All I got was this;

Hmmm, We Can't Find that Page...

The page you're looking for might have been moved or deleted. Or,
perhaps the Web address is misspelled?




wrote in message
oups.com...
I've managed to load two pics of the damaged area at

http://groups.msn.com/LysanderSailer...msnw?Page=Last

Graeme

On Wed, 26 Oct 2005 22:16:01 GMT, "Scotty"
wrote:

All I got was this;

Hmmm, We Can't Find that Page...

The page you're looking for might have been moved or deleted. Or,
perhaps the Web address is misspelled?

It worked fine for me...
The pictures were a bit blurred but it seems the part that is
connected (mastfoot?) could be drilled loose and you could a) use
slightly bigger (thicker) rivets on the old places and b) drill a new
hole next to the one ripped open.

In the yahoo group I mentioned earlier there is a discussion going on
about modern powerful adhesives. Maybe you can overcome the "fear for
the unknown" that I feel too to use this product on a critical spot.
I copied the last message.
source: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rebuiltaluminumboat/

Luck,
Len
S/v Present

----------------------------------------
Hello John,
I sell Body Shop Supplies, and I know of a Very Good Adhesive you can
use to bond ANY thing together with. The part number is 08115 Panel
Bonding Adhesive it's about $32.00 , you have to have the gun to use
this product. Many different makers of this gun are out there.The
cheepest gun I know of is about $40.00 made by Shopware
www.shopwareinc.net . 08115 is a two part adhhesive that is mixed by
placing in the gun, kinda like a caulking gun. 3M also makes some
other great adhesives in this same line "Automix". 08115 has a work
time of 90 minutes, Handling time of 4 hours, and cure time of 24
hours. All times can be accelerrated with heat. We use this product in
place of welding now days. Scary to think your car is glued
together........ Most new cars have plastic or aluminum or very thin
sheet metal for fenders and doors skins.
I glued a cow skill to the side of the barn 5 years ago and you can
hang off of it if you wanted to.
Hope this helps.
Tod
---------------------------------------------

Len wrote:
It worked fine for me...
The pictures were a bit blurred but it seems the part that is
connected (mastfoot?) could be drilled loose and you could a) use
slightly bigger (thicker) rivets on the old places and b) drill a new
hole next to the one ripped open.

After looking at the damage, I'd be concerned about the end of the mast
opening up slightly and coming off the step on the edge of the mast foot
casting. If this starts to happen, total failure could occur in a
very short time with the mast wall peeling back as it is forced over the
foot like peeling a banana. How far it will go and is the rig going to
stay up are the critical questions. I'd NOT be happy with just
re-riviting it.

You cannot effectively weld many grades of cast aluminium. If you are
going to have this welded, ONLY GET THE CRACKS WELDED. The foot casting
should still be fitted with rivits. The damaged area should be sleeved
with a rivited on sheet of aluminium on the outside extending a couple
of inches up the mast and the new holes for the foot drilled through
this and the mast wall. This will prevent it spreading as described
above. To shape aluminium sheet to fit, it will have to be annealed.
Ideally it would be heat treated to harden it before riviting it in
place but some alloys age harden to a fair extent at room temperature.
Best talk to a rigger. If you DIY this, you NEED to use Duralac on the
rivits and all surfaces in contact unless you are using a structural
adhesive.

If you have enough thread left on your turnbuckles to take up half an
inch and still have plenty of range for adjustment, cut off the damage
and have done with it. I would only raise the tabernackle as a last
resort.

--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & 32K emails -- NUL:
'Stingo' Albacore #1554 - 15' Early 60's, Uffa Fox designed,
All varnished hot moulded wooden racing dinghy.

On 26 Oct 2005 14:51:19 -0700, wrote:

I've managed to load two pics of the damaged area at

http://groups.msn.com/LysanderSailer...msnw?Page=Last

Graeme

When it comes to photography: don't give up your day job!
The damage is not overwhelming.
The forces are mostly in compression, so it would probably survive a
while as is. But it would be nice to make it good, I know.

Show it to a TIG welder who knows what he is doing. They can make it a
work of art. If it is heat treated section, the weld zone would
not be a concern for the compression stress.

Brian Whatcott Altus OK

Sound like they must have been big rivets? When I fitted a new used boom to
"Songlines" I got bolts long enough to go all the way through (bail and
boom) and used nylon washers to keep from scuffing up my paint job.
"Don White" wrote in message
...
MMC wrote:
Bigger rivets? SS screws? Sounds like pretty minor damage. I wouldn't
cut
the mast.
wrote in message
oups.com...

While recently lowering my mast it fell forwards partially pulling the
rivets out where the mast joins the bottom bracket. I think that I have
two options to repair this. One is to drilll out the rivets cut off the
botton 1cm ,or so, of the mast to a point just above the old rivets &
redrill & rivet. This will mean putting a block under the tabernackle
so that the stay/shrouds can remain the same length.
Option two is to get the bottom of the mast ally welded to repair the
damage & also attatch the bottom of the mast to the ally bracket.
Does anyone have views on the suitability of both repairs? The second
is the easier option as it will be done proffesionally.




I've got a minor repair to make also. The PO of my sailboat must have
used steel rivets to hold the bailer (re boom vang) to my mast. The mast
was dented right at that point also. The rigger at a local marine
supply store suggested I get a couple of stainless steel bolts long
enough to go through the mast, rather than try to re-rivet elongated
holes. ( for me, about 2&3/4" or 3" length should do)

I can't open your attachment. Can you post to alt.binaries.picture.
sports.ocean?
MMC
"Don White" wrote in message
...
MMC wrote:
Sound like they must have been big rivets? When I fitted a new used boom
to
"Songlines" I got bolts long enough to go all the way through (bail and
boom) and used nylon washers to keep from scuffing up my paint job.
"Don White" wrote in message
...

The existing rusting rivets don't reach all the way through....just to
the 'double wall' of the mast track.
see: attached