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We left you as we'd put down the hook in Nurse Cay, and enjoyed our
first self-caught fish dinner in longer than I can recall. It was marvelous, and lots of leftovers... We were up and at'em again by 8:10. Unfortunately, there was little to no wind, but by 8:20, we had the main and genoa set for whatever we could do. Once out of the lee of Nurse Cay, the wind picked up to a usable 8-10 knots on a very close reach on our 180*T course. Over the course of the day, the wind backed, as per forecast, and, in the sheltered waters inside the cays, we made 5.6- 6.1 knots on our short passage. We had the hook down in Hog Cay by 11 AM. Imagine our surprise to find that there were well over 20 boats there, already. Apparently, most of the folks had somewhat the same idea as we - we'd hurried down to be part of the Valentine's Day festivities, which, it would turn out, had more than 30 boats participating. However, I get ahead of myself, as, that evening, there was a meet-and-greet, hors d'oevres and garbage burning party. We made a fish dip from our remainders, took our drinks ashore, and left the burnable (no bottles/jars or cans or other metal) stuff in the dinghy, uncertain of what we'd find. It turns out that the "camp" where the big event would be held has a burning pit; we'd learn, in our time there, that it was a regular event for someone to call for munchies, drinks and - garbage! After having spent a lot of time in George Town, we somewhat expected this crowd would be a bit like that - some regulars, some newbies, and a bit of old-boy-ism. We were correct, but we were surprised at the vituperation expressed by some of the folks we met in regard to George Town. Folks here like their lives entirely unstructured (as might be expected, as far away from everything as it is), but some of them were downright hostile toward the cameraderie and organized activities in George Town. Ah, well, each to his own. We only knew 3 of the boats there, and the usual practice of handing around boat cards (like a business card, but with your boat information on them) was not observed, other than the ones we passed out. In the coming weeks, as folks drifted away after the party, some of them bolting the very next day, the crowds thinned out and we made many new friends. Back to the party, however, if you're a cruiser, and can get to Hog Cay in the Raggeds (and can stand being a stranger), it's amazing. Maxine, the local grocer and supplies-contact (she'll order anything you want to come in on the next week's mail boat), puts on a veritable feast. A huge ham, a similarly large turkey, fried fish, Bahamian mac'n'cheese, salad, potato salad, peas and rice (a Bahamian staple), cole slaw, carrot salad, fried chicken and, I'm sure, some other goodies I've forgotten. All that was supplemented by plastic plates and utensils and paper napkins, all courtesy of Maxine. A collection is taken up in advance, along with all signing the Valentine's Card, both of which are given to Maxine after dinner. The cruisers provide hors d'oevres and desserts. Not knowing that Maxine did it all for dinner, we brought stuffing. Apparently, it was a hit, as the pan looked like it had been licked clean. And, we also learned, not only did the cruisers do dessert, Maxine had brought three huge cakes! What a cornucopia... Entertainment is provided by both cruisers and locals, who also consider this a social event, so Junkanoo, in all its finery, was the order of the day in the afternoon. A special auction was held to support the local school, which was raising funds for a field trip. Those of you who were with us last year will recall that there's an all-grade school there, with, this year, 9 kids. They're hopeful of getting certified as a high school, because, now, if you want to go beyond the 8th grade, you have to go to Nassau to do it. We got to know more locals on a close basis during that party than we did cruisers we'd not met before. As was our experience last year, the locals go out of their way to be helpful and friendly to cruisers. This year's special was getting to know the crew on the fishing boat which anchored among us after acting as a ferry for some of the enormous feast laid out for us. During our time at Hog Cay, in addition to getting to know some of the remainder cruisers, I picked up a couple of gems. First was that the lead developer - analogous to my son Michael, who wrote the most popular Chrome browser extension, AdBlock - for Open CPN. Open CPN is an open-source, free navigation program which will accept all of the most common electronic chart formats. Being able to speak with the author made my transition into the program a snap. The second was being referred to a ham and High Frequency Radio hobbyist. I'd been having difficulty both being heard when trying to speak with