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Bilge pump switch
We have a new float switch in the bilge that pumps out when activated
at a certain level. There is also a switch on the panel. Previously, the switch on the panel supplied power to the bilge pump switch, so that if the panel switch was off the pump would not run, no matter what level the float switch. ie. they were in series. The new float switch has been fitted in parallel to the panel switch. Now, the pump will run when either the panel switch OR the float switch is on. Before, they both had to be on. What is everyone's thoughts about the best format? Series or parallel? It was useful before to be able to switch off the pump when in a marina etc. Now, even if the panel switch is off, the float switch can run the pump and there is no way to turn off. Equally, a parallel arrangement allows the pump to run even if the switch has been turned off, although I cannot see why one would want to run it manually - the float switch should already have kicked in. Hope I've made it clear enough. Thanks Rob Replace 'spam' with 'org' to reply |
#2
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On Mon, 23 May 2005 23:34:33 +0100, Kalico wrote:
We have a new float switch in the bilge that pumps out when activated at a certain level. There is also a switch on the panel. Previously, the switch on the panel supplied power to the bilge pump switch, so that if the panel switch was off the pump would not run, no matter what level the float switch. ie. they were in series. The new float switch has been fitted in parallel to the panel switch. Now, the pump will run when either the panel switch OR the float switch is on. Before, they both had to be on. What is everyone's thoughts about the best format? Series or parallel? It was useful before to be able to switch off the pump when in a marina etc. Now, even if the panel switch is off, the float switch can run the pump and there is no way to turn off. Equally, a parallel arrangement allows the pump to run even if the switch has been turned off, although I cannot see why one would want to run it manually - the float switch should already have kicked in. Hope I've made it clear enough. Thanks Rob Replace 'spam' with 'org' to reply Float switches fail more often than regular switches. So the parallel arrangement has its merits. Brian W |
#3
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On Mon, 23 May 2005 23:34:33 +0100, Kalico wrote:
We have a new float switch in the bilge that pumps out when activated at a certain level. There is also a switch on the panel. Previously, the switch on the panel supplied power to the bilge pump switch, so that if the panel switch was off the pump would not run, no matter what level the float switch. ie. they were in series. I think the common practice is to use a three-position panel switch - On/Off/Auto. This allows you full control of the pump - you can force the pump on, regardless of water levels, prevent it from operating at all, or allow the bilge switch to control it. Obviously, the switch would normally be left in the "Auto" position, giving the bilge switch control. -- Peter Bennett, VE7CEI peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca |
#4
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Kalico wrote in
: there is no way to turn off EXCELLENT....Turning off a bilge pump is the stupidest thing I see.... "Oh, you animal! You're pumping a tiny bit of oil and crap overboard!", they shout at you.... "Yeah, lady, but that beats the hell out of the 90 gallons of diesel fuel, 6 gallons of lube oil, 20 gallons of other dangerous crap stored aboard and the **** in the holding tank when she SINKS BECAUSE SOME GREENIE MADE ME TURN OFF THE BILGE PUMP!".....I retort....(c; It's a win-win situation, running the bilge pump all the time...even with them bitching.... |
#5
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FWIW I agree with Peter Bennett's answer, the three way switch
Larry W4CSC wrote: EXCELLENT....Turning off a bilge pump is the stupidest thing I see.... Depends on the boat & the circumstances. "Oh, you animal! You're pumping a tiny bit of oil and crap overboard!", they shout at you.... "Yeah, lady, but that beats the hell out of the 90 gallons of diesel fuel, 6 gallons of lube oil, 20 gallons of other dangerous crap stored aboard and the **** in the holding tank when she SINKS BECAUSE SOME GREENIE MADE ME TURN OFF THE BILGE PUMP!".....I retort....(c; Or you could take the radical step of fixing your oil leaks and cleaning out your bilge. Some people actually do this, the same as some people actually keep their houses clean. Frankly, I think that if you pump any oil (or other undesirable fluid such as antifreeze, sewage, etc etc) you should 1- have to pay the max fine and 2- go for a mandatory swim right in the middle of the gunk you pumped. Why should other people have to put up with your oil & ****? Doug King |
#6
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DSK wrote in
: Why should other people have to put up with your oil & ****? Doug King Most commendable, Doug, most commendable. A round of applause, everyone! |
#7
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Why should other people have to put up with your oil & ****?
