Please post what you use on your bright-work. Tell why you use it, how it
goes on, and just generally what reason this product is the one for you.

There are so many finishes, products, etc that I can't decide.

It seems as if Cetol ( spelling? ) is all the rage. But there are lots of
products, I guess.

What is wrong with just plain teak oil?

On Tue, 30 May 2006 02:32:57 GMT, "Thomas Wentworth"
wrote:

What is wrong with just plain teak oil?

Nothing actually, it looks quite good when freshly applied. The
problem with all oil finishes is that they darken (oxidize) with age
and require harsh cleaning methods (acid wash, sanding, etc.)
Eventually the teak wears thin from all that.

Cetol is a religious issue and you either love it or hate it. I fall
into the latter group. It is basically a stain which hides the
natural appearance of the teak, and has an odd (to my eye) orange tint
to it. Without faithful and regular reapplication it fades to
something which resembles old barn paint and looks quite unpleasant.
It is also very slippery when wet.

Which brings us to varnish, another religious issue. Varnish is
arguably the most attractive teak finish when properly applied and
maintained. It is a LOT of work however to keep it up, and if
neglected requires stripping and a total do over with about 7 coats.
Epifanes is a quality varnish which looks great when freshly applied
but is not as durable as Z-spar in my limited experience.

Try to find the Practical Sailor reports on varnish and other teak
treatments.

"Thomas Wentworth" wrote in message
news:t9Oeg.2962$634.359@trndny06...
Please post what you use on your bright-work. Tell why you use it, how it
goes on, and just generally what reason this product is the one for you.

There are so many finishes, products, etc that I can't decide.

It seems as if Cetol ( spelling? ) is all the rage. But there are lots of
products, I guess.

What is wrong with just plain teak oil?


For my interior wood I use Formby's Tung Oil. It is in fact a wiping
varnish. You just wipe it on with a rag, as you would with teak oil.

Alan Gomes

I use Honey Teak, and have for about 5 years. You put on 3 base coats
of the Honey, which is a pigmented polyurethane. You mix the Honey with
a flow fluid and a catalyst. Then you put on 2+ coats of the clear
enamel, again mix the enamel with flow fluid and catalyst. This makes a
beautiful finish that is tough! Be sure to follow their directions
because it's a bit different to apply than regular varnish. Try to do
it when it's cool and/or cloudy. Hot and direct sun will make it bubble
on raw teak on the first coat. For maintenance you only have to scuff
the surface with a 3M red pad and put on another coat or two of clear
annually. http://www.fabulainc.com/
I just finished putting on the annual maintenance coat... it rained
yesterday and the water beads up on the finish just like a car that's
just been waxed.

I prefer one of the modern catalyzed urethane/acrylics such a "Honey
Teak" or "Smith & Co. 5 year clear". These are for teak only and dont
have the adhesion for other species.

The reason is ... they look like 'prime' oil based varnish, can be
'hand-rubbed' or powerbuffed and with minor maintenance can last 5-6
seasons.

Whats wrong with teak oil? It rapidly oxidizes and turns very dark
and then needs to be stripped. Of course, a 'resinated' teak oil can
produce a gloss surface that rivals the very best varnish coatings for
"interior" work.


In article t9Oeg.2962$634.359@trndny06, Thomas Wentworth
wrote:

Please post what you use on your bright-work. Tell why you use it, how it
goes on, and just generally what reason this product is the one for you.

There are so many finishes, products, etc that I can't decide.

It seems as if Cetol ( spelling? ) is all the rage. But there are lots of
products, I guess.

What is wrong with just plain teak oil?

I just 'double coat' with the maintenance clear coat every two years
and powerbuff it with a highspeed autobody shop polisher in the
intervening years.


In article om, Keith
wrote:

I use Honey Teak, and have for about 5 years. You put on 3 base coats
of the Honey, which is a pigmented polyurethane. You mix the Honey with
a flow fluid and a catalyst. Then you put on 2+ coats of the clear
enamel, again mix the enamel with flow fluid and catalyst. This makes a
beautiful finish that is tough! Be sure to follow their directions
because it's a bit different to apply than regular varnish. Try to do
it when it's cool and/or cloudy. Hot and direct sun will make it bubble
on raw teak on the first coat. For maintenance you only have to scuff
the surface with a 3M red pad and put on another coat or two of clear
annually. http://www.fabulainc.com/
I just finished putting on the annual maintenance coat... it rained
yesterday and the water beads up on the finish just like a car that's
just been waxed.

