It may be true that water cooled is usually more efficient, but for a
minimal system based on a BD35, the added efficiency may not be worth
the power use of a water pump. This is a small issue with a large
holding plate system because it only runs one or two hours a day, but
the small evaporator based system may run 8 hours a day, and the water
pump would then add a lot of overhead. And, it adds a through-hull,
strainer and plumbing, and can get clogged with silt. This may be
worthwhile Downeast, where the water is 52 degrees, but might not be
in the tropics.

Doug Dotson wrote:
A water-cooled unit is always more efficient than an air-cooled unit. Unless
somehow the air temp gets cool for a long period while the water temp stays
high. Not very common. This is why all the larger units are water-cooled.

Doug
s/v Callista


"Jeff" wrote in message
...

A lot depends on the size of your fridge and how you use it. If you can go
into a bit of detail, such as the size of the box(es), freezer
requirements, and the nature of your cruising, you might get better advice.
For example, if you cruise in cold water, a water cooled system would be
more efficient. But if you power each day (or run a genset for A/C) then
the power issues might not be important to you.

I have larger Crosby (actually part of A/B) holding plate system for a
separate fridge and freezer system that I've had a love/hate relationship
with. When I pull a steak out of the freezer that's frozen down to zero
degrees, I'm happy. But when I don't need the freezer, its a real
annoyance to use 70 to 100 Amp-hours a day on the system. And of course,
one small leak and the whole system is down. (This happened twice in 7
seasons, and both times was detected in home port, not while traveling.)

If I were building my system now, I might consider having two systems
based on the new Danfoss compressors. While perhaps not the most
efficient in total, having two systems for the two boxes would give more
flexibility in case one is lost.

Danfoss is the "hermetic" sealed compressor your A/B is based on, and is
used in most of the smaller systems today. Of course, the units have
changed in the last 20 years, and each company has some "special
technology" that makes theirs the best. You might look over
www.rparts.com to get a free education about the components in use today.
They carry the latest Danfoss units and this will give you a baseline to
see if you're getting your money's worth from whichever system you decide
on.





Dick Behan wrote:

The 20-year-old Adler/Barbour unit on our Victory Tug has expired. Can't
complain about the service, but what do you cruisers out there think
about replacing it? Go with Adler/Barbour again, or is there a more
up-to-date technology (and product) you'd recommend as superior?
TIA.

Dick Behan
M/V ANNIE

The water pump on my system draws less than 1/2 amp. Using a water-cooled
system saves enough energy to more than offset the overhead of the pump.

Doug

"Jeff" wrote in message
...
It may be true that water cooled is usually more efficient, but for a
minimal system based on a BD35, the added efficiency may not be worth the
power use of a water pump. This is a small issue with a large holding
plate system because it only runs one or two hours a day, but the small
evaporator based system may run 8 hours a day, and the water pump would
then add a lot of overhead. And, it adds a through-hull, strainer and
plumbing, and can get clogged with silt. This may be worthwhile Downeast,
where the water is 52 degrees, but might not be in the tropics.

Doug Dotson wrote:
A water-cooled unit is always more efficient than an air-cooled unit.
Unless
somehow the air temp gets cool for a long period while the water temp
stays
high. Not very common. This is why all the larger units are water-cooled.

Doug
s/v Callista


"Jeff" wrote in message
...

A lot depends on the size of your fridge and how you use it. If you can
go into a bit of detail, such as the size of the box(es), freezer
requirements, and the nature of your cruising, you might get better
advice. For example, if you cruise in cold water, a water cooled system
would be more efficient. But if you power each day (or run a genset for
A/C) then the power issues might not be important to you.

I have larger Crosby (actually part of A/B) holding plate system for a
separate fridge and freezer system that I've had a love/hate relationship
with. When I pull a steak out of the freezer that's frozen down to zero
degrees, I'm happy. But when I don't need the freezer, its a real
annoyance to use 70 to 100 Amp-hours a day on the system. And of course,
one small leak and the whole system is down. (This happened twice in 7
seasons, and both times was detected in home port, not while traveling.)

