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#1
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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teak floor coating
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message ... "Capt. JG" wrote: Really? http://www.deksolje.com/ Too bad. IMHO, stuff is garbage, even in fresh water (Lake Erie). Lew Yeah, really good stuff might have lasted him 13 years instead of the 12 years he got from "garbage." |
#2
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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teak floor coating
"ElmerF." wrote: Yeah, really good stuff might have lasted him 13 years instead of the 12 years he got from "garbage." Re-read his post. Does INDOOR grab you? Lew |
#3
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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teak floor coating
On Mon, 17 Aug 2009 20:46:58 -0400, "ElmerF."
wrote: "Lew Hodgett" wrote in message .. . "Capt. JG" wrote: Really? http://www.deksolje.com/ Too bad. IMHO, stuff is garbage, even in fresh water (Lake Erie). Lew Yeah, really good stuff might have lasted him 13 years instead of the 12 years he got from "garbage." My son gave me a couple of slat type six foot teak benches. The horizontal bits need finished the rest is OK. Tung oil perhaps? Casady |
#5
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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teak floor coating
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#6
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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teak floor coating
"Vic Smith" wrote: Non-waterproof coatings for outside wood is just a fetish. Stain if needed, then use a good waterproof varnish. Strip and redo when the varnish fails. IMO. If you truly want to protect exterior wood, it is expensive but straight forward. Strip to bare wood, then apply 4-5 coats of laminating epoxy, sanding lightly between coats. It is absolutely essential that 100% of the wood is totally sealed. Allow to cure for 30 days, sand lightly, then apply 2-3 coats of marine 2 part poly to totally seal the epoxy and thus provide UV protection of the epoxy. Maintenance consists of maintaining the poly which protects the epoxy base coat. Lew |
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