Denis Marier wrote:
With the previous Brydon made head I had to strip the pump and lubricate it
to get smooth running of the piston. The new one an ITT PAR Toilet - Manual
is better but the problem is still there. Unless I can find a way better to
lubricate the inside of the pump's cylinder and piston I have no other way
then to take the pump apart. Maybe someone has a better way to lubricate
the moving parts.

No need to take the pump apart...just remove the top. And on a Jabsco,
it's easy: on older models, remove the 6 six screws and lift it...newer
models, just loosen the hex nut and lift it. Put a healthy squirt of the
grease into the pump...pump a few time to spread it all over the inside
of the cylinder...replace the top. Should take all of 10 minutes, if
that long.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/store/custo...0&cat=6&page=1

Thanks, the hex. nut was easy to remove. Now all I have to do is to get
some Teflon grease and be careful not to twist the O'ring when screwing back
the hex nut.

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
...
Denis Marier wrote:
With the previous Brydon made head I had to strip the pump and lubricate
it
to get smooth running of the piston. The new one an ITT PAR Toilet -
Manual
is better but the problem is still there. Unless I can find a way
better to
lubricate the inside of the pump's cylinder and piston I have no other
way
then to take the pump apart. Maybe someone has a better way to
lubricate
the moving parts.

No need to take the pump apart...just remove the top. And on a Jabsco,
it's easy: on older models, remove the 6 six screws and lift it...newer
models, just loosen the hex nut and lift it. Put a healthy squirt of the
grease into the pump...pump a few time to spread it all over the inside
of the cylinder...replace the top. Should take all of 10 minutes, if
that long.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"

http://www.seaworthy.com/store/custo...0&cat=6&page=1

"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
...
Denis Marier wrote:
With the previous Brydon made head I had to strip the pump and lubricate
it
to get smooth running of the piston. The new one an ITT PAR Toilet -
Manual
is better but the problem is still there. Unless I can find a way better
to
lubricate the inside of the pump's cylinder and piston I have no other
way
then to take the pump apart. Maybe someone has a better way to lubricate
the moving parts.

No need to take the pump apart...just remove the top. And on a Jabsco,
it's easy: on older models, remove the 6 six screws and lift it...newer
models, just loosen the hex nut and lift it. Put a healthy squirt of the
grease into the pump...pump a few time to spread it all over the inside of
the cylinder...replace the top. Should take all of 10 minutes, if that
long.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/store/custo...0&cat=6&page=1

I just serviced my Jabsco and it made a world of difference. I removed the
6 screws and pulled off the top. I had a bit of water trickling past the
inlet valve so I closed the seacock. I then used a small diameter
toilet-type brush and warm soapy water to scrub out the pump cylinder. I
then filled the cylinder and toilet with vinegar and let it sit overnight.
Used my wet/dry vac to suck out the vinegar next day. Dried out the pump
cylinder with paper towels. I coated the pump plunger with silicon grease
and also the cylinder as far down as I could reach. I put in the plunger
and worked it a few times and then repeated the grease application. Now I
can operate the pump with 1 finger.
On the silicon grease, I have some old laboratory silicon grease that was
used on glass-to-glass joints. I tried using silicon grease from an auto
parts supply store, the stuff they put on rubber bushings in car
suspensions. It didn't work too well as it was quite sticky.