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#1
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![]() Just to clarify my origianl post: Cost is not a concern here with respect to running large wires from the house battery to the windlass location. However the path for running large wires is horrible. I am not even sure I can get 4 or 6 AWG wires through the limited space. That is why I am strongly considering a windlass battery up forward in the anchor locker. I would MUCH prefer not having the maintenance issues associated with yet another battery but I really don't have a lot of options. Thanks |
#2
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#3
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Gogarty wrote:
In article , says... Just to clarify my origianl post: Cost is not a concern here with respect to running large wires from the house battery to the windlass location. However the path for running large wires is horrible. I am not even sure I can get 4 or 6 AWG wires through the limited space. That is why I am strongly considering a windlass battery up forward in the anchor locker. I would MUCH prefer not having the maintenance issues associated with yet another battery but I really don't have a lot of options. Weelll. Why didn't you say so? What boat is it? 1st line in my original post starting this thread: "I want to install a windlass, but cabling it from my batteries with large wires is a major job." |
#4
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In article ,
Doin it right wrote: Just to clarify my origianl post: Cost is not a concern here with respect to running large wires from the house battery to the windlass location. However the path for running large wires is horrible. I am not even sure I can get 4 or 6 AWG wires through the limited space. That is why I am strongly considering a windlass battery up forward in the anchor locker. I would MUCH prefer not having the maintenance issues associated with yet another battery but I really don't have a lot of options. Thanks ?? Are you sure you mean 4-6 AWG? I run 1/0 or 2/0 for lesser loads (my starter, only 6' away). Made a real difference when I switched from essentially a car battery cable. Too lazy to look it up, but my gut tells me that I'd use 4-6 to a battery up there, solely to charge it. From the battery to the windlass I would use BIG wire. You're not going to push 100+ amps through a little bitty LONG wire without a lot of drop, which will demand more amperage, which will create more drop.... Yes, it may work, but... -- Jere Lull Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD) Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
#5
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Jere Lull wrote:
In article , Doin it right wrote: Just to clarify my origianl post: Cost is not a concern here with respect to running large wires from the house battery to the windlass location. However the path for running large wires is horrible. I am not even sure I can get 4 or 6 AWG wires through the limited space. That is why I am strongly considering a windlass battery up forward in the anchor locker. I would MUCH prefer not having the maintenance issues associated with yet another battery but I really don't have a lot of options. Thanks ?? Are you sure you mean 4-6 AWG? I run 1/0 or 2/0 for lesser loads (my starter, only 6' away). Made a real difference when I switched from essentially a car battery cable. Too lazy to look it up, but my gut tells me that I'd use 4-6 to a battery up there, solely to charge it. From the battery to the windlass I would use BIG wire. You're not going to push 100+ amps through a little bitty LONG wire without a lot of drop, which will demand more amperage, which will create more drop.... Yes, it may work, but... I would never run #4 or 6 to POWER a windlass. YES I KNOW that 1/0 or bigger is needed to drive a large current device like a windlass. My issue is one of accomodating wires of that size through the boat from the house bank. I am instead considering installing a dedicated windlass battery up in the anchor locker. If I go that route I will run 4 or 6 awg to charge that battery and add a breaker at the house bank/charger. And to clarify your post, let me make a correction. What you meant to say was: You're not going to push 100+ amps through a little bitty LONG wire without a HUGE voltage drop that will reduce the power the windlass while simultaneously generating a lot of HEAT and a resulting fire... ![]() |
#6
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In article ,
Doin it right wrote: I would never run #4 or 6 to POWER a windlass. YES I KNOW that 1/0 or bigger is needed to drive a large current device like a windlass. Just checking, as some DON't know. ;-) -- Jere Lull Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD) Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
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