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#21
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So what do you think all the marine life out there does? Use a whale
porta-potty? If that're really what you want to do, get a Lectra-San and treat it all, even when you're offshore. BocaJack wrote: I prefer not to dump raw sewage into the ocean. Otherwise, I would just crap over the side. |
#22
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On Tue, 18 Jul 2006 05:17:11 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote: BocaJack wrote: I am considering a new, simpler, and easier to maintain head arrangement that would include 1) manual freshwater flushing, And how do you plan to accomplish that if you install a toilet designed to pull in sea water? 'Cuz no toilet designed to use raw water (sea, lake, river etc) should ever be connected to the onboard fresh water supply... Only toilets designed to use pressurized flush water can safely be connected to the fresh water system...and there is no manual toilet designed to use pressurized flush water. I'm obviously confused. Pressurized flush water? What do you mean by this? Don't the electric pumps force air into the water tanks and push it up? If the electric pump is off, does this mean the water system is no longer "pressurized"? How does it work? |
#23
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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BocaJack wrote:
Only toilets designed to use pressurized flush water can safely be connected to the fresh water system...and there is no manual toilet designed to use pressurized flush water. I'm obviously confused. Pressurized flush water? What do you mean by this? Don't the electric pumps force air into the water tanks and push it up? Nope. There are raw electric toilets that PULL in sea water...and there are toilets designed to use pressurized flush water that tap into a fresh water line, and have a electric solenoid valve that acts like a faucet. They can only be used on boats that have electric fresh water pumps, and only when the water pump is on to keep the fresh water system pressurized. If the electric pump is off, does this mean the water system is no longer "pressurized"? How does it work? It doesn't. The water pump must be on to keep the fresh water plumbing pressurized. For some reason, a lot of sailors think that leaving the fresh water pump on is a bad idea...they only turn it on when they need to run water. THAT's a bad idea...'cuz the fresh water system loses pressure every time the pump is turned off...so it has re-pressurize the system every time it's turned back on, which is a lot of extra work for the fresh water pump, shortening its life. But if the p0ump is left on, the only time it has to run is when qa faucet is opened...to restore/maintain pressure caused by running water. Same is true of a fridge, btw...the hardest work a fridge compressor has to do is chill a warm box. So leave it on...the compressor only has to maintain it. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304 |
#24
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Peggie Hall wrote:
Nope. There are raw electric toilets that PULL in sea water...and there are toilets designed to use pressurized flush water that tap into a fresh water line, and have a electric solenoid valve that acts like a faucet. snip If you truly want to use potable water to flush your manual Lavac, there is only one fool proof way to do it. Leave the lid up, then add potable water from the shower wand, keeping the wand 12"-18" above the bowl. Don't bother to connect the flush water connection since you are not using it. Lew |
#25
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Lew Hodgett wrote:
Peggie Hall wrote: Nope. There are raw electric toilets that PULL in sea water...and there are toilets designed to use pressurized flush water that tap into a fresh water line, and have a electric solenoid valve that acts like a faucet. snip If you truly want to use potable water to flush your manual Lavac, there is only one fool proof way to do it. Leave the lid up, then add potable water from the shower wand, keeping the wand 12"-18" above the bowl. Don't bother to connect the flush water connection since you are not using it. Lew A completely separate FW tank plumbed to the head and totally isolated from the other FW tanks is every bit as "fool proof." On the other hand, your suggestion is a good one because you could then use the water for potable applications as well as for the head. --Alan Gomes |
#26
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On Thu, 20 Jul 2006 03:46:28 GMT, Lew Hodgett
wrote: If you truly want to use potable water to flush your manual Lavac, there is only one fool proof way to do it. Leave the lid up, then add potable water from the shower wand, keeping the wand 12"-18" above the bowl. Don't bother to connect the flush water connection since you are not using it. Lew The only easy, economical way, probably. But I've crewed on a number of trawlers (mostly Grand Banks) that have separate freswater tanks for flushwater. Typically they are unpressurized, using a standard head with an electric motor driving the pump mechanism. Don't think it's worth the trouble, myself, but rich trawler owners (and especially their wives) seem to be a lot more prissy than sailboat trash like me. __________________________________________________ __________ Glen "Wiley" Wilson usenet1 SPAMNIX at world wide wiley dot com To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious. Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/ |
#27
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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I found a Lavac Zenith at a Dutch boat jumble for 10 euros.
Replacement seals cost more!! The fresh water suction is plumbed into a small 6l cistern which in turn is connected to the pressurised fresh water system. Works a treat - flushing water drawn in, level in cistern drops and float valve operates to fill cistern - just like at home. Cistern does not leak when rolling - fitted in a motor vessel. |
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