If I were building my system now, I might consider having two systems
based on the new Danfoss compressors. While perhaps not the most
efficient in total, having two systems for the two boxes would give more
flexibility in case one is lost.

Danfoss is the "hermetic" sealed compressor your A/B is based on, and is
used in most of the smaller systems today. Of course, the units have
changed in the last 20 years, and each company has some "special
technology" that makes theirs the best. You might look over
www.rparts.com to get a free education about the components in use today.
They carry the latest Danfoss units and this will give you a baseline to
see if you're getting your money's worth from whichever system you decide
on.





Dick Behan wrote:

The 20-year-old Adler/Barbour unit on our Victory Tug has expired. Can't
complain about the service, but what do you cruisers out there think
about replacing it? Go with Adler/Barbour again, or is there a more
up-to-date technology (and product) you'd recommend as superior?
TIA.

Dick Behan
M/V ANNIE

Again, this may be true, but it might not be appropriate for all
systems. Adding a thru-hull and more components probably isn't worth
a few Amp-hours savings.

From Richard Kollman's site:

28. Question: Why would I want air cooling when water is more efficient?

Answer: Boat refrigeration systems smaller than ¼ HP are generally
air cooled for best performance and long term reliability. There are
few conditions where the seawater cooling can out perform air cooling
on these small units. To dispose of the heat in a boat from a small
Danfoss refrigeration system is about the same as disposing of the
heat generated from one person onboard, three hundred BTUs per hour.
It is true that heat from larger refrigeration systems must use
seawater because the heat can not be disposed adequately of onboard a
boat.

http://www.kollmann-marine.com/answers.html#28


And, what kind of pump is only a half Amp? Most of the circulating
pumps for DC belt driven systems seem to take an Amp or more. The
traditional March 809, for example, is rated at 1.5 Amps. Of course,
the pump for a Danfoss system could be much smaller.

Doug Dotson wrote:
The water pump on my system draws less than 1/2 amp. Using a water-cooled
system saves enough energy to more than offset the overhead of the pump.

Doug

"Jeff" wrote in message
...

It may be true that water cooled is usually more efficient, but for a
minimal system based on a BD35, the added efficiency may not be worth the
power use of a water pump. This is a small issue with a large holding
plate system because it only runs one or two hours a day, but the small
evaporator based system may run 8 hours a day, and the water pump would
then add a lot of overhead. And, it adds a through-hull, strainer and
plumbing, and can get clogged with silt. This may be worthwhile Downeast,
where the water is 52 degrees, but might not be in the tropics.

Doug Dotson wrote:

A water-cooled unit is always more efficient than an air-cooled unit.
Unless
somehow the air temp gets cool for a long period while the water temp
stays
high. Not very common. This is why all the larger units are water-cooled.

Doug
s/v Callista


"Jeff" wrote in message
...


A lot depends on the size of your fridge and how you use it. If you can
go into a bit of detail, such as the size of the box(es), freezer
requirements, and the nature of your cruising, you might get better
advice. For example, if you cruise in cold water, a water cooled system
would be more efficient. But if you power each day (or run a genset for
A/C) then the power issues might not be important to you.

I have larger Crosby (actually part of A/B) holding plate system for a
separate fridge and freezer system that I've had a love/hate relationship
with. When I pull a steak out of the freezer that's frozen down to zero
degrees, I'm happy. But when I don't need the freezer, its a real
annoyance to use 70 to 100 Amp-hours a day on the system. And of course,
one small leak and the whole system is down. (This happened twice in 7
seasons, and both times was detected in home port, not while traveling.)

If I were building my system now, I might consider having two systems
based on the new Danfoss compressors. While perhaps not the most
efficient in total, having two systems for the two boxes would give more
flexibility in case one is lost.

