Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

If you don't want to pay the price for the connectors with the self adhisive
sleeves, then use good quality marine connectors and purchase, sperately,
the heavy duty adhesive shrink sleeving..

I'm really sold on the heaver self adhesive shrink sleeving.. I get mine
from Waytek Inc, http://www.waytekwire.com/ Good prices but they have a
minimum order of $25..

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Steve wrote:

Rick, you don't mention the deep submersibles method of routing nearly all
electrical cables inside of tygon tubing and fittings and filled with
mineral oil.

We only used oil-filled cables for temporary of field installed systems
that didn't rate a shop made cable. We would save the plug ends and a
foot or two of wire from old cables for that purpose. We used oil-filled
j-boxes externally and ran conductors through the same type of clear
plastic tubing you see in boat stores and filled the entire run with oil.

We had a shop back in the world where we could build and vacuum pot our
own cables for newbuilds. Some of our standard cables were manufactured
by a specialty cable shop. A lot of smaller stuff just used off the
shelf underwater connectors made for the commercial (oil field)and
military market.

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Steve wrote:

Rick, you don't mention the deep submersibles method of routing nearly all
electrical cables inside of tygon tubing and fittings and filled with
mineral oil.

We only used oil-filled cables for temporary of field installed systems
that didn't rate a shop made cable. We would save the plug ends and a
foot or two of wire from old cables for that purpose. We used oil-filled
j-boxes externally and ran conductors through the same type of clear
plastic tubing you see in boat stores and filled the entire run with oil.

We had a shop back in the world where we could build and vacuum pot our
own cables for newbuilds. Some of our standard cables were manufactured
by a specialty cable shop. A lot of smaller stuff just used off the
shelf underwater connectors made for the commercial (oil field)and
military market.

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Terry wrote:

solomio wrote:


Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors for the new spreader
light wiring that I'm having to do. Any suggestions for inexpensive
and somewhat waterproof 2-conductor connectors for about 14 ga wire?

I've used trailer wire connectors previously and they're certailny
cheap and available -



I have to rewire our mast (30 ft Al. Westerly Tiger) and also
completely redo the connection of the mast wiring into the boat.
About five wires and a VHF coax. All 'running' and the anchor
lights will now be on the mast.
A repair to our boat on behalf of the previous owner, following a
dismasting, by a presumably competent person, mounted two three
pin connector sockets flat on the fibreglass deck adjacent to the
bottom of the mast with wires through. Wires coming from the mast
plugged into those sockets.
Water got into the sockets and then seeped down into the wooden
deck pad inside the fibreglass deck under the mast step. Water
froze and mast step heaved and cracked deck. A mess!

An alternate that some Tanzers have used and seem to like: a "J" tube
coming through the deck near the mast (and protected by it). Wires can
be long enough to go to terminal strips. Some boats have no break in
the coax between the antenna and VHF -- the plug fits through the tube.
The tube can be heavily caulked, the wires have 3 less places corrosion
can form; Lots of benefits and few drawbacks or drips.

(I went a different route, but am thinking of installing a tube for this
spring.)

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Terry wrote:

solomio wrote:


Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors for the new spreader
light wiring that I'm having to do. Any suggestions for inexpensive
and somewhat waterproof 2-conductor connectors for about 14 ga wire?

I've used trailer wire connectors previously and they're certailny
cheap and available -



I have to rewire our mast (30 ft Al. Westerly Tiger) and also
completely redo the connection of the mast wiring into the boat.
About five wires and a VHF coax. All 'running' and the anchor
lights will now be on the mast.
A repair to our boat on behalf of the previous owner, following a
dismasting, by a presumably competent person, mounted two three
pin connector sockets flat on the fibreglass deck adjacent to the
bottom of the mast with wires through. Wires coming from the mast
plugged into those sockets.
Water got into the sockets and then seeped down into the wooden
deck pad inside the fibreglass deck under the mast step. Water
froze and mast step heaved and cracked deck. A mess!

