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Q: Replace rigging on a 27 footer?
Hi,
two questions about replacement of the standing rigging on a 27 footer: - When the current rigging is over 20 years old, but looks ok, is it necessary to replace it? (It wasn't used much.) - How much would it approximately cost to do this? Ballpark number? Thanks a lot, Chris |
In article .com,
Chris wrote: Hi, two questions about replacement of the standing rigging on a 27 footer: - When the current rigging is over 20 years old, but looks ok, is it necessary to replace it? (It wasn't used much.) - How much would it approximately cost to do this? Ballpark number? Thanks a lot, Chris I don't remember the numbers for replacing the standing rigging on the 26' folkboat. $1500? 20 years old is pretty old. I believe it should be replaced if more than 10 years old. Use isn't the only issue. The elements degrade the rigging. Look at it this way...is it worth it if the boat is destroyed or people injured if the rigging fails? -- Jonathan Ganz (j gan z @ $ail no w.c=o=m) http://www.sailnow.com "If there's no wind, row." |
Chris wrote:
Hi, two questions about replacement of the standing rigging on a 27 footer: - When the current rigging is over 20 years old, but looks ok, is it necessary to replace it? (It wasn't used much.) There is certainly no question that the mast should be lowered (assuming its up) and the rigging should be carefully inspected by a surveyor and/or rigger. Odds are, they will recommend replacement. - How much would it approximately cost to do this? Ballpark number? Don't remember - the last time I did it was 30 years ago. You should be able to get a ballpark number from the West catalog since they will make up anything you need. It'll be something like a few bucks a foot for the wire, and about $30 bucks for each end fitting, swaged on. Plus some other stuff. So what's that, about $150 per stay? Probably more. |
I did this 2 yrs ago on my 28' S2. The 22 yr old rigging looked ok but
i read an article about inspecting the ends with a magnifying glass and sure enough I found microscopic cracks in nearly all ends. These cracks were longitudinal and very thin. I tried dye penetrant testing but that crap didnt work. I took one set to work where I have a plethora of microscopes and sure enough they really were cracks. Replacement cost me about $1200 from West Marine. I think you could find a better price somewhere else. While you are at it, you should also replace your lifelines. Maybe this week I'll take one of the old shrouds to work and make photos of the cracks and put em on the web. That might be helpful to some ppl. |
"Chris" wrote in message oups.com... | Hi, | | two questions about replacement of | the standing rigging on a 27 footer: | | - When the current rigging is over | 20 years old, but looks ok, is it | necessary to replace it? (It wasn't | used much.) | | - How much would it approximately | cost to do this? Ballpark number? | | Thanks a lot, | | Chris By all means replace it all. My suggestion is to figure out how much wire you need and buy the wire and some good wire cutters. Next figure out how many Sta-Lok mechanical terminals you need and buy those along with a tube of Lock-tite and some black silicone rubber. Remove one stay or shroud at a time and duplicate the length using the turnbuckle in the 2/3 opened position. If you want it done right, you must do it yourself. CN |
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In article , Jeff
wrote: I just happened to run into this article: http://www.briontoss.com/education/a.../miscfeb99.htm Good article! -- Jere Lull Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD) Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
Capt. NealŽ wrote:
By all means replace it all. My suggestion is to figure out how much wire you need and buy the wire and some good wire cutters. Next figure out how many Sta-Lok mechanical terminals you need and buy those along with a tube of Lock-tite and some black silicone rubber. Remove one stay or shroud at a time and duplicate the length using the turnbuckle in the 2/3 opened position. If you want it done right, you must do it yourself. CN I've seen the local rigger use the swaging equipment......I don't know how you would get your ends on as secure. I say take your measurements to a local rigger and let them makeup the shrouds, forestay etc. |
"Don White" wrote in message ... | Capt. NealŽ wrote: | | | By all means replace it all. | | My suggestion is to figure out how much wire you need and | buy the wire and some good wire cutters. | | Next figure out how many Sta-Lok mechanical terminals you | need and buy those along with a tube of Lock-tite and some | black silicone rubber. | | Remove one stay or shroud at a time and duplicate the | length using the turnbuckle in the 2/3 opened position. | | If you want it done right, you must do it yourself. | | CN | | I've seen the local rigger use the swaging equipment......I don't know how | you would get your ends on as secure. I say take your measurements to a | local | rigger and let them makeup the shrouds, forestay etc. Bad advice. Mechanical terminals are proven superior to pressed swages. They can even be reused if a strand of wire breaks for some reason (not to rare these days - wire quality is not what it used to be, believe me.) Sta-Loks are expensive but worth it. They will last the life of your boat. They don't suffer the stress failures of pressed swages. You can always tell a prudent and knowledgeable mariner by looking at his standing rigging. Sta-Loks or Norsemen mechanical wire terminals say "professional, Bristol, top-of-the-line." http://www.sailingservices.com/stalok/stalok_index.htm Don't settle for anything less. CN |
Capt. NealŽ wrote:
| I've seen the local rigger use the swaging equipment......I don't know how | you would get your ends on as secure. I say take your measurements to a | local | rigger and let them makeup the shrouds, forestay etc. Bad advice. Mechanical terminals are proven superior to pressed swages. They can even be reused if a strand of wire breaks for some reason (not to rare these days - wire quality is not what it used to be, believe me.) Sta-Loks are expensive but worth it. They will last the life of your boat. They don't suffer the stress failures of pressed swages. You can always tell a prudent and knowledgeable mariner by looking at his standing rigging. Sta-Loks or Norsemen mechanical wire terminals say "professional, Bristol, top-of-the-line." http://www.sailingservices.com/stalok/stalok_index.htm Its not bad advice for everyone. The cost of the fittings adds about $75 per stay. While properly done a mechanical fitting is as good as a swage, there is no guarantee that everyone can do it on their own. This is a very handy skill for a committed live aboard, not necessarily for a daysailor. BTW, most of my fittings are swaged, a few are Stalok'd. Any that need to be replaced will probably get mechanical fittings. |
Top of the line fittings would be absurd on a bottom of the line boat.