Danfoss is the "hermetic" sealed compressor your A/B is based on, and is
used in most of the smaller systems today. Of course, the units have
changed in the last 20 years, and each company has some "special
technology" that makes theirs the best. You might look over
www.rparts.com to get a free education about the components in use today.
They carry the latest Danfoss units and this will give you a baseline to
see if you're getting your money's worth from whichever system you decide
on.





Dick Behan wrote:


The 20-year-old Adler/Barbour unit on our Victory Tug has expired. Can't
complain about the service, but what do you cruisers out there think
about replacing it? Go with Adler/Barbour again, or is there a more
up-to-date technology (and product) you'd recommend as superior?
TIA.

Dick Behan
M/V ANNIE

Jeff wrote:

Again, this may be true, but it might not be appropriate for all
systems. Adding a thru-hull and more components probably isn't worth a
few Amp-hours savings.

From Richard Kollman's site:

28. Question: Why would I want air cooling when water is more efficient?

Answer: Boat refrigeration systems smaller than ¼ HP are generally air
cooled for best performance and long term reliability. There are few
conditions where the seawater cooling can out perform air cooling on
these small units. To dispose of the heat in a boat from a small Danfoss
refrigeration system is about the same as disposing of the heat
generated from one person onboard, three hundred BTUs per hour. It is
true that heat from larger refrigeration systems must use seawater
because the heat can not be disposed adequately of onboard a boat.

http://www.kollmann-marine.com/answers.html#28


And, what kind of pump is only a half Amp? Most of the circulating
pumps for DC belt driven systems seem to take an Amp or more. The
traditional March 809, for example, is rated at 1.5 Amps. Of course,
the pump for a Danfoss system could be much smaller.

Doug Dotson wrote:

The water pump on my system draws less than 1/2 amp. Using a water-cooled
system saves enough energy to more than offset the overhead of the pump.

Doug

"Jeff" wrote in message
...

It may be true that water cooled is usually more efficient, but for a
minimal system based on a BD35, the added efficiency may not be worth
the power use of a water pump. This is a small issue with a large
holding plate system because it only runs one or two hours a day, but
the small evaporator based system may run 8 hours a day, and the
water pump would then add a lot of overhead. And, it adds a
through-hull, strainer and plumbing, and can get clogged with silt.
This may be worthwhile Downeast, where the water is 52 degrees, but
might not be in the tropics.

Doug Dotson wrote:

A water-cooled unit is always more efficient than an air-cooled
unit. Unless
somehow the air temp gets cool for a long period while the water
temp stays
high. Not very common. This is why all the larger units are
water-cooled.

Doug
s/v Callista


"Jeff" wrote in message
...


A lot depends on the size of your fridge and how you use it. If
you can go into a bit of detail, such as the size of the box(es),
freezer requirements, and the nature of your cruising, you might
get better advice. For example, if you cruise in cold water, a
water cooled system would be more efficient. But if you power each
day (or run a genset for A/C) then the power issues might not be
important to you.

I have larger Crosby (actually part of A/B) holding plate system
for a separate fridge and freezer system that I've had a love/hate
relationship with. When I pull a steak out of the freezer that's
frozen down to zero degrees, I'm happy. But when I don't need the
freezer, its a real annoyance to use 70 to 100 Amp-hours a day on
the system. And of course, one small leak and the whole system is
down. (This happened twice in 7 seasons, and both times was
detected in home port, not while traveling.)

If I were building my system now, I might consider having two
systems based on the new Danfoss compressors. While perhaps not
the most efficient in total, having two systems for the two boxes
would give more flexibility in case one is lost.

Danfoss is the "hermetic" sealed compressor your A/B is based on,
and is used in most of the smaller systems today. Of course, the
units have changed in the last 20 years, and each company has some
"special technology" that makes theirs the best. You might look
over www.rparts.com to get a free education about the components in
use today. They carry the latest Danfoss units and this will give
you a baseline to see if you're getting your money's worth from
whichever system you decide on.





