Anyone have any (hopefully useful) advice on how to maintain and/or lubricate
(if needed) Marelon seacocks? Do they require lubrication like bronze
seacocks?

Good question, to which I haven't really found a workable answer.

All of my seacocks are Marelon and the tag on the valve handle recommends
lubrication (I think) every six month.

I haven't figured out, away to do this with the boat in the water..

With the old bronze seacocks, there was a drain plug where you could install
a grease zerk.. Nothing like that on these..

This is not to say that I'm not happy with my Marelon valves. I operate them
frequently (some several times a day, when I use the head) and although the
seam stiff, they still work smoothly..

And no disimilar metals problems to worry about. )))

As far as the type of lubricate, I would have to check the recommendations
on one of those paper tags. Later

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Anyone have any (hopefully useful) advice on how to maintain and/or
lubricate
(if needed) Marelon seacocks? Do they require lubrication like bronze
seacocks? BRBR

Just received this from "Forespar:"



Resources - Tech Tips

Marelon® - Marine Grade Plumbing Systems
Valve Lubrication:
As a follow up to previous Tech Tips; it is important to know that while
Marelon®Â* fixings are corrosion resistant, they do require twice yearly
lubrication maintenance. These valves should be activated on a regular
schedule. The handle should be moved throughout the open/close path every
thirty days. Leaving a valve open or closed without moving the handle can cause
freeze-up. This is true of any valve, including bronze. The law of nature is
"use it or loose it".

To lubricate ball valves and seacocks while the boat is in the water you must:
1. Close valve.
2. Remove hose from tailpipe.
3. Remove remaining water from valve/tailpipe.
4. Swab waterproof grease (water pump grease, winch grease) or
LanoCoteâ„¢, generously, on ball.
5. Reattach hose, checking for fatigue and rusted hose clamps.
6. Activate valve a few times. When boat is hauled, you can perform steps
4-6 from outside the hull to lubricate opposite side of ball and seals.

There you go!! Answer from the OEM tech support. (as impractical as it may
be)

Now let's be realistic; How many boat owners will crawl inside their lockers
or down into the bilges to remove that expensive hose (double clamped) from
the valve every 6 months??

Most likely the hose will be damaged or distroyed by doing this..

I don't recommend messing with a good tight hose connection until it is time
to replace the hose.

It would have been much easier if they had put a threaded boss and grease
passage in the valve body.. 3 minute job to lub these valves.

Here is another thought.. Why not use UHMW plastic for the ball and Marelon
for the body.. UHMW is supper slick and tough. You can hardly scratch it on
a belt sander. The will even make it with a molded in lubricate.

Come on Forespar. Get real and get with modern technology!!


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

All the valves on our boat are closed when we are not on board.

We hang the ignition key on the engine intake at the end of the day to mark
it closed. We worked diligently last winter to reduce through hull fittings
from 23 to 9.

I know of to many boats that sank at the dock because the plumbing failed.
Just this year a Gulfstar 50 went down in its slip where we haul. The
engine intake hose burst, what a mess.

We have a friend that asked if we trust our plumbing and why bother to close
everything. His boat is a beautiful new Moody but it has 33 through hulls
and would take half a day to open and close them all. Builders do this
rather then taking the time to build water chests, use stand pipes, and
consolidating intakes. It's real quick and easy to drill a hole and slap a
valve in but it's not very safe.

My 2 cents.

Bryan

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
...
Steve wrote:
Now let's be realistic; How many boat owners will crawl inside their
lockers
or down into the bilges to remove that expensive hose (double clamped)
from
the valve every 6 months??

If you're gonna be realistic, let's be totally realistic: how many boat
owners ever crawl inside lockers or down into the bilges even to check
the condition of their hose connections and clamps?

Besides, seacocks shouldn't BE inside and locker or down in
bilges...they should be in readily accessible locations so they can be
kept closed except when in use...or at least accessible enough to make
it relatively easy to keep 'em closed when no one is aboard.


Come on Forespar. Get real and get with modern technology!!

Instead of beating up Forespar, go after the boat builders who put
seacocks in inaccessible locations and owners who prob'ly shouldn't even
own boats in the first place....like the guy who emailed me that his
toilet wouldn't bring in any flush water the first weekend after spring
launch and wanted to know if it was possible that the yard had closed
the seacock. "It's possible," I replied, "Have you checked to see?"
"No," he answered, "I don't know where it is." "How long have you owned
this boat," I asked. "Three years."

Somehow I don't think any improvements in seacock lubrication technology
would make any difference to him.

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

On Sun, 7 Sep 2003 10:01:35 -0400, "Bryan B"
wrote:

snip
His boat is a beautiful new Moody but it has 33 through hulls

This is insane.....
---
Max and Hillary, sitting in a tree; Cay-eye-es-es-eye-en-gee.

"IamAeolus" wrote in message
...
Anyone have any (hopefully useful) advice on how to maintain and/or
lubricate
(if needed) Marelon seacocks? Do they require lubrication like bronze
seacocks?

In reading the replies, I wondered if there is a type of water soluble
lubricant (similar to that used in marine toilets) that could be poured into
thru hull drains with valve closed. Then by opening and closing valve
several times quickly while draining, the lubricant would coat valve
internals as it passes through. May be better than nothing until the boat is
hauled.

This could apply to Marelon or Bronze valves.

Famous Amos Moses® wrote:

On Sun, 7 Sep 2003 10:01:35 -0400, "Bryan B"
wrote:

snip


His boat is a beautiful new Moody but it has 33 through hulls



This is insane.....

Seconded!

And I thought WE might have too many: 5......

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

In reading the replies, I wondered if there is a type of water soluble
lubricant (similar to that used in marine toilets) that could be poured into
thru hull drains with valve closed. Then by opening and closing valve
several times quickly while draining, the lubricant would coat valve
internals as it passes through. May be better than nothing until the boat is
hauled.

'Twould be next to worthless, Graham...just as they are in toilets. You
don't want a thin lubricant, you want a thick one that resists
dissolving in water, even if it is technically considered water soluble.
That's why teflon grease is the lubricant of choice in submersable pumps
and used by marine toilet mfrs...it lasts a while.

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html