To further their suggestions, I'd recommend using "liquid electrical
tape" on the connection first, then sliding the shrink tubing over it
while it is still wet, then immediately shrinking it down. This
technique forces any small air pockets out of the connection, which
might trap moisture and lead to corrosion. Start from one end and work
towards the other, allowing the liquid to be forced out as you go.

Also, you can buy "conformal coating" (sic?) and paint all electronic
parts with it. This is what is used in many military and/or marine
electronic PCBs that need protection from the elements. A small jar of
it can be purchased from Radio Shack or any electronics store. I
recommend painting any piece of electronic gear with it if it isn't
already coated.

A third approach is to submerge whatever you have in mineral oil. Since
the dielectric constant (how well it conducts electrons) of mineral oil
is similar to that of air, it will protect the component from oxidation
and not affect its performance. In fact, this is a solution being
adopted by some for creating a seaworthy case for their motherboards.

see http://www.markusleonhardt.de.nyud.n...oelbilder.html for pics
of someone who tried this using an aquarium.

Cheers,

Robb



Capt John wrote:
Wayne.B wrote:

On Thu, 24 Aug 2006 08:19:26 -0400, Gogarty
wrote:


The wire potted into the
switches is small guage and non-tinned. It rapidly corrodes and in no
time all you have is red powder and a windlass that won't work. You can
replace some of the wire with good stuff but since it's potted into the
switch itself you eventually run out of wire to replace and have no way
to connect the switch.

You need to do a better job of sealing your connections so that
moisture does not migrate back under the insulation. I'd recommend
using the Ancor heat shrink tubing the West Marine sells. It is
filled with glue and makes a very tight seal.


I agree with Wayne, you really need to keep the water out.