Dick Behan wrote:


The 20-year-old Adler/Barbour unit on our Victory Tug has expired.
Can't complain about the service, but what do you cruisers out
there think about replacing it? Go with Adler/Barbour again, or
is there a more up-to-date technology (and product) you'd
recommend as superior?
TIA.

Dick Behan
M/V ANNIE





My little electric frige has a warm plate at the rear, more or less
surrounded by cabinetry. My engine room vent inlet passes nearby.
I wonder if venting the warm plate to the vent pipe using a dryer
air box switch might provide some benefits during warm or even cold
weather, depending on the airbox switch?

First, would such a vent improve the efficiency of my frige?

I am presuming that the engine would suck in the frige heat without
any complications, and that there is enough rise in the intake side
for when the engine is asleep. Hmmm.

Would I benefit from blowing a fan into the open frige on a hot
night? Maybe cooling down just for long enough to doze off in the
saloon table hammock?

Terry K

"Terry Spragg" wrote in message
...
Jeff wrote:

Again, this may be true, but it might not be appropriate for all systems.
Adding a thru-hull and more components probably isn't worth a few
Amp-hours savings.

From Richard Kollman's site:

28. Question: Why would I want air cooling when water is more efficient?

Answer: Boat refrigeration systems smaller than ¼ HP are generally air
cooled for best performance and long term reliability. There are few
conditions where the seawater cooling can out perform air cooling on
these small units. To dispose of the heat in a boat from a small Danfoss
refrigeration system is about the same as disposing of the heat generated
from one person onboard, three hundred BTUs per hour. It is true that
heat from larger refrigeration systems must use seawater because the heat
can not be disposed adequately of onboard a boat.

http://www.kollmann-marine.com/answers.html#28


And, what kind of pump is only a half Amp? Most of the circulating pumps
for DC belt driven systems seem to take an Amp or more. The traditional
March 809, for example, is rated at 1.5 Amps. Of course, the pump for a
Danfoss system could be much smaller.

Doug Dotson wrote:

The water pump on my system draws less than 1/2 amp. Using a
water-cooled
system saves enough energy to more than offset the overhead of the pump.

Doug

"Jeff" wrote in message
...

It may be true that water cooled is usually more efficient, but for a
minimal system based on a BD35, the added efficiency may not be worth
the power use of a water pump. This is a small issue with a large
holding plate system because it only runs one or two hours a day, but
the small evaporator based system may run 8 hours a day, and the water
pump would then add a lot of overhead. And, it adds a through-hull,
strainer and plumbing, and can get clogged with silt. This may be
worthwhile Downeast, where the water is 52 degrees, but might not be in
the tropics.

Doug Dotson wrote:

A water-cooled unit is always more efficient than an air-cooled unit.
Unless
somehow the air temp gets cool for a long period while the water temp
stays
high. Not very common. This is why all the larger units are
water-cooled.

Doug
s/v Callista


"Jeff" wrote in message
...


A lot depends on the size of your fridge and how you use it. If you
can go into a bit of detail, such as the size of the box(es), freezer
requirements, and the nature of your cruising, you might get better
advice. For example, if you cruise in cold water, a water cooled
system would be more efficient. But if you power each day (or run a
genset for A/C) then the power issues might not be important to you.

I have larger Crosby (actually part of A/B) holding plate system for
a separate fridge and freezer system that I've had a love/hate
relationship with. When I pull a steak out of the freezer that's
frozen down to zero degrees, I'm happy. But when I don't need the
freezer, its a real annoyance to use 70 to 100 Amp-hours a day on the
system. And of course, one small leak and the whole system is down.
(This happened twice in 7 seasons, and both times was detected in
home port, not while traveling.)

