"Jere Lull" skrev i en meddelelse
...
In article ,
lid wrote:

"capt.bill11" wrote:
You just use a power windlass with a self dropping anchor with a up/
down switch at the helm.

SNIP

I agree, except for the size. I have found windlasses to be a bother
with modern designs at 32' or below, say about 5 tons. In the rare
cases
where we're leaving an anchorage in enough wind to make hauling
difficult, either Pat twiddles the motor controls or I shift the rode
to
the stern and haul with the genny winch.

How do you handle this situation, if you're the only person on the boat?
I mean, how do you get the anchor in place with the chain/rode, without
damaging the freeboard?

--
Flemming Torp
Gimle/DEN-61

In article ,
"Flemming Torp" fletopkanelbolle2rp.danmark wrote:

In the rare cases where we're leaving an anchorage in enough wind
to make hauling difficult, either Pat twiddles the motor controls
or I shift the rode to the stern and haul with the genny winch.

How do you handle this situation, if you're the only person on the
boat? I mean, how do you get the anchor in place with the chain/rode,
without damaging the freeboard?

Lead the free rode back to the aft fairlead and winch, release the rode
at the bow & haul.

Truth be told, I did that only for practice as it's messy and I hardly
ever find myself needing to leave an anchorage in winds that high. DID
do it a couple of times to free a very deeply set anchor.

About my most difficult hand-haul was in the BVI on a Beneteau 33 in
about 25 knots (Christmas winds). By simply hauling only when the rode
was a little freer from our sailing around, snubbing the rest of the
time, it didn't take much effort, though it took a while.

If I'm in a hurry, I'll lash the tiller amidships, put the engine in
gear just enough to ease the tension slightly, then haul from the bow.
Once we're *near* free, I'll walk back, kick the boat out of gear, then
finish up on the anchor. It's easy to bring an anchor in from about 2:1
if there's any wave action, which you'll have in those winds.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's NEW Pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

"Jere Lull" skrev i en meddelelse
...
In article ,
"Flemming Torp" fletopkanelbolle2rp.danmark wrote:

In the rare cases where we're leaving an anchorage in enough wind
to make hauling difficult, either Pat twiddles the motor controls
or I shift the rode to the stern and haul with the genny winch.

How do you handle this situation, if you're the only person on the
boat? I mean, how do you get the anchor in place with the chain/rode,
without damaging the freeboard?

Lead the free rode back to the aft fairlead and winch, release the
rode
at the bow & haul.

SNIP

If I'm in a hurry, I'll lash the tiller amidships, put the engine in
gear just enough to ease the tension slightly, then haul from the bow.
Once we're *near* free, I'll walk back, kick the boat out of gear,
then
finish up on the anchor. It's easy to bring an anchor in from about
2:1
if there's any wave action, which you'll have in those winds.

Thank you for your explanation. The last idea, I have tried with some
success ... but my back does not like it ...

Due to language problems on my part, I'm sure I fully understand your
first procedure, because, I don't know, what a fairled is ... Sorry. Is
it some kind of wheel og "thing", that keeps the rode/chain and the
anchor free of the side/stern? What I find pretty difficult is not to
scratch the glass fibre side (called freeboard?), when i use the winch
for the spinaker/genua. Hauling from the bow, the rode and the anchor
goes (almost) free of the sides of the boat.

--
Flemming Torp
Gimle/DEN-61

Sorry for misformulation ... see below ...

"Flemming Torp" fletopkanelbolle2rp.danmark skrev i en meddelelse
. ..

"Jere Lull" skrev i en meddelelse
...
In article ,
"Flemming Torp" fletopkanelbolle2rp.danmark wrote:

In the rare cases where we're leaving an anchorage in enough wind
to make hauling difficult, either Pat twiddles the motor controls
or I shift the rode to the stern and haul with the genny winch.

How do you handle this situation, if you're the only person on the
boat? I mean, how do you get the anchor in place with the
chain/rode,
without damaging the freeboard?

Lead the free rode back to the aft fairlead and winch, release the
rode
at the bow & haul.

SNIP

If I'm in a hurry, I'll lash the tiller amidships, put the engine in
gear just enough to ease the tension slightly, then haul from the
bow.
Once we're *near* free, I'll walk back, kick the boat out of gear,
then
finish up on the anchor. It's easy to bring an anchor in from about
2:1
if there's any wave action, which you'll have in those winds.

Thank you for your explanation. The last idea, I have tried with some
success ... but my back does not like it ...

Due to language problems on my part, I'm sure I fully understand your

Unfortunately, I've forgotten a not ... so the meaning is:

I'm *not* sure I fully understand your .... sorry for the confusion ...

first procedure, because, I don't know, what a fairled is ... Sorry.
Is it some kind of wheel og "thing", that keeps the rode/chain and the
anchor free of the side/stern? What I find pretty difficult is not to
scratch the glass fibre side (called freeboard?), when i use the winch
for the spinaker/genua. Hauling from the bow, the rode and the anchor
goes (almost) free of the sides of the boat.

