Securing turnbuckles
 

I had the privilege of sailing with Rod Stevens years ago when he was
chairman of the ship committee for a sail training vessel I was
designing. He gave the whole lecture on cotter pins which I think was
basically, ends cut short and spread no more than 15 degrees, then
taped. The rational, which makes perfect sense to me, is that bending
long ends all the way around fatigues and changes the metal so that
the bends are susceptible to corrosion and breaking off. The pins then
fall out. Slight bends still keep the pins in and do not weaken the
cotters.

This approach creates sharp snags, thus the tape. The turnbuckles of
Rod’s day also had more room to hide the pin ends than the more
streamlined fittings found on many boats today. I’m using split rings
for the time being and keeping a close eye on them but they have ends
that can snag rope and lead to pulling out.

It seems to me that stainless steel seizing wire through the hole and
around the body with the ends tucked well in might be the best and
least snagging approach. I’d like not to depend on tape to protect
sails and fingers anymore than necessary. I also object to plastic
boots that hide critical components from pre-sail inspection.

Any experienced opinions?

--

Roger Long

Roger Long wrote:
I had the privilege of sailing with Rod Stevens years ago when he was
chairman of the ship committee for a sail training vessel I was
designing. He gave the whole lecture on cotter pins which I think was
basically, ends cut short and spread no more than 15 degrees, then
taped. The rational, which makes perfect sense to me, is that bending
long ends all the way around fatigues and changes the metal so that
the bends are susceptible to corrosion and breaking off. The pins then
fall out. Slight bends still keep the pins in and do not weaken the
cotters.

This approach creates sharp snags, thus the tape. The turnbuckles of
Rod's day also had more room to hide the pin ends than the more
streamlined fittings found on many boats today. I'm using split rings
for the time being and keeping a close eye on them but they have ends
that can snag rope and lead to pulling out.

It seems to me that stainless steel seizing wire through the hole and
around the body with the ends tucked well in might be the best and
least snagging approach. I'd like not to depend on tape to protect
sails and fingers anymore than necessary. I also object to plastic
boots that hide critical components from pre-sail inspection.

Any experienced opinions?

I've used the "Stevens" method for many years with the following
modifications. Once cut, the pins are smoothed in a grinder to remove sharp
edges. This usually makes the ends somewhat rounded and actually quite
harmless.

After the pin is fitted and opened to the correct angle, I apply a dab of
silicone and let it harden. Usually (but not always), this means the pins
do not have to be taped.

Another trick is to fit all pins on the boat so that in use the split ends
all face in the same direction. Then a deck walk up only one side of the
boat allows you to scan the rig for missing pins, silicone "globs,", etc.,
and make necessary repairs.

--
Good luck and good sailing.
s/v Kerry Deare of Barnegat
http://home.comcast.net/~kerrydeare

Roger Long wrote:
He gave the whole lecture on cotter pins which I think was
basically, ends cut short and spread no more than 15 degrees, then
taped.

Works for me, I like 10 degrees.

This approach creates sharp snags, thus the tape.

That's while files and grinding wheels were invented.

I’m using split rings
for the time being and keeping a close eye on them but they have ends
that can snag rope and lead to pulling out.

Not on my boat.

I’d like not to depend on tape to protect
sails and fingers anymore than necessary.

Why not take a first aid class. They teach you how to tape things.

Lew

On Tue, 5 Jul 2005 11:49:46 -0400, "Armond Perretta"
wrote:

I've used the "Stevens" method for many years with the following
modifications. Once cut, the pins are smoothed in a grinder to remove sharp
edges. This usually makes the ends somewhat rounded and actually quite
harmless.

After the pin is fitted and opened to the correct angle, I apply a dab of
silicone and let it harden. Usually (but not always), this means the pins
do not have to be taped.

Another trick is to fit all pins on the boat so that in use the split ends
all face in the same direction. Then a deck walk up only one side of the
boat allows you to scan the rig for missing pins, silicone "globs,", etc.,
and make necessary repairs.

Damn, that's good advice! Our YC workshop has a couple of bench
grinders to make this job a snap, and you could just use bath tub
grade silicone.

Thanks a lot!

R.

L. Francis used to give this advice, too. That was a few years ago.

I prefer to drill and tap the cotter pin holes to accept small round head
machine screws. The screws (bolts actually) are only screwed in the depth
of the turnbuckle screw. Nothing protrudes except the round head of the
screw. No need for tape which can cause serious crevice corrosion.


I had the privilege of sailing with Rod Stevens years ago when he was
chairman of the ship committee for a sail training vessel I was
designing. He gave the whole lecture on cotter pins which I think was
basically, ends cut short and spread no more than 15 degrees, then
taped. The rational, which makes perfect sense to me, is that bending
long ends all the way around fatigues and changes the metal so that
the bends are susceptible to corrosion and breaking off. The pins then
fall out. Slight bends still keep the pins in and do not weaken the
cotters.

This approach creates sharp snags, thus the tape. The turnbuckles of
Rod’s day also had more room to hide the pin ends than the more
streamlined fittings found on many boats today. I’m using split rings
for the time being and keeping a close eye on them but they have ends
that can snag rope and lead to pulling out.

It seems to me that stainless steel seizing wire through the hole and
around the body with the ends tucked well in might be the best and
least snagging approach. I’d like not to depend on tape to protect
sails and fingers anymore than necessary. I also object to plastic
boots that hide critical components from pre-sail inspection.

