Hi

I have a 26 year old Mirage 27 sailing boat, beautiful condition inside,
however the hull has become dull, looking tired and her age. I would like
to clean and bring back the shine. I have heard both pro's and con's of
silicon polish.

Can anyone advise a good fiberglass cleaner, and resolution to the "dull
hull" syndrome.

I need to apply anti-fouling this year, should I use the cleaner below the
water-line before applying the anti-fouling.

Thanks.

I posted the following respone to a similar question on sailnet.net the
other day to the same question:

First look at the gelcoat with a strong magnifying glass or pocket
microscope (Radio Shack). If you see NO 'alligatoring', then the
gelcoat can be wet sanded and powerbuffed back to the 'original' shine
and brilliance.
1. wash the surface with a STRONG caustic detergent ... from a
janatorial supply, then use oxalic acid (wood bleach -- from a paint
store) to remove old dead wax, iron and tannin stains. Dont MIX
detergent and oxalic !!!! rinse in between the two. Wear gloves when
using oxalic as it quickly absorbs through you skin and can damage your
kidneys.

2. Flat sand the gelcoat with 1000-- 1500 --2000 grit wet and dry
sandpaper using a few drops of dishwashing detergent in a few gallons
of water. Use a rubber sanding block. Sand away until the surface is
flat. Most gelcoat is quite thick .... but stop sanding immediately
when you see the matting layer of fiberglass under layer showing
through .... if you do its time to paint. If not, proceed to 2. The
object is to remove the oxidized outter layer of gelcoat and produce a
FLAT surface ... use the pocket microscope if you have one.

3. Get a high speed autobody power polisher (varibale speed 1000-3000
rpm), 3M foam polishing pads, Coarse Fiberglass rubbing compound, 1000
grit auto body shop compound, 3M finesse it, 3M Perfect polishing
compount, Collinite Fleetwax.

4. Begin with a fresh foam pad (Never mix pads and grits). In a 2ft. by
2 ft. surface apply coarse rubbing compound then do the 2ft. x 2 ft.
square with a foam pad, move to the next 2X2 square until the whole
boat is completed, Then do the same with 1300 grit - whole boat, then
Finesse-it, then Perfect-it. Keep the buffer moving at all times, be
very careful and dont 'burn through' sharp corners. Power buffing can
remove a LOT of gelcoat, so use a 'light touch' .. and keep the buffer
moving so you dont 'overheat' the surface. The speed of the polisher is
what does the work not the pressure. By the time you get to the
Finesse-it the hull should be back to NEW condition shine wise.
Perfect-it with give the deep shine.
You must wax immediately to fill the 'pores' of the gelcoat. Use a
clean bare hand, some water and the paste collinite and rub by hand
until the wax begins to shine, then add about a 10¢ size spread over
the 2X2 and powerbuff. Push the wax INTO the pores of gel ... dont just
smear it across it - this will seal the pores and will retard
oxidation.

99% of the time the above process will restore an old faded hull back
to NEW condition. Its also the same process that is used to powerbuff a
NEW hull when its pulled from its mold. Rewax at about 6 months and
every 12 thereafter as a minimum. Every 2-3 years STRIP the old dead
wax with a caustic detergent, light powerbuff with Perfect-it and
rewax. .... This should keep the boat looking like new for the next 30
years.
You may want to fill in gouges, etc. with new gelcoat before you
powerbuff.

Beware snake oil: acrylic coating 'wipe on' coatings. They look good
for a season or two but ultimately fail and have to be removed (when
they will look like a severe skin disease). The acrylic removal is a
PITA and is ultimately more harmful than the above powerbuffing
method.In article FgD1g.40957$7a.16136@pd7tw1no, Sebastian
wrote:

Hi

I have a 26 year old Mirage 27 sailing boat, beautiful condition inside,
however the hull has become dull, looking tired and her age. I would like
to clean and bring back the shine. I have heard both pro's and con's of
silicon polish.

Can anyone advise a good fiberglass cleaner, and resolution to the "dull
hull" syndrome.

I need to apply anti-fouling this year, should I use the cleaner below the
water-line before applying the anti-fouling.

Thanks.

You are giving excellent advice. I think that the 3M stuff requires
3200rpm. Read the label and follow the instructions and Rich's
prediction will come true for you.

Great advice Rich! Well done.


"Rich Hampel" wrote in message
...
I posted the following respone to a similar question on sailnet.net the
other day to the same question:

First look at the gelcoat with a strong magnifying glass or pocket
microscope (Radio Shack). If you see NO 'alligatoring', then the
gelcoat can be wet sanded and powerbuffed back to the 'original' shine
and brilliance.
1. wash the surface with a STRONG caustic detergent ... from a
janatorial supply, then use oxalic acid (wood bleach -- from a paint
store) to remove old dead wax, iron and tannin stains. Dont MIX
detergent and oxalic !!!! rinse in between the two. Wear gloves when
using oxalic as it quickly absorbs through you skin and can damage your
kidneys.