If I were building my system now, I might consider having two systems
based on the new Danfoss compressors. While perhaps not the most
efficient in total, having two systems for the two boxes would give
more flexibility in case one is lost.

Danfoss is the "hermetic" sealed compressor your A/B is based on, and
is used in most of the smaller systems today. Of course, the units
have changed in the last 20 years, and each company has some "special
technology" that makes theirs the best. You might look over
www.rparts.com to get a free education about the components in use
today. They carry the latest Danfoss units and this will give you a
baseline to see if you're getting your money's worth from whichever
system you decide on.





Dick Behan wrote:


The 20-year-old Adler/Barbour unit on our Victory Tug has expired.
Can't complain about the service, but what do you cruisers out there
think about replacing it? Go with Adler/Barbour again, or is there
a more up-to-date technology (and product) you'd recommend as
superior?
TIA.

Dick Behan
M/V ANNIE





My little electric frige has a warm plate at the rear, more or less
surrounded by cabinetry. My engine room vent inlet passes nearby. I
wonder if venting the warm plate to the vent pipe using a dryer air box
switch might provide some benefits during warm or even cold weather,
depending on the airbox switch?

First, would such a vent improve the efficiency of my frige?

As long as the air you are providing is cooler that what it would otherwise
see.

I am presuming that the engine would suck in the frige heat without any
complications, and that there is enough rise in the intake side for when
the engine is asleep. Hmmm.

Hmmmm is right

Would I benefit from blowing a fan into the open frige on a hot night?
Maybe cooling down just for long enough to doze off in the saloon table
hammock?

You're kidding, right?

Terry K

I agree. There are situations where air-cooled units are more practical. But
trying
to say the the current draw of a water pump is somehow a factor vs the
current
draw of the fan in an air-cooled unit doesn't really hold. As to whether a
thru-hull
and a few more feet of hose represents a negative aspect is up to the
individual.
Water cooling isn't restricted to holding plate systems. Even AB offers
water-cooling
options for their evaporator systems.

Doug
s/v Callista

"Jeff" wrote in message
...
Again, this may be true, but it might not be appropriate for all systems.
Adding a thru-hull and more components probably isn't worth a few
Amp-hours savings.

From Richard Kollman's site:

28. Question: Why would I want air cooling when water is more efficient?

Answer: Boat refrigeration systems smaller than ¼ HP are generally air
cooled for best performance and long term reliability. There are few
conditions where the seawater cooling can out perform air cooling on these
small units. To dispose of the heat in a boat from a small Danfoss
refrigeration system is about the same as disposing of the heat generated
from one person onboard, three hundred BTUs per hour. It is true that heat
from larger refrigeration systems must use seawater because the heat can
not be disposed adequately of onboard a boat.

http://www.kollmann-marine.com/answers.html#28


And, what kind of pump is only a half Amp? Most of the circulating pumps
for DC belt driven systems seem to take an Amp or more. The traditional
March 809, for example, is rated at 1.5 Amps. Of course, the pump for a
Danfoss system could be much smaller.

Doug Dotson wrote:
The water pump on my system draws less than 1/2 amp. Using a water-cooled
system saves enough energy to more than offset the overhead of the pump.

Doug

"Jeff" wrote in message
...

It may be true that water cooled is usually more efficient, but for a
minimal system based on a BD35, the added efficiency may not be worth the
power use of a water pump. This is a small issue with a large holding
plate system because it only runs one or two hours a day, but the small
evaporator based system may run 8 hours a day, and the water pump would
then add a lot of overhead. And, it adds a through-hull, strainer and
plumbing, and can get clogged with silt. This may be worthwhile
Downeast, where the water is 52 degrees, but might not be in the tropics.

Doug Dotson wrote:

A water-cooled unit is always more efficient than an air-cooled unit.
Unless
somehow the air temp gets cool for a long period while the water temp
stays
high. Not very common. This is why all the larger units are
water-cooled.

