"GBM" wrote in news:MK8eg.39785$Hk1.12558
@read1.cgocable.net:

I may
just cut the plug off and splice onto a new cable.

Why not get the matching socket for the plug and mount it near the fridge,
making it possible to easily extract the fridge for repair, replacement or
just cleaning behind it, someday.

Any kind of inline splicing usually causes problems down the road from
coming loose to corrosion and certainly makes removing the fridge a pain in
the.....well, you get the idea. Install the outlet for the plug, ok?

Thanks!

The Reefer Guys.

I will install an outlet, but this won't help me remove or clean behind the
"fridge"! The "fridge" is a Waeco evaporator/condenser unit that is built
into the boats icebox

The item I am installing, is a small Mobitronics rectifier that will provide
24V power to the "fridge" when at dock . It automatically switches out the
12v battery DC when activated. Waeco recommend this so as to avoid any
voltage spikes that the on-board charger may cause.

Probably not essential with our Truepower charger, but the eBay price was
right and it provides a neat way of monitoring the "fridge" power usage
(Using a Kill A Watt). This was suggested by someone earlier when I asked
about ways of checking power usage with different amounts of additional
(temporary) icebox insulation.

GBM

"Larry" wrote

Why not get the matching socket for the plug and mount it near the fridge,
making it possible to easily extract the fridge for repair, replacement or
just cleaning behind it, someday.

Any kind of inline splicing usually causes problems down the road from
coming loose to corrosion and certainly makes removing the fridge a pain
in
the.....well, you get the idea. Install the outlet for the plug, ok?

Thanks!

The Reefer Guys.

"GBM" wrote in news:u6Ceg.76030$fd.34300
@read2.cgocable.net:

Waeco recommend this so as to avoid any
voltage spikes that the on-board charger may cause.



Hmm...Interesting. The only way I know of it making a "voltage spike" is
if it is connected to a battery with an open cell. Batteries absorb the
spikes, normally. It's how they charge...(c;

"Larry" wrote

Hmm...Interesting. The only way I know of it making a "voltage spike" is
if it is connected to a battery with an open cell. Batteries absorb the
spikes, normally. It's how they charge...(c;


I think they were talking about higher than normal charger output voltages
in 15+v range that some chargers may put out under certain conditions.

Regarding spikes - Don't we get a "spike" when we turn on the charger?
Instead of say 11.5v, we suddenly have 14.5 or whatever. Anyway, that's
what my voltmeter tells me!

GBM

If the batteries suddenly spike from 11.5V to 14.5V when connected to the
charger, that is an indication that the batteries are worn out. A battery
that is good takes time to discharge and little longer to charge. There
are a lot of variables, such as the size of batteries vs. size of charger.
Generally batteries should be kept above 12.2V, otherwise they have short
life. Thousands of boats have A/B fridge systems (including mine), all
have battery chargers, they work reliably without add'tl equipment.
Lee Haefele
Nauticat 33 Alesto
"GBM" wrote in message
news

"Larry" wrote

Hmm...Interesting. The only way I know of it making a "voltage spike" is
if it is connected to a battery with an open cell. Batteries absorb the
spikes, normally. It's how they charge...(c;


I think they were talking about higher than normal charger output voltages
in 15+v range that some chargers may put out under certain conditions.

Regarding spikes - Don't we get a "spike" when we turn on the charger?
Instead of say 11.5v, we suddenly have 14.5 or whatever. Anyway, that's
what my voltmeter tells me!

GBM