I have never really understood why anyone buys a wood lathe -- and I say
this only a little in jest.

Wood lathes are expensive, the good ones are heavy, but you still have to
hold the tool. A metal lathe of similar size, that's old and little tired
for precision metalworking, will sell for less money than a similar sized
wood lathe, but do precision woodwork and also pretty good metalwork.

I've had a 13" South Bend for years. It was born in the same year I was,
1943, and is definitely not a production machine, but it does work that's
just fine for most boat purposes. The bed is only 48", which means that it
will do only around 20" between centers, but I have an aluminum extension
that will hold a tailstock way out there for woodwork. And, of course, both
the steady rest and the hole through the headstock let you do longer work
that's thin.

With steady rest, taper attachment, three jaw chuck, four jaw chuck,
faceplates, legs, and 1/2 hp single phase motor mounted on a separate floor
mount (motor probably came with the lathe -- it's huge), it would probably
go today for around $850.

I've just bought a 9" South Bend at auction, with a six jaw chuck, collet
closer and collets, and miscellaneous tooling for $650. It's also got a 48"
bed, but because both the headstock and the tailstock are shorter, it will
do 30" between centers. I bought it because it's a better size for Fintry
and sits on a bench. It's somewhat younger, maybe 1965 or so.

Now the only significant disadvantage I see with these guys is that they're
heavy -- that's good when using them, but bad when moving. However, even
the 13" comes apart into pieces no one of which weighs more than around 140
pounds. The heaviest piece of the 9" (the bed) is around 90 pounds. They
won't spin up quite as fast as a wood lathe, but that's not really a
problem.

Parts for South Bend and the other standard brands are easily available --
indeed the dealers say that parting out (on eBay) is always more lucrative
than selling the whole thing -- but it's sort of beside the point, as
they're so rock solid that parts are rarely needed.

So why buy a wood lathe?

--
Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com


..
"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:LaNsb.560$0K4.175@lakeread04...

Adam wrote:

I have well equipped woodworking workshop.
Can I use those all machines to work with UHMW as well?
Adam

Mostly you can. I have better luck with a tripple chip carbide tipped
blade made for non-ferous metals. It has less tendancy to melt the
plastic. Drilling is easy but getting any tolerance on a wood lathe
takes a Zin that I do not possess. That really requires the presision
of a metal lathe.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

But there is something about the freedom of a high quality wood lathe.
I have a neighbor who turns bowls and vases from old rotten tree parts
on an ancient Oliver. He would not trade it for the finest metal lathe
on the market but his aproach is completely different from ours.
Straight lines and mathematics just interfere with his bringing out the
"spirit" of the wood. I guess artist and engineers have different Zin. :-)

Jim Woodward wrote:
I have never really understood why anyone buys a wood lathe -- and I say
this only a little in jest.

Wood lathes are expensive, the good ones are heavy, but you still have to
hold the tool. A metal lathe of similar size, that's old and little tired
for precision metalworking, will sell for less money than a similar sized
wood lathe, but do precision woodwork and also pretty good metalwork.

I've had a 13" South Bend for years. It was born in the same year I was,
1943, and is definitely not a production machine, but it does work that's
just fine for most boat purposes. The bed is only 48", which means that it
will do only around 20" between centers, but I have an aluminum extension
that will hold a tailstock way out there for woodwork. And, of course, both
the steady rest and the hole through the headstock let you do longer work
that's thin.

With steady rest, taper attachment, three jaw chuck, four jaw chuck,
faceplates, legs, and 1/2 hp single phase motor mounted on a separate floor
mount (motor probably came with the lathe -- it's huge), it would probably
go today for around $850.

I've just bought a 9" South Bend at auction, with a six jaw chuck, collet
closer and collets, and miscellaneous tooling for $650. It's also got a 48"
bed, but because both the headstock and the tailstock are shorter, it will
do 30" between centers. I bought it because it's a better size for Fintry
and sits on a bench. It's somewhat younger, maybe 1965 or so.