Doug
s/v Callista


"Jeff" wrote in message
...


A lot depends on the size of your fridge and how you use it. If you
can go into a bit of detail, such as the size of the box(es), freezer
requirements, and the nature of your cruising, you might get better
advice. For example, if you cruise in cold water, a water cooled system
would be more efficient. But if you power each day (or run a genset
for A/C) then the power issues might not be important to you.

I have larger Crosby (actually part of A/B) holding plate system for a
separate fridge and freezer system that I've had a love/hate
relationship with. When I pull a steak out of the freezer that's
frozen down to zero degrees, I'm happy. But when I don't need the
freezer, its a real annoyance to use 70 to 100 Amp-hours a day on the
system. And of course, one small leak and the whole system is down.
(This happened twice in 7 seasons, and both times was detected in home
port, not while traveling.)

If I were building my system now, I might consider having two systems
based on the new Danfoss compressors. While perhaps not the most
efficient in total, having two systems for the two boxes would give
more flexibility in case one is lost.

Danfoss is the "hermetic" sealed compressor your A/B is based on, and
is used in most of the smaller systems today. Of course, the units
have changed in the last 20 years, and each company has some "special
technology" that makes theirs the best. You might look over
www.rparts.com to get a free education about the components in use
today. They carry the latest Danfoss units and this will give you a
baseline to see if you're getting your money's worth from whichever
system you decide on.





Dick Behan wrote:


The 20-year-old Adler/Barbour unit on our Victory Tug has expired.
Can't complain about the service, but what do you cruisers out there
think about replacing it? Go with Adler/Barbour again, or is there a
more up-to-date technology (and product) you'd recommend as superior?
TIA.

Dick Behan
M/V ANNIE

Jeff wrote:
Again, this may be true, but it might not be appropriate for all
systems. Adding a thru-hull and more components probably isn't worth a
few Amp-hours savings.


It's more than that... water cooling may save a lot o' bucks by using a
smaller unit. And it's more desirable in the tropics, where the ambient
air temp is higher. As air temp gets above the 80s, trying to air cool a
refrig'n condenser gets to be a losing proposition.

Another alternative is the keel cooler. At least two companies now are
making thru-hulls chambered & fitted for refrigeration keel cooling, so
you don't have to drill any more holes in your hull.

Some may be interested in my current project, 98% complete at this
point: installing a freezer built into our dinette seat. After a LOT of
research and spreadsheeting all the numbers, I decided on a Waeco
(Adler-Barbour) CU-84 (based on the Danfoss BD-35) air cooled
refrigeration unit, with an exhaust to the outside. The box is insulated
on 5 sides with R-28 vacuum panels. I am currently finishing the lids, a
relatively demanding bit of fiberglassing that I don't recommend.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...89712634CcPfiT
(next 7 pics)

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

DSK wrote:
Jeff wrote:

Again, this may be true, but it might not be appropriate for all
systems. Adding a thru-hull and more components probably isn't worth
a few Amp-hours savings.


It's more than that... water cooling may save a lot o' bucks by using a
smaller unit. And it's more desirable in the tropics, where the ambient
air temp is higher. As air temp gets above the 80s, trying to air cool a
refrig'n condenser gets to be a losing proposition.

So you chose air cooled. How come?

One of the little ironies is that in cold water, the air in the bilge
may be much cooler than on deck or in the engine room. I never
bothered to measure, but I wonder if that's also true in the tropics.

As for savings - the cost difference between the BD50 and BD35 is
pretty small - certainly much less than a through hull, pump, and
condenser. However, once you get larger its clear that water cooling
has advantages.

BTW, my father-in-law, an HVAC engineer and inventor, rigged up his
home A/C to heat the swimming pool water with the waste heat. It
worked great for a number of years, but now that he's 84 and his war
injuries have caught up to him, he has trouble maintaining it. With
the extra plumbing, its possible to loose the pool water, and then be
without both pool and A/C.


