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#11
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Splashdown in sight...
On Mon, 28 Jan 2013 14:43:46 -0500, " Sir Gregory Hall, Esq·"
åke wrote: "Flying Pig" wrote in message ... First anchor splash recently, now, too. Addressing some more seeps on new clamps, which is about the worst we can talk about in our shakedown, if you ignore the last-minute start battery replacement this morning :{)) What do you use 'clamps' for? Why, to stops the seeps, of course..... -- Cheers, Bruce |
#12
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Splashdown in sight...
" Sir Gregory Hall, Esq·" åke wrote in message
... "Flying Pig" wrote in message ... First anchor splash recently, now, too. Addressing some more seeps on new clamps, which is about the worst we can talk about in our shakedown, if you ignore the last-minute start battery replacement this morning :{)) What do you use 'clamps' for? Unlike some we know, we have an inboard diesel auxiliary power plant. The hose which connects to the bottom of the raw water pump seeps a bit, now (never has before, but that was then). Normally the clamp would do the job, but I broke a couple of them before I decided I'm going to pull it and have a looksee. The Y valve to the toilet and holding tank (I hear you have installed one of those, yourself, even), forward, developed a crack in one of the legs. I have spares, but at the moment, I have a drip on a different leg. All will be addressed in the AM. Lovely dinner on our new cockpit table, for the first time, and our Rocna bit like a shark. Reading their website they discourage oversizing - and ours is two levels bigger than their recommendations. I think it will probably hold :{)) Engine runs WONDERFULLY, no issues whatsoever at the fuel dock (Lydia HANDED him the bow line, and I sidled up to the dock sideways so that the stern line could get the same treatment.), So, I'm about to retire with a good book, and go back at it in the AM. Wind promises to be in the right direction for moving south soon, so I want to get it all back in shape. L8R Skip -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig KI4MPC See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery ! Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog When a man comes to like a sea life, he is not fit to live on land. - Dr. Samuel Johnson |
#13
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Splashdown in sight...
"Flying Pig" wrote in
message ... " Sir Gregory Hall, Esq·" åke wrote in message ... "Flying Pig" wrote in message ... First anchor splash recently, now, too. Addressing some more seeps on new clamps, which is about the worst we can talk about in our shakedown, if you ignore the last-minute start battery replacement this morning :{)) What do you use 'clamps' for? Unlike some we know, we have an inboard diesel auxiliary power plant. The hose which connects to the bottom of the raw water pump seeps a bit, now (never has before, but that was then). Normally the clamp would do the job, but I broke a couple of them before I decided I'm going to pull it and have a looksee. So it's hose clamps. Why not say that as there are many different types of clamps. The Y valve to the toilet and holding tank (I hear you have installed one of those, yourself, even), I don't have a Y-valve. All I have is a 1 1/2"ball valve at the thru-hull fitting and an in-line, 1 1/2", ball valve on the holding tank side of the T from the discharge side of my ElectroScan, US Coast Guard approved Type I MSD. One side of the T goes to the thru-hull while the other side goes to the 1 1/2" plastic ball valve on the holding tank side. IOW, in a no-discharge zone I have the option of directing the flush to the holding tank which will then contain *treated* sewage which I can legally discharge outside of the no-discharge zone. No need for pump-out costs and hassles. I have no leaky hose clamps in the system. My system must be air tight as to empty the holding tank overboard I use air pressure from a tire pump on a vent hose Shrader valve fitting to pressurize the holding tank. Then when I open the hull discharge valve, the treated tank contents get pushed out of the thru-hull fitting/valve. forward, developed a crack in one of the legs. I have spares, but at the moment, I have a drip on a different leg. All will be addressed in the AM. Stuff gets old and breaks. They don't make it like they used to... Lovely dinner on our new cockpit table, for the first time, and our Rocna bit like a shark. Reading their website they discourage oversizing - and ours is two levels bigger than their recommendations. I think it will probably hold :{)) Engine runs WONDERFULLY, no issues whatsoever at the fuel dock (Lydia HANDED him the bow line, and I sidled up to the dock sideways so that the stern line could get the same treatment.), So, I'm about to retire with a good book, and go back at it in the AM. Wind promises to be in the right direction for moving south soon, so I want to get it all back in shape. I bet you're happy to be back on the water. I don't care what anybody says the life of a lubber is very demeaning. -- Sir Gregory |
#14
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Splashdown in sight...
