On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 14:07:14 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
wrote:

I took a similar approach. Breakers that are normally left on all the
time have green pilot LEDs. Things that should not be left on all the
time (running lights, heater, radios, etc are amber, and things that
should only be on when actually used (emergency fuel pump, etc)
have red LEDs. Just a glance at the panel gives me the story.

1/2 amp for a relay for convenience only seems like
a waste to me. I'd use a latching relay that only draws current when
actually switching or to keep it simple, I'd just use a switch.

Doug

The only "capacity" issue aboard Lionheart is we don't have near
enough CHARGER off the AC line, at the moment. That's being
rectified. There's plenty of DC power, mostly over concerns about the
12A drain from the B&G Pilot's hydraulic pump when it's running. But
the twin 700AH battery banks have plenty of reserve for running it
until someone wants a shower or other hot water, giving us an excuse
to start the Perkins and the 120 amp house alternator for some serious
charging power. The engine change has been pushed back to the first
week in December, so the big alternator will have TWO drive belts that
won't squeal under the strain like it has one now.... To charge the
700AH beasts from dead would still require hours at 120A, 60A per
bank. The other power sources like shaft alternator, solar panel,
wind charger are just fluff. They'd take forever to charge the
beasts....and the 10A charger currently on the boat has never caught
up...(c;



Larry W4CSC

"Very funny, Scotty! Now, BEAM ME MY CLOTHES! KIRK OUT!"

My intent is to do everything from solar and wind only for the most
part. Our shorepower charger is currently 110A and we generally
use the genset to power it while pulling down the cold plates at anchor.
Alternator on the engine is 160A. I wish it was large frame with 2 belts
but unfortunately I don't have the space to mount the larger unit. 12A
for the autopilot doesn't seem too bad if it only runs when moving
the rudder. Mine has a standby of an amp or two but can peak out
at 22A when moving the rudder quickly or against alot of helm.

Doug

"Larry W4CSC" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 14:07:14 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
wrote:

I took a similar approach. Breakers that are normally left on all the
time have green pilot LEDs. Things that should not be left on all the
time (running lights, heater, radios, etc are amber, and things that
should only be on when actually used (emergency fuel pump, etc)
have red LEDs. Just a glance at the panel gives me the story.

1/2 amp for a relay for convenience only seems like
a waste to me. I'd use a latching relay that only draws current when
actually switching or to keep it simple, I'd just use a switch.

Doug

The only "capacity" issue aboard Lionheart is we don't have near
enough CHARGER off the AC line, at the moment. That's being
rectified. There's plenty of DC power, mostly over concerns about the
12A drain from the B&G Pilot's hydraulic pump when it's running. But
the twin 700AH battery banks have plenty of reserve for running it
until someone wants a shower or other hot water, giving us an excuse
to start the Perkins and the 120 amp house alternator for some serious
charging power. The engine change has been pushed back to the first
week in December, so the big alternator will have TWO drive belts that
won't squeal under the strain like it has one now.... To charge the
700AH beasts from dead would still require hours at 120A, 60A per
bank. The other power sources like shaft alternator, solar panel,
wind charger are just fluff. They'd take forever to charge the
beasts....and the 10A charger currently on the boat has never caught
up...(c;



Larry W4CSC

"Very funny, Scotty! Now, BEAM ME MY CLOTHES! KIRK OUT!"

My intent is to do everything from solar and wind only for the most
part. Our shorepower charger is currently 110A and we generally
use the genset to power it while pulling down the cold plates at anchor.
Alternator on the engine is 160A. I wish it was large frame with 2 belts
but unfortunately I don't have the space to mount the larger unit. 12A
for the autopilot doesn't seem too bad if it only runs when moving
the rudder. Mine has a standby of an amp or two but can peak out
at 22A when moving the rudder quickly or against alot of helm.

Doug

"Larry W4CSC" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 14:07:14 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
wrote:

I took a similar approach. Breakers that are normally left on all the
time have green pilot LEDs. Things that should not be left on all the
time (running lights, heater, radios, etc are amber, and things that
should only be on when actually used (emergency fuel pump, etc)
have red LEDs. Just a glance at the panel gives me the story.

1/2 amp for a relay for convenience only seems like
a waste to me. I'd use a latching relay that only draws current when
actually switching or to keep it simple, I'd just use a switch.

