My apologies for taking so long to get this info. I've been living on
the boat full time while I refit in a frenzy, trying to beat the
deadline of having to go in for surgery, already once delayed. The
data was at home, 650 miles away, where I went last weekend.

So, here you go:

www.1coolpc.com for the low-draw fans. I used Vantec
http://www.1coolpc.com/stealth.htm 120mm Stealth (.08A, 53CFM, 1500RPM,
$17) for the spillover and two 60mm Stealth (08A, 12CFM, 2600RPM,$9).
His standard deal is to throw in a freebie fan, too

www.electronix.com for the NO/NC reed magnetic microswitches. I used
part 97-132, $1.99 each
http://www.electronix.com/catalog/pr...ducts_id/12714

I'm going to be using 2x 3-cluster (White - ULITE-W3, $3.95) LEDs
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...i?product=UTIL
to light the reefer, and one to light the freezer. The switch will
turn on the LED, and turn off the circulating fans and the spillover
fan, when the door is opened. I'll also use these microswitches and
the 3-cluster LEDs for dim lighting in each of the closets and storage
areas with doors. For about 6 bux and negligible other costs, as I'll
do them myself, we'll always be able to see what's in the closet.

Right now, I'm playing with LED rope lighting, having just gotten my
first roll, red. So far I've only cut one section, and will put it
next to the 4' fluorescent that I put up in the walkthrough/workshop,
with an on/off/on red/white switch. However, until I take that fixture
down to make the mounting for it, I've got it draped over a couple of
places in the nav station.

There's ample light to read by, but it's red, hallelujah, for night
vision. This segment is spoken for, and thus not any other than just
draped, but I'd have to figure out how to mount it so it was tastefully
seen/not seen, and not in a position to shine in my eyes. Behind the
fixture in the walkthrough, it will be stupendous. I'm hopeful, as
easy as it appears to work with (aside from having to figure out how to
mount it so it doesn't look like Christmas decoration, easy in
under-cabinet and behind-fascia locations but not necessarily so
everywhere), that I'll be able to do ambient lighting in amber in most
places, but in particular, in the cockpit, for the most-of-the-time
leisure we'll spend there. I'm leaning toward running up the bows of
the bimini, if I could manage it, and just put the red on the binnacle
frame,as in the 8' or so of that length, there would be ample red light
- perhaps even too much, and I'd want to make it smaller. Red (and
amber) light is about .15A per meter, so we don't have to be stingy
with the length!

Amortized, if I were to do 4' sections for each light (which, of
course, could be longer or shorter, with ~1" per bulb in the rope),
adding the additional cost of extra plugs, each would be under $10.
It's only because I'm adding the 1.95 per extra plug that it's that
much, as 5 come with the roll, along with 150 mounting clips. Max run
for 12V operations is ~20m - but that only affects my original thought
of outlining my stays at anchor, an admittedly affectatious thought
based on, several years ago, having seen a marvelous schooner so rigged
during one of the legs of a circumnav with my ex-father-in-law where we
crewed in order to see if Lydia really wanted to do this :{))

Hope this is helpful to those who asked, and again I apologize for the
delay.

L8R

Skip, refitting as fast as I can


Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2 - The vessel as Tehamana, as we bought her

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails.
Explore.
Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain

Hi Skip,

You might want to make sure you can easily replace the reed switches,
and carry spares. Why? When I was a component engineer years ago,
I did exhaustive testing of switches. Reed switches in general had a
short life span. Switches rated for 100,000 cycles sometimes had a
one sigma life of 5,000 or so. Some brands only lasted 300 - 500 cycles
at rated load.
As with most components, stressing a part to 25% or less of its rating
greatly extends its life.
Norm B

On 7 Jul 2005 16:48:26 -0700, "Skip Gundlach" wrote:

My apologies for taking so long to get this info. I've been living on
the boat full time while I refit in a frenzy, trying to beat the
deadline of having to go in for surgery, already once delayed. The
data was at home, 650 miles away, where I went last weekend.

So, here you go:

www.1coolpc.com for the low-draw fans. I used Vantec
http://www.1coolpc.com/stealth.htm 120mm Stealth (.08A, 53CFM, 1500RPM,
$17) for the spillover and two 60mm Stealth (08A, 12CFM, 2600RPM,$9).
His standard deal is to throw in a freebie fan, too

www.electronix.com for the NO/NC reed magnetic microswitches. I used
part 97-132, $1.99 each
http://www.electronix.com/catalog/pr...ducts_id/12714

I'm going to be using 2x 3-cluster (White - ULITE-W3, $3.95) LEDs
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...i?product=UTIL
to light the reefer, and one to light the freezer. The switch will
turn on the LED, and turn off the circulating fans and the spillover
fan, when the door is opened. I'll also use these microswitches and
the 3-cluster LEDs for dim lighting in each of the closets and storage
areas with doors. For about 6 bux and negligible other costs, as I'll
do them myself, we'll always be able to see what's in the closet.

Right now, I'm playing with LED rope lighting, having just gotten my
first roll, red. So far I've only cut one section, and will put it
next to the 4' fluorescent that I put up in the walkthrough/workshop,
with an on/off/on red/white switch. However, until I take that fixture
down to make the mounting for it, I've got it draped over a couple of
places in the nav station.