Now the only significant disadvantage I see with these guys is that they're
heavy -- that's good when using them, but bad when moving. However, even
the 13" comes apart into pieces no one of which weighs more than around 140
pounds. The heaviest piece of the 9" (the bed) is around 90 pounds. They
won't spin up quite as fast as a wood lathe, but that's not really a
problem.

Parts for South Bend and the other standard brands are easily available --
indeed the dealers say that parting out (on eBay) is always more lucrative
than selling the whole thing -- but it's sort of beside the point, as
they're so rock solid that parts are rarely needed.

So why buy a wood lathe?


--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

But there is something about the freedom of a high quality wood lathe.
I have a neighbor who turns bowls and vases from old rotten tree parts
on an ancient Oliver. He would not trade it for the finest metal lathe
on the market but his aproach is completely different from ours.
Straight lines and mathematics just interfere with his bringing out the
"spirit" of the wood. I guess artist and engineers have different Zin. :-)

Jim Woodward wrote:
I have never really understood why anyone buys a wood lathe -- and I say
this only a little in jest.

Wood lathes are expensive, the good ones are heavy, but you still have to
hold the tool. A metal lathe of similar size, that's old and little tired
for precision metalworking, will sell for less money than a similar sized
wood lathe, but do precision woodwork and also pretty good metalwork.

I've had a 13" South Bend for years. It was born in the same year I was,
1943, and is definitely not a production machine, but it does work that's
just fine for most boat purposes. The bed is only 48", which means that it
will do only around 20" between centers, but I have an aluminum extension
that will hold a tailstock way out there for woodwork. And, of course, both
the steady rest and the hole through the headstock let you do longer work
that's thin.

With steady rest, taper attachment, three jaw chuck, four jaw chuck,
faceplates, legs, and 1/2 hp single phase motor mounted on a separate floor
mount (motor probably came with the lathe -- it's huge), it would probably
go today for around $850.

I've just bought a 9" South Bend at auction, with a six jaw chuck, collet
closer and collets, and miscellaneous tooling for $650. It's also got a 48"
bed, but because both the headstock and the tailstock are shorter, it will
do 30" between centers. I bought it because it's a better size for Fintry
and sits on a bench. It's somewhat younger, maybe 1965 or so.

Now the only significant disadvantage I see with these guys is that they're
heavy -- that's good when using them, but bad when moving. However, even
the 13" comes apart into pieces no one of which weighs more than around 140
pounds. The heaviest piece of the 9" (the bed) is around 90 pounds. They
won't spin up quite as fast as a wood lathe, but that's not really a
problem.

Parts for South Bend and the other standard brands are easily available --
indeed the dealers say that parting out (on eBay) is always more lucrative
than selling the whole thing -- but it's sort of beside the point, as
they're so rock solid that parts are rarely needed.

So why buy a wood lathe?


--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

You can easily put a typical wood lathe tool rest on the cross slide. Or,
take off the saddle and clamp a rest right to the bed for more swing.

I just see these guys in Fine Woodworking building special, super heavy wood
lathes for turning bowls and other big things, and I wonder why they don't
just use an old metal lathe -- when you get bigger than 13" or so, the old
metal lathes are practically free, if you don't count the pain of moving
them.


--
Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com


..
"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:hYNsb.787$0K4.196@lakeread04...
But there is something about the freedom of a high quality wood lathe.
I have a neighbor who turns bowls and vases from old rotten tree parts
on an ancient Oliver. He would not trade it for the finest metal lathe
on the market but his aproach is completely different from ours.
Straight lines and mathematics just interfere with his bringing out the
"spirit" of the wood. I guess artist and engineers have different Zin.
:-)

Jim Woodward wrote:
I have never really understood why anyone buys a wood lathe -- and I say
this only a little in jest.

Wood lathes are expensive, the good ones are heavy, but you still have
to
hold the tool. A metal lathe of similar size, that's old and little
tired
for precision metalworking, will sell for less money than a similar
sized
wood lathe, but do precision woodwork and also pretty good metalwork.

