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Default A Call To Arms (or, getting the heck out of Dodge, revisited)

Why are you moving the exhaust from the stern to the side? Apart from
moving the fumes closer to the cockpit, waterback up when heeled becomes
more likely. You weren't making a lot of progress motoring in bad weather
on your trip. If you ever got trapped against a lee shore by strong winds,
motor sailing might be the only thing that got you off. You could also be
fighting enough wind that you were heeled nearly to sailing angles under
bare poles (been there, done that).

If water back up through the stern exhaust line is the motivation, you are
still going to need just as high a loop, or higher, with a side exhaust.

If you want to cut more holes in the hull at this point, I would add a
second water intake on the other side so you'll have the option of powering
heeled on each side without losing cooling. This can also important for
getting ungrounded as you learned. A second strainer in the alternate line
would really set you up.

BTW take a look at this picture.

http://www.justpickone.org/skip/gall...40&sta rt=126

Note the short tail on the knot and the lack of whipping. This knot is all
that keeps the jib from unrolling unless you go forward to put a tie on it
as you should when the boat is unattended. Imagine the chaos of your Genoa
going "WHUMPH" in the middle of your last adventure and having to then lower
it in the dark and stow it on deck. This knot should have a nice long tail
with a proper whipping, not burning, to provide a stiff end that will resist
pulling through. You can see that the soft end of this one is close to
being able to pop through under strain. I know the whipping may have
disappeared in excitement but it was just one tough night and you want to be
prepared for much more. Renew this knot often. These kinds of little
details often have big consequences.

--
Roger Long


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Default A Call To Arms (or, getting the heck out of Dodge, revisited)


"Roger Long" wrote in message
...

Note the short tail on the knot and the lack of whipping. This knot is
all that keeps the jib from unrolling unless you go forward to put a tie
on it as you should when the boat is unattended. Imagine the chaos of
your Genoa going "WHUMPH" in the middle of your last adventure and having
to then lower it in the dark and stow it on deck. This knot should have a
nice long tail with a proper whipping, not burning, to provide a stiff end
that will resist pulling through. You can see that the soft end of this
one is close to being able to pop through under strain. I know the
whipping may have disappeared in excitement but it was just one tough
night and you want to be prepared for much more. Renew this knot often.
These kinds of little details often have big consequences.

--
Roger Long


Roger,

I agree completely with you about the side exhaust -- I would rather see it
exiting at the transom, but above the waterline.

Regarding the roller furler -- in every installation I've seen, with the
jib/genny completely unfurled, there are still several winds around the
furler drum, making it very unlikely that the stopper knot would ever "pull
through" even if it were to untie itself. Nevertheless, I would like to see
at least half an inch of tail on that stopper.


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Default A Call To Arms (or, getting the heck out of Dodge, revisited)


"KLC Lewis" wrote

Regarding the roller furler -- in every installation I've seen, with the
jib/genny completely unfurled, there are still several winds around the
furler drum, making it very unlikely that the stopper knot would ever
"pull through" even if it were to untie itself. Nevertheless, I would like
to see at least half an inch of tail on that stopper.


That's another thing to note in the picture.

I've seem several accidental unfurls on other boats. It really makes a mess
when it happens at the dock in a strong wind.


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Default A Call To Arms (or, getting the heck out of Dodge, revisited)

On Feb 18, 5:30 am, "Roger Long" wrote:
....
I've seem several accidental unfurls on other boats. It really makes a mess
when it happens at the dock in a strong wind.


Me too! A sister ship of ours was lost when her jib partially
unrolled at anchor causing her drag onto a sea wall. I see lots of
roller sails destroyed by being left up at the dock. While a sun
cover on a rolled jib reduces the damage caused by the sun it doesn't
stop it. Also, as the stitching goes parts of the sail or cover may
get loose and flog. And, the sheets take damage from the sun. And,
everything gets dirty. And, and, and... Maybe these things are worse
here in the tropics where we have lots of sun and wind, but it is
better for everything if the sails get properly stowed when not in
use. It makes me sad to see sails that have been used only lightly
ruined because their owners have failed to stow them correctly.

-- Tom.

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Default A Call To Arms (or, getting the heck out of Dodge, revisited)


wrote in message
oups.com...
On Feb 18, 5:30 am, "Roger Long" wrote:
...
I've seem several accidental unfurls on other boats. It really makes a
mess
when it happens at the dock in a strong wind.