" Sir Gregory Hall, Esq·" åke wrote in message
... The Y valve to the toilet and holding tank (I hear you have installed one of those, yourself, even), Heh. I was referring to a toilet and holding tank, WRT your opening comment. I don't have a Y-valve. All I have is a 1 1/2"ball valve at the thru-hull fitting and an in-line, 1 1/2", ball valve on the holding tank side of the T from the discharge side of my ElectroScan, US Coast Guard approved Type I MSD. One side of the T goes to the thru-hull while the other side goes to the 1 1/2" plastic ball valve on the holding tank side. IOW, in a no-discharge zone I have the option of directing the flush to the holding tank which will then contain *treated* sewage which I can legally discharge outside of the no-discharge zone. No need for pump-out costs and hassles. I have no leaky hose clamps in the system. My system must be air tight as to empty the holding tank overboard I use air pressure from a tire pump on a vent hose Shrader valve fitting to pressurize the holding tank. Then when I open the hull discharge valve, the treated tank contents get pushed out of the thru-hull fitting/valve. That's pretty cool - but, having now gone to that extent, how do you prove, if boarded, that you have an exclusion from dumping, if it's a regular ball valve? Our holding tank is a bladder so wouldn't do well with your setup, I don't think. However, it DOES address the ability to dump when your tank is under the water line. Do you have a valve in your vent line, as well, to allow for incoming volume (wouldn't want to be pumping the head against a pressure already there)? And, ditto that about the ES. Do you have a large-volume pump you pressurize with (a holding tank holds a lot of volume of air, too!)? forward, developed a crack in one of the legs. I have spares, but at the moment, I have a drip on a different leg. All will be addressed in the AM. Stuff gets old and breaks. They don't make it like they used to... And, therein the problem. I didn't have any leaky clamps, either :{/) Turns out, before I was finished, that I broke the spare I'd installed (also with a leak, on a different leg), and in trying to rebuild from the two OTHERS I had in spares, one of them broke the insides. I gave it up and ordered a new one of the same general style, but different dimension, which may help, or may make more difficult, the bend between my PVC in and hose out to the thru hull, depending on where they aim when I turn the 120 degree elbow(s). These don't have nipples on the ends, which will make removal of hose later, if needed, less likely to break something - and, by popping the lid, can be lifted out of their slots separately, an additional aid to manipulation... Engine runs WONDERFULLY, no issues whatsoever at the fuel dock (Lydia HANDED him the bow line, and I sidled up to the dock sideways so that the stern line could get the same treatment.), Shakedowns are to display problems before they become crucial - and the engine, too, is on the disabled list while I sort out the raw water pump - so while it's vexing, it's better done here than in the middle of the Bahamas or worse. After three clamps, and a new hose, along with a new routing, I gave up and pulled it for rebuild. Back on today after breakfast, I presume that will have to solve it, because there's nothing else left. While I was at it, of course, I changed the impeller. On initial inspection (it's almost 400 hours old), it appeared perfect. But aggressive flexing of each vane revealed that one of them had started the splitting process. As I have literally a half dozen of these, replacing was not a pain. I also have a couple of spare pumps, and had made a note when I installed this one 4 years ago (that's how much we use the engine, BTW - under 400 hours in 4 years) to rebuild one of them. It turned out to need a total overhaul. Fortunately, I have all the parts other than a single seal (which I assume can be found somewhere) to make an entirely new pump, so I'll do that while I wait for other parts (barbeque regulator being the only other item we're waiting for). And, as long as we're stuck here, across from the city marina (see the tinyurl.com/FlyingPigSpot), we'll enjoy some time with some friends who are driving through from their boat in Charleston at the FFFF (first friday in february festival) here in Ft. Pierce. I bet you're happy to be back on the water. I don't care what anybody says the life of a lubber is very demeaning. I didn't find it demeaning, but I certainly agree that it's nicer on the water. L8R, y'all Skip -- Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig KI4MPC See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery ! Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog "Believe me, my young friend, there is *nothing*-absolutely nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing, messing-about-in-boats; messing about in boats-or *with* boats. In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter, that's the charm of it. Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not." |
#15
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Splashdown in sight...