people on both the SSB and Ham frequencies, and sending mail over the Ham radio link for email was excruciating. He refused any thought of compensation, mostly because what I needed was what he lived for. Should it have required removing some of the electronics for examination, he'd happily have done that too. If you've been with me for a while, you may recall that I borrowed a tool from another cruiser in George Town in hopes of diagnosing my challenges. That instrument suggested a variety of things, all of which proved baseless. The instruments and gadgets brought aboard Flying Pig for troubleshooting quickly, one at a time, proved the integrity of all but the tuner. Before removing it for examination and repair, however, my saviour showed his intimate knowledge of the panapoly of tuners out there, and, after proving that it SOUNDED (there's a simple test you can do right at the tuner, listening for relays clicking) like it should be working, he asked me to trace the wiring before I took it out. Turns out there was a connection from a prior radio's installation (what we call an orphan - a wire which is no longer being used, but which remains in place) which had been interfering with proper operation. Without that specific knowledge of that tuner, we'd have chased our tails forever trying to figure it out! Cut that wire, and all is well. Well, other than that the radio, a very high-draw item, was connected to the main circuit panel and thus at the mercy for amps being drawn by nearly anything original in the boat, as well as some new stuff which had been added, and sometimes went a bit hungry. The solution for that, one of my to-do projects when we get to shore, soon, is to run a new circuit directly from my massive battery bank, protect it with its own circuit breaker, and run the radio and tuner on that dedicated line. There are some other geeky tricks I'll do, but I'll not bore you with the details :{)) The remainder of the time there was spent walking the beaches on the Atlantic side, making many new friends in the anchorage, and burning garbage :{)) Trash is a real issue in the Ragged Islands, as there's no place to dispose of it in any community (at least not without straining their resources) - "any" meaning Duncan Town in Ragged Island, the only Ragged Island with more than one home (there are two other islands with a single home on them). So, the routine is to burn anything which WILL burn, and pack out those other things for disposal either fully at sea or in the larger communities from which nearly all cruisers come to get here. A week after we arrived, we decamped to Double Breasted Cay, a favorite spot from last year. We'd hoped to learn more about fishing (well, hunting, really), as there were numerous very skilled divers/spearfishers in the crowd. Joining two other boats' hunters, I didn't succeed in my foray in that area, but we were given three lobster by a prolific diver on a boat we'd gotten to know well, and we had our first grilled Bahamian lobster that night. The next day, however, was surely the highlight of the trip. We were within dinghy distance, in clement weather, to visit Johnson Cay, home of our first sea bean finds last year. Despite it having been very well picked over by all the cruisers who'd been down here all winter (there are a hard- core group who spend several months in the Raggeds), that day saw us continually searching for larger containers and, in the end, carrying out a full-to-overflowing 5-gallon bucket of heart beans, and nearly 2 dozen of the prized hamburger beans. However, that bonanza was the product of walking the ocean-side beach, reached by a path laid out by prior cruisers. The anchorage side is a beautiful beach in its own regard, much longer than the sea-side beach. However, being sheltered, there are none of the castaway junk and treasures found sea-side. We started walking East, the longer leg of the beach. As we reached the end, we heard a very loud cry, repeated several times. Much to our surprise, out wandered what we assumed was a young goat. I squatted down and, sure enough, it came over to inspect us. Unlike last year, when we'd seen an extremely skittish mother and a kid near the "well," this kid had no fear of us. Accordingly, we skritched it under the chin and behind the ears, and, as it ambled around the area, gave it the full- body petting treatment. Lydia would rather be with animals than people, so this was a special treat for her. After the kid wandered off into the brush again, we returned over the same ground we'd already searched but, as we've learned from prior expeditions, not to our surprise, found nearly as many beans as we'd found on the way up. However, the west end of the beach was simply amazing. It's the area where the most of the trash accumulates, and where trash can come ashore (mostly plastic and a stupendous amount of footwear, mostly sandals, many of which are picked up by cruisers and used to mark the trails between the Atlantic and interior beaches, all over the Bahamas), there will also be sea beans. The area of the pond, or well, where we'd seen the mother and kid last year was, as it was then, a mother lode of beans. Despite our having offloaded all we'd found at our backpack before coming to the west end, the smaller buckets we'd picked up were insufficient to hold all we found. Wandering sufficiently produced that bucket which we nearly overflowed before we left. I'd also picked up another bucket full of flip-flops and other sandals, to further mark the trail back to the anchorage. This walk is relatively open, with small flora rather than lots of trees, so the easy way through wasn't immediately evident. Our good deed for the day was to populate the shrubbery along the trail with flipflops :{)) Best of all, however, just before we broke out into the anchorage beach, we heard a small bleat very close by. Immediately off the path (arm's reach), there was a VERY young kid, with its dried umbilical cord still attached. Like its sibling/cousin, this one had no fear of humans and contentedly submitted to being picked up and loved on. About the size of a cat, she fit easily into the crook of my arm, resting on my forearm while Lydia nuzzled and I petted. Set gently back on the sand, it wandered off into the bush, bleating softly. In both cases, we were rather surprised to see nothing of Mama, but blessed with the experience. Walking the anchorage shore, completely alone, we improved our overall tans we'd been working on all day as we hunted the tiny shells Lydia's become so fond of, and soon headed back home to Flying Pig, burdened with masses of beans and shells. If you're scratching your head over the attraction of sea beans, do a search for that on Google, and you'll have an idea. The bit about the shells was inspired by yet another cruiser. This cruiser makes "Sailor's Valentines" - extraordinarily detailed sea sculpture - from these tiny shells. I don't have the means to show you her work, but you can most likley find information about that art with a Google for the topic. We sailed back to Hog Cay, on yet another great day in the Bahamas, in order to pick up an order we'd left with Maxine before we went north. We'd expected to stay for several weeks, so we stocked up heavily on eggs, potatoes, veggies and greens. Unfortunately, while they'd been bought, NOBODY's (all the other cruisers were, pardon the expression, in the same boat) dairy products made it. Maxine's daughter, a Nassau resident, does the shopping there before it goes on the mail boat. Unfortunately, somehow, all the yogurt, cheese, milk, and any other dairy products, remained in the cooler when the boat departed. More unfortunately, though Maxine offered to send it to wherever we were, if we weren't able to come get it the following week, we learned via another cruiser, her daughter suffered a stroke early in the week. Maxine flew to Nassau to be with her, and, as we were going to take advantage of an unusal weather window and departing before the next order could arrive, we don't even know if Maxine would have returned by that time. We're keeping her daughter, who we met at the party, and Maxine, in our prayers... We'd come into Duncan Town to get access to the free internet provided for the entire area. Last year, we used a pavilion three men had directed us to, but the bandwidth wasn't very good there. As there had been a fund-raising lunch the prior day to which we and our buddy boat's folks had not attended, we trekked up to the school to make a donation. Nobody was there, and the principal wasn't at home, either, but the available electrical outlet and VERY good signals from two of the school's routers allowed us to complete our internet chores. Right after that, the principal returned. We'd met him at the party (just another instance of the friendliness of the locals), so we recognized each other and warm greetings were exchanged. Without our asking, he assumed that we'd come to get access to internet. Not knowing we'd already done our internet, he opened the school and got out a power strip so we could plug in. He gave us the tour after appreciatively receiving our donations, and we left. From there we went to Maxine's and picked up our orders (sans dairy...) and headed back home to our respective boats. Immediately after getting our supplies, we set out at 1:40PM on another fantastic daysail, this time up to Raccoon Cay. Starting out on a dead downwind run, under genoa only, to get us out past the shoals off Margaret Cay, we soon tacked and headed north on a beam reach. We were soon at anchor in the main anchorage of Raccoon. The following day saw more beach exploration and, very specifically, scouting for a good