On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 10:55:18 -0500, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

Hi, Bruce, and onlookers,

Assuming everyone to have read the prior, I'll not repeat it here but answer
the couple questions raised.

The injection pump was diagnosed by a guy who rebuilds them. He called off
the PN, on his cell phone, while driving down the road during the take-down
of his daughter's wedding the prior weekend, so I have some confidence in
his analysis. It usually, he sez, is an O-ring which fails; we solved the
banjo leak with some copper washers after the Perkins part (steel) was too
hard to seat on the whatever-wasn't-smooth-enough, but the copper deformed
enough to stop THAT leak. However, the other, which he said had a paper
washer in it, could be tightened if I wanted to, but it wouldn't stop the
leak (it didn't), nor if it had, cure the underlying problem. So, it's a
clean-room sort of project, and friends of mine have done their own 4-154
rebuild, which included R&R 4 times to get it in the right position to make
the engine run. I assume I might be as successful, but that my pro might
get it done in one try after HE does the clean-room rebuild :{))

I'm still confused :-) Is your problem a leak? Or the engine doesn't
run right? Or ???

The copper washers in banjo fittings was, sort of, the original seal
solution and the steel washers are a more modern solution. Older
maintenance instructions used to say to anneal the copper washers if
you rebuilt the device, which I always did (heat the copper washer red
hot and drop in a pot of water).


So, once we get Lydia's mother situated in senior housing, we'll go on down
to Stuart, where he is, leave the boat in his care, and go visit
grandchildren in the (yet another!) car we'll have bought before hand, it
STILL being cheaper than a rental car. However, this time, it will wind up
in the hands of the one we thought we'd give it to, to keep for us on future
visits; the circumstances are right that they are happy to have it, now,
whereas last May, when the issue arose, they'd already gotten another
vehicle to replace one which had been totalled.

As to the furler, it was, indeed, 3/8 line, run through a turning block, and
then to fairleads back to the cam-cleat cheek block below the small cleat to
which we attach it after it's cammed. It's possible that the line was
flailing enough that it rubbed on the sides of the turning block, but my
money would be on the fairlead. Either way, it was a nuisance, though
replacement isn't horribly expensive - just annoying. Indeed, I'm going
with 5/16", as my supplier didn't happen to have 3/8", and the next was
7/16", which I'm confident would not fit around my furler in the length
needed (number of turns) to roll out the sail. If that proves too small to
hand, I'll go back to (all other suppliers' much more expensive) 3/8".

When I built a roller furling system for the main sail I added a
"furling station" which was a SS "bracket" holding four cam cleats and
a small single speed winch which could be used on any of the various
lines. So the jib and main furling lines and the main sheet all ran to
one location with a winch so the diameter of the various lines was
immaterial as far as pulling on them went.

And, in fact, in all the miles we've done on the boat and genoa(s, including
priors, and including during our wreck), we've also never had a line sheath,
let alone a line (this on was sheath only) fail, so this was an anomaly.

Thanks for the interest, and Happy New Year!

L8R

Skip
--
Cheers,

Bruce in Bangkok