WaIIy wrote in
:

I've read your story before and I am guessing that the connection from
the engine to the shaft seal is below the waterline where it attaches to
the engines.

Correct. The engine room in this 41' ketch under the center cockpit is
very deep and underwater. When the backflow finally filled up the waterbox
muffler, exhaust hoses and into the exhaust manifold, it fed back into the
exhaust valves into the cylinders it could get to.


I installed two PSS seals on my boat (twin 5.7's) and the fitting I put
on the manifold is quite a bit above the waterline.

Your engines are above the waterline, at least the heads are.


I can't see, in my case, how a backflow could possibly occur.

It probably can't in a fast boat so shallow with the engines so high up.
Ours is a displacement boat with a 6.5' draft and very deep bilges.


You have to keep your eyes on these seals though. Debris can get in
there and cause a leak.


The water injection line connects to the SEAWARD side of the seal. If you
ever have the line off, just lay it in the bilge under the waterline and
watch it back up.... It's fully exposed to the sea behind the seals.

--
Larry

rhys wrote in
:

Now I have a perfectly fine rebuilt A4 in my garage with 40 hours on
it. Crazy, eh?

R.



The original Perkins 4-108 in Lionheart was replaced at thousands of hours
with one I got from a guy on this very newsgroup in Oriental, NC, with 700
hours on it. Cap'n had the original one restored for a spare and we call
it his "practice engine" in his garage in Atlanta...(c; It's in a very
nice neighborhood. Perkins 4-108 is a helluva great little diesel tractor
engine.

--
Larry

Stephen,
A couple of years ago I installed a PSS shaft seal also om my
C&C 30 Mk II. It was the low speed version....my boat motors only 6 knots. I
"burped" the rubber bellows as instructed. The Carbon flange and stator
would overheat often and make a rattling noise when in gear. I contacted PYI
the manufacturer, they explained that now all of their PSS shaft seals are
of the high speed variety. I assume that they were aware of this problem of
mine on other boats as well. They did send me a free carbon flange with the
coolant nipple however I didn`t chance it, I`m back to my old stuffing box
that never rattles.

Allan
"Stephen Trapani" wrote in message
...
The professional who installed the dripless shaft seal on my Hunter 33
told me to attach the tube coming off the seal to a spot where it opened
above the water line, but on a recent boating program on TV they said
you are supposed to T that into the exhaust line of the cooling system.

On the dripless web site they say that cooling system is only for high
speed boats. Should I leave it as is or T it in?

--
Stephen

-------

For any proposition there is always some sufficiently narrow
interpretation of its terms, such that it turns out true, and
some sufficiently wide interpretation such that it turns out
false...concept stretching will refute *any* statement, and will
leave no true statement whatsoever.
-- Imre Lakatos

WaIIy wrote in
:

as the top of the walls is slightly above the waterline.

Wonder if it's still above the waterline when those "walls" are full of
seawater....

Does this thing have outdrives?

--
Larry

WaIIy wrote in
:

No, a 30ft Tollycraft with 350's and V-drives. The top of the wall
around each engine is above the waterline and have no drains.


Hmm...I'm not sure I like that. A raw water leak that would just be pumped
out by the bilge pumps would flood the engine and ruin it. I guess there
is a bilge pump in each engine compartment, eh?

--
Larry

WaIIy wrote in
:

It's an odd arrangement, I'll admit. Luckily my bilge stays so dry I
have to dust it



You ARE a lucky character. If it were mine, there'd be a 1000 GPH bilge
pump in each one of those compartments hooked where noone could turn them
off without removing a fuse (no switches/breakers on panel).

One can never have too many bilge pumps....

--
Larry

WaIIy wrote in
:

If one of those hoses went and I didn't know it, I think that would be
all she wrote.



All the more reason for bilge pumps....more bilge pumps.

The boat should always have more bilge pump capacity than any cooling hose
could ingest into the hull. You should be able to pull a hose off any
thru-hull fitting and NOT sink. Bilge pumps are so cheap.

When you install them, hook them straight to the battery through a fuse at
the battery, itself, that's twice what the bilge pump draws under a heavy
load. Never hook a bilge pump through any kind of switch or breaker panel
someone can get to to shut it off. I think that's stupid to put switches
in them.

Well, I can see you're on your way to the boat store. C'ya later...(c;

--
Larry

WaIIy wrote in
:

Whoa, I replaced them immediately.

I've never quite got used to the outdrive, where the family drowning is
separated from the sea by that rubber diaphram made by the lowest bidder.
Just doesn't seem logical, to me...

--
Larry