I've had a 13" South Bend for years. It was born in the same year I
was,
1943, and is definitely not a production machine, but it does work
that's
just fine for most boat purposes. The bed is only 48", which means that
it
will do only around 20" between centers, but I have an aluminum
extension
that will hold a tailstock way out there for woodwork. And, of course,
both
the steady rest and the hole through the headstock let you do longer
work
that's thin.

With steady rest, taper attachment, three jaw chuck, four jaw chuck,
faceplates, legs, and 1/2 hp single phase motor mounted on a separate
floor
mount (motor probably came with the lathe -- it's huge), it would
probably
go today for around $850.

I've just bought a 9" South Bend at auction, with a six jaw chuck,
collet
closer and collets, and miscellaneous tooling for $650. It's also got a
48"
bed, but because both the headstock and the tailstock are shorter, it
will
do 30" between centers. I bought it because it's a better size for
Fintry
and sits on a bench. It's somewhat younger, maybe 1965 or so.

Now the only significant disadvantage I see with these guys is that
they're
heavy -- that's good when using them, but bad when moving. However,
even
the 13" comes apart into pieces no one of which weighs more than around
140
pounds. The heaviest piece of the 9" (the bed) is around 90 pounds. They
won't spin up quite as fast as a wood lathe, but that's not really a
problem.

Parts for South Bend and the other standard brands are easily
available --
indeed the dealers say that parting out (on eBay) is always more
lucrative
than selling the whole thing -- but it's sort of beside the point, as
they're so rock solid that parts are rarely needed.

So why buy a wood lathe?


--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

You can easily put a typical wood lathe tool rest on the cross slide. Or,
take off the saddle and clamp a rest right to the bed for more swing.

I just see these guys in Fine Woodworking building special, super heavy wood
lathes for turning bowls and other big things, and I wonder why they don't
just use an old metal lathe -- when you get bigger than 13" or so, the old
metal lathes are practically free, if you don't count the pain of moving
them.


--
Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com


..
"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:hYNsb.787$0K4.196@lakeread04...
But there is something about the freedom of a high quality wood lathe.
I have a neighbor who turns bowls and vases from old rotten tree parts
on an ancient Oliver. He would not trade it for the finest metal lathe
on the market but his aproach is completely different from ours.
Straight lines and mathematics just interfere with his bringing out the
"spirit" of the wood. I guess artist and engineers have different Zin.
:-)

Jim Woodward wrote:
I have never really understood why anyone buys a wood lathe -- and I say
this only a little in jest.

Wood lathes are expensive, the good ones are heavy, but you still have
to
hold the tool. A metal lathe of similar size, that's old and little
tired
for precision metalworking, will sell for less money than a similar
sized
wood lathe, but do precision woodwork and also pretty good metalwork.

I've had a 13" South Bend for years. It was born in the same year I
was,
1943, and is definitely not a production machine, but it does work
that's
just fine for most boat purposes. The bed is only 48", which means that
it
will do only around 20" between centers, but I have an aluminum
extension
that will hold a tailstock way out there for woodwork. And, of course,
both
the steady rest and the hole through the headstock let you do longer
work
that's thin.

With steady rest, taper attachment, three jaw chuck, four jaw chuck,
faceplates, legs, and 1/2 hp single phase motor mounted on a separate
floor
mount (motor probably came with the lathe -- it's huge), it would
probably
go today for around $850.

I've just bought a 9" South Bend at auction, with a six jaw chuck,
collet
closer and collets, and miscellaneous tooling for $650. It's also got a
48"
bed, but because both the headstock and the tailstock are shorter, it
will
do 30" between centers. I bought it because it's a better size for
Fintry
and sits on a bench. It's somewhat younger, maybe 1965 or so.

Now the only significant disadvantage I see with these guys is that
they're
heavy -- that's good when using them, but bad when moving. However,
even
the 13" comes apart into pieces no one of which weighs more than around
140
pounds. The heaviest piece of the 9" (the bed) is around 90 pounds. They
won't spin up quite as fast as a wood lathe, but that's not really a
problem.

