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#1
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Larry,
How would you count a charge / discharge cycle according to this article? When I use my two paralleled AGM's to start my little 15 hp diesel, is that a cycle? I don't see how it could be since I sail nearly every day during the summer and my batteries ought to be nearly dead now. If the battery is good for 200 cycles and my draw down is only 10% (In reality, it's probably less than that since my engine lights of almost as quickly as a good car engine) can I expect to get closer to 2000 charging cycles? I feel even better about leaving my batteries in the boat now. Thanks for the article. -- Roger Long |
#2
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Roger Long wrote:
Larry, How would you count a charge / discharge cycle according to this article? When I use my two paralleled AGM's to start my little 15 hp diesel, is that a cycle? I don't see how it could be since I sail nearly every day during the summer and my batteries ought to be nearly dead now. If the battery is good for 200 cycles and my draw down is only 10% (In reality, it's probably less than that since my engine lights of almost as quickly as a good car engine) can I expect to get closer to 2000 charging cycles? I feel even better about leaving my batteries in the boat now. Thanks for the article. Roger, starting a 15 hp diesel probably takes less than 80 amps for 20 seconds. This is less than half an amp-hour, probably less than one percent of the battery's capacity. Mere noise in charge/discharge cycle space. Chuck ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#3
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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"Roger Long" wrote in
: How would you count a charge / discharge cycle according to this article? When I use my two paralleled AGM's to start my little 15 hp diesel, is that a cycle? I don't see how it could be since I sail nearly every day during the summer and my batteries ought to be nearly dead now. If the battery is good for 200 cycles and my draw down is only 10% (In reality, it's probably less than that since my engine lights of almost as quickly as a good car engine) can I expect to get closer to 2000 charging cycles? I believe he was referring to drawing down the battery in a deep discharge cycle, not just a burst of starter current. Hell, we'd have to put 4 batteries a year in my car if that were so...(c; A good diesel fires on the 2nd TDC it rolls over. When Dan had the old Hatteras 56, I told him I'd be afraid to jack over the 8v92TAs by hand as they would probably start as soon as something moved. Both those engines you just touched the starter and they popped up running...2-strokes, gotta love 'em. I think the 300 real cycles, using the batteries for lights and loads, then recharging them properly to full charge SLOWLY is quite realistic for lead acid AGMs or Gelcells. I just spent $70 putting 2 new 12AH AGMs in my dock scooter. It's like driving a hot rod! Even at full throttle, the status light stays green as soon as it comes up to speed. The acid soaked gauze gets used up in about 200 cycles in the scooter....less than a year the way I use it all summer. There were very important graphs to study in this report that boaters need to see, especially about charging.... I found the book for free on his website: http://www.buchmann.ca/toc.asp In figure 4-3 on pdf page 61, notice how the 3-stage charging is measured in HOURS, not running the diesel for 30 minutes like boaters dream of. Notice how the current drops very rapidly near the start of the charge, not when the charge is near complete. My assertion of why it's stupid to put a 140 amp alternator on a little sailboat diesel is obvious. The accompanying text: "A multi-stage charger applies constant-current charge, topping charge and float charge (see Figure 4-3). During the constant current charge, the battery charges to 70 percent in about five hours; the remaining 30 percent is completed by the slow topping charge. The topping charge lasts another five hours and is essential for the well-being of the battery. This can be compared to a little rest after a good meal before resuming work. If the battery is not completely saturated, the SLA will eventually lose its ability to accept a full charge and the performance of the battery is reduced. The third stage is the float charge, which compensates for the self-discharge after the battery has been fully charged." See the time in HOURS, not MINUTES? He's especially talking about AGM and Gelcell batteries boaters think are superbatteries because of the awful prices. So, you're looking at charging them for several hours, not just when the charging voltage pops up as is so often the case in a boat trying to get that diesel shut down ASAP...shortening battery life in the process by first overcharging, then not giving the chemistry TIME to charge the cells. To quote the text, again: "The charge algorithm for lead acid batteries differs from nickel-based chemistry in that voltage limiting rather than current limiting is used. Charge time of a sealed lead acid (SLA) is 12 to 16 hours. With higher charge currents and multi-stage charge methods, charge time can be reduced to 10 hours or less. SLAs cannot be fully charged as quickly as nickel-based systems." 10 HOURS, not 30 minutes. Most sailboat captains would have a heart attack....(c; Of course, if you're headed back to the dock to plug in the little 10A chargers...or a mooring with big solar panels or wind charger...that's exactly what happens...HOURS. I still prefer liquid electrolyte to gells and wicks. I can charge them to a full charge and replace any electrolyte that vents. I can also adjust their specific gravity to balance the cells over time to maximize life. "Maintenance Free" just means you can't help them, once they start down. Larry -- Why is it, in any city, all traffic lights act as if they have rotary timers in them, like they did in 1955, and are all set to create maximum inconvenience and block traffic movement, entirely? |
#4
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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The battery power required to start the engine raises a question for me. I
