the sleeve down onto the
finished connection.

The real good connectors have a adhesive inside that seals the job.

The moto here is "don't go on the cheap" with anything up the mast.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

solomio,
I have found that some of the "automotive" inline connectors work as well as
the "marine" grade ones do. What sort of connnectors are you seeking? Ones
which can easily be disconnected occasionaly, or permanent connection? If
permanent, I suggest soldering the butt connectors, then heat shrink. I
have also used heat shrink on connectors which are only disconnected once or
twice a year. One other trick is to coat the connector with RTV, then slide
the heat shrink over it and apply the heat. The shrinking heatshrink pushes
out the excess RTV and makes a very water tight seal after it cures.
Good luck with it,
Greg Luckett

"solomio" wrote in message
...
Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors for the new spreader
light wiring that I'm having to do. Any suggestions for inexpensive
and somewhat waterproof 2-conductor connectors for about 14 ga wire?

I've used trailer wire connectors previously and they're certailny
cheap and available -





-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

solomio,
I have found that some of the "automotive" inline connectors work as well as
the "marine" grade ones do. What sort of connnectors are you seeking? Ones
which can easily be disconnected occasionaly, or permanent connection? If
permanent, I suggest soldering the butt connectors, then heat shrink. I
have also used heat shrink on connectors which are only disconnected once or
twice a year. One other trick is to coat the connector with RTV, then slide
the heat shrink over it and apply the heat. The shrinking heatshrink pushes
out the excess RTV and makes a very water tight seal after it cures.
Good luck with it,
Greg Luckett

"solomio" wrote in message
...
Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors for the new spreader
light wiring that I'm having to do. Any suggestions for inexpensive
and somewhat waterproof 2-conductor connectors for about 14 ga wire?

I've used trailer wire connectors previously and they're certailny
cheap and available -





-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Greg wrote:

One other trick is to coat the connector with RTV, then slide
the heat shrink over it and apply the heat. The shrinking heatshrink pushes
out the excess RTV and makes a very water tight seal after it cures.
Good luck with it,

Any seal that relies on RTV will take more than luck. RTV will fail to
seal and water will wick into the connection and destroy it. It is as
predictable as sunrise.

There are many off the shelf connectors and sealing materials for that
application and nearly all of them are far superior to any of the
silicone adhesive sealants so often misused by the DIY'er.

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Greg wrote:

One other trick is to coat the connector with RTV, then slide
the heat shrink over it and apply the heat. The shrinking heatshrink pushes
out the excess RTV and makes a very water tight seal after it cures.
Good luck with it,

Any seal that relies on RTV will take more than luck. RTV will fail to
seal and water will wick into the connection and destroy it. It is as
predictable as sunrise.

There are many off the shelf connectors and sealing materials for that
application and nearly all of them are far superior to any of the
silicone adhesive sealants so often misused by the DIY'er.

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Rick,
The phone companies and the Navy have used RTV for years to make sealed
connections on cables and it will not wick as badly as most off the shelf
connectors will, if done properely. These are for both aerial and
sub-surface applications. I have used it with Canon and Amphenol
multi-conductor cables as well.

As a guess, you have no direct experience using it? If so, tell about what
you actually did?
Greg.

"Rick" wrote in message
link.net...
Greg wrote:

One other trick is to coat the connector with RTV, then slide
the heat shrink over it and apply the heat. The shrinking heatshrink
pushes
out the excess RTV and makes a very water tight seal after it cures.
Good luck with it,

Any seal that relies on RTV will take more than luck. RTV will fail to
seal and water will wick into the connection and destroy it. It is as
predictable as sunrise.

There are many off the shelf connectors and sealing materials for that
application and nearly all of them are far superior to any of the
silicone adhesive sealants so often misused by the DIY'er.

Rick





-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Rick,
The phone companies and the Navy have used RTV for years to make sealed
connections on cables and it will not wick as badly as most off the shelf
connectors will, if done properely. These are for both aerial and
sub-surface applications. I have used it with Canon and Amphenol
multi-conductor cables as well.

As a guess, you have no direct experience using it? If so, tell about what
you actually did?
Greg.

