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Keith
 
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Default Hull Blisters

One more... I used this and it worked great. http://www.hotvac.com/ I've
posted the summary a few times of all the work, but I'll post it again if
anyone's interested.

"Jere Lull" wrote in message
...
Parallax wrote:

I've dealt with hull blisters and have finally decided that they are
normally no big deal. I have never heard of hull failure from them
and they seem to be simply a cosmetic problem. As far as drag goes,
my fixed prop causes more drag. However, some ppl really hate em and
go so far as to PEEEEEEEEELLLL their gelcoat (sounds really painful)
dry the matting and re-gelcoat. I call this the Peel 'n Pray method
cuz most offen the blisters return. Its just too hard to remove all
the water from the matting even with heaters n such.
Once, I took an electric heat gun and applied it about 4" from a
blister (through the gelcoat)and was amazed at how much water came out
of the blister (This was after 2 months of drying). Clearly, passive
drying dont work.

SO: Useless idea #3727

Peel only in narrow strips in a grid pattern to allow moisture to exit
and apply heat to the grid squares. However, heating the glass is
inefficient when you really want to heat the water. Instead, use
microwaves which couple to polar molecules such as water and dont
couple too well to the glass or resin (ie, you only heat the water).
You could measure the microwave intensity inside the boat at different
places as a function of time to determine dryness. The moisture would
attenuate the waves and a dry hull would not.


Gosh, you have a LOT of ideas.....

Because I think microwaves belong a long distance from people, I prefer
the methods used 'round here. ALL depend upon a dry bilge, since water
sitting in the bilge will keep the glass wet. The rankings are
increasing level of severity.

1) Plastic draped over the hull to keep new water away.
2) A 100 watt bulb in the mostly-sealed cabin.
3) A dehumidifier in the mostly-sealed cabin, draining through an open
through hull.
4) Plastic to the ground, a space heater under the hull
5) Plastic and a spacer taped closely to the hull and a vacuum pulled.

Thus, I think #3727 should be filed as useless.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/



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Parallax
 
Posts: n/a
Default Hull Blisters

"Keith" wrote in message ...
One more... I used this and it worked great. http://www.hotvac.com/ I've
posted the summary a few times of all the work, but I'll post it again if
anyone's interested.

"Jere Lull" wrote in message
...
Parallax wrote:

I've dealt with hull blisters and have finally decided that they are
normally no big deal. I have never heard of hull failure from them
and they seem to be simply a cosmetic problem. As far as drag goes,
my fixed prop causes more drag. However, some ppl really hate em and
go so far as to PEEEEEEEEELLLL their gelcoat (sounds really painful)
dry the matting and re-gelcoat. I call this the Peel 'n Pray method
cuz most offen the blisters return. Its just too hard to remove all
the water from the matting even with heaters n such.
Once, I took an electric heat gun and applied it about 4" from a
blister (through the gelcoat)and was amazed at how much water came out
of the blister (This was after 2 months of drying). Clearly, passive
drying dont work.

SO: Useless idea #3727

Peel only in narrow strips in a grid pattern to allow moisture to exit
and apply heat to the grid squares. However, heating the glass is
inefficient when you really want to heat the water. Instead, use
microwaves which couple to polar molecules such as water and dont
couple too well to the glass or resin (ie, you only heat the water).
You could measure the microwave intensity inside the boat at different
places as a function of time to determine dryness. The moisture would
attenuate the waves and a dry hull would not.


Gosh, you have a LOT of ideas.....

Because I think microwaves belong a long distance from people, I prefer
the methods used 'round here. ALL depend upon a dry bilge, since water
sitting in the bilge will keep the glass wet. The rankings are
increasing level of severity.

1) Plastic draped over the hull to keep new water away.
2) A 100 watt bulb in the mostly-sealed cabin.
3) A dehumidifier in the mostly-sealed cabin, draining through an open
through hull.
4) Plastic to the ground, a space heater under the hull
5) Plastic and a spacer taped closely to the hull and a vacuum pulled.

Thus, I think #3727 should be filed as useless.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/


Has anybody ever seen a case of hull failure due to blisters? I have
never heard of such.



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Jere Lull
 
Posts: n/a
Default Hull Blisters

Parallax wrote:

Has anybody ever seen a case of hull failure due to blisters? I have
never heard of such.


I heard one story, but there were so many "heard it from"s that it could
well be an urban (nautical?) legend.

As I recall, there are some very close approximations on Dave Pascoe's
site..... http://www.yachtsurvey.com/blisters.htm On the main site, I
believe I saw a disintegrated powerboat that wasn't exactly blisters,
but was a close relative. Could also have been in one of the BOAT/U.S.
publications.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

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