An alternate that some Tanzers have used and seem to like: a "J" tube
coming through the deck near the mast (and protected by it). Wires can
be long enough to go to terminal strips. Some boats have no break in
the coax between the antenna and VHF -- the plug fits through the tube.
The tube can be heavily caulked, the wires have 3 less places corrosion
can form; Lots of benefits and few drawbacks or drips.

(I went a different route, but am thinking of installing a tube for this
spring.)

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Rick,
Yes it can me messy, but I just wipe it with paper towels...the shop type.
Not that much is actually put on, just enough to replace air gaps when the
heat shrink, shrinks. This reduces the cure time as does the heat gun
shrinking the tubing. The stuff I got from the line men 30 years ago had a
strong acetic acid smell then, as it does now. I would not use it on a
connection needed for deep water, high pressure, or for anything needed to
last longer than a couple of years...tops. I use it on temporary
connections that I want to seal but still be able to cut open and disconnect
later. Remember I am not talking gobs and gobs of RTV, only a dab or two.
Forgive the non-tech measurements, but DIYrs will understand me...I think.

Incidentally, I just finished some life testing on a new series of coffee
pots, which I cleaned daily with 4% acetic acid (white vinegar). After the
equivalent of several years of accelerated testing, I opened the units and
checked. All my connectors and control panel enclosures which were sealed
with the RTV were fine, but the hose clamps were badly corroded from vinegar
steam leakage. I am not seeing any problems with the RTV corroding
electrical connectors or electronics boards on any of this testing or the
other testing which I have done.

I think I will set up some life testing in the lab and see if I can create a
corrosion problem with the RTV. I will let you all know what I find out.
Greg Luckett

"Rick" wrote in message
link.net...
Greg wrote:

I shrink mine from the middle out to squeeze out excess RTV.

That is incredibly messy isn't it? The adhesive filled heat shrink that
Steve mentioned is a far better alternative. The adhesive will bond to
most wire jackets while RTV just won't stick well enough to depend on.
The heat shrink is self contained, no messy tubes, no rags, no drips or
blobs of excess goo ...

Rick





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Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Rick,
Yes it can me messy, but I just wipe it with paper towels...the shop type.
Not that much is actually put on, just enough to replace air gaps when the
heat shrink, shrinks. This reduces the cure time as does the heat gun
shrinking the tubing. The stuff I got from the line men 30 years ago had a
strong acetic acid smell then, as it does now. I would not use it on a
connection needed for deep water, high pressure, or for anything needed to
last longer than a couple of years...tops. I use it on temporary
connections that I want to seal but still be able to cut open and disconnect
later. Remember I am not talking gobs and gobs of RTV, only a dab or two.
Forgive the non-tech measurements, but DIYrs will understand me...I think.

Incidentally, I just finished some life testing on a new series of coffee
pots, which I cleaned daily with 4% acetic acid (white vinegar). After the
equivalent of several years of accelerated testing, I opened the units and
checked. All my connectors and control panel enclosures which were sealed
with the RTV were fine, but the hose clamps were badly corroded from vinegar
steam leakage. I am not seeing any problems with the RTV corroding
electrical connectors or electronics boards on any of this testing or the
other testing which I have done.

I think I will set up some life testing in the lab and see if I can create a
corrosion problem with the RTV. I will let you all know what I find out.
Greg Luckett

"Rick" wrote in message
link.net...
Greg wrote:

I shrink mine from the middle out to squeeze out excess RTV.

That is incredibly messy isn't it? The adhesive filled heat shrink that
Steve mentioned is a far better alternative. The adhesive will bond to
most wire jackets while RTV just won't stick well enough to depend on.
The heat shrink is self contained, no messy tubes, no rags, no drips or
blobs of excess goo ...

Rick





-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Greg wrote:

I think I will set up some life testing in the lab and see if I can create a
corrosion problem with the RTV. I will let you all know what I find out.

I bet you will have no problems with it. For years it has been a
standard to avoid the use of the stuff on or near electronic components
and boards but I have never seen any problems associated with it in the
absence of liquid water or very high humidity.