"Rick" wrote in message
link.net...
Greg wrote:

One other trick is to coat the connector with RTV, then slide
the heat shrink over it and apply the heat. The shrinking heatshrink
pushes
out the excess RTV and makes a very water tight seal after it cures.
Good luck with it,

Any seal that relies on RTV will take more than luck. RTV will fail to
seal and water will wick into the connection and destroy it. It is as
predictable as sunrise.

There are many off the shelf connectors and sealing materials for that
application and nearly all of them are far superior to any of the
silicone adhesive sealants so often misused by the DIY'er.

Rick





-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Greg wrote:

As a guess, you have no direct experience using it? If so, tell about what
you actually did?

Guessed wrong. 8-)

Worked with building, maintaining, and operating manned deep
submersibles to 2000 meters, plus ROV operations and surface marine
industry for over 30 years with a break to go airline flying for a few
years between seagoing endeavors. Am still sailing in the merchant
marine and teach propulsion and sometimes electrical classes at a
maritime academy.

We made up many of our own cables for submersible work and repaired
those that we had commercially built. When I spliced a DC power cable
that supplied my life-support system a mile underwater I did not even
consider using a silicone sealant anywhere on the splice.

The only place we would use those sealants was to seal rubber gaskets in
on devices that were not subject to more than minor pressure differentials.


The RTV you are referring to may be the 2-part compound that is not
readily available to or commonly used by the DIY'er.

Common references to RTV are to the single component acetic acid and
moisture cured material found in home stores and recreational boat
shops. It will not bond to the wiring jacket and water will wick into
the splice. It will corrode the conductors. It may take a year or so
depending on how severe the exposure and how well the rest of the splice
was made but it will wick and the joint will corrode and fail.

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Greg wrote:

As a guess, you have no direct experience using it? If so, tell about what
you actually did?

Guessed wrong. 8-)

Worked with building, maintaining, and operating manned deep
submersibles to 2000 meters, plus ROV operations and surface marine
industry for over 30 years with a break to go airline flying for a few
years between seagoing endeavors. Am still sailing in the merchant
marine and teach propulsion and sometimes electrical classes at a
maritime academy.

We made up many of our own cables for submersible work and repaired
those that we had commercially built. When I spliced a DC power cable
that supplied my life-support system a mile underwater I did not even
consider using a silicone sealant anywhere on the splice.

The only place we would use those sealants was to seal rubber gaskets in
on devices that were not subject to more than minor pressure differentials.


The RTV you are referring to may be the 2-part compound that is not
readily available to or commonly used by the DIY'er.

Common references to RTV are to the single component acetic acid and
moisture cured material found in home stores and recreational boat
shops. It will not bond to the wiring jacket and water will wick into
the splice. It will corrode the conductors. It may take a year or so
depending on how severe the exposure and how well the rest of the splice
was made but it will wick and the joint will corrode and fail.

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

solomio wrote:

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors for the new spreader
light wiring that I'm having to do. Any suggestions for inexpensive
and somewhat waterproof 2-conductor connectors for about 14 ga wire?

I've used trailer wire connectors previously and they're certailny
cheap and available -

I have to rewire our mast (30 ft Al. Westerly Tiger) and also
completely redo the connection of the mast wiring into the boat.
About five wires and a VHF coax. All 'running' and the anchor
lights will now be on the mast.
A repair to our boat on behalf of the previous owner, following a
dismasting, by a presumably competent person, mounted two three
pin connector sockets flat on the fibreglass deck adjacent to the
bottom of the mast with wires through. Wires coming from the mast
plugged into those sockets.
Water got into the sockets and then seeped down into the wooden
deck pad inside the fibreglass deck under the mast step. Water
froze and mast step heaved and cracked deck. A mess!
I intend to avoid any connectors at all by running wires (once
per season) through well caulked hole/s in the deck in an area
where there is no wood. These wires would be terminated on a
terminal strip in the toilet/head compartment below.
Alternatively to bring wires up through the deck (through a well
caulked hole as above) and mount or strap
plugs/socket/connectors to the side of the mast above deck level.
Also to have spare connectors etc. to replace if corrosion
occurs. No 'connectors' as such up on the mast itself, wires
directly to each lamp socket.
Any suggestions welcomed. But if sockets what type? Terry.