Any experienced opinions?

In outboats.com "dbraun" writes:

I prefer to drill and tap the cotter pin holes to accept small round head
machine screws. The screws (bolts actually) are only screwed in the depth
of the turnbuckle screw. Nothing protrudes except the round head of the
screw. No need for tape which can cause serious crevice corrosion.


I had the privilege of sailing with Rod Stevens years ago when he was
chairman of the ship committee for a sail training vessel I was
designing. He gave the whole lecture on cotter pins which I think was
basically, ends cut short and spread no more than 15 degrees, then
taped. The rational, which makes perfect sense to me, is that bending
long ends all the way around fatigues and changes the metal so that
the bends are susceptible to corrosion and breaking off. The pins then
fall out. Slight bends still keep the pins in and do not weaken the
cotters.

This approach creates sharp snags, thus the tape. The turnbuckles of
Rod’s day also had more room to hide the pin ends than the more
streamlined fittings found on many boats today. I’m using split rings
for the time being and keeping a close eye on them but they have ends
that can snag rope and lead to pulling out.

It seems to me that stainless steel seizing wire through the hole and
around the body with the ends tucked well in might be the best and
least snagging approach. I’d like not to depend on tape to protect
sails and fingers anymore than necessary. I also object to plastic
boots that hide critical components from pre-sail inspection.

Any experienced opinions?

The neatest way is to get locking nuts. After your rig is in trim,
thightten the nuts above and below the middle part of the rigging screw
or turbuckle as some like to call it. If you do not trust this, put a
drop of locktite under the nut. No taping no cotter pins. If you want a
checking point, use some water ressitant felt tim pen, and paint a
stripe ower the locking nut and both parts of the turnbuckle. If the
three pieces of the line are not aligned, you know that something works.

When I use cotter pins I follow Rod Stevens advice and if I have for
some reason rings, I tape them by a small piece tape, so that they hang
loose and the finla package looks like: |O|.

- Lauri Tarkkonen

In article ,
says...


I had the privilege of sailing with Rod Stevens years ago when he was
chairman of the ship committee for a sail training vessel I was
designing. He gave the whole lecture on cotter pins which I think was
basically, ends cut short and spread no more than 15 degrees, then
taped. The rational, which makes perfect sense to me, is that bending
long ends all the way around fatigues and changes the metal so that
the bends are susceptible to corrosion and breaking off. The pins then
fall out. Slight bends still keep the pins in and do not weaken the
cotters.

This approach creates sharp snags, thus the tape. The turnbuckles of
Rod’s day also had more room to hide the pin ends than the more
streamlined fittings found on many boats today. I’m using split rings
for the time being and keeping a close eye on them but they have ends
that can snag rope and lead to pulling out.

It seems to me that stainless steel seizing wire through the hole and
around the body with the ends tucked well in might be the best and
least snagging approach. I’d like not to depend on tape to protect
sails and fingers anymore than necessary. I also object to plastic
boots that hide critical components from pre-sail inspection.

My understanding of proper rigging cotter pin use is not possible fatigue
from bending too far but jsut enough bend to keep the pin in place but
still make it relatively easy to remove in a hurry. A bent over pin won't
come out. But a 15 degree (more or less) bend allows you to remove the
pin with a quick pull and a pair of pliers or marlin spike. As for taping
them, ugly and the tape unwraps. Wife took a pair of old soft leather
boots, cut pieces big enough to wrap the turnbuckles, punched holes in
the pieces and laced them up around the turnbuckles. No snagged ankles,
won't come unwrapped, and easily cut away in an emergency. You do carry a
knife at all times, do you not?

This discussions seems to be a reiteration of the "Of Cotter Pins and
Rigging Tape" article by Bill Seifert in the July issue of Cruising World.

In this article Bill states "Never tension a turnbuckle that's under
load." I know Bill as I used to sail out of the same marina, and he's a
very knowledgeable guy. However I hate rules that have no explaination
behind them. Why would Bill state this?

-- Geoff

Metal contact forces are very high in the threads. Stainless is
especially prone to galling. What he is probably referring to is the
practice of putting the boat on a tack and attempting to tune the
weather rigging until it looks right under load. This can destroy a
turnbuckle.

The proper way is to turn a little on the leeward side, tack,
evaluate, and repeat. Use care. People have destroyed hulls by taking
up the leeward rigging bar tight, tacking, and then doing the same
thing on the other side. You turn the leeward turnbuckles only
because there is no load on them; not to get them as tight as you want
them when they are on the windward side.

Alternatively, tune as best you can at the dock, check under sail, and
make further adjustments at the dock. This works well on our simple
and basic rig. The more complex and bendy the rig, the more likely
that you'll have to do it under sail.

All turnbuckle threads should be well cleaned and lubricated before
tuning. This will help protect the threads.

--

Roger Long



"Geoff Schultz" wrote in message
6...
This discussions seems to be a reiteration of the "Of Cotter Pins
and
Rigging Tape" article by Bill Seifert in the July issue of Cruising
World.

In this article Bill states "Never tension a turnbuckle that's under
load." I know Bill as I used to sail out of the same marina, and
he's a
very knowledgeable guy. However I hate rules that have no
explaination
behind them. Why would Bill state this?

-- Geoff