"Flying Pig" wrote in
message ... " Sir Gregory Hall, Esq·" åke wrote in message ... The Y valve to the toilet and holding tank (I hear you have installed one of those, yourself, even), Heh. I was referring to a toilet and holding tank, WRT your opening comment. Got it! I don't have a Y-valve. All I have is a 1 1/2"ball valve at the thru-hull fitting and an in-line, 1 1/2", ball valve on the holding tank side of the T from the discharge side of my ElectroScan, US Coast Guard approved Type I MSD. One side of the T goes to the thru-hull while the other side goes to the 1 1/2" plastic ball valve on the holding tank side. IOW, in a no-discharge zone I have the option of directing the flush to the holding tank which will then contain *treated* sewage which I can legally discharge outside of the no-discharge zone. No need for pump-out costs and hassles. I have no leaky hose clamps in the system. My system must be air tight as to empty the holding tank overboard I use air pressure from a tire pump on a vent hose Shrader valve fitting to pressurize the holding tank. Then when I open the hull discharge valve, the treated tank contents get pushed out of the thru-hull fitting/valve. That's pretty cool - but, having now gone to that extent, how do you prove, if boarded, that you have an exclusion from dumping, if it's a regular ball valve? The state statutes require the overboard discharge valve (ball valve in my case) to be closed and secured with a lock, tie-wrap or some other method to keep somebody from casually opening it. My ball valve has been fitted with a padlock and is locked to a nearby bulkhead into which an eyebolt is fitted. Since I have a Type I MSD the only place where it must remain closed and locked is in do-discharge zones. Anywhere else the discharge ball valve may be legally left open as treated sewage from the Type I MSD is allowed to be pumped overboard. My holding tank is an adjunct and not required by law as it is a Type III device. One has one's legal choice of a Type I, II, or III or a combination. If one combines a Type I or II with a Type III one is still required to secure the overboard discharge valve in no-discharge zones. But unlike having ONLY a Type III device one may keep the overboard discharge valve open legally in other than a no-discharge zone because it is legal to discharge treated sewage. Our holding tank is a bladder so wouldn't do well with your setup, I don't think. It would not. However, it DOES address the ability to dump when your tank is under the water line. How can you do that without somehow pressurizing it? My ridgid holding tank is under the waterline so I have to pressurize it above what occurs at the depth of the discharge thru-hull which is about two feet below the surface. Do you have a valve in your vent line, as well, to allow for incoming volume (wouldn't want to be pumping the head against a pressure already there)? You're right. At this time, I've embraced the simple solution. No valve. The vent fitting in the hull is in the side of the vessel in the heads. It is right out in plain sight just above a fiddled shelf. The vent hose is slid on the hose barb without a hose clamp. To pressurize the holding tank I simply slide the hose off the hose barb and insert a Shrader valve/hose barb fitting to the hose. Then I screw my little Taylor Made fender pump to the Schrader valve using the included Schrader valve hose and pump to about fifteen pounds which is sufficient to push the tank contents out the discharge thru-hull. There is only one 1 1/2 vacuum hose fitted to the holding tank. It fits to a n 1 1/2 hose barb on the side of the tank at the top. There is another vac hose fitted to the inside of the hosebarb. This vac hose is of sufficent length to lie in the bottom corner of the holding tank. Sewage goes in and out the same hose. The air space on top of the treated sewage, when pressurized, expands and pushes out the liquid - all but about an inch or so. And, ditto that about the ES. Do you have a large-volume pump you pressurize with (a holding tank holds a lot of volume of air, too!)? It's only a ten-gallon tank. The little fender pump only takes about fifty strokes to pressurize an almost full tank adequately. The holding tank is also fitted using another plastic tee with a pumpout fitting on the hull. The tee is between the toilet and the ElectroScan. I've not tried a pumpout station yet but I suspect I need a rubber ball to place in the toilet so it doesn't suck air through the toilet instead of sucking the contents of the holding tank. But, my needs for a pumpout are about nill as it's only about a quarter mile from the boundary of the no-discharge zone so I can simply sail or motor out on a fine day and discharge the treated sewage legally overboard. There is no requirement to go out three miles into international waters. -- Sir Gregory |
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