2. Flat sand the gelcoat with 1000-- 1500 --2000 grit wet and dry
sandpaper using a few drops of dishwashing detergent in a few gallons
of water. Use a rubber sanding block. Sand away until the surface is
flat. Most gelcoat is quite thick .... but stop sanding immediately
when you see the matting layer of fiberglass under layer showing
through .... if you do its time to paint. If not, proceed to 2. The
object is to remove the oxidized outter layer of gelcoat and produce a
FLAT surface ... use the pocket microscope if you have one.

3. Get a high speed autobody power polisher (varibale speed 1000-3000
rpm), 3M foam polishing pads, Coarse Fiberglass rubbing compound, 1000
grit auto body shop compound, 3M finesse it, 3M Perfect polishing
compount, Collinite Fleetwax.

4. Begin with a fresh foam pad (Never mix pads and grits). In a 2ft. by
2 ft. surface apply coarse rubbing compound then do the 2ft. x 2 ft.
square with a foam pad, move to the next 2X2 square until the whole
boat is completed, Then do the same with 1300 grit - whole boat, then
Finesse-it, then Perfect-it. Keep the buffer moving at all times, be
very careful and dont 'burn through' sharp corners. Power buffing can
remove a LOT of gelcoat, so use a 'light touch' .. and keep the buffer
moving so you dont 'overheat' the surface. The speed of the polisher is
what does the work not the pressure. By the time you get to the
Finesse-it the hull should be back to NEW condition shine wise.
Perfect-it with give the deep shine.
You must wax immediately to fill the 'pores' of the gelcoat. Use a
clean bare hand, some water and the paste collinite and rub by hand
until the wax begins to shine, then add about a 10¢ size spread over
the 2X2 and powerbuff. Push the wax INTO the pores of gel ... dont just
smear it across it - this will seal the pores and will retard
oxidation.

99% of the time the above process will restore an old faded hull back
to NEW condition. Its also the same process that is used to powerbuff a
NEW hull when its pulled from its mold. Rewax at about 6 months and
every 12 thereafter as a minimum. Every 2-3 years STRIP the old dead
wax with a caustic detergent, light powerbuff with Perfect-it and
rewax. .... This should keep the boat looking like new for the next 30
years.
You may want to fill in gouges, etc. with new gelcoat before you
powerbuff.

Beware snake oil: acrylic coating 'wipe on' coatings. They look good
for a season or two but ultimately fail and have to be removed (when
they will look like a severe skin disease). The acrylic removal is a
PITA and is ultimately more harmful than the above powerbuffing
method.In article FgD1g.40957$7a.16136@pd7tw1no, Sebastian
wrote:

Hi

I have a 26 year old Mirage 27 sailing boat, beautiful condition inside,
however the hull has become dull, looking tired and her age. I would
like
to clean and bring back the shine. I have heard both pro's and con's of
silicon polish.

Can anyone advise a good fiberglass cleaner, and resolution to the "dull
hull" syndrome.

I need to apply anti-fouling this year, should I use the cleaner below
the
water-line before applying the anti-fouling.

Thanks.

Coming late to this party, I wonder what is recommended for relatively
new awl-grip.

By relatively new, I mean older than 2 years, which is how long Flying
Pig has been ashore, at a minimum. That may be significant, as I see
that less than 2-year old gelcoat isn't a good candidate for this
product. FWIW, the stern and rubrail are both only 1 year old, but the
rest of it is probably 3-5 or maybe more old.

And, I'm wondering how much product would be needed to cover about
400SF or so...

Thanks for any intelligence on the matter. As we approach the time to
splash, with Lydia's mom available to help dress her out, this is now
on the radar...

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
http://tinyurl.com/384p2 The vessel as Tehamana, as we bought her

" I went to the Sea because I wished to live deliberately .. to
confront only the essential facts of life .. and see if I could
not learn what it had to teach, and not .. when I came to die
discover that I had not lived" - Hendry David Thoreau "

Skip,

How is the older Awlgrip looking at this point?

Skip Gundlach wrote:
Coming late to this party, I wonder what is recommended for relatively
new awl-grip.

By relatively new, I mean older than 2 years, which is how long Flying
Pig has been ashore, at a minimum. That may be significant, as I see
that less than 2-year old gelcoat isn't a good candidate for this
product. FWIW, the stern and rubrail are both only 1 year old, but the
rest of it is probably 3-5 or maybe more old.

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
http://tinyurl.com/384p2 The vessel as Tehamana, as we bought her

" I went to the Sea because I wished to live deliberately .. to
confront only the essential facts of life .. and see if I could
not learn what it had to teach, and not .. when I came to die
discover that I had not lived" - Hendry David Thoreau "

Actually, the correct quote from "Walden" begins "I went to
the woods because..." Although its is fine to go to sea for
the same reasons.

Don W.