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

solomio wrote:

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors for the new spreader
light wiring that I'm having to do. Any suggestions for inexpensive
and somewhat waterproof 2-conductor connectors for about 14 ga wire?

I've used trailer wire connectors previously and they're certailny
cheap and available -

I have to rewire our mast (30 ft Al. Westerly Tiger) and also
completely redo the connection of the mast wiring into the boat.
About five wires and a VHF coax. All 'running' and the anchor
lights will now be on the mast.
A repair to our boat on behalf of the previous owner, following a
dismasting, by a presumably competent person, mounted two three
pin connector sockets flat on the fibreglass deck adjacent to the
bottom of the mast with wires through. Wires coming from the mast
plugged into those sockets.
Water got into the sockets and then seeped down into the wooden
deck pad inside the fibreglass deck under the mast step. Water
froze and mast step heaved and cracked deck. A mess!
I intend to avoid any connectors at all by running wires (once
per season) through well caulked hole/s in the deck in an area
where there is no wood. These wires would be terminated on a
terminal strip in the toilet/head compartment below.
Alternatively to bring wires up through the deck (through a well
caulked hole as above) and mount or strap
plugs/socket/connectors to the side of the mast above deck level.
Also to have spare connectors etc. to replace if corrosion
occurs. No 'connectors' as such up on the mast itself, wires
directly to each lamp socket.
Any suggestions welcomed. But if sockets what type? Terry.

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

solomio wrote in message . ..
Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors for the new spreader
light wiring that I'm having to do. Any suggestions for inexpensive
and somewhat waterproof 2-conductor connectors for about 14 ga wire?

I've used trailer wire connectors previously and they're certailny
cheap and available -

Look at "yachtbits.co.uk", they have some aterproof connectors that
are "Lloys' approved". I've used them for my NASA masthead windmeter
and they've given me very good results.
john

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

solomio wrote in message . ..
Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors for the new spreader
light wiring that I'm having to do. Any suggestions for inexpensive
and somewhat waterproof 2-conductor connectors for about 14 ga wire?

I've used trailer wire connectors previously and they're certailny
cheap and available -

Look at "yachtbits.co.uk", they have some aterproof connectors that
are "Lloys' approved". I've used them for my NASA masthead windmeter
and they've given me very good results.
john

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Steve wrote:

The real good connectors have a adhesive inside that seals the job.

Or pipe them full of RTV, then shrink them, open end first.

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Steve wrote:

The real good connectors have a adhesive inside that seals the job.

Or pipe them full of RTV, then shrink them, open end first.

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

I've used dielectric silicone grease in connectors to waterproof them. Never
used curing type silicone caulks... the acetic acid will corrode the
connectors I hear. Is there a special RTV for electrical use that cures?

"Greg" wrote in message
...
Rick,
The phone companies and the Navy have used RTV for years to make sealed
connections on cables and it will not wick as badly as most off the shelf
connectors will, if done properely. These are for both aerial and
sub-surface applications. I have used it with Canon and Amphenol
multi-conductor cables as well.

As a guess, you have no direct experience using it? If so, tell about
what
you actually did?
Greg.

"Rick" wrote in message
link.net...
Greg wrote:

One other trick is to coat the connector with RTV, then slide
the heat shrink over it and apply the heat. The shrinking heatshrink
pushes
out the excess RTV and makes a very water tight seal after it cures.
Good luck with it,

Any seal that relies on RTV will take more than luck. RTV will fail to
seal and water will wick into the connection and destroy it. It is as
predictable as sunrise.

There are many off the shelf connectors and sealing materials for that
application and nearly all of them are far superior to any of the
silicone adhesive sealants so often misused by the DIY'er.

Rick





-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

I've used dielectric silicone grease in connectors to waterproof them. Never
used curing type silicone caulks... the acetic acid will corrode the
connectors I hear. Is there a special RTV for electrical use that cures?