There's ample light to read by, but it's red, hallelujah, for night
vision. This segment is spoken for, and thus not any other than just
draped, but I'd have to figure out how to mount it so it was tastefully
seen/not seen, and not in a position to shine in my eyes. Behind the
fixture in the walkthrough, it will be stupendous. I'm hopeful, as
easy as it appears to work with (aside from having to figure out how to
mount it so it doesn't look like Christmas decoration, easy in
under-cabinet and behind-fascia locations but not necessarily so
everywhere), that I'll be able to do ambient lighting in amber in most
places, but in particular, in the cockpit, for the most-of-the-time
leisure we'll spend there. I'm leaning toward running up the bows of
the bimini, if I could manage it, and just put the red on the binnacle
frame,as in the 8' or so of that length, there would be ample red light
- perhaps even too much, and I'd want to make it smaller. Red (and
amber) light is about .15A per meter, so we don't have to be stingy
with the length!

Amortized, if I were to do 4' sections for each light (which, of
course, could be longer or shorter, with ~1" per bulb in the rope),
adding the additional cost of extra plugs, each would be under $10.
It's only because I'm adding the 1.95 per extra plug that it's that
much, as 5 come with the roll, along with 150 mounting clips. Max run
for 12V operations is ~20m - but that only affects my original thought
of outlining my stays at anchor, an admittedly affectatious thought
based on, several years ago, having seen a marvelous schooner so rigged
during one of the legs of a circumnav with my ex-father-in-law where we
crewed in order to see if Lydia really wanted to do this :{))

Hope this is helpful to those who asked, and again I apologize for the
delay.

L8R

Skip, refitting as fast as I can


Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2 - The vessel as Tehamana, as we bought her

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails.
Explore.
Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain

Hi, Norm, and thanks for the comments.

I believe our use will be very light to the purpose. The current will
be quite small, and the frequency of operation, likewise relatively
small.

In any case, with screw-terminal connections, at $1.99, I can afford to
(easily) replace one if it fails. There are none in any critical
application considered. None will be difficult to access, as they're
surface mounts.

OTOH, having had a background consulting with/to the security alarm
business for some years long ago, I saw that the the 1/4 inch
drill-mount reeds were sometimes prone to failure, and, of course, very
much more difficult to replace. That led to the development of
nickel-sized screw-in tops, so that the switch could be pulled out and
replaced, later.

As with all of my refit, I'll eventually be reporting on my success or
failure with these.

Right now, we're enjoying a band relief, having had a dose of Dennis
this afternoon with winds to 40 knots+, and lots of rain. Then,
clearing, but continued howling of distant halyards and shrouds,
followed in about an hour by another heavy dose of rain, straight down
that time. It's not raining any more, and winds are light.

However, I'm expecting some heavy weather before long, which will be a
good test of all the rebedding we've done. So far, all the rain in the
last few weeks I've been aboard has been uneventful - but it didn't
have much wind with it...

L8R

Skip, refitting as fast as I can!

Posting from Googlegroups since I can't get to my newsgroups while wifi
surfing!

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2 - The vessel as Tehamana, as we bought her

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails.
Explore.
Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain

On 8 Jul 2005 18:40:12 -0700, "Skip Gundlach" wrote:

snip
However, I'm expecting some heavy weather before long, which will be a
good test of all the rebedding we've done. So far, all the rain in the
last few weeks I've been aboard has been uneventful - but it didn't
have much wind with it...
snip

When you get a chance, unless you already have, please post a detailed
account of how you re-bedded "stuff". That's where I'm at, at the moment.
LOL..I've shut off most of the water, but gentle rains still fill the bilge.
Norm B

snip

When you get a chance, unless you already have, please post a detailed
account of how you re-bedded "stuff". That's where I'm at, at the
moment.
LOL..I've shut off most of the water, but gentle rains still fill the
bilge.
Norm B

Hi, Norm, and group,

I took off literally anything which had a bolt through the deck, and
filled those bolt/screw holes with Plumber's putty while I did other
things. Those were stopgaps, as water got in in some substance.

When it was time to rebed, two things: First, each hole was
countersunk. That way, when tightening, the caulk is forced down the
hole, as well as acting like a compression washer.

Secondly, each item was liberally coated underneath, and as much as
possible, any hole (like wiring, e.g.) forced with caulk. Then, each
was merely snugged down. You can do even more, but we didn't: you can
put a washer under each screw's edge (not around it!) and tighten down,
then remove it in the next step.

After the caulk has had a chance to cure (several days), go below and
retighten everything. That has the effect of making a gasket. You can
prove that by trimming off all the extra caulk which comes out the side
after the first step. When you tighten again, you should have a band
of caulk at the edge of whatever fitting it is you're tightening. Both
in the first step and the second, you should also have had caulk
climbing up the bolt head on the outside, though much less in the
second, of course, cuz it's cured.

In both cases, unless simply impossible, have the topsides person hold
the bolt in place, and tighten from below. That avoids stripping the
caulk out of the hole as it turns.

Once you've done that, pressurize your boat with a yard blower, shopvac
on blow, or the like, put into a convenient hole, such as a hawse pipe,
or, if none convenient, make a companionway dashboard replacement out
of cardboard or light plywood, and put it through a hole in that. Then
go around the boat and spray a very light soap mixture on each and
every screw and bolt head, mast, port, and anywhere else water may
intrude. Bubbles will result in any leak.

If you find a leak, fix it and keep on trucking. Water won't
necessarily go from the leak point directly down, so chasing leaks is a
real bear without doing something like this. You'll have some
down-the-mast inevitable water accumulation - but even a mast can be
mostly sealed up, if you just are aggressive about it, with grommets
and caulk on every wire entry, and caulk on every screw (see above),
some of which will even act to prevent dissimlar metals woes.

HTH...

L8R

Skip, refitting as fast as I can, and off to pre-op, flying up and back
to HotLanta cuz I can't spare the time to drive!

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2 - The vessel as Tehamana, as we bought her

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails.
Explore.
Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain