I got the rudder shoe off after much argument with it and the 34YO 5200.
The rudder is still supported by the jackstand on which it started.

I started by lowering the jack stand to engage the weight of the rudder
itself, but not so much as to produce a potential fall if the shoe should
let go suddenly. Hah!

It took dozens of heat cycles immediately followed by whacks at both ends
with the end of a 2x4 chunk, of which I had three to start with to
eventually get it to move.

Each whack along the edge of the side would cut off part of the wood or
split it in preparation, so I got 4 side whacks plus a couple of end whacks
per stick. Then I'd have to walk across the yard to borrow the table saw
and cut that damaged part off so I could do it again. I finally got tired
of doing that so often, also realizing that each time I left, it cooled
noticeably and I had to come back and blowtorch it again. So, I picked up a
relatively long 2x4 and cut it in half to up my arsenal.

Of course, having done that, by the time I did the reheat and banging bit,
with my total of 6 hits (three pieces of wood, 2 sides and the end from both
sides) with my original set, I had it off to the degree that taps with the
wooden hammer freed it.

Pix of this particular part, if you're interested start he
http://justpickone.org/skip/gallery/...op+It&start=53

I'm reasonably sure this came off by brute force and whatever measure of
expansion the heat did to the bronze; the 5200 on the inside wasn't any
measurably softer than the fiberglass above it!

I now have to figure out what I'm going to do with the rudder for protection
from damage, but still be able to access every bit of it, while I do the
shaft. I presume this weighs a couple hundred pounds, so I won't just be
flipping it around. Any ideas on what to do with it to keep it stable, but
also, at a minimum, be able to get to all sides of the post where all the
pits are (presumed ~6-12" from the top of the rudder, as I don't know how
thick the hull is at that point)?

L8R, y'all

Skip

--

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
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- Dr. Samuel Johnson

On Tue, 3 Apr 2012 21:15:39 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

I got the rudder shoe off after much argument with it and the 34YO 5200.
The rudder is still supported by the jackstand on which it started.

I started by lowering the jack stand to engage the weight of the rudder
itself, but not so much as to produce a potential fall if the shoe should
let go suddenly. Hah!

It took dozens of heat cycles immediately followed by whacks at both ends
with the end of a 2x4 chunk, of which I had three to start with to
eventually get it to move.

Each whack along the edge of the side would cut off part of the wood or
split it in preparation, so I got 4 side whacks plus a couple of end whacks
per stick. Then I'd have to walk across the yard to borrow the table saw
and cut that damaged part off so I could do it again. I finally got tired
of doing that so often, also realizing that each time I left, it cooled
noticeably and I had to come back and blowtorch it again. So, I picked up a
relatively long 2x4 and cut it in half to up my arsenal.

Of course, having done that, by the time I did the reheat and banging bit,
with my total of 6 hits (three pieces of wood, 2 sides and the end from both
sides) with my original set, I had it off to the degree that taps with the
wooden hammer freed it.

Pix of this particular part, if you're interested start he
http://justpickone.org/skip/gallery/...op+It&start=53

I'm reasonably sure this came off by brute force and whatever measure of
expansion the heat did to the bronze; the 5200 on the inside wasn't any
measurably softer than the fiberglass above it!

I now have to figure out what I'm going to do with the rudder for protection
from damage, but still be able to access every bit of it, while I do the
shaft. I presume this weighs a couple hundred pounds, so I won't just be
flipping it around. Any ideas on what to do with it to keep it stable, but
also, at a minimum, be able to get to all sides of the post where all the
pits are (presumed ~6-12" from the top of the rudder, as I don't know how
thick the hull is at that point)?

L8R, y'all

Skip

What most people do is to make up a bit of cribbing to lay the rudder
on with the shaft sticking out the side. Wrap the rudder with
something to protect the Finnish and have at it.

In looking at your pictures it is quite obvious that the rudder is
considered part of the boat and not something to be removed at a whim
:-)
--
Cheers,

Bruce