I will admit there are places where the stuff is very handy and useful
but years of seeing it fail in a marine environment has made me very
cautious about where and how I use it. Personally, I do not have a
single tube of the stuff on my boat and it is a fairly large and
complex old girl with a lot of external wiring with all the stuffing
boxes and penetrators that entails.

There are just too many better products available.

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Greg wrote:

I think I will set up some life testing in the lab and see if I can create a
corrosion problem with the RTV. I will let you all know what I find out.

I bet you will have no problems with it. For years it has been a
standard to avoid the use of the stuff on or near electronic components
and boards but I have never seen any problems associated with it in the
absence of liquid water or very high humidity.

I will admit there are places where the stuff is very handy and useful
but years of seeing it fail in a marine environment has made me very
cautious about where and how I use it. Personally, I do not have a
single tube of the stuff on my boat and it is a fairly large and
complex old girl with a lot of external wiring with all the stuffing
boxes and penetrators that entails.

There are just too many better products available.

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

On Mon, 1 Dec 2003 18:23:49 -0500, "Leanne" wrote:

For electrical connection I stand by my earlier recommendations
to purchase
the connectors that have a heavy adhesive shrink sleeving..
They are
expensive but for mast wiring the OP is only going to need a
half dozen.

Has anyone tried Liquid Tape? We have used it in Sat TV work and
it has
worked well in painting the connections and connectors.

I've used it for all sorts of jobs around the boat. Works great.

Steve

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

On Mon, 1 Dec 2003 18:23:49 -0500, "Leanne" wrote:

For electrical connection I stand by my earlier recommendations
to purchase
the connectors that have a heavy adhesive shrink sleeving..
They are
expensive but for mast wiring the OP is only going to need a
half dozen.

Has anyone tried Liquid Tape? We have used it in Sat TV work and
it has
worked well in painting the connections and connectors.

I've used it for all sorts of jobs around the boat. Works great.

Steve

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Thanks, Rick. I'm an electrical contractor at the moment and your product
list is very familiar to me wrt underground splices. Soils have similar
pernicious chemical liabilities to electrical lines that seawater does, it
seems. I wondered if Scotchkote was a common marine solution.

Padeen


"Rick" wrote in message
hlink.net...
padeen wrote:

Sooo..... What DID you use as a sealant ...?

Well, it was a multistep process that started with soldered butt
splices, covered with heatshrink. The stepped splices were then wrapped
with a well stretched layer of self-vulcanizing tape and the whole was
filled with a 3M product called ScotchFil, a soft, thick, rubbery tape
that filled all the voids between the conductors. Next, the smoothed
Scotchfil was wrapped with another couple of wraps of self vulcanizing
tape until the splice was smooth and solid. Final wraps of a vinyl tape
like Scotch 33 overlapped the entire length and then that was secured
with cable wrapping thread and finally the entire splice was coated with
Scotchkote, a rubber glue type of sealant.

These splices were almost guaranteed to work to 10,000 feet. Note the
almost ...

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Thanks, Rick. I'm an electrical contractor at the moment and your product
list is very familiar to me wrt underground splices. Soils have similar
pernicious chemical liabilities to electrical lines that seawater does, it
seems. I wondered if Scotchkote was a common marine solution.

Padeen


"Rick" wrote in message
hlink.net...
padeen wrote:

Sooo..... What DID you use as a sealant ...?

Well, it was a multistep process that started with soldered butt
splices, covered with heatshrink. The stepped splices were then wrapped
with a well stretched layer of self-vulcanizing tape and the whole was
filled with a 3M product called ScotchFil, a soft, thick, rubbery tape
that filled all the voids between the conductors. Next, the smoothed
Scotchfil was wrapped with another couple of wraps of self vulcanizing
tape until the splice was smooth and solid. Final wraps of a vinyl tape
like Scotch 33 overlapped the entire length and then that was secured
with cable wrapping thread and finally the entire splice was coated with
Scotchkote, a rubber glue type of sealant.

