Q: Replace rigging on a 27 footer?
 

Hi,

two questions about replacement of
the standing rigging on a 27 footer:

- When the current rigging is over
20 years old, but looks ok, is it
necessary to replace it? (It wasn't
used much.)

- How much would it approximately
cost to do this? Ballpark number?

Thanks a lot,

Chris

In article .com,
Chris wrote:
Hi,

two questions about replacement of
the standing rigging on a 27 footer:

- When the current rigging is over
20 years old, but looks ok, is it
necessary to replace it? (It wasn't
used much.)

- How much would it approximately
cost to do this? Ballpark number?

Thanks a lot,

Chris


I don't remember the numbers for replacing the standing rigging on the
26' folkboat. $1500?

20 years old is pretty old. I believe it should be replaced if more
than 10 years old. Use isn't the only issue. The elements degrade the
rigging. Look at it this way...is it worth it if the boat is destroyed
or people injured if the rigging fails?


--
Jonathan Ganz (j gan z @ $ail no w.c=o=m)
http://www.sailnow.com
"If there's no wind, row."

Chris wrote:
Hi,

two questions about replacement of
the standing rigging on a 27 footer:

- When the current rigging is over
20 years old, but looks ok, is it
necessary to replace it? (It wasn't
used much.)


There is certainly no question that the mast should be lowered
(assuming its up) and the rigging should be carefully inspected by a
surveyor and/or rigger. Odds are, they will recommend replacement.

- How much would it approximately
cost to do this? Ballpark number?

Don't remember - the last time I did it was 30 years ago. You should
be able to get a ballpark number from the West catalog since they will
make up anything you need. It'll be something like a few bucks a
foot for the wire, and about $30 bucks for each end fitting, swaged
on. Plus some other stuff. So what's that, about $150 per stay?
Probably more.

I did this 2 yrs ago on my 28' S2. The 22 yr old rigging looked ok but
i read an article about inspecting the ends with a magnifying glass and
sure enough I found microscopic cracks in nearly all ends. These
cracks were longitudinal and very thin. I tried dye penetrant testing
but that crap didnt work. I took one set to work where I have a
plethora of microscopes and sure enough they really were cracks.
Replacement cost me about $1200 from West Marine. I think you could
find a better price somewhere else. While you are at it, you should
also replace your lifelines.
Maybe this week I'll take one of the old shrouds to work and make
photos of the cracks and put em on the web. That might be helpful to
some ppl.

"Chris" wrote in message oups.com...
| Hi,
|
| two questions about replacement of
| the standing rigging on a 27 footer:
|
| - When the current rigging is over
| 20 years old, but looks ok, is it
| necessary to replace it? (It wasn't
| used much.)
|
| - How much would it approximately
| cost to do this? Ballpark number?
|
| Thanks a lot,
|
| Chris


By all means replace it all.

My suggestion is to figure out how much wire you need and
buy the wire and some good wire cutters.

Next figure out how many Sta-Lok mechanical terminals you
need and buy those along with a tube of Lock-tite and some
black silicone rubber.

Remove one stay or shroud at a time and duplicate the
length using the turnbuckle in the 2/3 opened position.

If you want it done right, you must do it yourself.

CN

I just happened to run into this article:

http://www.briontoss.com/education/a.../miscfeb99.htm

Capt. Neal=AE wrote:
"Chris" wrote in message news:1118695370.580471.26099=
...
| Hi,
|
| two questions about replacement of
| the standing rigging on a 27 footer:
|
| - When the current rigging is over
| 20 years old, but looks ok, is it
| necessary to replace it? (It wasn't
| used much.)
|
| - How much would it approximately
| cost to do this? Ballpark number?
|
| Thanks a lot,
|
| Chris


By all means replace it all.

My suggestion is to figure out how much wire you need and
buy the wire and some good wire cutters.

Next figure out how many Sta-Lok mechanical terminals you
need and buy those along with a tube of Lock-tite and some
black silicone rubber.

Remove one stay or shroud at a time and duplicate the
length using the turnbuckle in the 2/3 opened position.

If you want it done right, you must do it yourself.

CN

I remember that where there were cracks, there were ussually brown rust
stains on the stainless. Apparently, the cracks allow water
penetration which then cuases the stainless to not be stainless in teh
cracks thus leaving the brown stains. So, remove any brown stains with
ultra-fine sandpaper (finer than 600 grit) and then use a 10X magnifier
to look for cracks. Really, I'd just replace it all.

In article , Jeff
wrote:

I just happened to run into this article:

http://www.briontoss.com/education/a.../miscfeb99.htm

Good article!

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

Capt. Neal® wrote:


By all means replace it all.

My suggestion is to figure out how much wire you need and
buy the wire and some good wire cutters.

Next figure out how many Sta-Lok mechanical terminals you
need and buy those along with a tube of Lock-tite and some
black silicone rubber.

Remove one stay or shroud at a time and duplicate the
length using the turnbuckle in the 2/3 opened position.

If you want it done right, you must do it yourself.

CN

I've seen the local rigger use the swaging equipment......I don't know how
you would get your ends on as secure. I say take your measurements to a
local
rigger and let them makeup the shrouds, forestay etc.

"Don White" wrote in message ...
| Capt. Neal® wrote:
|
|
| By all means replace it all.
|
| My suggestion is to figure out how much wire you need and
| buy the wire and some good wire cutters.
|
| Next figure out how many Sta-Lok mechanical terminals you
| need and buy those along with a tube of Lock-tite and some
| black silicone rubber.
|
| Remove one stay or shroud at a time and duplicate the
| length using the turnbuckle in the 2/3 opened position.
|
| If you want it done right, you must do it yourself.
|
| CN
|
| I've seen the local rigger use the swaging equipment......I don't know how
| you would get your ends on as secure. I say take your measurements to a
| local
| rigger and let them makeup the shrouds, forestay etc.

Bad advice. Mechanical terminals are proven superior to pressed
swages. They can even be reused if a strand of wire breaks for
some reason (not to rare these days - wire quality is not what
it used to be, believe me.)

Sta-Loks are expensive but worth it. They will last the life of your
boat. They don't suffer the stress failures of pressed swages.
You can always tell a prudent and knowledgeable mariner by
looking at his standing rigging. Sta-Loks or Norsemen mechanical
wire terminals say "professional, Bristol, top-of-the-line."

http://www.sailingservices.com/stalok/stalok_index.htm

Don't settle for anything less.

CN