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#1
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Q: Replace rigging on a 27 footer?
Hi,
two questions about replacement of the standing rigging on a 27 footer: - When the current rigging is over 20 years old, but looks ok, is it necessary to replace it? (It wasn't used much.) - How much would it approximately cost to do this? Ballpark number? Thanks a lot, Chris |
#2
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In article .com,
Chris wrote: Hi, two questions about replacement of the standing rigging on a 27 footer: - When the current rigging is over 20 years old, but looks ok, is it necessary to replace it? (It wasn't used much.) - How much would it approximately cost to do this? Ballpark number? Thanks a lot, Chris I don't remember the numbers for replacing the standing rigging on the 26' folkboat. $1500? 20 years old is pretty old. I believe it should be replaced if more than 10 years old. Use isn't the only issue. The elements degrade the rigging. Look at it this way...is it worth it if the boat is destroyed or people injured if the rigging fails? -- Jonathan Ganz (j gan z @ $ail no w.c=o=m) http://www.sailnow.com "If there's no wind, row." |
#3
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Chris wrote:
Hi, two questions about replacement of the standing rigging on a 27 footer: - When the current rigging is over 20 years old, but looks ok, is it necessary to replace it? (It wasn't used much.) There is certainly no question that the mast should be lowered (assuming its up) and the rigging should be carefully inspected by a surveyor and/or rigger. Odds are, they will recommend replacement. - How much would it approximately cost to do this? Ballpark number? Don't remember - the last time I did it was 30 years ago. You should be able to get a ballpark number from the West catalog since they will make up anything you need. It'll be something like a few bucks a foot for the wire, and about $30 bucks for each end fitting, swaged on. Plus some other stuff. So what's that, about $150 per stay? Probably more. |
#4
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I did this 2 yrs ago on my 28' S2. The 22 yr old rigging looked ok but
i read an article about inspecting the ends with a magnifying glass and sure enough I found microscopic cracks in nearly all ends. These cracks were longitudinal and very thin. I tried dye penetrant testing but that crap didnt work. I took one set to work where I have a plethora of microscopes and sure enough they really were cracks. Replacement cost me about $1200 from West Marine. I think you could find a better price somewhere else. While you are at it, you should also replace your lifelines. Maybe this week I'll take one of the old shrouds to work and make photos of the cracks and put em on the web. That might be helpful to some ppl. |
#6
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In article , Jeff
wrote: I just happened to run into this article: http://www.briontoss.com/education/a.../miscfeb99.htm Good article! -- Jere Lull Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD) Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
#7
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"Chris" wrote in message oups.com... | Hi, | | two questions about replacement of | the standing rigging on a 27 footer: | | - When the current rigging is over | 20 years old, but looks ok, is it | necessary to replace it? (It wasn't | used much.) | | - How much would it approximately | cost to do this? Ballpark number? | | Thanks a lot, | | Chris By all means replace it all. My suggestion is to figure out how much wire you need and buy the wire and some good wire cutters. Next figure out how many Sta-Lok mechanical terminals you need and buy those along with a tube of Lock-tite and some black silicone rubber. Remove one stay or shroud at a time and duplicate the length using the turnbuckle in the 2/3 opened position. If you want it done right, you must do it yourself. CN |
#8
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#9
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Capt. NealŽ wrote:
By all means replace it all. My suggestion is to figure out how much wire you need and buy the wire and some good wire cutters. Next figure out how many Sta-Lok mechanical terminals you need and buy those along with a tube of Lock-tite and some black silicone rubber. Remove one stay or shroud at a time and duplicate the length using the turnbuckle in the 2/3 opened position. If you want it done right, you must do it yourself. CN I've seen the local rigger use the swaging equipment......I don't know how you would get your ends on as secure. I say take your measurements to a local rigger and let them makeup the shrouds, forestay etc. |
#10
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"Don White" wrote in message ... | Capt. NealŽ wrote: | | | By all means replace it all. | | My suggestion is to figure out how much wire you need and | buy the wire and some good wire cutters. | | Next figure out how many Sta-Lok mechanical terminals you | need and buy those along with a tube of Lock-tite and some | black silicone rubber. | | Remove one stay or shroud at a time and duplicate the | length using the turnbuckle in the 2/3 opened position. | | If you want it done right, you must do it yourself. | | CN | | I've seen the local rigger use the swaging equipment......I don't know how | you would get your ends on as secure. I say take your measurements to a | local | rigger and let them makeup the shrouds, forestay etc. Bad advice. Mechanical terminals are proven superior to pressed swages. They can even be reused if a strand of wire breaks for some reason (not to rare these days - wire quality is not what it used to be, believe me.) Sta-Loks are expensive but worth it. They will last the life of your boat. They don't suffer the stress failures of pressed swages. You can always tell a prudent and knowledgeable mariner by looking at his standing rigging. Sta-Loks or Norsemen mechanical wire terminals say "professional, Bristol, top-of-the-line." http://www.sailingservices.com/stalok/stalok_index.htm Don't settle for anything less. CN |
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