These splices were almost guaranteed to work to 10,000 feet. Note the
almost ...

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

padeen wrote:

Thanks, Rick. I'm an electrical contractor at the moment and your product
list is very familiar to me wrt underground splices. Soils have similar
pernicious chemical liabilities to electrical lines that seawater does, it
seems. I wondered if Scotchkote was a common marine solution.

It should. We borrowed the techniques and materials from you guys to
begin with. 8-)

I love Scothchkote, it is one of those "electrician in a can" products
that really is worth its weight.

We tried all the prepackaged urethane and epoxy splice kits but never
had a lot of success with them since unless they were prepared in a
vacuum chamber like we did with the shop terminated cables, they were
susceptible to bubbles that would collapse under pressure and create
problems or even fracture the epoxy potted splices.

It was actually faster and usually more successful to hand splice
onboard ship.

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

padeen wrote:

Thanks, Rick. I'm an electrical contractor at the moment and your product
list is very familiar to me wrt underground splices. Soils have similar
pernicious chemical liabilities to electrical lines that seawater does, it
seems. I wondered if Scotchkote was a common marine solution.

It should. We borrowed the techniques and materials from you guys to
begin with. 8-)

I love Scothchkote, it is one of those "electrician in a can" products
that really is worth its weight.

We tried all the prepackaged urethane and epoxy splice kits but never
had a lot of success with them since unless they were prepared in a
vacuum chamber like we did with the shop terminated cables, they were
susceptible to bubbles that would collapse under pressure and create
problems or even fracture the epoxy potted splices.

It was actually faster and usually more successful to hand splice
onboard ship.

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Ron Thornton wrote:
I suspect it is a cheaper product, good enough
to chalk your house but not to be used on electrical stuff.

Caution about house caulking silicon, I use some on an electrical
device only to find out that the silicon caulking compount is
electrically conductive. Fortunately I was able to peel away the
silicon. I had installed resistors and LEDs to indicate open fuses on
an old VW fusebox, and wondered why connecting 12v to one LED, caused
multiple LEDs to illuminate.

Mike.

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Ron Thornton wrote:
I suspect it is a cheaper product, good enough
to chalk your house but not to be used on electrical stuff.

Caution about house caulking silicon, I use some on an electrical
device only to find out that the silicon caulking compount is
electrically conductive. Fortunately I was able to peel away the
silicon. I had installed resistors and LEDs to indicate open fuses on
an old VW fusebox, and wondered why connecting 12v to one LED, caused
multiple LEDs to illuminate.

Mike.

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Steve wrote:

I recommend you purchase some good marine connectors. Their a little more
expensive but certainly much more reliable for something that is "up the
mast"..

Get the kind that have a shrink sleeve over the outside. You just crimp them
on using a good crimping tool. Then you heat shrink the sleeve down onto the
finished connection.

The real good connectors have a adhesive inside that seals the job.

The moto here is "don't go on the cheap" with anything up the mast.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

When I lower my mast, I unplug the automotive ball connectors at
the spreader and tabernacle so I can stow the rig compactly. I
haven't bothered with gobs of silicone grease in the rubber
boots, I sail in fresh mostly and simply disconnecting and
reconnecting them each year keeps them clean. The cabin overhead
connector is an empty shell, with only push connector wire ends
and a silicone rubber seal on the top of the mast tail shell
half. The connectors at the spreader are there so I could unplug
the spreader light assembly to lower or replace it easily if
riding the bosun. The spaced out connectors at the tabernacle
won't fit the bung all at once, and doing them staggered in
series keeps them organised. The wiring festoons the head
bulkhead join in plastic cable clamps with 2 screws each, one to
retain the mounting and one to release the wire bundle. The
connections to the mast can be seen belowdecks, and tested
easily. 5 years, no probs. The 'marine' plug connector fell
apart the first year.

Ewwww!

