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![]() Wayne.B wrote: On Thu, 24 Aug 2006 08:19:26 -0400, Gogarty wrote: The wire potted into the switches is small guage and non-tinned. It rapidly corrodes and in no time all you have is red powder and a windlass that won't work. You can replace some of the wire with good stuff but since it's potted into the switch itself you eventually run out of wire to replace and have no way to connect the switch. You need to do a better job of sealing your connections so that moisture does not migrate back under the insulation. I'd recommend using the Ancor heat shrink tubing the West Marine sells. It is filled with glue and makes a very tight seal. I agree with Wayne, you really need to keep the water out. |
#2
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#3
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On Thu, 24 Aug 2006 21:36:57 -0400, Gogarty
wrote: Keep the water out. In a sailboat. In the anchor locker. Gimme a break. Let's start with top quality tinned wire in the first place and then keep the water out as best we can. I had the same switches in an anchor locker for 3 years and never had a problem with them. I did take extra care to seal the connections however. It can be done, although I agree that tinned wire would be nice. I will typically solder that type of connection before sealing it so at least the conduction path gets tinned. |
#4
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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To further their suggestions, I'd recommend using "liquid electrical
tape" on the connection first, then sliding the shrink tubing over it while it is still wet, then immediately shrinking it down. This technique forces any small air pockets out of the connection, which might trap moisture and lead to corrosion. Start from one end and work towards the other, allowing the liquid to be forced out as you go. Also, you can buy "conformal coating" (sic?) and paint all electronic parts with it. This is what is used in many military and/or marine electronic PCBs that need protection from the elements. A small jar of it can be purchased from Radio Shack or any electronics store. I recommend painting any piece of electronic gear with it if it isn't already coated. A third approach is to submerge whatever you have in mineral oil. Since the dielectric constant (how well it conducts electrons) of mineral oil is similar to that of air, it will protect the component from oxidation and not affect its performance. In fact, this is a solution being adopted by some for creating a seaworthy case for their motherboards. see http://www.markusleonhardt.de.nyud.n...oelbilder.html for pics of someone who tried this using an aquarium. Cheers, Robb Capt John wrote: Wayne.B wrote: On Thu, 24 Aug 2006 08:19:26 -0400, Gogarty wrote: The wire potted into the switches is small guage and non-tinned. It rapidly corrodes and in no time all you have is red powder and a windlass that won't work. You can replace some of the wire with good stuff but since it's potted into the switch itself you eventually run out of wire to replace and have no way to connect the switch. You need to do a better job of sealing your connections so that moisture does not migrate back under the insulation. I'd recommend using the Ancor heat shrink tubing the West Marine sells. It is filled with glue and makes a very tight seal. I agree with Wayne, you really need to keep the water out. |
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