Another alternative is the keel cooler. At least two companies now are
making thru-hulls chambered & fitted for refrigeration keel cooling, so
you don't have to drill any more holes in your hull.

Some may be interested in my current project, 98% complete at this
point: installing a freezer built into our dinette seat. After a LOT of
research and spreadsheeting all the numbers, I decided on a Waeco
(Adler-Barbour) CU-84 (based on the Danfoss BD-35) air cooled
refrigeration unit, with an exhaust to the outside. The box is insulated
on 5 sides with R-28 vacuum panels. I am currently finishing the lids, a
relatively demanding bit of fiberglassing that I don't recommend.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...89712634CcPfiT
(next 7 pics)

I like this setup. As I've mentioned before, using one compressor for
both fridge and freezer can be a problem. The BD35 gives a lot of
bang for the buck.



Fresh Breezes- Doug King

"Jeff" wrote in message
...


DSK wrote:
Jeff wrote:

Again, this may be true, but it might not be appropriate for all
systems. Adding a thru-hull and more components probably isn't worth a
few Amp-hours savings.


It's more than that... water cooling may save a lot o' bucks by using a
smaller unit. And it's more desirable in the tropics, where the ambient
air temp is higher. As air temp gets above the 80s, trying to air cool a
refrig'n condenser gets to be a losing proposition.

So you chose air cooled. How come?

One of the little ironies is that in cold water, the air in the bilge may
be much cooler than on deck or in the engine room. I never bothered to
measure, but I wonder if that's also true in the tropics.

As for savings - the cost difference between the BD50 and BD35 is pretty
small - certainly much less than a through hull, pump, and condenser.
However, once you get larger its clear that water cooling has advantages.

BTW, my father-in-law, an HVAC engineer and inventor, rigged up his home
A/C to heat the swimming pool water with the waste heat. It worked great
for a number of years, but now that he's 84 and his war injuries have
caught up to him, he has trouble maintaining it. With the extra plumbing,
its possible to loose the pool water, and then be without both pool and
A/C.


Another alternative is the keel cooler. At least two companies now are
making thru-hulls chambered & fitted for refrigeration keel cooling, so
you don't have to drill any more holes in your hull.

Some may be interested in my current project, 98% complete at this point:
installing a freezer built into our dinette seat. After a LOT of research
and spreadsheeting all the numbers, I decided on a Waeco (Adler-Barbour)
CU-84 (based on the Danfoss BD-35) air cooled refrigeration unit, with an
exhaust to the outside. The box is insulated on 5 sides with R-28 vacuum
panels. I am currently finishing the lids, a relatively demanding bit of
fiberglassing that I don't recommend.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...89712634CcPfiT
(next 7 pics)

I like this setup. As I've mentioned before, using one compressor for
both fridge and freezer can be a problem. The BD35 gives a lot of bang
for the buck.



Fresh Breezes- Doug King


I've gotten great service out of my spillover system. Cold plates in the
freezer only.
Thermostacally controlled vent into the fridge side. Large boxes. Probably 3
cuft
in the freezer and 12 cuft in the fridge.

Doug
s/v Callista

Doug Dotson wrote:
I like this setup. As I've mentioned before, using one compressor for
both fridge and freezer can be a problem. The BD35 gives a lot of bang
for the buck.

I've gotten great service out of my spillover system. Cold plates in the
freezer only.
Thermostacally controlled vent into the fridge side. Large boxes. Probably 3
cuft
in the freezer and 12 cuft in the fridge.


Then you really don't have a two box system. And, as with mine, you
have no way to run the fridge only. If you truly had two boxes with
two compressors, as I assume DSK has, then you have the option of
shutting down the freezer to save energy, plus you have a backup.

I have nothing against spillover systems, and your compressor system
is probably almost identical to mine. I'm just pointing out
possibilities that might work for different situations.