have a Universal 18 in my boat. I have not tried to manually crank it by attaching a handle to the crank shaft, but I have been told that it can be done by hammering a wrench socket onto the shaft, and cranking it with a ratchet. It seems like this would be a good way to conserve battery power if there were a non-destructive way to manually crank the engine. Is there some sort of racheted, removable socket that would fit on the shaft to enable a manual crank, sort of like automobile crank handles at the turn of the century? A little elbow grease might save a tree in the long run. "Larry" wrote in message ... "Roger Long" wrote in : How would you count a charge / discharge cycle according to this article? When I use my two paralleled AGM's to start my little 15 hp diesel, is that a cycle? I don't see how it could be since I sail nearly every day during the summer and my batteries ought to be nearly dead now. If the battery is good for 200 cycles and my draw down is only 10% (In reality, it's probably less than that since my engine lights of almost as quickly as a good car engine) can I expect to get closer to 2000 charging cycles? I believe he was referring to drawing down the battery in a deep discharge cycle, not just a burst of starter current. Hell, we'd have to put 4 batteries a year in my car if that were so...(c; A good diesel fires on the 2nd TDC it rolls over. When Dan had the old Hatteras 56, I told him I'd be afraid to jack over the 8v92TAs by hand as they would probably start as soon as something moved. Both those engines you just touched the starter and they popped up running...2-strokes, gotta love 'em. I think the 300 real cycles, using the batteries for lights and loads, then recharging them properly to full charge SLOWLY is quite realistic for lead acid AGMs or Gelcells. I just spent $70 putting 2 new 12AH AGMs in my dock scooter. It's like driving a hot rod! Even at full throttle, the status light stays green as soon as it comes up to speed. The acid soaked gauze gets used up in about 200 cycles in the scooter....less than a year the way I use it all summer. There were very important graphs to study in this report that boaters need to see, especially about charging.... I found the book for free on his website: http://www.buchmann.ca/toc.asp In figure 4-3 on pdf page 61, notice how the 3-stage charging is measured in HOURS, not running the diesel for 30 minutes like boaters dream of. Notice how the current drops very rapidly near the start of the charge, not when the charge is near complete. My assertion of why it's stupid to put a 140 amp alternator on a little sailboat diesel is obvious. The accompanying text: "A multi-stage charger applies constant-current charge, topping charge and float charge (see Figure 4-3). During the constant current charge, the battery charges to 70 percent in about five hours; the remaining 30 percent is completed by the slow topping charge. The topping charge lasts another five hours and is essential for the well-being of the battery. This can be compared to a little rest after a good meal before resuming work. If the battery is not completely saturated, the SLA will eventually lose its ability to accept a full charge and the performance of the battery is reduced. The third stage is the float charge, which compensates for the self-discharge after the battery has been fully charged." See the time in HOURS, not MINUTES? He's especially talking about AGM and Gelcell batteries boaters think are superbatteries because of the awful prices. So, you're looking at charging them for several hours, not just when the charging voltage pops up as is so often the case in a boat trying to get that diesel shut down ASAP...shortening battery life in the process by first overcharging, then not giving the chemistry TIME to charge the cells. To quote the text, again: "The charge algorithm for lead acid batteries differs from nickel-based chemistry in that voltage limiting rather than current limiting is used. Charge time of a sealed lead acid (SLA) is 12 to 16 hours. With higher charge currents and multi-stage charge methods, charge time can be reduced to 10 hours or less. SLAs cannot be fully charged as quickly as nickel-based systems." 10 HOURS, not 30 minutes. Most sailboat captains would have a heart attack....(c; Of course, if you're headed back to the dock to plug in the little 10A chargers...or a mooring with big solar panels or wind charger...that's exactly what happens...HOURS. I still prefer liquid electrolyte to gells and wicks. I can charge them to a full charge and replace any electrolyte that vents. I can also adjust their specific gravity to balance the cells over time to maximize life. "Maintenance Free" just means you can't help them, once they start down. Larry -- Why is it, in any city, all traffic lights act as if they have rotary timers in them, like they did in 1955, and are all set to create maximum inconvenience and block traffic movement, entirely? |
#5
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Larry wrote:
Snip In figure 4-3 on pdf page 61, notice how the 3-stage charging is measured in HOURS, not running the diesel for 30 minutes like boaters dream of. Notice how the current drops very rapidly near the start of the charge, not when the charge is near complete. My assertion of why it's stupid to put a 140 amp alternator on a little sailboat diesel is obvious. Snip In fairness, typical automotive chargers are not rated for use with the aggressive, constant-current charging cycles used in popular marine "smart chargers". Replacing the stock alternator with a higher-rated one when switching to a smart charger is not a bad idea, providing engine, pulleys, and belts are also willing. I agree that 30 minutes is not going to restore 50% of capacity on 200 Ah deep-cycle lead acid batteries. With a 140 amp alternator, gasses, venting, etc., permitting, it would take more than an hour. Hard to generalize, but with an adequate alternator, belt, engine speed and charger, it is heat and gassing that ultimately limit the rate at which you can jam amp-hours into a storage battery, and the better smart chargers monitor terminal temperature and fold back current to try to keep things intact. Haven't heard many horror stories of smart chargers destroying batteries. Remember too, even though you recover most of the lost charge quickly through constant-current charging, that last 10-15% is what will take hours to accomplish under typical voltage-limited charging, even with smart chargers. So the author quoted is perhaps overconcise in his statements. Don't sell the smart chargers too short, Larry! ;-) Chuck ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
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