Parts for South Bend and the other standard brands are easily
available --
indeed the dealers say that parting out (on eBay) is always more
lucrative
than selling the whole thing -- but it's sort of beside the point, as
they're so rock solid that parts are rarely needed.

So why buy a wood lathe?


--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

I just wanted to let you know that I machined the part earlier this week
and was VERY happy with the finish that I got. It's a smooth as a baby's
bottom. I had to cut 2" pipe threads in it, and they too turned out great.
Taking larger cuts of .100 to .150 worked great using a very sharp HSS
cutter. Thanks again for the input!

-- Geoff

"Geoffrey W. Schultz" wrote in
9.17:

Based upon input from this forum, rec.crafts.metalworking and all of the
pointers that were provided, I decided to go with black UHMW. As
described on some web sites it's the "poor man's teflon" with a very low
coefficient of friction, good UV stability and machines well. On top of
that, a 3"x1' piece of rod UHMW is only $11. I ordered it yesterday
from MSC and it'll be here today.

I've opted to simply machine the UHMW to form the sleave bearing surface
rather than purchase a sleave bearing and mount it in the housing. I'll
let you know how it turns out,

Thanks again for all of the help!

-- Geoff

I just wanted to let you know that I machined the part earlier this week
and was VERY happy with the finish that I got. It's a smooth as a baby's
bottom. I had to cut 2" pipe threads in it, and they too turned out great.
Taking larger cuts of .100 to .150 worked great using a very sharp HSS
cutter. Thanks again for the input!

-- Geoff

"Geoffrey W. Schultz" wrote in
9.17:

Based upon input from this forum, rec.crafts.metalworking and all of the
pointers that were provided, I decided to go with black UHMW. As
described on some web sites it's the "poor man's teflon" with a very low
coefficient of friction, good UV stability and machines well. On top of
that, a 3"x1' piece of rod UHMW is only $11. I ordered it yesterday
from MSC and it'll be here today.

I've opted to simply machine the UHMW to form the sleave bearing surface
rather than purchase a sleave bearing and mount it in the housing. I'll
let you know how it turns out,

Thanks again for all of the help!

-- Geoff

Glad to hear it worked out well. Let me know how it performs. Might
let Doug know how it works as well. He might want to be able to
recommend it to new owners.

Doug
s/v Callista

"Geoffrey W. Schultz" wrote in message
4.17...
I just wanted to let you know that I machined the part earlier this week
and was VERY happy with the finish that I got. It's a smooth as a baby's
bottom. I had to cut 2" pipe threads in it, and they too turned out
great.
Taking larger cuts of .100 to .150 worked great using a very sharp HSS
cutter. Thanks again for the input!

-- Geoff

"Geoffrey W. Schultz" wrote in
9.17:

Based upon input from this forum, rec.crafts.metalworking and all of the
pointers that were provided, I decided to go with black UHMW. As
described on some web sites it's the "poor man's teflon" with a very low
coefficient of friction, good UV stability and machines well. On top of
that, a 3"x1' piece of rod UHMW is only $11. I ordered it yesterday
from MSC and it'll be here today.

I've opted to simply machine the UHMW to form the sleave bearing surface
rather than purchase a sleave bearing and mount it in the housing. I'll
let you know how it turns out,

Thanks again for all of the help!

-- Geoff

Glad to hear it worked out well. Let me know how it performs. Might
let Doug know how it works as well. He might want to be able to
recommend it to new owners.

Doug
s/v Callista

"Geoffrey W. Schultz" wrote in message
4.17...
I just wanted to let you know that I machined the part earlier this week
and was VERY happy with the finish that I got. It's a smooth as a baby's
bottom. I had to cut 2" pipe threads in it, and they too turned out
great.
Taking larger cuts of .100 to .150 worked great using a very sharp HSS
cutter. Thanks again for the input!