Doug

The only "capacity" issue aboard Lionheart is we don't have near
enough CHARGER off the AC line, at the moment. That's being
rectified. There's plenty of DC power, mostly over concerns about the
12A drain from the B&G Pilot's hydraulic pump when it's running. But
the twin 700AH battery banks have plenty of reserve for running it
until someone wants a shower or other hot water, giving us an excuse
to start the Perkins and the 120 amp house alternator for some serious
charging power. The engine change has been pushed back to the first
week in December, so the big alternator will have TWO drive belts that
won't squeal under the strain like it has one now.... To charge the
700AH beasts from dead would still require hours at 120A, 60A per
bank. The other power sources like shaft alternator, solar panel,
wind charger are just fluff. They'd take forever to charge the
beasts....and the 10A charger currently on the boat has never caught
up...(c;



Larry W4CSC

"Very funny, Scotty! Now, BEAM ME MY CLOTHES! KIRK OUT!"

On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 22:59:42 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
wrote:

My intent is to do everything from solar and wind only for the most
part. Our shorepower charger is currently 110A and we generally
use the genset to power it while pulling down the cold plates at anchor.
Alternator on the engine is 160A. I wish it was large frame with 2 belts
but unfortunately I don't have the space to mount the larger unit. 12A
for the autopilot doesn't seem too bad if it only runs when moving
the rudder. Mine has a standby of an amp or two but can peak out
at 22A when moving the rudder quickly or against alot of helm.

Doug

That's how the B&G works. You can faintly hear the motor running from
the helm when it has to move the rudder. Smooth as glass, it is.

Most impressive array of power sources. I had to replace the starter
in my 6.2L diesel in the stepvan and opted for a geardriven starter to
ease the shock on the ring gear at the electric shop's advise. While
I was in there I asked about this HUGE alternator that was on his
bench. It is a gear-driven, engine oil cooled (oil flows through it)
off an inter-city bus beast. I think he said 380A.......Oh, to drool
over....and NO FANBELTS to squeal....(c;



Larry W4CSC

"Very funny, Scotty! Now, BEAM ME MY CLOTHES! KIRK OUT!"

On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 22:59:42 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
wrote:

My intent is to do everything from solar and wind only for the most
part. Our shorepower charger is currently 110A and we generally
use the genset to power it while pulling down the cold plates at anchor.
Alternator on the engine is 160A. I wish it was large frame with 2 belts
but unfortunately I don't have the space to mount the larger unit. 12A
for the autopilot doesn't seem too bad if it only runs when moving
the rudder. Mine has a standby of an amp or two but can peak out
at 22A when moving the rudder quickly or against alot of helm.

Doug

That's how the B&G works. You can faintly hear the motor running from
the helm when it has to move the rudder. Smooth as glass, it is.

Most impressive array of power sources. I had to replace the starter
in my 6.2L diesel in the stepvan and opted for a geardriven starter to
ease the shock on the ring gear at the electric shop's advise. While
I was in there I asked about this HUGE alternator that was on his
bench. It is a gear-driven, engine oil cooled (oil flows through it)
off an inter-city bus beast. I think he said 380A.......Oh, to drool
over....and NO FANBELTS to squeal....(c;



Larry W4CSC

"Very funny, Scotty! Now, BEAM ME MY CLOTHES! KIRK OUT!"

Cool idea! Belt driven anything is problematic. I carry a spare alternator
because eventually the tight belt tention required with a high output
alternator will wear out the bearings. Hopefully it is the bearings in the
alternator rather than those in the water pump or crankshaft that go.
My bother-in-law just gave me a huge alternator. 175A dual belt. I
asked him for one I could use to simulate a wind generator for development
work. This thing is a monster! It must weigh 30 lbs! Selectable voltage
and everything.

Are you saying the the hydraulic motor on the B&G run continuously?
Is there an advantage to that? Mine just runs when the rudder moves
and is thus pretty kind to the bats.

Doug, k3qt
s/v Callista

"Larry W4CSC" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 22:59:42 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
wrote:

My intent is to do everything from solar and wind only for the most
part. Our shorepower charger is currently 110A and we generally
use the genset to power it while pulling down the cold plates at anchor.
Alternator on the engine is 160A. I wish it was large frame with 2 belts
but unfortunately I don't have the space to mount the larger unit. 12A
for the autopilot doesn't seem too bad if it only runs when moving
the rudder. Mine has a standby of an amp or two but can peak out
at 22A when moving the rudder quickly or against alot of helm.

Doug

That's how the B&G works. You can faintly hear the motor running from
the helm when it has to move the rudder. Smooth as glass, it is.

Most impressive array of power sources. I had to replace the starter
in my 6.2L diesel in the stepvan and opted for a geardriven starter to
ease the shock on the ring gear at the electric shop's advise. While
I was in there I asked about this HUGE alternator that was on his
bench. It is a gear-driven, engine oil cooled (oil flows through it)
off an inter-city bus beast. I think he said 380A.......Oh, to drool
over....and NO FANBELTS to squeal....(c;



Larry W4CSC

"Very funny, Scotty! Now, BEAM ME MY CLOTHES! KIRK OUT!"