"Greg" wrote in message
...
Rick,
The phone companies and the Navy have used RTV for years to make sealed
connections on cables and it will not wick as badly as most off the shelf
connectors will, if done properely. These are for both aerial and
sub-surface applications. I have used it with Canon and Amphenol
multi-conductor cables as well.

As a guess, you have no direct experience using it? If so, tell about
what
you actually did?
Greg.

"Rick" wrote in message
link.net...
Greg wrote:

One other trick is to coat the connector with RTV, then slide
the heat shrink over it and apply the heat. The shrinking heatshrink
pushes
out the excess RTV and makes a very water tight seal after it cures.
Good luck with it,

Any seal that relies on RTV will take more than luck. RTV will fail to
seal and water will wick into the connection and destroy it. It is as
predictable as sunrise.

There are many off the shelf connectors and sealing materials for that
application and nearly all of them are far superior to any of the
silicone adhesive sealants so often misused by the DIY'er.

Rick





-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Sooo..... What DID you use as a sealant, now that you've submitted your
credentials, and convinced us all that you know what you're talking about?


"Rick" wrote in message
link.net...
Greg wrote:

As a guess, you have no direct experience using it? If so, tell about
what
you actually did?

Guessed wrong. 8-)

Worked with building, maintaining, and operating manned deep
submersibles to 2000 meters, plus ROV operations and surface marine
industry for over 30 years with a break to go airline flying for a few
years between seagoing endeavors. Am still sailing in the merchant
marine and teach propulsion and sometimes electrical classes at a
maritime academy.

We made up many of our own cables for submersible work and repaired
those that we had commercially built. When I spliced a DC power cable
that supplied my life-support system a mile underwater I did not even
consider using a silicone sealant anywhere on the splice.

The only place we would use those sealants was to seal rubber gaskets in
on devices that were not subject to more than minor pressure
differentials.


The RTV you are referring to may be the 2-part compound that is not
readily available to or commonly used by the DIY'er.

Common references to RTV are to the single component acetic acid and
moisture cured material found in home stores and recreational boat
shops. It will not bond to the wiring jacket and water will wick into
the splice. It will corrode the conductors. It may take a year or so
depending on how severe the exposure and how well the rest of the splice
was made but it will wick and the joint will corrode and fail.

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Sooo..... What DID you use as a sealant, now that you've submitted your
credentials, and convinced us all that you know what you're talking about?


"Rick" wrote in message
link.net...
Greg wrote:

As a guess, you have no direct experience using it? If so, tell about
what
you actually did?

Guessed wrong. 8-)

Worked with building, maintaining, and operating manned deep
submersibles to 2000 meters, plus ROV operations and surface marine
industry for over 30 years with a break to go airline flying for a few
years between seagoing endeavors. Am still sailing in the merchant
marine and teach propulsion and sometimes electrical classes at a
maritime academy.

We made up many of our own cables for submersible work and repaired
those that we had commercially built. When I spliced a DC power cable
that supplied my life-support system a mile underwater I did not even
consider using a silicone sealant anywhere on the splice.

The only place we would use those sealants was to seal rubber gaskets in
on devices that were not subject to more than minor pressure
differentials.


The RTV you are referring to may be the 2-part compound that is not
readily available to or commonly used by the DIY'er.

Common references to RTV are to the single component acetic acid and
moisture cured material found in home stores and recreational boat
shops. It will not bond to the wiring jacket and water will wick into
the splice. It will corrode the conductors. It may take a year or so
depending on how severe the exposure and how well the rest of the splice
was made but it will wick and the joint will corrode and fail.

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Rick,
Impressive. Glad you are speaking from personal experience. I respect that
and what you say, but do not agree with you about this.

