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#1
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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We have a Volvo MD22L engine equipped with a sail drive.
The hull and prop are "supposed to be" protected with: 1) A Large Zinc block attached to the hull just forward of the sail drive and electrically connected to the engine block through the hull. 2) Round Zinc around the propellor shaft - attached to the sail drive 3) 3 small Zincs attached directly to the propellor The problem is that the 3 small zincs erode rapidly - sometimes within 2 months - and sometimes within 4 months...no regular pattern. The other zincs (1 and 2) look brand new after 2 years in the water and obviously do not protect the propellor at all. When the all the zincs were installed at the last haul-out 2 years ago I made sure they were free of any surface oxidation. I have also installed a Galvanic Isolator in an attempt to alleviate the problem - and the boat has been inspected for any stray currents and none found by the Marina staff. The boat next two ours is a derilict without any maintenance whatsoever - but is is also hoohed up to the same shorepower circuit as ours. The Marina staff dioes not think that is the culprit. Any suggestions? cvj |
#2
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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claus wrote:
We have a Volvo MD22L engine equipped with a sail drive. The hull and prop are "supposed to be" protected with: 1) A Large Zinc block attached to the hull just forward of the sail drive and electrically connected to the engine block through the hull. 2) Round Zinc around the propellor shaft - attached to the sail drive 3) 3 small Zincs attached directly to the propellor The problem is that the 3 small zincs erode rapidly - sometimes within 2 months - and sometimes within 4 months...no regular pattern. The other zincs (1 and 2) look brand new after 2 years in the water and obviously do not protect the propellor at all. When the all the zincs were installed at the last haul-out 2 years ago I made sure they were free of any surface oxidation. I have also installed a Galvanic Isolator in an attempt to alleviate the problem - and the boat has been inspected for any stray currents and none found by the Marina staff. The boat next two ours is a derilict without any maintenance whatsoever - but is is also hoohed up to the same shorepower circuit as ours. The Marina staff dioes not think that is the culprit. Any suggestions? cvj I had the same engine many years ago. At that time I was amazed to discover the prop was made of cast iron. Could that have anything to do with the problem? I am no expert on galvanic corrosion, but could it be that zinc and cast iron should not be in direct contact with each other? |
#3
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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The (folding) prop on our boat is made of Bronze.
"Dennis Pogson" wrote in message ... claus wrote: We have a Volvo MD22L engine equipped with a sail drive. The hull and prop are "supposed to be" protected with: 1) A Large Zinc block attached to the hull just forward of the sail drive and electrically connected to the engine block through the hull. 2) Round Zinc around the propellor shaft - attached to the sail drive 3) 3 small Zincs attached directly to the propellor The problem is that the 3 small zincs erode rapidly - sometimes within 2 months - and sometimes within 4 months...no regular pattern. The other zincs (1 and 2) look brand new after 2 years in the water and obviously do not protect the propellor at all. When the all the zincs were installed at the last haul-out 2 years ago I made sure they were free of any surface oxidation. I have also installed a Galvanic Isolator in an attempt to alleviate the problem - and the boat has been inspected for any stray currents and none found by the Marina staff. The boat next two ours is a derilict without any maintenance whatsoever - but is is also hoohed up to the same shorepower circuit as ours. The Marina staff dioes not think that is the culprit. Any suggestions? cvj I had the same engine many years ago. At that time I was amazed to discover the prop was made of cast iron. Could that have anything to do with the problem? I am no expert on galvanic corrosion, but could it be that zinc and cast iron should not be in direct contact with each other? |
#4
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"claus" wrote
The (folding) prop on our boat is made of Bronze. Are you trying to protect the prop or are you trying to protect something else from being corroded by the prop? Bronze is way up on the cathodic end of the galvanic scale, meaning it *should* corrode zinc fairly rapidly. And of course it will also corrode other anodic metals like aluminum or iron if there's no zinc handy. What other metals are involved? Is there a problem other than the prop zincs eroding? |
#5
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No - nothing else is corroding. The bronze sea-cocks are all healthy - they
