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"Gary" wrote
Wow. this is dumb. Sorry. I shouldn't have shot my mouth off, even if this is a newsgroup. Since you seem to know what you are talking about, would you please help me understand some of this stuff better? First, a clarification: I didn't mean that you can't unbalance a sail plan to the point that the vessel becomes uncontrollable, just that most vessels tolerate much larger shifts than yacht designers obsess about when they are balancing paper cut outs of the underbody on a pin. Some vessels tolerate these shifts, which do create small differences in rudder angle and helm force, better than others. I'm sorry to hear about the handling problems with your ketch. Now my questions: Putting aside a few dinghies with jibing centerboards and some older racing boats with keel trim tabs, the angle of attack of the symmetrical foil that is keel or centerboard is exactly fixed by the hull's motion through the water. Anyone can look at a boat hull and figure out that it will go more easily through the water straight than with the flow at an angle. Minimizing leeway certainly is a key both to speed and making as high a course to windward as possible. You say: The flow across the rudder and keel have a slight angular component but that gives "lift" hydrodynamically. I would very much like to know where this angular component comes from because I've clearly been missing something all these years. I've been producing the angle of attack necessary to create the lift to that is the opposite force vector to the sails by letting the hull go through the water at a slight angle. Your way is clearly better because of the lower drag. Please tell me how to do it. In your other response, you said: The optimum (heel) angle is usually pretty close to flat. When I'm sailing my 32 foot boat alone, my weight does not effect heel noticeably. I scooch as far up on the coaming as I can and stretch lifelines out with my back but it doesn't seem to help much. On the 135 foot schooner I sailed to Bermuda on a couple of times, people were too busy with classes, sleeping off watch, and other things. The captain looked at me kind of funny when I asked if everyone could come out and sit on the rail for me. Most of the sailing I've done in boats big enough to sleep in has not provided the opportunity to shift any significant weight. The only way to reduce heel is to reef, ease sheets, or head up. I've always done this just enough to get the heel down to the angle that the boat seems to move fastest at. When I reduce the heel further, the boats I sail have always slowed down. Heading up too much in strong breezes before I got a little more helm time under my belt would sometimes result in their slowing down so much that loss of water flow over the rudder would lead to going out of control. Clearly, I've been missing something all these years. I suspect it is connected to my confusion about leeway. I'm sure that, after you explain how to create the side force at zero angle of attack, I'll be able to learn how to head up or reduce sail enough that there is almost no heel. The hull will then be in minimum drag configuration, symmetrical and going straight through the water, and the boat should just fly. I can't wait until next summer to try this out but first, you've got to tell me what I've been doing wrong. --Roger Long -- Roger Long |
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