I shrink mine from the middle out to squeeze out excess RTV. I have not
made connectors like this for deep sea operations. The requested
application was for up on a mast for lighting. The RTV will work fine and
outlast the light fixtures. Acetic acid corrosion has not been an issue on
any of the ones I have made up and/or repaired. Wicking can happen if under
pressure, but I usually only need NEMA4 type connections. I have more
problems from oil or chemical contaminates. Most of my connections are made
up by crimping, soldering and heat shrinking. The RTV was used (and will be
again) for added insurance. I am speaking of the silicon 1 part type that
can be purchased by DIYs. Normally I use the Dow Corning red...cannot
remember the number right now, but I buy by the 12 pack for use on gaskets
for test fixtures. I currently design and build test fixtures for
Whirlpool's product development labs, and am a Controls Engineer by
profession. For years I designed and built control systems for automated
production, assembly, or testing for the US Navy, Chrysler, Ford, Bosch,
etc. and am semi-retired now.

Incidentally, your work experience sounds like fun to me. How do you still
sail in the Merchant Marine and also find time to teach?

Greg Luckett


"Rick" wrote in message
link.net...
Greg wrote:

As a guess, you have no direct experience using it? If so, tell about
what
you actually did?

Guessed wrong. 8-)

Worked with building, maintaining, and operating manned deep
submersibles to 2000 meters, plus ROV operations and surface marine
industry for over 30 years with a break to go airline flying for a few
years between seagoing endeavors. Am still sailing in the merchant
marine and teach propulsion and sometimes electrical classes at a
maritime academy.

We made up many of our own cables for submersible work and repaired
those that we had commercially built. When I spliced a DC power cable
that supplied my life-support system a mile underwater I did not even
consider using a silicone sealant anywhere on the splice.

The only place we would use those sealants was to seal rubber gaskets in
on devices that were not subject to more than minor pressure
differentials.


The RTV you are referring to may be the 2-part compound that is not
readily available to or commonly used by the DIY'er.

Common references to RTV are to the single component acetic acid and
moisture cured material found in home stores and recreational boat
shops. It will not bond to the wiring jacket and water will wick into
the splice. It will corrode the conductors. It may take a year or so
depending on how severe the exposure and how well the rest of the splice
was made but it will wick and the joint will corrode and fail.

Rick






-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Rick,
Impressive. Glad you are speaking from personal experience. I respect that
and what you say, but do not agree with you about this.

I shrink mine from the middle out to squeeze out excess RTV. I have not
made connectors like this for deep sea operations. The requested
application was for up on a mast for lighting. The RTV will work fine and
outlast the light fixtures. Acetic acid corrosion has not been an issue on
any of the ones I have made up and/or repaired. Wicking can happen if under
pressure, but I usually only need NEMA4 type connections. I have more
problems from oil or chemical contaminates. Most of my connections are made
up by crimping, soldering and heat shrinking. The RTV was used (and will be
again) for added insurance. I am speaking of the silicon 1 part type that
can be purchased by DIYs. Normally I use the Dow Corning red...cannot
remember the number right now, but I buy by the 12 pack for use on gaskets
for test fixtures. I currently design and build test fixtures for
Whirlpool's product development labs, and am a Controls Engineer by
profession. For years I designed and built control systems for automated
production, assembly, or testing for the US Navy, Chrysler, Ford, Bosch,
etc. and am semi-retired now.

Incidentally, your work experience sounds like fun to me. How do you still
sail in the Merchant Marine and also find time to teach?

Greg Luckett


"Rick" wrote in message
link.net...
Greg wrote:

As a guess, you have no direct experience using it? If so, tell about
what
you actually did?

Guessed wrong. 8-)

Worked with building, maintaining, and operating manned deep
submersibles to 2000 meters, plus ROV operations and surface marine
industry for over 30 years with a break to go airline flying for a few
years between seagoing endeavors. Am still sailing in the merchant
marine and teach propulsion and sometimes electrical classes at a
maritime academy.

We made up many of our own cables for submersible work and repaired
those that we had commercially built. When I spliced a DC power cable
that supplied my life-support system a mile underwater I did not even
consider using a silicone sealant anywhere on the splice.

The only place we would use those sealants was to seal rubber gaskets in
on devices that were not subject to more than minor pressure
differentials.


The RTV you are referring to may be the 2-part compound that is not
readily available to or commonly used by the DIY'er.