--
Flemming Torp
Gimle/DEN-61

"Jere Lull" wrote:
Once we're *near* free, I'll walk back, kick the boat out of gear,
then
finish up on the anchor. It's easy to bring an anchor in from about
2:1
if there's any wave action, which you'll have in those winds.

"Flemming Torp" wrote:
Thank you for your explanation. The last idea, I have tried with some
success ... but my back does not like it ...

Don't use your back. Just take a wrap around the cleat or Sampson
post or whatever you have there. Take up the slack as the bow falls
and just hold the wrap as the bow rises. Let the boat do the back
breaking work. Once the anchor pops free, you can haul it in no prob.

Rick

skrev i en meddelelse
...
"Jere Lull" wrote:
Once we're *near* free, I'll walk back, kick the boat out of gear,
then
finish up on the anchor. It's easy to bring an anchor in from about
2:1
if there's any wave action, which you'll have in those winds.

"Flemming Torp" wrote:
Thank you for your explanation. The last idea, I have tried with some
success ... but my back does not like it ...

Don't use your back. Just take a wrap around the cleat or Sampson
post or whatever you have there. Take up the slack as the bow falls
and just hold the wrap as the bow rises. Let the boat do the back
breaking work. Once the anchor pops free, you can haul it in no prob.

Rick

Sounds good to me - Agree ... though: The situation, I have in mind is
something like wind/current from the bow corresponding to an effect of
some 20 knots or more ... If you are anchoring at - say - 8 meters, and
the engine helps you moving forward, then - even with a ratio of 2:1 -
you still have to haul in about 15 meters of chain and the anchor -
which under these circumstances often is "pretty much stuck" in the
bottom ... As of now, I don't have a windlass at the bow, and it is not
that easy - in my opinion - to wrap and unwrap the chain around the
cleat ... But I admit, that's what I've been doing for years ...

I do get your point about letting the waves and the movements of the
boat do a lot of the work, but my experience is, that it can still be
pretty hard work, before the chain is back in the "anchor room" (sorry
don't know the correct maritime term in English) and the anchor is
safely secured at the bow ... because, as soon the anchor slips the
bottom, the boat starts drifting backwards ... and at that point, I
still have some 8 meters of chain and an anchor to take care of (often
accompanied by a lot of unwanted "stuff"), and at the same time, I don't
have an awful lot of time to fix it all, before I have to be back at the
helm to move the boat away from the other fellows at the anchorage ...
That's why I'm looking into the possibility to install an electric
windlass with a remote controller ... I'm sure my back would appreciate
this investment ... some day ... and - in that case - I will feel much
more comfortable leaving before the fellows anchoring behind me ...

--
Flemming Torp
Gimle/DEN-61

"Flemming Torp" wrote:
even with a ratio of 2:1 -
you still have to haul in about 15 meters of chain and the anchor -

Yep. When it pops free, you have to be quick about it. Hand over hand,
leave it in a pile on the deck and tidy up later.

it is not
that easy - in my opinion - to wrap and unwrap the chain around the
cleat ...

Granted.... rope is easier.

as soon the anchor slips the
bottom, the boat starts drifting backwards ... and at that point, I
still have some 8 meters of chain and an anchor to take care of

Another tactic I've used in a tight situation, take in as much rode as
you can without breaking the anchor free. Then, veeery slowly, drive
over the top of it and just keep right on going, bouncing the anchor
along the bottom, being careful to not foul it in your prop, until you
have room to drift while you properly take care of the anchor.
Obviously, all sorts of things can go wrong doing this, but desperate
times call for desperate measures. I've resorted to it a number of
times when there was simply no other way.

Rick

skrev i en meddelelse
news
"Flemming Torp" wrote:
even with a ratio of 2:1 -
you still have to haul in about 15 meters of chain and the anchor -

Yep. When it pops free, you have to be quick about it. Hand over hand,
leave it in a pile on the deck and tidy up later.

it is not
that easy - in my opinion - to wrap and unwrap the chain around the
cleat ...

Granted.... rope is easier.

as soon the anchor slips the
bottom, the boat starts drifting backwards ... and at that point, I
still have some 8 meters of chain and an anchor to take care of

Another tactic I've used in a tight situation, take in as much rode as
you can without breaking the anchor free. Then, veeery slowly, drive
over the top of it and just keep right on going, bouncing the anchor
along the bottom, being careful to not foul it in your prop, until you
have room to drift while you properly take care of the anchor.
Obviously, all sorts of things can go wrong doing this, but desperate
times call for desperate measures. I've resorted to it a number of
times when there was simply no other way.

