Larry W4CSC wrote:

I'm unfamiliar with Australian oil ratings as I'm on the other side of the
planet. Here, what concerns me is our oil (both dino and home made) has
been quietly devalued because it cannot pass the new SAE tests for 2-stroke
and 4-stroke diesels, once these were separated tests. So, you look on the
fancy can with the checkered flags and pictures of NASCAR race drivers and
in the SAE rating circle it says SJ or SK or whatever S rating the gas
engine manufacturers are using now....but NOT D-2 or D-4 for diesel use.
What have they left out? Diesel oils all have detergent in them because of
all the nasty carbon blowby that turns them black. Have they quietly
stopped adding detergent to keep the engines (gas and diesels) clean? Who
made that stupid decision....car manufacturers trying to wear out the cars?

I'm not fascinated with home made oils. I used Mobil 1 synthetic oil in my
Honda EU3000i electronic power plant a couple of times when it was new.
Synthetic oil was rated for air-cooled engines, not water cooled cars. It
was EXPENSIVE. I didn't care, it doesn't use much. When I sucked the
synthetic oil out and looked at it after 100 hours, I was scared I'd ruined
the Honda. It looked like it was BURNED!...it was BROWN! That ended that.
I started using the same Rotella-T (Shell) or Chevron's Velo 400 4-stroke-
rated DIESEL oils that American Truckers driving like hell down the
interstate with amazingly heavy loads on their engines run for millions of
miles between overhauls. What professional trucking companies use to
maximize their engine life speaks VOLUMES more as to what is the right oil
to use in any engine.....than the marketing department's motive of any oil
company trying to squeeze $5/quart out of some home made oil in the
checkered flag can. The genset seems ok at a thousand hours and Velo or
Rotella DON'T come out BROWN!...(c;


Larry,

Thats an interesting insight. I grew up on a farm where we ran diesel
tractors, and we used to buy diesel rated oil from the local CooP (pronounced
Co-OP for you city slickers by the 50 gal drum. Later, I owned a Cummins
powered diesel truck, and always used Rotella because thats what the owners
manual recommended.

I've always run regular 10W-30 motor oil in my gas powered vehicles, and have
generally had good luck with it, but I'll bet that you are right about the
diesel rated oils being higher quality and having better detergents. Diesels
generally run compressions of 24:1 where the average auto today is more like
8:1. There is a lot more pressure on the rod and main bearings in a diesel
because of the higher compression.

I'll bet that there are some mechanical engineers lurking about who could
probably explain all about the SAE oil ratings in great detail.

Don W.

(Al) wrote in :

But wait, there's more!

Visit http://www.oilsandlube.com/ajsig.htm to see they also have line
of products to alleviate any "male problems" you may have...

Honestly, how can anybody take Amsoil seriously?



Darn! Amsoil has yet ANOTHER fertilizer business I hadn't discovered yet!

And they STILL don't have a FACTORY, just a bottling plant!

Amazing, ain't it?

They do have a great marketing and web design department, however....It
rivals Amway...which is what Amsoil reminds me of...(c;

Wonder who they buy oil from? I was trying to find the Yamalube factory a
few years back and found out some really interesting information about OEM
TC-W3 2-stroke oils from the USCG oil forensic lab up in MD. I called
them, figuring they would have a database of the oil formulas from every
manufacturer and OEM sold in America. I was partially right. What
astounded me was when the chemist told me there was no way to actually tell
if it were Yamalube because from LOT TO LOT IT WAS DIFFERENT! Seems the
OEMs, who tell you their $30/gallon oil is just the finest on the planet,
are buying oil from the LOWEST BIDDER in lots every so often. Makes good
business sense, unless you're the sucker who DIDN'T buy the Exxon from
WalMart for $7/gallon, but thought you'd better bunk up and buy $30/gallon
Yamalube for your Yamaha outboard/jetski/etc. or the engine would just
disintegrate, like they told you it would. What bull****.....

Mr Goodwrench is selling the lowest bidder's oil, too....(c;

Don W wrote in
:

There is a lot more pressure on the rod and main bearings in a diesel
because of the higher compression.


The new C-2 and C-4 ratings for 2 and 4 stroke diesels have to do with what
type of detergent is put in the oil to keep the carbon blowby from
destroying it. The detergents in the old gas oils couldn't pass the tests,
so SAE forced them to remove the old CD or CE, etc., ratings from the super
cans with the checkered flags on them. Car oil has an S rating only if you
take a look at it, now. NEVER use these oils in ANY diesel engine.....

