"NE Sailboat" wrote in message
news:reush.9981$pb7.5843@trndny09...
My thought .. the engine fits the stringers, and therefore it would be
easy
to take out and put back in.

So,, why not just get the engine rebuilt.

Can't you take it out, bring it to a rebuild place, get it all done over
with new this and new that .. then bring it back and put right back where
it
came from?


I have the 2QM15 and it still runs and starts well. But, if it failed I
would have the same decision to make.

I think that I would seriously think about installing a new fresh water
cooled engine with heat exchanger. My concern after 27 years would be with
corrosion of the block, and it is difficult to determine this. Maybe there
is a way once the engine has been torn down?

I think that if I was younger (your age), I might consider doing the rebuild
myself, but maybe not. These engines do have cylinder so no need for
reboring or oversize pistons etc.sleeves.

I would think that I would pay $10k for a new engine if a rebuild cost $6k.
But, if the rebuild could be done for say $3k, I would go that way. As a
comparison, I had a complete rebuild done on a used block on my old diesel
car - a 5 cyl MB 300D. It cost me C$7k which at the time was about US$5k and
this included removing the old engine and also installing a rebuilt turbo.
$6k for a 2 or 3 cyl Yanmar rebuild sounds like a lot!

In article . com,
"Bob" wrote:

Repower for the 21st century
Or
Rebuild a 1979 Yanmar 3QM30H (raw water cooled)?


We repowered when we got Xan. Am not likely to do that again. The costs
are about double the engine's, and the labor and time MUCH longer. At a
minimum, you'll need a new shaft and prop. [but you might want to
upgrade the prop anyway, as there have been some real improvements since
the raw-water Yanmars were made.]

A new 2GM20 will put out about the same power, perhaps more, and give
improved efficiency, but unless you're planning to keep the boat for 20
years, you won't realize much real benefit.

The Yanmars, old and new, are work horses. Ours has 1200 hours and about
all I need to do is change the oil and inspect the rest -- and keep the
fuel clean, the only problem we've had other than a plugged cooling line
at the inlet.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's NEW Pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

"Jere Lull" wrote

A new 2GM20 will put out about the same power, perhaps more

The new 2 cylinders are called 15 HP engines but it is the ratings that have
changed; not the engines. Our "20"QM is really a 15.


The Yanmars, old and new, are work horses. Ours has 1200 hours and about
all I need to do is change the oil and inspect the rest -- and keep the
fuel clean, the only problem we've had other than a plugged cooling line
at the inlet.


This is a universal sentiment among Yanmar owners. I've seldom heard a
point of view expressed so consistently about a type of machinery.

--
Roger Long

In article ,
"Roger Long" wrote:


"Jere Lull" wrote

A new 2GM20 will put out about the same power, perhaps more

The new 2 cylinders are called 15 HP engines but it is the ratings that have
changed; not the engines. Our "20"QM is really a 15.

Sister boats with the old raw water 3GMs max out no faster than us and
are usually a bit slower. They always burn more fuel.

You can't go just by the numbers, as the older engines were geared
higher. Faster shaft and prop, more drag, less effective power. We swing
a 16x10" 3-blade.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's NEW Pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

Jere Lull wrote:
You can't go just by the numbers, as the older engines were geared
higher. Faster shaft and prop, more drag, less effective power. We swing
a 16x10" 3-blade.

Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's NEW Pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/


Thanks Je

Very helpful information to chew. Your statment about owner earnings
compared to yard hourly rates is a very compelling concept. My earnings
come rather easily compared to what thoes hard working, knuckle bustin,
yard guys do daily.

You have detailed my nagging fear regarding "all the extras." I can see
how a new model repower just might start a cascade of events I am not
quite ready to handle.
Thanks again,
Bob

On Mon, 22 Jan 2007 09:09:08 GMT, Jere Lull wrote:

The Yanmars, old and new, are work horses. Ours has 1200 hours and about
all I need to do is change the oil and inspect the rest -- and keep the
fuel clean, the only problem we've had other than a plugged cooling line
at the inlet.

I have a Yanmar diesel on my primary genset. Almost 1500 hours in two
years, only failures have been the raw water pump and several
impellers. Fortunately that was covered under warranty.

Jere Lull wrote:
In article . com,
"Bob" wrote:

Repower for the 21st century
Or
Rebuild a 1979 Yanmar 3QM30H (raw water cooled)?


