On Tue, 11 Nov 2003 14:45:26 GMT, "Geoffrey W. Schultz"
wrote:


Nylon
Acetal
UHMW
LDPE
HDPE

Comments on the machining qualities, UV resistance, and overall strength of
these would be greatly appreciated.

I have limited experience in the others but like Delrin (Acetal). It
is very durable, easy to work with (for an amateur like me), and is
easy to get a good finish on in a machine. It is also available in
versions with very good UV resistibility, much better than Nylon.

http://plastics.dupont.com/NASApp/my...0&locale=en_US

http://www.sdplastics.com/ultravioletresistance.html



/Marcus

--
Marcus AAkesson
Gothenburg Callsigns: SM6XFN & SB4779
Sweden
Keep the world clean - no HTML in news or mail !

Once again Glenn comes up with the winning response in a later
message. The only thing I'll add is that nylon is moisture sensitive.
It absorbs moisture easily and expands with moisture content (at
least when compared to most other plastics).

If you are looking at something like a tight fitting sleeve bushing then
I'd avoid nylon and use acetal or UHMW.

"Geoffrey W. Schultz" wrote in message
. 16...
I have a KISS wind generator that develops vibration at certain wind
speeds. The problem is that there's a PVC fitting that goes over a 2"
stainless schedule 40 support pipe that is loose fitting. I want to
machine one with a sleeve bearing on a lathe and make it out of plastic.
However, I really don't have any experience machining plastic, I've been
looking at www.mscdirect.com under Raw Materials/Plastic Material/Rods for
3" material. To keep costs under control I'm looking at the following:

Once again Glenn comes up with the winning response in a later
message. The only thing I'll add is that nylon is moisture sensitive.
It absorbs moisture easily and expands with moisture content (at
least when compared to most other plastics).

If you are looking at something like a tight fitting sleeve bushing then
I'd avoid nylon and use acetal or UHMW.

"Geoffrey W. Schultz" wrote in message
. 16...
I have a KISS wind generator that develops vibration at certain wind
speeds. The problem is that there's a PVC fitting that goes over a 2"
stainless schedule 40 support pipe that is loose fitting. I want to
machine one with a sleeve bearing on a lathe and make it out of plastic.
However, I really don't have any experience machining plastic, I've been
looking at www.mscdirect.com under Raw Materials/Plastic Material/Rods for
3" material. To keep costs under control I'm looking at the following:

Based upon input from this forum, rec.crafts.metalworking and all of the
pointers that were provided, I decided to go with black UHMW. As
described on some web sites it's the "poor man's teflon" with a very low
coefficient of friction, good UV stability and machines well. On top of
that, a 3"x1' piece of rod UHMW is only $11. I ordered it yesterday
from MSC and it'll be here today.

I've opted to simply machine the UHMW to form the sleave bearing surface
rather than purchase a sleave bearing and mount it in the housing. I'll
let you know how it turns out,

Thanks again for all of the help!

-- Geoff

"Matt/Meribeth Pedersen" wrote in
nk.net:

Once again Glenn comes up with the winning response in a later
message. The only thing I'll add is that nylon is moisture sensitive.
It absorbs moisture easily and expands with moisture content (at
least when compared to most other plastics).

If you are looking at something like a tight fitting sleeve bushing
then I'd avoid nylon and use acetal or UHMW.

"Geoffrey W. Schultz" wrote in message
. 16...
I have a KISS wind generator that develops vibration at certain wind
speeds. The problem is that there's a PVC fitting that goes over a
2" stainless schedule 40 support pipe that is loose fitting. I want
to machine one with a sleeve bearing on a lathe and make it out of
plastic. However, I really don't have any experience machining
plastic, I've been looking at www.mscdirect.com under Raw
Materials/Plastic Material/Rods for 3" material. To keep costs under
control I'm looking at the following:

Based upon input from this forum, rec.crafts.metalworking and all of the
pointers that were provided, I decided to go with black UHMW. As
described on some web sites it's the "poor man's teflon" with a very low
coefficient of friction, good UV stability and machines well. On top of
that, a 3"x1' piece of rod UHMW is only $11. I ordered it yesterday
from MSC and it'll be here today.

I've opted to simply machine the UHMW to form the sleave bearing surface
rather than purchase a sleave bearing and mount it in the housing. I'll
let you know how it turns out,

Thanks again for all of the help!

-- Geoff

"Matt/Meribeth Pedersen" wrote in
nk.net:

Once again Glenn comes up with the winning response in a later
message. The only thing I'll add is that nylon is moisture sensitive.
It absorbs moisture easily and expands with moisture content (at
least when compared to most other plastics).

If you are looking at something like a tight fitting sleeve bushing
then I'd avoid nylon and use acetal or UHMW.

"Geoffrey W. Schultz" wrote in message
. 16...
I have a KISS wind generator that develops vibration at certain wind
speeds. The problem is that there's a PVC fitting that goes over a
2" stainless schedule 40 support pipe that is loose fitting. I want
to machine one with a sleeve bearing on a lathe and make it out of
plastic. However, I really don't have any experience machining
plastic, I've been looking at www.mscdirect.com under Raw
Materials/Plastic Material/Rods for 3" material. To keep costs under
control I'm looking at the following:

I have well equipped woodworking workshop.
Can I use those all machines to work with UHMW as well?
Adam
"Geoffrey W. Schultz" wrote in message
9.17...
Based upon input from this forum, rec.crafts.metalworking and all of the
pointers that were provided, I decided to go with black UHMW. As
described on some web sites it's the "poor man's teflon" with a very low
coefficient of friction, good UV stability and machines well. On top of
that, a 3"x1' piece of rod UHMW is only $11. I ordered it yesterday
from MSC and it'll be here today.