Reminds me of Wolf's Head....(c;

Gene Kearns wrote in
:

Ok, Larry, give me a break...

I'm not raggin' on you, Gene. But, I don't think the retired fighter pilot
or this "Dave Mann" mystery man who's background is NOT shown on the
webpages is any kind of "oil engineer". If you want to speak with a REAL
oil engineer, a simple phone call to any of the major oil companies will
get you one. I've found Texaco and Exxon are excellent companies to call
and very helpful on their webpages. As you may have heard, they've been in
the oil business for a hundred years. They seem to have gotten pretty good
at it, too!...(c;

Amsoil.....Amway.....coincidence??

Just a few points, the Chevy 350 is probably one of the best engines
ever built. These engines last many years in marine applications. Their
are very few other gas engines that you can say the same thing about.
They were easy to get parts for, and even heavy duty parts were cheap,
they were simple to build or repair. They weren't perfect, but they
were very reliable, and took a beating.

Diesel oils are made to handle sulfur which is a main concern when it
comes to blow by, they are also formulated to keep contaminates in
suspension, so it comes out with the oil when you change it. That dirt
in the oil is not dirt left in the engine. When you switched your
little Honda over to synthetic you saw what you should expect to see,
dirt in suspension being removed from the engine. Synthetic oil holds
contaminates in suspension better than standard oil, after a few
changes the engine starts to clean itself out, and the oil looks better
when you drain it. By the way, diesel manufacturers are testing their
engines with synthetic oils. I'm sure they'll work just fine, the
problem will be cost, with synthetic their probably looking at about
$50 to $100 worth of synthetic vs $15 to $30 or so of standard oil.

When you talk about overhauls on trucks, they don't run the engines
until they die, and overhaul them. They run them to some point, pull
the engine, and overhaul it, or install another one that has been
overhauled and overhaul the one they just pulled. Their in the business
of hauling freight on time, waiting for a breakdown in the middle of
nowhere doesn't work for them.

Gen sets and long haul engines last a long time because their running
most of the time at constant speeds and loads, it's the start and stop
kind of operation that kills the engine.

And Rotella, Velo and Delo all come out as black as night from a
diesel, even on new engines.

first of all get rid of the Mobil 1 it is crap. Go and get
some ams/oil, best on the market and use 10w/40
"Brian Whatcott" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 29 May 2005 23:42:50 GMT, Gene Kearns
wrote:


First of all, any "viscosity" with a "W" suffix is *not* a
viscosity,
but an (arbitrary) measure of how easy it is to "shear" the
oil at low
temperatures.///

As I recall, the W prefix is a viscosity determination at a
set [low]
temperature ...

Brian W

first of all get rid of the Mobil 1 it is crap. Go and get
some ams/oil, best on the market and use 10w/40
"Brian Whatcott" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 29 May 2005 23:42:50 GMT, Gene Kearns
wrote:


First of all, any "viscosity" with a "W" suffix is *not* a
viscosity,
but an (arbitrary) measure of how easy it is to "shear" the
oil at low
temperatures.///

As I recall, the W prefix is a viscosity determination at a
set [low]
temperature ...

Brian W

Delvac1 is not crap. I use it in 3 of my engines. (it is the same as
Mobil1). I put it in my Ford Lehman's with 3000 hours in them and it is
slowing the amount of oil consumption, smoke and oil sheen on the water. I
also noticed the temps went 5 degrees lower. I would certainly say that it
is a result of lower friction.


"Boots" wrote in message
...
first of all get rid of the Mobil 1 it is crap. Go and get
some ams/oil, best on the market and use 10w/40
"Brian Whatcott" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 29 May 2005 23:42:50 GMT, Gene Kearns
wrote:


First of all, any "viscosity" with a "W" suffix is *not* a
viscosity,
but an (arbitrary) measure of how easy it is to "shear" the
oil at low
temperatures.///

As I recall, the W prefix is a viscosity determination at a
set [low]
temperature ...

Brian W

"Boots" wrote in news:42b8c2d8$1_1@spool9-
west.superfeed.net:

some ams/oil, best on the market and use 10w/40


You talking about Amsoil, the oil canned by some former Air Force pilot in
a little plant in the northern midwest? He also cans fertilizer he doesn't
make, too.

Call 'em and ask them where the big oil refinery or huge chemical plant
that makes all this synthetic is located. You want to visit it and see how
Amsoil is made.

Notice on the webpage it shows some guy with a hose pouring oil into drums
manually?

Amsoil....Amway? Amsoil....Amway? Coincidence?

--
Larry

You know you've had a rough night when you wake up and your outlined in
chalk.