Terry K
--
Terry K - My email address is MY PROPERTY, and is protected by
copyright legislation. Permission to reproduce it is
specifically denied for mass mailing and unrequested
solicitations. Reproduction or conveyance for any unauthorised
purpose is THEFT and PLAGIARISM. Abuse is Invasion of privacy
and harassment. Abusers may be prosecuted. -This notice footer
released to public domain. Spamspoof salad by spamchock -
SofDevCo

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Steve wrote:

I recommend you purchase some good marine connectors. Their a little more
expensive but certainly much more reliable for something that is "up the
mast"..

Get the kind that have a shrink sleeve over the outside. You just crimp them
on using a good crimping tool. Then you heat shrink the sleeve down onto the
finished connection.

The real good connectors have a adhesive inside that seals the job.

The moto here is "don't go on the cheap" with anything up the mast.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

When I lower my mast, I unplug the automotive ball connectors at
the spreader and tabernacle so I can stow the rig compactly. I
haven't bothered with gobs of silicone grease in the rubber
boots, I sail in fresh mostly and simply disconnecting and
reconnecting them each year keeps them clean. The cabin overhead
connector is an empty shell, with only push connector wire ends
and a silicone rubber seal on the top of the mast tail shell
half. The connectors at the spreader are there so I could unplug
the spreader light assembly to lower or replace it easily if
riding the bosun. The spaced out connectors at the tabernacle
won't fit the bung all at once, and doing them staggered in
series keeps them organised. The wiring festoons the head
bulkhead join in plastic cable clamps with 2 screws each, one to
retain the mounting and one to release the wire bundle. The
connections to the mast can be seen belowdecks, and tested
easily. 5 years, no probs. The 'marine' plug connector fell
apart the first year.

Ewwww!

Terry K
--
Terry K - My email address is MY PROPERTY, and is protected by
copyright legislation. Permission to reproduce it is
specifically denied for mass mailing and unrequested
solicitations. Reproduction or conveyance for any unauthorised
purpose is THEFT and PLAGIARISM. Abuse is Invasion of privacy
and harassment. Abusers may be prosecuted. -This notice footer
released to public domain. Spamspoof salad by spamchock -
SofDevCo

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Rick :

Greg wrote:

As a guess, you have no direct experience using it? If so, tell about
what
you actually did?

Guessed wrong. 8-)

Worked with building, maintaining, and operating manned deep
submersibles to 2000 meters, plus ROV operations and surface marine
industry for over 30 years with a break to go airline flying for a few
years between seagoing endeavors. Am still sailing in the merchant
marine and teach propulsion and sometimes electrical classes at a
maritime academy.

We made up many of our own cables for submersible work and repaired
those that we had commercially built. When I spliced a DC power cable
that supplied my life-support system a mile underwater I did not even
consider using a silicone sealant anywhere on the splice.

The only place we would use those sealants was to seal rubber gaskets in
on devices that were not subject to more than minor pressure differentials.

First, I don't call the forces that get water into your wiring in a
submersible 'wicking' I call it pressure injection.

Second, a boater who has to worry about if his wiring will work 10,000 feet
down has other problems more important than some silly wires.

Earl Colby Pottinger

--
I make public email sent to me! Hydrogen Peroxide Rockets, OpenBeos,
SerialTransfer 3.0, RAMDISK, BoatBuilding, DIY TabletPC. What happened to
the time? http://webhome.idirect.com/~earlcp

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Rick :

Greg wrote:

As a guess, you have no direct experience using it? If so, tell about
what
you actually did?

Guessed wrong. 8-)

Worked with building, maintaining, and operating manned deep
submersibles to 2000 meters, plus ROV operations and surface marine
industry for over 30 years with a break to go airline flying for a few
years between seagoing endeavors. Am still sailing in the merchant
marine and teach propulsion and sometimes electrical classes at a
maritime academy.

We made up many of our own cables for submersible work and repaired
those that we had commercially built. When I spliced a DC power cable
that supplied my life-support system a mile underwater I did not even
consider using a silicone sealant anywhere on the splice.