Larry W4CSC wrote: Most commendable, Doug, most commendable. A round of applause, everyone! Is that your final answer? Should we assume that you like for other people to dump their trash & noxious wastes in your yard, and thus you feel free to dump yours anywhere you want? Those "greenies" sure are a PITA aren't they Larry? DSK |
#8
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DSK wrote in
: Is that your final answer? Yep....You're lookin' for a sandbox to fight in and I'm not buyin.... Outside of a new Beneteau in the parking lot noone has had to sea, I don't know of a single boat that doesn't leak something, somewhere.... You need to drop down into the bilge on a containership and get an appreciation for what THEY routinely pump overboard. The whole marina doesn't have THAT much diesel fuel in their bilges..... |
#9
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I agree with Larry, if you really must turn it off, pull the fuse.
That will make you think about it and is less likely to be done by accident. The best place for an over ride switch is in the bilge where you can see what's going on. The best switch for that environment is a second float switch in series as back up before water reaches the stuff you really don't want to get wet. Just pick up the switch. Did you see my obsessive pump threads? If not, check this out: http://home.maine.rr.com/rlma/Bilge.htm This system is designed around some peculiarities of the boat we just bought but does have some advantages: * High capacity * Complete dual redundancy * Equal battery drain * Protection against slosh "chirping" without having to put cofferdams with small drains that might clog around the switches . * Large activation range so long, large diameter hoses won't cause an endless backflow cycle. There is an over ride switch. With this system though, I am just going to wire it to the existing panel switch. It just gets blipped on and off and could be replaced with a pushbutton (which I will do if I can find one to fit the panel). If the lower switch is activated, the system will then automatically pump to the bottom. If the bilge is empty, nothing will happen. This will not bypass a failed float switch so I wouldn't set it up this way on a single pump system. But I have two completely separate systems so it is unlikely that both switches will fail at the same time. If I only had one pump, I would ignore the panel switch and wire in another float switch as suggested above. As you will see, I actually have three pumps when I need them plus a manual pump. If I had a solid stuffing box, I wouldn't bother with all this on a glass boat but ours floats on a hard to replace hose like many sailboats with short shafts and flexible motor mounts. -- Roger Long "Kalico" wrote in message ... We have a new float switch in the bilge that pumps out when activated at a certain level. There is also a switch on the panel. Previously, the switch on the panel supplied power to the bilge pump switch, so that if the panel switch was off the pump would not run, no matter what level the float switch. ie. they were in series. The new float switch has been fitted in parallel to the panel switch. Now, the pump will run when either the panel switch OR the float switch is on. Before, they both had to be on. What is everyone's thoughts about the best format? Series or parallel? It was useful before to be able to switch off the pump when in a marina etc. Now, even if the panel switch is off, the float switch can run the pump and there is no way to turn off. Equally, a parallel arrangement allows the pump to run even if the switch has been turned off, although I cannot see why one would want to run it manually - the float switch should already have kicked in. Hope I've made it clear enough. Thanks Rob Replace 'spam' with 'org' to reply |
#10
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How about, :- float switch operating a warning lamp, then bilge pump on 3
way switch, ie off, to float switch or direct to supply. I fitted this for a customer and also fitted a alarm,( but he found the alarm too annoying!) You could fit a large warning light or even a strobe type, ( float switch are rated at several amps), which would be difficult to ignore. All circuits fused of course! The normal 'rule' type switches only illuminate the light when the pump is running but it seems to make sense that even if bilge pumping is 'anti-social' there should still be some warning of excess bilge levels. Regards Dave |
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