Common references to RTV are to the single component acetic acid and
moisture cured material found in home stores and recreational boat
shops. It will not bond to the wiring jacket and water will wick into
the splice. It will corrode the conductors. It may take a year or so
depending on how severe the exposure and how well the rest of the splice
was made but it will wick and the joint will corrode and fail.

Rick






-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

"Greg" wrote in message
...
Acetic acid corrosion has not been an issue on
any of the ones I have made up and/or repaired.


I have experienced Acetic acid corrosion in the past (didn't know what to
call it). I used liberal amount silicone on a VHF connector at the mast
head. 3 years later, when I pulled the mast, peeled off the silicone, the
metal connector were almost completely consumed by corrosion.

I suspect that the application was so heavy that the silicone compound
didn't have an opportuntiy to fully cure and the acid in contact with the
metal had a reaction with the metals of the connector..

It's been a few years but I seem to remember a strong acidic smell and the
surface of the remaining metal/mush was damp with this acid.

I stopped using silicone anywhere I would need a heavy buildup that might
trap or hold in the acid.

For electrical connection I stand by my earlier recommendations to purchase
the connectors that have a heavy adhesive shrink sleeving.. They are
expensive but for mast wiring the OP is only going to need a half dozen.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

"Greg" wrote in message
...
Acetic acid corrosion has not been an issue on
any of the ones I have made up and/or repaired.


I have experienced Acetic acid corrosion in the past (didn't know what to
call it). I used liberal amount silicone on a VHF connector at the mast
head. 3 years later, when I pulled the mast, peeled off the silicone, the
metal connector were almost completely consumed by corrosion.

I suspect that the application was so heavy that the silicone compound
didn't have an opportuntiy to fully cure and the acid in contact with the
metal had a reaction with the metals of the connector..

It's been a few years but I seem to remember a strong acidic smell and the
surface of the remaining metal/mush was damp with this acid.

I stopped using silicone anywhere I would need a heavy buildup that might
trap or hold in the acid.

For electrical connection I stand by my earlier recommendations to purchase
the connectors that have a heavy adhesive shrink sleeving.. They are
expensive but for mast wiring the OP is only going to need a half dozen.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Electrical grade RTV Silicone uses a different catalyst than the stuff
that smells like acid. Some of the chalking silicones do too and they
don't smell like acid either. I started working with RTV's 35 years ago
in the lab at GE. I don't recall any of the electrical grade stuff ever
smelling of acid. I first noticed this years later when the chalking
products hit the market. I suspect it is a cheaper product, good enough
to chalk your house but not to be used on electrical stuff. Unless, of
coarse you use acid core solder.

Ron

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Electrical grade RTV Silicone uses a different catalyst than the stuff
that smells like acid. Some of the chalking silicones do too and they
don't smell like acid either. I started working with RTV's 35 years ago
in the lab at GE. I don't recall any of the electrical grade stuff ever
smelling of acid. I first noticed this years later when the chalking
products hit the market. I suspect it is a cheaper product, good enough
to chalk your house but not to be used on electrical stuff. Unless, of
coarse you use acid core solder.

Ron

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

For electrical connection I stand by my earlier recommendations
to purchase
the connectors that have a heavy adhesive shrink sleeving..
They are
expensive but for mast wiring the OP is only going to need a
half dozen.

Has anyone tried Liquid Tape? We have used it in Sat TV work and
it has
worked well in painting the connections and connectors.

Leanne

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

For electrical connection I stand by my earlier recommendations
to purchase
the connectors that have a heavy adhesive shrink sleeving..
They are
expensive but for mast wiring the OP is only going to need a
half dozen.

Has anyone tried Liquid Tape? We have used it in Sat TV work and
it has
worked well in painting the connections and connectors.

Leanne

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Greg wrote:

Incidentally, your work experience sounds like fun to me. How do you still
sail in the Merchant Marine and also find time to teach?

It has been a lot of fun. I now sail for just 4 to 6 months of the year
and only teach the winter quarter.

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Greg wrote:

Incidentally, your work experience sounds like fun to me. How do you still
sail in the Merchant Marine and also find time to teach?

It has been a lot of fun. I now sail for just 4 to 6 months of the year
and only teach the winter quarter.