We repowered when we got Xan. Am not likely to do that again. The costs
are about double the engine's,

So if a new engine retail price is $8,000 your saying when it is all
over total cost is $16,000?

May I ask about your specfics?
Cost of engine?
How many hours did the yard do?
How many DIY hours?
Total cost after everthing?
Did you have a problem fitting new onto the foot print of the old?
Bob


and the labor and time MUCH longer.

Who gave the time estimate?
How much over was the time estimate?

At a minimum, you'll need a new shaft and prop. [but you might want to
upgrade the prop anyway, as there have been some real improvements since
the raw-water Yanmars were made.]

Yes, real improvments over stone axes.


The Yanmars, old and new, are work horses. Ours has 1200 hours and about
all I need to do is change the oil and inspect the rest -- and keep the
fuel clean, the only problem we've had other than a plugged cooling line
at the inlet.
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's NEW Pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/


Thank you Jere,
Bob

In article .com,
"Bob" wrote:

We repowered when we got Xan. Am not likely to do that again. The costs
are about double the engine's,

So if a new engine retail price is $8,000 your saying when it is all
over total cost is $16,000?

May I ask about your specfics?
Cost of engine?
Total cost after everthing?

In our case, $6k vs a bit over $12k, but that was 14 years ago.

How many hours did the yard do?
How many DIY hours?

All yard, as I didn't want to take 2 years to do it and knew I knew too
little. Truth be told, I take home more than their labor charge, and I
wanted to *sail*.

As I recall, about 1/2 or 1/3 of the extra was fittings, not labor.
Virtually everything needed replacing from battery cables and tank to
the bed, shaft and prop. A PO had gotten the new tank put in, so that
was one non-cost to us. New hoses, Racor, bigger through-hull and
cooling water filter, shift from 3/4" shaft to 1", larger exhaust &
water muffler, lots and lots of incidentals. Included the 50-hour
re-adjustments.

Did you have a problem fitting new onto the foot print of the old?

The old one had to go completely --tougher than expected-- and a new one
fabricated and glassed in. Work of art, BTW.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's NEW Pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 10:06:22 -0800, Bob wrote:

Let the debate begin........

Repower for the 21st century
Or
Rebuild a 1979 Yanmar 3QM30H (raw water cooled)?


I went the repower route on Far Cove (story is at
http://www.bcboatnet.org/Tech/engine/index.html )

There are SO many things apart from the engine itself to consider: exhaust
system. Control cables (mine broke just as I was replacing them!).
prop/shaft/stuffingbox. And so on.

I put in what was supposed to be "like for like" and still had to redo the
stringers twice, completely redo the exhaust, and so on. If I had gone the
rebuild route, I probably would have done the other upgrades as well.

Now, Far Cove was substantially underpowered with the original 23hp, so
the 26hp was a good upgrade. If the replacement was the same hp, I
probably would have just rebuilt.

druid

On Jan 31, 9:14 pm, druid wrote:

I went the repower route on Far Cove (story is athttp://www.bcboatnet.org/Tech/engine/index.html)

Cool... I love the web.


There are SO many things apart from the engine itself to consider: exhaust
system. Control cables (mine broke just as I was replacing them!).
prop/shaft/stuffingbox. And so on.

Humm, yes. this is what I want to avoid. Ive jut spent few months
rerouting wires and hoses. NOt fun and a bit distructive. I come from
the school of the "fewer holes in a boat the better."


I put in what was supposed to be "like for like" and still had to redo the
stringers twice,

Ugg(

completely redo the exhaust, and so on. If I had gone the
rebuild route, I probably would have done the other upgrades as well.
druid

With my repower I too will also replace the c-bearing, shaft, coupler,
exhaust list. Just seems the way to go on a 30 yo boat.
The reason I am so gun shy about a new engine is that I just finished
replacing the suystems on our homee built in 1905 by a family of
farmers. Every time I started a simple two day project it always
tumbled into a total gut. Talk about icebergs?!? As a result we now
have all new wiring-plumbing-roof and my crowning glory, a 6' x 6' x
55' moat surrounding the back half of the house complete with 4" perf
pipe adn sump pump. That all started with, "honey the basement wall is
really ugly. I want to paint it somthing pretty." Sure, I said. When
the backhoe showed up my wife freaked out. A year later........ the
wall was painted.

Again thank you for taking the time to reply and that web link.
Bob