I've opted to simply machine the UHMW to form the sleave bearing surface
rather than purchase a sleave bearing and mount it in the housing. I'll
let you know how it turns out,

Thanks again for all of the help!

-- Geoff

"Matt/Meribeth Pedersen" wrote in
nk.net:

Once again Glenn comes up with the winning response in a later
message. The only thing I'll add is that nylon is moisture sensitive.
It absorbs moisture easily and expands with moisture content (at
least when compared to most other plastics).

If you are looking at something like a tight fitting sleeve bushing
then I'd avoid nylon and use acetal or UHMW.

"Geoffrey W. Schultz" wrote in message
. 16...
I have a KISS wind generator that develops vibration at certain wind
speeds. The problem is that there's a PVC fitting that goes over a
2" stainless schedule 40 support pipe that is loose fitting. I want
to machine one with a sleeve bearing on a lathe and make it out of
plastic. However, I really don't have any experience machining
plastic, I've been looking at www.mscdirect.com under Raw
Materials/Plastic Material/Rods for 3" material. To keep costs under
control I'm looking at the following:

I have well equipped woodworking workshop.
Can I use those all machines to work with UHMW as well?
Adam
"Geoffrey W. Schultz" wrote in message
9.17...
Based upon input from this forum, rec.crafts.metalworking and all of the
pointers that were provided, I decided to go with black UHMW. As
described on some web sites it's the "poor man's teflon" with a very low
coefficient of friction, good UV stability and machines well. On top of
that, a 3"x1' piece of rod UHMW is only $11. I ordered it yesterday
from MSC and it'll be here today.

I've opted to simply machine the UHMW to form the sleave bearing surface
rather than purchase a sleave bearing and mount it in the housing. I'll
let you know how it turns out,

Thanks again for all of the help!

-- Geoff

"Matt/Meribeth Pedersen" wrote in
nk.net:

Once again Glenn comes up with the winning response in a later
message. The only thing I'll add is that nylon is moisture sensitive.
It absorbs moisture easily and expands with moisture content (at
least when compared to most other plastics).

If you are looking at something like a tight fitting sleeve bushing
then I'd avoid nylon and use acetal or UHMW.

"Geoffrey W. Schultz" wrote in message
. 16...
I have a KISS wind generator that develops vibration at certain wind
speeds. The problem is that there's a PVC fitting that goes over a
2" stainless schedule 40 support pipe that is loose fitting. I want
to machine one with a sleeve bearing on a lathe and make it out of
plastic. However, I really don't have any experience machining
plastic, I've been looking at www.mscdirect.com under Raw
Materials/Plastic Material/Rods for 3" material. To keep costs under
control I'm looking at the following:

Adam wrote:

I have well equipped woodworking workshop.
Can I use those all machines to work with UHMW as well?
Adam

Mostly you can. I have better luck with a tripple chip carbide tipped
blade made for non-ferous metals. It has less tendancy to melt the
plastic. Drilling is easy but getting any tolerance on a wood lathe
takes a Zin that I do not possess. That really requires the presision
of a metal lathe.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Adam wrote:

I have well equipped woodworking workshop.
Can I use those all machines to work with UHMW as well?
Adam

Mostly you can. I have better luck with a tripple chip carbide tipped
blade made for non-ferous metals. It has less tendancy to melt the
plastic. Drilling is easy but getting any tolerance on a wood lathe
takes a Zin that I do not possess. That really requires the presision
of a metal lathe.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

I have never really understood why anyone buys a wood lathe -- and I say
this only a little in jest.

Wood lathes are expensive, the good ones are heavy, but you still have to
hold the tool. A metal lathe of similar size, that's old and little tired
for precision metalworking, will sell for less money than a similar sized
wood lathe, but do precision woodwork and also pretty good metalwork.

I've had a 13" South Bend for years. It was born in the same year I was,
1943, and is definitely not a production machine, but it does work that's
just fine for most boat purposes. The bed is only 48", which means that it
will do only around 20" between centers, but I have an aluminum extension
that will hold a tailstock way out there for woodwork. And, of course, both
the steady rest and the hole through the headstock let you do longer work
that's thin.

With steady rest, taper attachment, three jaw chuck, four jaw chuck,
faceplates, legs, and 1/2 hp single phase motor mounted on a separate floor
mount (motor probably came with the lathe -- it's huge), it would probably
go today for around $850.

I've just bought a 9" South Bend at auction, with a six jaw chuck, collet
closer and collets, and miscellaneous tooling for $650. It's also got a 48"
bed, but because both the headstock and the tailstock are shorter, it will
do 30" between centers. I bought it because it's a better size for Fintry
and sits on a bench. It's somewhat younger, maybe 1965 or so.

Now the only significant disadvantage I see with these guys is that they're
heavy -- that's good when using them, but bad when moving. However, even
the 13" comes apart into pieces no one of which weighs more than around 140
pounds. The heaviest piece of the 9" (the bed) is around 90 pounds. They
won't spin up quite as fast as a wood lathe, but that's not really a
problem.

Parts for South Bend and the other standard brands are easily available --
indeed the dealers say that parting out (on eBay) is always more lucrative
than selling the whole thing -- but it's sort of beside the point, as
they're so rock solid that parts are rarely needed.

So why buy a wood lathe?

--
Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com


..
"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:LaNsb.560$0K4.175@lakeread04...

Adam wrote:

I have well equipped woodworking workshop.
Can I use those all machines to work with UHMW as well?
Adam

Mostly you can. I have better luck with a tripple chip carbide tipped
blade made for non-ferous metals. It has less tendancy to melt the
plastic. Drilling is easy but getting any tolerance on a wood lathe
takes a Zin that I do not possess. That really requires the presision
of a metal lathe.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com