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

padeen wrote:

Sooo..... What DID you use as a sealant ...?

Well, it was a multistep process that started with soldered butt
splices, covered with heatshrink. The stepped splices were then wrapped
with a well stretched layer of self-vulcanizing tape and the whole was
filled with a 3M product called ScotchFil, a soft, thick, rubbery tape
that filled all the voids between the conductors. Next, the smoothed
Scotchfil was wrapped with another couple of wraps of self vulcanizing
tape until the splice was smooth and solid. Final wraps of a vinyl tape
like Scotch 33 overlapped the entire length and then that was secured
with cable wrapping thread and finally the entire splice was coated with
Scotchkote, a rubber glue type of sealant.

These splices were almost guaranteed to work to 10,000 feet. Note the
almost ...

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

padeen wrote:

Sooo..... What DID you use as a sealant ...?

Well, it was a multistep process that started with soldered butt
splices, covered with heatshrink. The stepped splices were then wrapped
with a well stretched layer of self-vulcanizing tape and the whole was
filled with a 3M product called ScotchFil, a soft, thick, rubbery tape
that filled all the voids between the conductors. Next, the smoothed
Scotchfil was wrapped with another couple of wraps of self vulcanizing
tape until the splice was smooth and solid. Final wraps of a vinyl tape
like Scotch 33 overlapped the entire length and then that was secured
with cable wrapping thread and finally the entire splice was coated with
Scotchkote, a rubber glue type of sealant.

These splices were almost guaranteed to work to 10,000 feet. Note the
almost ...

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Greg wrote:

I shrink mine from the middle out to squeeze out excess RTV.

That is incredibly messy isn't it? The adhesive filled heat shrink that
Steve mentioned is a far better alternative. The adhesive will bond to
most wire jackets while RTV just won't stick well enough to depend on.
The heat shrink is self contained, no messy tubes, no rags, no drips or
blobs of excess goo ...

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Greg wrote:

I shrink mine from the middle out to squeeze out excess RTV.

That is incredibly messy isn't it? The adhesive filled heat shrink that
Steve mentioned is a far better alternative. The adhesive will bond to
most wire jackets while RTV just won't stick well enough to depend on.
The heat shrink is self contained, no messy tubes, no rags, no drips or
blobs of excess goo ...

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Leanne wrote:

Has anyone tried Liquid Tape?

It is good stuff. We use it onboard ship as a substitute for Scotchkote.
Another substitute, especially for neoprene jacketed wire is wet suit
glue ... I believe all three are essentially the same product though
Scotchkote is a much higher quality and is thickened with some type of
plasticizer.

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Leanne wrote:

Has anyone tried Liquid Tape?

It is good stuff. We use it onboard ship as a substitute for Scotchkote.
Another substitute, especially for neoprene jacketed wire is wet suit
glue ... I believe all three are essentially the same product though
Scotchkote is a much higher quality and is thickened with some type of
plasticizer.

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Rick, you don't mention the deep submersibles method of routing nearly all
electrical cables inside of tygon tubing and fittings and filled with
mineral oil. The fluid is always at the same pressure as the water outside..
If everything goes as planned, the cabling is never exposed to seawater,
even at 10,000 ft.

I have built and repaired hundreds of cable assemblies for the DSVs and the
DSRVs while working for Locheed Advanced Marine Systems.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Rick, you don't mention the deep submersibles method of routing nearly all
electrical cables inside of tygon tubing and fittings and filled with
mineral oil. The fluid is always at the same pressure as the water outside..
If everything goes as planned, the cabling is never exposed to seawater,
even at 10,000 ft.

I have built and repaired hundreds of cable assemblies for the DSVs and the
DSRVs while working for Locheed Advanced Marine Systems.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

If you don't want to pay the price for the connectors with the self adhisive
sleeves, then use good quality marine connectors and purchase, sperately,
the heavy duty adhesive shrink sleeving..

I'm really sold on the heaver self adhesive shrink sleeving.. I get mine
from Waytek Inc, http://www.waytekwire.com/ Good prices but they have a
minimum order of $25..

Steve
s/v Good Intentions