I was looking for an acrylic product like this a few weeks back and
the only one I could find (the one in Gloucester MA) appeared to have
gone out of business. I gave up and invested in teak oil.

Do I have to get all the teak oil off before I can use Honey Teak?

--

Roger Long



"Rich Hampel" wrote in message
...
I prefer one of the modern catalyzed urethane/acrylics such a "Honey
Teak" or "Smith & Co. 5 year clear". These are for teak only and
dont
have the adhesion for other species.

The reason is ... they look like 'prime' oil based varnish, can be
'hand-rubbed' or powerbuffed and with minor maintenance can last 5-6
seasons.

Whats wrong with teak oil? It rapidly oxidizes and turns very dark
and then needs to be stripped. Of course, a 'resinated' teak oil
can
produce a gloss surface that rivals the very best varnish coatings
for
"interior" work.


In article t9Oeg.2962$634.359@trndny06, Thomas Wentworth
wrote:

Please post what you use on your bright-work. Tell why you use it,
how it
goes on, and just generally what reason this product is the one for
you.

There are so many finishes, products, etc that I can't decide.

It seems as if Cetol ( spelling? ) is all the rage. But there are
lots of
products, I guess.

What is wrong with just plain teak oil?

Probably, but call Tom at Fabula (link posted earlier) and ask him...
he's the inventor of the stuff and THE expert. You may just be able to
wipe down with alcohol or something and sand.

In article t9Oeg.2962$634.359@trndny06,
"Thomas Wentworth" wrote:

Please post what you use on your bright-work. Tell why you use it, how it
goes on, and just generally what reason this product is the one for you.

As others have mentioned, this is somewhat a religious topic.

We prefer Cetol as we only re-coat every couple of years as needed, and
the two or five coats we can apply while we're at an anchorage for a few
days last quite a long time.

I admire the absolutely beautiful brightwork done in varnish or the
modern equivalents, but refuse to spend the time to make it so.

We SAIL our boat in season. This year looks to be a bit below our usual,
only 73 scheduled days out and sailing. Last year was awful, about 65
days. We used a grand total of 13 gallons of diesel, about 50 hours' run
time.

Your results will almost assuredly vary.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

"Thomas Wentworth" wrote:
Please post what you use on your bright-work. Tell why you use it, how it
goes on, and just generally what reason this product is the one for you.


Jere Lull wrote:
As others have mentioned, this is somewhat a religious topic.


Yes, but it shouldn't be.

We prefer Cetol as we only re-coat every couple of years as needed, and
the two or five coats we can apply while we're at an anchorage for a few
days last quite a long time.

I admire the absolutely beautiful brightwork done in varnish or the
modern equivalents, but refuse to spend the time to make it so.


Actually, the time spent is getting it to look good in the
first place, and learning how to achieve that. Most people
could probably never get a good looking coat of varnish on,
no matter how much time they spent.

Once the surface is in good shape & looking Bristol, it only
takes a small amount of touch-up per season (at least, at
this latitude.) OTOH it *cannot* be deferred or the surface
goes to crap quickly.


We SAIL our boat in season. This year looks to be a bit below our usual,
only 73 scheduled days out and sailing. Last year was awful, about 65
days. We used a grand total of 13 gallons of diesel, about 50 hours' run
time.

Your results will almost assuredly vary.


I would just as soon lay down a coat of cheap shellac, then
paint on Sears Weather-Beater or some other cheap &
super-durable finish. Why put on a pretend bright finish
that still takes too much work? A nice light cream or buff
color accents the boat nicely and looks pretty good, and
lasts for years even in the Flroida sun. Then when you want
to sell, take a scrubby pad and scour off the paint, lay on
a coat of varnish, and there you go.

Having owned wooden boats, I am no longer seduced by the
romance of having any type of bright wood finishes on the
exterior. OTOH I am alos spoiled enough, and have rigid
enough aesthetic standards, that I'd rather not have ugly
congealed jello smeared on whatever wood my boat is showing
to the public.

If the wood is pretty, then show it! If not, or if you have
other priorities (not a bad thing at all) then why take half
measures?

Fresh Breezes- Doug King