On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 10:55:18 -0500, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

Hi, Bruce, and onlookers,

Assuming everyone to have read the prior, I'll not repeat it here but answer
the couple questions raised.

The injection pump was diagnosed by a guy who rebuilds them. He called off
the PN, on his cell phone, while driving down the road during the take-down
of his daughter's wedding the prior weekend, so I have some confidence in
his analysis. It usually, he sez, is an O-ring which fails; we solved the
banjo leak with some copper washers after the Perkins part (steel) was too
hard to seat on the whatever-wasn't-smooth-enough, but the copper deformed
enough to stop THAT leak. However, the other, which he said had a paper
washer in it, could be tightened if I wanted to, but it wouldn't stop the
leak (it didn't), nor if it had, cure the underlying problem. So, it's a
clean-room sort of project, and friends of mine have done their own 4-154
rebuild, which included R&R 4 times to get it in the right position to make
the engine run. I assume I might be as successful, but that my pro might
get it done in one try after HE does the clean-room rebuild :{))

I'm still confused :-) Is your problem a leak? Or the engine doesn't
run right? Or ???

The copper washers in banjo fittings was, sort of, the original seal
solution and the steel washers are a more modern solution. Older
maintenance instructions used to say to anneal the copper washers if
you rebuilt the device, which I always did (heat the copper washer red
hot and drop in a pot of water).


So, once we get Lydia's mother situated in senior housing, we'll go on down
to Stuart, where he is, leave the boat in his care, and go visit
grandchildren in the (yet another!) car we'll have bought before hand, it
STILL being cheaper than a rental car. However, this time, it will wind up
in the hands of the one we thought we'd give it to, to keep for us on future
visits; the circumstances are right that they are happy to have it, now,
whereas last May, when the issue arose, they'd already gotten another
vehicle to replace one which had been totalled.

As to the furler, it was, indeed, 3/8 line, run through a turning block, and
then to fairleads back to the cam-cleat cheek block below the small cleat to
which we attach it after it's cammed. It's possible that the line was
flailing enough that it rubbed on the sides of the turning block, but my
money would be on the fairlead. Either way, it was a nuisance, though
replacement isn't horribly expensive - just annoying. Indeed, I'm going
with 5/16", as my supplier didn't happen to have 3/8", and the next was
7/16", which I'm confident would not fit around my furler in the length
needed (number of turns) to roll out the sail. If that proves too small to
hand, I'll go back to (all other suppliers' much more expensive) 3/8".

When I built a roller furling system for the main sail I added a
"furling station" which was a SS "bracket" holding four cam cleats and
a small single speed winch which could be used on any of the various
lines. So the jib and main furling lines and the main sheet all ran to
one location with a winch so the diameter of the various lines was
immaterial as far as pulling on them went.

And, in fact, in all the miles we've done on the boat and genoa(s, including
priors, and including during our wreck), we've also never had a line sheath,
let alone a line (this on was sheath only) fail, so this was an anomaly.

Thanks for the interest, and Happy New Year!

L8R

Skip
--
Cheers,

Bruce in Bangkok

Hi, all,

I see I've not been distinct :{))

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 10:55:18 -0500, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

Hi, Bruce, and onlookers,

Assuming everyone to have read the prior, I'll not repeat it here but
answer
the couple questions raised.

(clip)

I'm still confused :-) Is your problem a leak? Or the engine doesn't
run right? Or ???

The copper washers in banjo fittings was, sort of, the original seal
solution and the steel washers are a more modern solution. Older
maintenance instructions used to say to anneal the copper washers if
you rebuilt the device, which I always did (heat the copper washer red
hot and drop in a pot of water).


The engine runs great, but we still have a leak from whatever it is (not
part of the injector delivery parts). The paper washer, evidently, was just
to isolate the interior from the exterior on that joint, I think.

I don't know the innards of this pump to tell you exactly, but the analysis
of the guy is that it's got a thin O-ring which classically is the cause of
body leaks.

As to the washers, they were just a couple the guy I had come over after I
couldn't get it loose and didn't want to break anything; my steel washers
(proper part, from the same guy above), and even a banjo bolt and washers
from a 3-cylinder version of the same-part pump didn't do it - leading to
the copper. That fixed the pressurized mist, but not the drip-drip-drip
from the other.

When I built a roller furling system for the main sail I added a
"furling station" which was a SS "bracket" holding four cam cleats and
a small single speed winch which could be used on any of the various
lines. So the jib and main furling lines and the main sheet all ran to
one location with a winch so the diameter of the various lines was
immaterial as far as pulling on them went.

Sounds cool. However, everything I've read is that the general-sized genny
furlers should not be winched, or it's a sign of a problem if they do. In
fact, it wasn't until I did so (put it on a winch) that the sheath
separated. Other than extreme conditions, I hand the line in...

My boom has a single winch for the three reefing lines and the outhaul, too.
The other lines except for the mainsheet are run/led aft to two winches in
the cockpit

L8R

Skip, in rainy Vero Beach

--

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
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- Dr. Samuel Johnson

rOn Sun, 29 Dec 2013 11:57:26 -0500, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

Hi, all,

I see I've not been distinct :{))

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 10:55:18 -0500, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

Hi, Bruce, and onlookers,

Assuming everyone to have read the prior, I'll not repeat it here but
answer
the couple questions raised.

(clip)

I'm still confused :-) Is your problem a leak? Or the engine doesn't
run right? Or ???

The copper washers in banjo fittings was, sort of, the original seal
solution and the steel washers are a more modern solution. Older
maintenance instructions used to say to anneal the copper washers if
you rebuilt the device, which I always did (heat the copper washer red
hot and drop in a pot of water).


The engine runs great, but we still have a leak from whatever it is (not
part of the injector delivery parts). The paper washer, evidently, was just
to isolate the interior from the exterior on that joint, I think.

I don't know the innards of this pump to tell you exactly, but the analysis
of the guy is that it's got a thin O-ring which classically is the cause of
body leaks.

As to the washers, they were just a couple the guy I had come over after I
couldn't get it loose and didn't want to break anything; my steel washers
(proper part, from the same guy above), and even a banjo bolt and washers
from a 3-cylinder version of the same-part pump didn't do it - leading to
the copper. That fixed the pressurized mist, but not the drip-drip-drip
from the other.

When I built a roller furling system for the main sail I added a
"furling station" which was a SS "bracket" holding four cam cleats and
a small single speed winch which could be used on any of the various
lines. So the jib and main furling lines and the main sheet all ran to
one location with a winch so the diameter of the various lines was
immaterial as far as pulling on them went.

Sounds cool. However, everything I've read is that the general-sized genny
furlers should not be winched, or it's a sign of a problem if they do. In
fact, it wasn't until I did so (put it on a winch) that the sheath
separated. Other than extreme conditions, I hand the line in...

No, you are right. the roller furlers aren't designed to have some
astonishing amount of force imposed on them but the winch was sort of
nice to use as I used to get two or three turns on the "furling winch"
and I could then pull the sheet loose from the self tailing winch and
hold the tail of it in one hand and slack it off with one hand as I
wound in the furling winch with the other. Otherwise it was sort of
slack off the sheet a bit and then cleat it off and furl a little bit
and then slack off a bit more, etc.

The main sail roller furling was a different story though. It needed a
winch to get the foot of the sail tensioned correctly.

My boom has a single winch for the three reefing lines and the outhaul, too.
The other lines except for the mainsheet are run/led aft to two winches in
the cockpit

L8R

Skip, in rainy Vero Beach
--
Cheers,

Bruce in Bangkok