place to ground Flying Pig, the better to finish the cleaning job so rudely interrupted in George Town. I also did some research for diving, but didn't see anything exciting on the lee side. As the wind was still up significantly, going around to the Atlantic side wasn't an attractive thought, even to the die-hard hunters. However, the following day was forecast to be nearly calm, and great preparations were made for diving the outside reefs. We'd have to content ourselves with diving the reef on the bottom of Flying Pig, the better to ease our passage to Ft. Pierce. Well, it wasn't really a reef, but it was, as the folks on the boat to which we repaired that night, along with three other couples, referred to as hauling a shag rug around with us. Vegetation which, fortunately, yielded readily to efforts to remove it, quickly lay on the ground the next day. We'd had a perfect tidal window, with low tide very near noon, so, while I'd have dearly loved to go dive with the rest of them, this was too perfect to pass up. With a low tide at noonish, we could drive the boat aground at 10, jump in the water and get to work. Even if it took us 4 hours, we'd float off again about 2PM. As it turned out, it didn't take us all that time. Best yet (aside from that the job got completely done), while I was warming after the first 90 or so minutes in the water, one of the great hunters came aside and offered us one very large, and one medium lobster, he having gotten not only a huge one but several fish in his hunt. To enhance the experience, he showed us how to clean the lobster (cleaning as in gettng the meat to where you could use it - how does one "clean" a fish or a lobster which spends its life in the water??). The way one does that with Bahamian (no claws) lobsters is to basically remove the tail and, if it's big enough, a portion of the base of the antennae, and toss the rest overboard. Earlier, in the water, I'd noticed two large - well, one huge and one large - sting rays cruising the area around the boat. These are the same species as are basically tame at Chat'n'Chill's Conch Salad stand in George Town, and I wasn't concerned with them in the least during my time in the water. However, they LOVE lobster... So, right off the stern of Flying Pig, these rays glided over (their mouths are under their bodies) the lobster remains, and snacked while I baked in the sun. What beautiful creatures these are! I even got to see the 5' barracuda which was cruising the area when I went back down to finish off the remains of the chore. I'm a sucker for underwater fauna, and feel blessd every time I get to be up close and personal with them, so this was a real treat. Chris Parker was on vacation in George Town, but we got to talk to his replacement about the potential for a window to depart for Ft. Pierce the next morning. Pulling the weather gribs (visual depictions of wind levels and other information for a given area and time frame) over our now-functional HF radio had suggested that the next day might be good for departure. That it was earlier than we had expected was of little moment due to the unusually good conditions (wind speed and direction in the given time frame). We abandoned our thoughts of further enjoying the Raggeds with all our new-found friends, accompanied by a couple of boats' worth we'd met in George Town, and made ready to leave. And, on that note, I'll leave you here. Rays, kids, beans, shells, lobster, conch (oh, yah, I forgot to tell you about the two conch dinners aboard a friend's boat), sunshine, the beaches, the locals - what a treat. Because this is coming to you via relay from my son, or delayed if your're not part of my log distribution due to my being without internet, while you may not see all of our Jumentos (recall, that's really the Ragged Islands) travels on tinyurl.com/flyingpigspot, you probably will be able to see the passage to Ft. Pierce, if it's interesting to you. If you missed it by being in a forum when you see this, posted when I got back to internet access, you can subscribe to my log by clicking on the yahoogroups list in my signature block; you'll get them either in real time when I'm in internet range, or very close to it courtesy of my son's relay... Until next time, Stay Tuned! L8R Skip, under way to Ft. Pierce Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig KI4MPC See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery ! Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog "Believe me, my young friend, there is *nothing*-absolutely nothing- half so much worth doing as simply messing, messing-about-in-boats; messing about in boats-or *with* boats. In or out of 'em, it doesn't matter. Nothing seems really to matter, that's the charm of it. Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not." |
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