Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#7
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
In outboats.com "dbraun" writes:
I prefer to drill and tap the cotter pin holes to accept small round head machine screws. The screws (bolts actually) are only screwed in the depth of the turnbuckle screw. Nothing protrudes except the round head of the screw. No need for tape which can cause serious crevice corrosion. I had the privilege of sailing with Rod Stevens years ago when he was chairman of the ship committee for a sail training vessel I was designing. He gave the whole lecture on cotter pins which I think was basically, ends cut short and spread no more than 15 degrees, then taped. The rational, which makes perfect sense to me, is that bending long ends all the way around fatigues and changes the metal so that the bends are susceptible to corrosion and breaking off. The pins then fall out. Slight bends still keep the pins in and do not weaken the cotters. This approach creates sharp snags, thus the tape. The turnbuckles of Rod’s day also had more room to hide the pin ends than the more streamlined fittings found on many boats today. I’m using split rings for the time being and keeping a close eye on them but they have ends that can snag rope and lead to pulling out. It seems to me that stainless steel seizing wire through the hole and around the body with the ends tucked well in might be the best and least snagging approach. I’d like not to depend on tape to protect sails and fingers anymore than necessary. I also object to plastic boots that hide critical components from pre-sail inspection. Any experienced opinions? The neatest way is to get locking nuts. After your rig is in trim, thightten the nuts above and below the middle part of the rigging screw or turbuckle as some like to call it. If you do not trust this, put a drop of locktite under the nut. No taping no cotter pins. If you want a checking point, use some water ressitant felt tim pen, and paint a stripe ower the locking nut and both parts of the turnbuckle. If the three pieces of the line are not aligned, you know that something works. When I use cotter pins I follow Rod Stevens advice and if I have for some reason rings, I tape them by a small piece tape, so that they hang loose and the finla package looks like: |O|. - Lauri Tarkkonen |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
chafing protection, securing to lines | General | |||
Securing bearing buddy's | General |