The only place we would use those sealants was to seal rubber gaskets in
on devices that were not subject to more than minor pressure differentials.

First, I don't call the forces that get water into your wiring in a
submersible 'wicking' I call it pressure injection.

Second, a boater who has to worry about if his wiring will work 10,000 feet
down has other problems more important than some silly wires.

Earl Colby Pottinger

--
I make public email sent to me! Hydrogen Peroxide Rockets, OpenBeos,
SerialTransfer 3.0, RAMDISK, BoatBuilding, DIY TabletPC. What happened to
the time? http://webhome.idirect.com/~earlcp

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

And I thought this thread was over months ago.....LOL.
Greg.

"Earl Colby Pottinger" wrote in message
...
Rick :

Greg wrote:

As a guess, you have no direct experience using it? If so, tell about
what
you actually did?

Guessed wrong. 8-)

Worked with building, maintaining, and operating manned deep
submersibles to 2000 meters, plus ROV operations and surface marine
industry for over 30 years with a break to go airline flying for a few
years between seagoing endeavors. Am still sailing in the merchant
marine and teach propulsion and sometimes electrical classes at a
maritime academy.

We made up many of our own cables for submersible work and repaired
those that we had commercially built. When I spliced a DC power cable
that supplied my life-support system a mile underwater I did not even
consider using a silicone sealant anywhere on the splice.

The only place we would use those sealants was to seal rubber gaskets in
on devices that were not subject to more than minor pressure
differentials.

First, I don't call the forces that get water into your wiring in a
submersible 'wicking' I call it pressure injection.

Second, a boater who has to worry about if his wiring will work 10,000
feet
down has other problems more important than some silly wires.

Earl Colby Pottinger

--
I make public email sent to me! Hydrogen Peroxide Rockets, OpenBeos,
SerialTransfer 3.0, RAMDISK, BoatBuilding, DIY TabletPC. What happened to
the time? http://webhome.idirect.com/~earlcp




-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
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-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

And I thought this thread was over months ago.....LOL.
Greg.

"Earl Colby Pottinger" wrote in message
...
Rick :

Greg wrote:

As a guess, you have no direct experience using it? If so, tell about
what
you actually did?

Guessed wrong. 8-)

Worked with building, maintaining, and operating manned deep
submersibles to 2000 meters, plus ROV operations and surface marine
industry for over 30 years with a break to go airline flying for a few
years between seagoing endeavors. Am still sailing in the merchant
marine and teach propulsion and sometimes electrical classes at a
maritime academy.

We made up many of our own cables for submersible work and repaired
those that we had commercially built. When I spliced a DC power cable
that supplied my life-support system a mile underwater I did not even
consider using a silicone sealant anywhere on the splice.

The only place we would use those sealants was to seal rubber gaskets in
on devices that were not subject to more than minor pressure
differentials.

First, I don't call the forces that get water into your wiring in a
submersible 'wicking' I call it pressure injection.

Second, a boater who has to worry about if his wiring will work 10,000
feet
down has other problems more important than some silly wires.

Earl Colby Pottinger

--
I make public email sent to me! Hydrogen Peroxide Rockets, OpenBeos,
SerialTransfer 3.0, RAMDISK, BoatBuilding, DIY TabletPC. What happened to
the time? http://webhome.idirect.com/~earlcp




-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Earl Colby Pottinger wrote:

Second, a boater who has to worry about if his wiring will work 10,000 feet
down has other problems more important than some silly wires.

If a splice fails it will usually fail on or near the surface. Water
just gets in faster and further at depth, the damage it does to the
system is the same so it is well worthwhile to make your splices good ones.

Rick

Need some "waterproof" 12 v power connectors
 

Earl Colby Pottinger wrote:

Second, a boater who has to worry about if his wiring will work 10,000 feet
down has other problems more important than some silly wires.

If a splice fails it will usually fail on or near the surface. Water
just gets in faster and further at depth, the damage it does to the
system is the same so it is well worthwhile to make your splices good ones.

Rick