Cool idea! Belt driven anything is problematic. I carry a spare alternator
because eventually the tight belt tention required with a high output
alternator will wear out the bearings. Hopefully it is the bearings in the
alternator rather than those in the water pump or crankshaft that go.
My bother-in-law just gave me a huge alternator. 175A dual belt. I
asked him for one I could use to simulate a wind generator for development
work. This thing is a monster! It must weigh 30 lbs! Selectable voltage
and everything.

Are you saying the the hydraulic motor on the B&G run continuously?
Is there an advantage to that? Mine just runs when the rudder moves
and is thus pretty kind to the bats.

Doug, k3qt
s/v Callista

"Larry W4CSC" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 22:59:42 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
wrote:

My intent is to do everything from solar and wind only for the most
part. Our shorepower charger is currently 110A and we generally
use the genset to power it while pulling down the cold plates at anchor.
Alternator on the engine is 160A. I wish it was large frame with 2 belts
but unfortunately I don't have the space to mount the larger unit. 12A
for the autopilot doesn't seem too bad if it only runs when moving
the rudder. Mine has a standby of an amp or two but can peak out
at 22A when moving the rudder quickly or against alot of helm.

Doug

That's how the B&G works. You can faintly hear the motor running from
the helm when it has to move the rudder. Smooth as glass, it is.

Most impressive array of power sources. I had to replace the starter
in my 6.2L diesel in the stepvan and opted for a geardriven starter to
ease the shock on the ring gear at the electric shop's advise. While
I was in there I asked about this HUGE alternator that was on his
bench. It is a gear-driven, engine oil cooled (oil flows through it)
off an inter-city bus beast. I think he said 380A.......Oh, to drool
over....and NO FANBELTS to squeal....(c;



Larry W4CSC

"Very funny, Scotty! Now, BEAM ME MY CLOTHES! KIRK OUT!"

On Sat, 15 Nov 2003 17:37:35 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
wrote:

Are you saying the the hydraulic motor on the B&G run continuously?
Is there an advantage to that? Mine just runs when the rudder moves
and is thus pretty kind to the bats.

Oh, no, not at all! As a matter of fact, IT REVERSES! Goes one way
to port and the other way to starboard. Controls are in the computer
box. There's a linear position sensor you calibrate from the helm for
hard to port/starboard and centered so the computer has a reference to
go by.

The motor doesn't run until it needs to move the rudder. It even runs
at variable speed, controlled by the computer. When it needs to move
quick, it runs hard.





Larry W4CSC

"Very funny, Scotty! Now, BEAM ME MY CLOTHES! KIRK OUT!"

On Sat, 15 Nov 2003 17:37:35 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
wrote:

Are you saying the the hydraulic motor on the B&G run continuously?
Is there an advantage to that? Mine just runs when the rudder moves
and is thus pretty kind to the bats.

Oh, no, not at all! As a matter of fact, IT REVERSES! Goes one way
to port and the other way to starboard. Controls are in the computer
box. There's a linear position sensor you calibrate from the helm for
hard to port/starboard and centered so the computer has a reference to
go by.

The motor doesn't run until it needs to move the rudder. It even runs
at variable speed, controlled by the computer. When it needs to move
quick, it runs hard.





Larry W4CSC

"Very funny, Scotty! Now, BEAM ME MY CLOTHES! KIRK OUT!"

Larry,

Sounds good. That's exactly the way mine works. Motor is directly
connected to the hydraulic motor via a belt. Motor only activates
when the rudder needs to be moved and in the direction necessary.
Rudder position sensor is connected directly to the rudder control arm
so the computer knows the story. No calibration necessary other than
to adjust the linkage at installation time to know where center is.

Doug. k3qt
s/v Callista

"Larry W4CSC" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 15 Nov 2003 17:37:35 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
wrote:

Are you saying the the hydraulic motor on the B&G run continuously?
Is there an advantage to that? Mine just runs when the rudder moves
and is thus pretty kind to the bats.

Oh, no, not at all! As a matter of fact, IT REVERSES! Goes one way
to port and the other way to starboard. Controls are in the computer
box. There's a linear position sensor you calibrate from the helm for
hard to port/starboard and centered so the computer has a reference to
go by.

The motor doesn't run until it needs to move the rudder. It even runs
at variable speed, controlled by the computer. When it needs to move
quick, it runs hard.





Larry W4CSC

"Very funny, Scotty! Now, BEAM ME MY CLOTHES! KIRK OUT!"