I would not rely on the bottom paint to adhere. Sand off the bottom
paint, and clean, dewax, etc. Grind around the area to bare glass;
clean and dewax again. Fill in with epoxy as above, and lay some glass
down as you've done. This should cost you less than your $70, but will
require additional work in the winter
Y

Any guess on whether it will last a few trips out on the Lake this
summer?

joeb wrote:
Any guess on whether it will last a few trips out on the Lake this
summer?

*NOT* if its an ablative antifouling :-(
OTOH as long as the keel is fully sealed at the top, what are the
consequences of it loosening a bit and leaking some? It isnt going to
come right off as the side was ground back and the bottom should be
fairly well interlocked with the rough edges of the original hole. You
know the encapsulated ballast is cast lead so no corrosion issues and
the only remaining problem is frost damage. This just isn't going to
happen as long as you remain afloat in *FRESH* water and as long as
after hauling out, you drill some drainage holes to let the keel dry out
(worth doing anyway before reworking the repair next winter) *BEFORE*
its exposed to any frost. IMHO go sailing while you can, additional
damage & expense will be negligable. YMMV
--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & 32K emails -- NUL:
'Stingo' Albacore #1554 - 15' Early 60's, Uffa Fox designed,
All varnished hot moulded wooden racing dinghy.

That's what I wanted to hear. Thanks for the advice. Last time I went
out, when I put the hole in it, I didn't have a bilge pump so I had to
bail water by hand. This time, I'll bring a pump.

joeb wrote:
That's what I wanted to hear. Thanks for the advice. Last time I went
out, when I put the hole in it, I didn't have a bilge pump so I had to
bail water by hand. This time, I'll bring a pump.

Are you trying to tell me the top of the keel is NOT sealed and any
water that gets in there goes into your bilge? If so, DONT put her back
in till you've made SURE the patch cant leak.

--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & 32K emails -- NUL:
'Stingo' Albacore #1554 - 15' Early 60's, Uffa Fox designed,
All varnished hot moulded wooden racing dinghy.

The top of the keel is definitely not sealed. When I put the hole in
the bottom of the keel, I took on about 4 inches of water in the cabin
before making it back to shore.

joeb wrote:
The top of the keel is definitely not sealed. When I put the hole in
the bottom of the keel, I took on about 4 inches of water in the cabin
before making it back to shore.

Well I'd be glassing an extra layer on the bottom, washing with water
first to remove any amine blush, drying then wiping down with methylated
spirits or acetone to get the last of the water off, then filing back
the previous patch and the paint around it with a coarse wood rasp to
get a clean keyed surface, then brushing all the dust off, solvent
wiping it twice, celulose thinners then acetone then glassing it with 2
layers of cloth, wetted out on a polythene sheet on the bench using
epoxy thickened with collodial silica till it will hold a peak like
merange mix applied onto more of the thickened epoxy, smooth out any
bubbles and the polythene sheet should be held on till it sets with duct
tape. Then I could sleep at night if she's kept afloat for the rest of
the season. It would STILL want grinding back properly in the winter.

At the moment all that is keeping the water out is epoxy on top of paint
*WHICH IS DESIGNED* TO SLOWLY COME OFF UNDERWATER. :-(


--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & 32K emails -- NUL:
'Stingo' Albacore #1554 - 15' Early 60's, Uffa Fox designed,
All varnished hot moulded wooden racing dinghy.