are painted over and the diver checks them every 2 months - whenever the 3 small prop zincs are replaced. After reading all the very helpful responses to my initial post I am now leaning towards the theory that the prop is somehow electrically isolated from the engine block (and the large zinc)- as unlikely as that seems. However, I won't know until the next haul-out when it can be checked with a meter. BTW the large zinc had some sea growth on the surface at the last dive inspection - so it is not protecting anything... "Ernest Scribbler" wrote in message ... "claus" wrote The (folding) prop on our boat is made of Bronze. Are you trying to protect the prop or are you trying to protect something else from being corroded by the prop? Bronze is way up on the cathodic end of the galvanic scale, meaning it *should* corrode zinc fairly rapidly. And of course it will also corrode other anodic metals like aluminum or iron if there's no zinc handy. What other metals are involved? Is there a problem other than the prop zincs eroding? |
#6
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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"claus" wrote in
: After reading all the very helpful responses to my initial post I am now leaning towards the theory that the prop is somehow electrically isolated from the engine block (and the large zinc)- as unlikely as that seems. However, I won't know until the next haul-out when it can be checked with a meter. All it needs is a rubber damper to isolate it, electrically...... -- There's amazing intelligence in the Universe. You can tell because none of them ever called Earth. |
#7
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"claus" wrote
I am now leaning towards the theory that the prop is somehow electrically isolated from the engine block (and the large zinc)- That may well be the case, but it's not necessarily a bad thing. If you haven't done so already, you might want to try to find out if it's that way by design. Perhaps frequent relpacement of prop zincs is the price of admission for your particular unit? There generally are no easy solutions to galvanic corrosion, only trade-offs. For example, if you electrically connect your prop to your drive unit, you might be encouraging its galvanic currents to attack a nearby aluminum housing rather than a more distant sacrificial anode. |
#8
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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claus wrote:
We have a Volvo MD22L engine equipped with a sail drive. The hull and prop are "supposed to be" protected with: 1) A Large Zinc block attached to the hull just forward of the sail drive and electrically connected to the engine block through the hull. 2) Round Zinc around the propellor shaft - attached to the sail drive 3) 3 small Zincs attached directly to the propellor The problem is that the 3 small zincs erode rapidly - sometimes within 2 months - and sometimes within 4 months...no regular pattern. The other zincs (1 and 2) look brand new after 2 years in the water and obviously do not protect the propellor at all. When the all the zincs were installed at the last haul-out 2 years ago I made sure they were free of any surface oxidation. I have also installed a Galvanic Isolator in an attempt to alleviate the problem - and the boat has been inspected for any stray currents and none found by the Marina staff. The boat next two ours is a derilict without any maintenance whatsoever - but is is also hoohed up to the same shorepower circuit as ours. The Marina staff dioes not think that is the culprit. Any suggestions? cvj Hello Claus, I'm on my way out, so just a brief post for now. First, it would not be surprising to find that the small zincs mounted on the prop go first. After all, they're right there. If everything is OK, then the other zincs will begin to work when the little ones are depleted. At this point, you can easily verify that the larger zincs are indeed connected electrically to the prop shaft and prop. Sometimes good contact is not made through shaft couplings, etc. and that would prevent the larger zincs from working. Of course the small ones on the prop are bonded electrically by definition. You can check the voltage between the engine ground and the prop side of the shaft. If you see nothing, even on the lowest DC voltage setting, chances are good they're bonded. Using an ohmmeter might be troublesome given the galvanic potentials that might be floating around. Good luck. Chuck ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#9
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One more quick thought. If you know the
approximate surface area of the prop and the weight of the zinc lost in say 2 months, it is fairly easy to figure out whether that is in the normal range. Let us know and we'll try to tell you. Chuck ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#10
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chuck wrote:
One more quick thought. If you know the approximate surface area of the prop and the weight of the zinc lost in say 2 months, it is fairly easy to figure out whether that is in the normal range. Let us know and we'll try to tell you. Chuck ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- Yet another thought. If your larger zincs really do look "new" (i.e., they are shiny) then they are probably active. An inactive zinc usually looks dark and tends to acquire a film characteristic of submerged matter. Chuck |
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