Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
Lewmar Windlass deck switches
Awhike back I commented on the poor quality and failure rate of deck
switches supplied with Lewmar windlasses. The wire potted into the switches is small guage and non-tinned. It rapidly corrodes and in no time all you have is red powder and a windlass that won't work. You can replace some of the wire with good stuff but since it's potted into the switch itself you eventually run out of wire to replace and have no way to connect the switch. On deck, the switch looks really big, about two inches in diamter with a hard cover and wires coming out the bottom. But if you take it apart, you find the switch itself is a tiny microswitch actuated by a plastic disk that sits on top of it and is in turn covered by a flexible plastic diaphragm. Lewmar charges sixty dollars or so for the complete assembly. Radio Shack sells an almost identical microswitch for about $2. It fits exactly even to the retainer pins. Wiring is not potted. The switch has solder lugs sticking out of the bottom to which you may solder top quality wire. Were I to do this again, I would open up the switches that came with the windlass and replace the microswitches and wiring on the original installtion. |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Alternator size vs Windlass current | Cruising | |||
Penetrating Epoxies in Deck Core Rot - Deck recoring | Cruising | |||
rec.boats.paddle sea kayaking FAQ | General | |||
rec.boats.paddle sea kayaking FAQ | General | |||
rec.boats.paddle sea kayaking FAQ | General |