-- Geoff

"Geoffrey W. Schultz" wrote in
9.17:

Based upon input from this forum, rec.crafts.metalworking and all of the
pointers that were provided, I decided to go with black UHMW. As
described on some web sites it's the "poor man's teflon" with a very low
coefficient of friction, good UV stability and machines well. On top of
that, a 3"x1' piece of rod UHMW is only $11. I ordered it yesterday
from MSC and it'll be here today.

I've opted to simply machine the UHMW to form the sleave bearing surface
rather than purchase a sleave bearing and mount it in the housing. I'll
let you know how it turns out,

Thanks again for all of the help!

-- Geoff

"Jim Woodward" jameslwoodward at attbi dot com wrote in message ...

I figured that out ages ago :-) Another good trick is to mount a
router on the cross slide if the lathe has a high enough centre
height. This gets the cutting speed right up there, faster than a wood
lathe and with power feed.

For bowl turning you can hang a faceplate off the back end of the
spindle and rig a tool rest.

I picked up an old metal lathe that swings 28" in the gap for $100. I
don't use it often but when I need it, it's there.

PDW

You can easily put a typical wood lathe tool rest on the cross slide. Or,

take off the saddle and clamp a rest right to the bed for more swing.



I just see these guys in Fine Woodworking building special, super heavy wood

lathes for turning bowls and other big things, and I wonder why they don't

just use an old metal lathe -- when you get bigger than 13" or so, the old

metal lathes are practically free, if you don't count the pain of moving

them.





--

Jim Woodward

www.mvFintry.com





.

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message

news:hYNsb.787$0K4.196@lakeread04...

But there is something about the freedom of a high quality wood lathe.

I have a neighbor who turns bowls and vases from old rotten tree parts

on an ancient Oliver. He would not trade it for the finest metal lathe

on the market but his aproach is completely different from ours.

Straight lines and mathematics just interfere with his bringing out the

"spirit" of the wood. I guess artist and engineers have different Zin.

:-)



Jim Woodward wrote:

I have never really understood why anyone buys a wood lathe -- and I say

this only a little in jest.



Wood lathes are expensive, the good ones are heavy, but you still have

to

hold the tool. A metal lathe of similar size, that's old and little

tired

for precision metalworking, will sell for less money than a similar

sized

wood lathe, but do precision woodwork and also pretty good metalwork.



I've had a 13" South Bend for years. It was born in the same year I

was,

1943, and is definitely not a production machine, but it does work

that's

just fine for most boat purposes. The bed is only 48", which means that

it

will do only around 20" between centers, but I have an aluminum

extension

that will hold a tailstock way out there for woodwork. And, of course,

both

the steady rest and the hole through the headstock let you do longer

work

that's thin.



With steady rest, taper attachment, three jaw chuck, four jaw chuck,

faceplates, legs, and 1/2 hp single phase motor mounted on a separate

floor

mount (motor probably came with the lathe -- it's huge), it would

probably

go today for around $850.



I've just bought a 9" South Bend at auction, with a six jaw chuck,

collet

closer and collets, and miscellaneous tooling for $650. It's also got a

48"

bed, but because both the headstock and the tailstock are shorter, it

will

do 30" between centers. I bought it because it's a better size for

Fintry

and sits on a bench. It's somewhat younger, maybe 1965 or so.



Now the only significant disadvantage I see with these guys is that

they're

heavy -- that's good when using them, but bad when moving. However,

even

the 13" comes apart into pieces no one of which weighs more than around

140

pounds. The heaviest piece of the 9" (the bed) is around 90 pounds. They

won't spin up quite as fast as a wood lathe, but that's not really a

problem.



Parts for South Bend and the other standard brands are easily

available --

indeed the dealers say that parting out (on eBay) is always more

lucrative

than selling the whole thing -- but it's sort of beside the point, as

they're so rock solid that parts are rarely needed.



So why buy a wood lathe?





--

Glenn Ashmore



I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack

there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com

Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com