Rick

Been there, done that ... But I'm certainly not at all comfortable about
this procedure. But as you say ... "desperate times etc." ... And that
"trick" isn't exactly what Roger Long is recommending, I'm sure ... ;o)
....
Anyway, isn't it exactly in one of these situations Murphy shows up and
teaches us: "What can go wrong ... will"???
I'm afraid it is not a question of if ... but when ... hasn't happend
yet ... but ...

--
Flemming Torp
Gimle/DEN-61

In article ,
"Flemming Torp" fletopkanelbolle2rp.danmark wrote:

I do get your point about letting the waves and the movements of the
boat do a lot of the work, but my experience is, that it can still be
pretty hard work, before the chain is back in the "anchor room" (sorry
don't know the correct maritime term in English) and the anchor is
safely secured at the bow ... because, as soon the anchor slips the
bottom, the boat starts drifting backwards ... and at that point, I
still have some 8 meters of chain and an anchor to take care of (often
accompanied by a lot of unwanted "stuff"), and at the same time, I don't
have an awful lot of time to fix it all, before I have to be back at the
helm to move the boat away from the other fellows at the anchorage ...
That's why I'm looking into the possibility to install an electric
windlass with a remote controller ... I'm sure my back would appreciate
this investment ... some day ... and - in that case - I will feel much
more comfortable leaving before the fellows anchoring behind me ...

BTW, I wasn't saying not to get and use a windlass if your circumstances
warrant it. I'm just offering some techniques I use to protect my bad
back.

But, in blowy conditions, the wave action will pull the anchor
effectively if you're up close enough to the anchor. Give the waves time
to do the work.

Walking back to the cockpit will add about double your weight in hauling
effort. (Useful when hauling a deeply-set anchor even when it's not
blowy.)

If you haven't hauled enough rode, the wave action will slack the chain
up so you can haul in some more every once in a while. No need to rush
as long as the anchor's still set; you're not going anywhere.

Once it breaks free, haul in a few feet, cleat, then tend to the boat
until in open water. Again, no rush; just enough speed for steerage.

Notice how often "no rush" has come up in this thread?

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's NEW Pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

"Jere Lull" skrev i en meddelelse
...
In article ,
"Flemming Torp" fletopkanelbolle2rp.danmark wrote:

I do get your point about letting the waves and the movements of the
boat do a lot of the work, but my experience is, that it can still be
pretty hard work,
SNIP

BTW, I wasn't saying not to get and use a windlass if your
circumstances
warrant it. I'm just offering some techniques I use to protect my bad
back.

I think I was talking to my wife and to myself ... ;o) ...

But, in blowy conditions, the wave action will pull the anchor
effectively if you're up close enough to the anchor. Give the waves
time
to do the work.

Walking back to the cockpit will add about double your weight in
hauling
effort. (Useful when hauling a deeply-set anchor even when it's not
blowy.)

This is very, very true, as I'm in no way a "light weight" guy ...

If you haven't hauled enough rode, the wave action will slack the
chain
up so you can haul in some more every once in a while. No need to rush
as long as the anchor's still set; you're not going anywhere.

Once it breaks free, haul in a few feet, cleat, then tend to the boat
until in open water. Again, no rush; just enough speed for steerage.

What I normally try to do is - if (and only then) I'm under some
"pressure" - to draw so much of the rode into the boat, that I have the
anchor hanging from the bow so I can see it, i.e. a little less down,
than the bottom of the keel - in my case about two meters (6½ - 7 feet)
in total and as fast as possible - but slowly/carefully, yes! - turn 180
degrees, i.e. going "downwind" - and then - without the engine in gear
(or if it is blowing a lot even in reverese, but not more RPMs than the
boat will still go very slowly forward and with the tiller controlled by
the auto pilot) - take care of the rode/chain and the anchor on the deck
and the "mess" ... provided there are no obstacles in front of you, on
the course of course ...

But i still admit, I'm not too comfortable about it ... as KLC
indicates: "Murphy" may have placed something just in front of you ...
but my reasoning is, that if the anchor is above the bottom of the keel,
the problem may not be that serious - unless of course the anchor grabs
a cable/line or the like, makes "injuries" on the front of the boat or
simply "disappears"(!) ... I have in fact seen that once on a pretty
large motor sailor ... suddenly, the guy at the bow was just starring at
the chain ... no anchor ... I don't know what actually happend, but they
were sailing forward with the anchor hanging from the bow ...

Notice how often "no rush" has come up in this thread?

Yes, and I fully agree ... you must try to be in full controll all the
time ... that is why, I would normally wait until the boats behind me
has left, and then there is room for a "no rush" procedure, as you will
normally have the wind from the front ... but as single sailor anchoring
in 20 knots wind or more, I would still like to have an electric
windlass in the front of the boat ... with a remote control ... so the
chain and anchor without problems finds their proper places when I push
the "up-bottom" ... I like the concept ... the brochures are
attractive - don't know if it works in the real world ...

--
Flemming Torp
Gimle/DEN-61