Me too! A sister ship of ours was lost when her jib partially
unrolled at anchor causing her drag onto a sea wall. I see lots of
roller sails destroyed by being left up at the dock. While a sun
cover on a rolled jib reduces the damage caused by the sun it doesn't
stop it. Also, as the stitching goes parts of the sail or cover may
get loose and flog. And, the sheets take damage from the sun. And,
everything gets dirty. And, and, and... Maybe these things are worse
here in the tropics where we have lots of sun and wind, but it is
better for everything if the sails get properly stowed when not in
use. It makes me sad to see sails that have been used only lightly
ruined because their owners have failed to stow them correctly.

-- Tom.


Am I the only roller-furler owner who locks the furler upon securing the
boat at the dock? I can't say that my furler CAN'T unfurl, but it would have
to break the locking line in order to do so.




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Default A Call To Arms (or, getting the heck out of Dodge, revisited)

On Feb 18, 9:36 am, "KLC Lewis" wrote:
Am I the only roller-furler owner who locks the furler upon securing the
boat at the dock? I can't say that my furler CAN'T unfurl, but it would have
to break the locking line in order to do so.


You also need to insure that the sail is tightly rolled. In the case
that I cited where the boat was lost the sail deployed because it was
too loosely furled not because the drum came free.

-- Tom.


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Default A Call To Arms (or, getting the heck out of Dodge, revisited)


wrote in message
oups.com...
On Feb 18, 9:36 am, "KLC Lewis" wrote:
Am I the only roller-furler owner who locks the furler upon securing the
boat at the dock? I can't say that my furler CAN'T unfurl, but it would
have
to break the locking line in order to do so.


You also need to insure that the sail is tightly rolled. In the case
that I cited where the boat was lost the sail deployed because it was
too loosely furled not because the drum came free.

-- Tom.



Very much so. I furl tightly, with three turns of sheet around the furled
sail, sheets left slightly slack (not pulled tight) but not "loose." Then a
line from a pad-eye on deck (foredeck jackline attachment) to the tack of
the jib/genny, back to the other deck padeye on the other side. As with all
lines, checking for chafe regularly. The drum cannot turn, the sail is
unlikely to catch wind and pull loose.


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Default A Call To Arms (or, getting the heck out of Dodge, revisited)

On Feb 18, 4:30 am, "Roger Long" wrote:

Note the short tail on the knot and the lack of whipping. This knot is all
that keeps the jib from unrolling
--
Roger Long



Hi:
I am also surprised at the general condition of the bilge area. Note
the yellow crimp-on butt wire connector. I think an adhesive lined
shrink tube is preferred in that application. Add the lack of wire
fastening every 9". Also, the galvanized elbow (boats are not a
house), wire hose clamps, and of lesser concern the excessive tail on
the other hose clamps. Personally, I prefer no more than 3/4" tail on
hose clamps. Cant stand getting snagged on those tails. But that
requires measuring the hose OD then sizing the AWAB clamp. I have two
hose sizes on board: 1 ½" and ¾". Standardization makes sizing easy
and cheep. Reduces the number of part inventory.

In other words, what I saw indicated: 1) lack of understanding of
preferred/best practices or 2) lack of concern. Now take that attitude/
ability and apply it boat wide.

So what do you think:
A) Lackadaisical
B) Ignorant

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Default A Call To Arms (or, getting the heck out of Dodge, revisited)


"Bob" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Feb 18, 4:30 am, "Roger Long" wrote:

Note the short tail on the knot and the lack of whipping. This knot is
all
that keeps the jib from unrolling
--
Roger Long



Hi:
I am also surprised at the general condition of the bilge area. Note
the yellow crimp-on butt wire connector. I think an adhesive lined
shrink tube is preferred in that application. Add the lack of wire
fastening every 9". Also, the galvanized elbow (boats are not a
house), wire hose clamps, and of lesser concern the excessive tail on
the other hose clamps. Personally, I prefer no more than 3/4" tail on
hose clamps. Cant stand getting snagged on those tails. But that
requires measuring the hose OD then sizing the AWAB clamp. I have two
hose sizes on board: 1 ½" and ¾". Standardization makes sizing easy
and cheep. Reduces the number of part inventory.

In other words, what I saw indicated: 1) lack of understanding of
preferred/best practices or 2) lack of concern. Now take that attitude/
ability and apply it boat wide.

So what do you think:
A) Lackadaisical
B) Ignorant

Bob, I would add a third option, which I would have to vote for:

C) Improperly Advised


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