Thus a person must decide the merit of putting such valuable fittings on his less than strong boat. I believe that even low cost boats are useful to cruisers. |
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DSK wrote:
wrote: Top of the line fittings would be absurd on a bottom of the line boat. Thus a person must decide the merit of putting such valuable fittings on his less than strong boat. I believe that even low cost boats are useful to cruisers. I wouldn't argue the point, except that it's not a question of spending money for good fittings so as to have bragging rights. The better fittings are stronger, more reliable, will last longer, etc etc. If you don't want to have your mast fall down, then they offer a greater benefit than the cheaper fittings... even on a cheaper boat. Your call is whether it's enough greater benefit to justify the added expense, which will vary widely from person to person & wallet to wallet. DSK Just curious - are the mechanical fittings statistically better? I mean, I suppose it could be shown that they are stronger (if properly done!) but is there actually any evidence that boats with normal swages are far more likely to loose the rig? I don't know of many failures that are caused by swages letting go under normal conditions - most seem to be other components (spreaders, etc), poor maintenance, or the extreme stresses of heavy weather racing. The one argument that makes sense is that mechanical fittings can be inspected and reset by a skilled owner. This would seem to make them cost effective for the long term owner, as well as good insurance for the self reliant cruiser. But for the "past-its-prime" boat, relegated to daysails at the family cottage, I don't see the value. |
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Jeff wrote:
Just curious - are the mechanical fittings statistically better? That would be an interesting question to ask an insurance company... ... I suppose it could be shown that they are stronger (if properly done!) but is there actually any evidence that boats with normal swages are far more likely to loose the rig? I think more likely, but dunno about 'far more likely.' Actually, I think mechanical wire end fittings are not stronger than swages, just more reliable... a swage may have far greater breaking strength, but then again it may not. Also, due to being able to be made & un-made, they are more durable. ... I don't know of many failures that are caused by swages letting go under normal conditions - most seem to be other components (spreaders, etc), poor maintenance, or the extreme stresses of heavy weather racing. Hmm... I've know a few swage failures, a few other things you mention, and not one single case of a mast coming down from 'extreme stress of heavy weather racing,' unless you include things like buckling at the spinnaker pole fitting from death-rolling in 30+ knots. The one argument that makes sense is that mechanical fittings can be inspected and reset by a skilled owner. This would seem to make them cost effective for the long term owner, as well as good insurance for the self reliant cruiser. But for the "past-its-prime" boat, relegated to daysails at the family cottage, I don't see the value. IMHO it depends mostly on how long one plans to own the boat, and how comfortable one is with the cash outlay. Does a 'past-its-prime' daysailing-only family boat need a mast that doesn't fall down? Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 08:15:29 -0400, Jeff wrote:
DSK wrote: wrote: Top of the line fittings would be absurd on a bottom of the line boat. Thus a person must decide the merit of putting such valuable fittings on his less than strong boat. I believe that even low cost boats are useful to cruisers. I wouldn't argue the point, except that it's not a question of spending money for good fittings so as to have bragging rights. The better fittings are stronger, more reliable, will last longer, etc etc. If you don't want to have your mast fall down, then they offer a greater benefit than the cheaper fittings... even on a cheaper boat. Your call is whether it's enough greater benefit to justify the added expense, which will vary widely from person to person & wallet to wallet. DSK Just curious - are the mechanical fittings statistically better? I mean, I suppose it could be shown that they are stronger (if properly done!) but is there actually any evidence that boats with normal swages are far more likely to loose the rig? I don't know of many failures that are caused by swages letting go under normal conditions - most seem to be other components (spreaders, etc), poor maintenance, or the extreme stresses of heavy weather racing. The one argument that makes sense is that mechanical fittings can be inspected and reset by a skilled owner. This would seem to make them cost effective for the long term owner, as well as good insurance for the self reliant cruiser. But for the "past-its-prime" boat, relegated to daysails at the family cottage, I don't see the value. My experience when I re-rigged my 40 ft. sloop was that, disregarding the cost of the cable, the difference in cost between swedged and mechanical terminals was very little. With the mechanical terminals you buy them, with a small gasp at the cost, and then you cut the cable to length and install the terminals and install the rigging. With the swedged fittings you buy the terminal, with a slightly smaller gasp, cut the wire to size, carry it off to the rigging shop and have the terminal swedged onto the wire, then carry it back and install it. I re-rigged in Singapore and the actual cost difference between purchased mechanical terminals (that I installed myself) and installed swedged terminals was negligible. There is a third alternate -- hire a rigger to come out to the boat and do it for you but that price is shocking!! Cheers, Anon ) |
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