anchor retrieval while single handing
 

It's typical for us to practice anchoring when I'm teaching on my boat and
when I teach in other programs. It's pretty simple stuff, but many students
are a bit freaked out by it. Perhaps they've read accounts of dragging or
they can't fathom how a small anchor can hold a big boat. Whatever. Those
notions are pretty easy to dispel after I explain it and we try it.

Even anchoring while single-handing is pretty straight-forward. I have a
remote for my auto-helm, which makes it even more simple, since I can
control the glide direction. (I don't have throttle control on the remote,
which would be an expensive proposition, and not something I'm interested in
anyway.) Basically, as the boat drifts forward in neutral, I walk to the
bow, and when the boat stops forward movement, I deploy the anchor. I let it
out fairly quickly until it touches, then I pay it out, snub, pay it out
again until I have the proper scope. If there is any decent wind or current,
I don't bother with any engine to set the hook.

Retrieving the hook single-handed is a bit more tricky, especially if the
wind is up. Since it's not possible to pull an 8,000 lbs boat up wind,
timing and engine speed have to be near perfect. As the boat comes up to
above the anchor, my timing has to be dead on. I need to get the anchor off
(or mostly off) the bottom before the wind catches the bow. If the boat is
moving too fast, then I likely won't be able to get the anchor off the
bottom, and it'll be behind the bow, under the boat. If the boat drifts off
to one side, I can snub the anchor very short, but it may not be short
enough to be off the bottom. If it is, of course, then I can get the boat
back under control in slightly deeper water, then go forward to finish the
job. If the rode still allows the anchor to sit on the bottom, then there's
a problem.

One thing I've thought of doing would be to move where I've cleated the rode
at the bow to a stern cleat. This would give me the ability to have more
precise throttle control. It would mean possibly backing with all the
inherent problem associated (e.g., maneuvering with prop walk, prop fouling
by the rode), while I pull on the rode.

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
ons...
It's typical for us to practice anchoring when I'm teaching on my boat and
when I teach in other programs. It's pretty simple stuff, but many
students are a bit freaked out by it. Perhaps they've read accounts of
dragging or they can't fathom how a small anchor can hold a big boat.
Whatever. Those notions are pretty easy to dispel after I explain it and
we try it.

Even anchoring while single-handing is pretty straight-forward. I have a
remote for my auto-helm, which makes it even more simple, since I can
control the glide direction. (I don't have throttle control on the remote,
which would be an expensive proposition, and not something I'm interested
in anyway.) Basically, as the boat drifts forward in neutral, I walk to
the bow, and when the boat stops forward movement, I deploy the anchor. I
let it out fairly quickly until it touches, then I pay it out, snub, pay
it out again until I have the proper scope. If there is any decent wind or
current, I don't bother with any engine to set the hook.

Retrieving the hook single-handed is a bit more tricky, especially if the
wind is up. Since it's not possible to pull an 8,000 lbs boat up wind,
timing and engine speed have to be near perfect. As the boat comes up to
above the anchor, my timing has to be dead on. I need to get the anchor
off (or mostly off) the bottom before the wind catches the bow. If the
boat is moving too fast, then I likely won't be able to get the anchor off
the bottom, and it'll be behind the bow, under the boat. If the boat
drifts off to one side, I can snub the anchor very short, but it may not
be short enough to be off the bottom. If it is, of course, then I can get
the boat back under control in slightly deeper water, then go forward to
finish the job. If the rode still allows the anchor to sit on the bottom,
then there's a problem.

One thing I've thought of doing would be to move where I've cleated the
rode at the bow to a stern cleat. This would give me the ability to have
more precise throttle control. It would mean possibly backing with all the
inherent problem associated (e.g., maneuvering with prop walk, prop
fouling by the rode), while I pull on the rode.

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Firstly about dropping anchor. I do not like your method of drifting forward
in neutral until the boat stops because this method does not allow you to
drop precisely where you want to, even if you are able to do it while head
to wind. Why not select your spot and stop the boat in reverse on arrival
and then just give her a little astern motion while you drop?
Your method seems likely to allow the rode to pile up on top of th anchor
and may cause a foulup. If you are going slowly astern while you drop you
avoid this and then when scope is roughly right give a harder kick astern to
dig the anchor in. then when she is settled and swung to the anchor you can
fine tune the amount of rode you have out.
Now, to retrieve it single handed I do not agree that one cannot pull an
8000 lb boat up by hand , unless of course there is a strong wind. My boat
weighs 16000lbs and in light winds I can pull her up to the anchor by
sitting on the foredeck with my feet braced into the anchor well and haul
her up till the rode is vertical or nearly so. Of course it is not a 'hand
over hand' job. You give a strong heave and give her time to respond before
you heave again. If there is too much wind give her a kick ahead with the
engine and get back up there fast to recover some more rode. Repeat as
necessary until the rode is vertical.
My anchor weighs 35 lbs and the chain part of he rode probably about
another 40, so if it is well dug in there is no way one can just pull it up.
I make fast the vertical rode and give her a good kick ahead to free the
anchor, then stop the boat again and go forward and pull it up. My anchor
does not come aboard-it stows onto the roller so getting it up and securing
it does not take long.
I do not like the idea of moving the boat with the anchor dangling but if
circumstances demanded immediate movement as soon as the anchor came free I
would go astern as my boat is extremely manoeverable in reverse and there is
no chance of the anchor swinging back under the boat and.causing a foulup.
If you were on a lee shore where going stern is not an option I would go
dead slow ahead with autopilot engaged and concentrate on getting the anchor
up as fast as possible.
Hand winches are so slow that unless you have a very big boat they only
complicate the above procedure. An electric winch makes everything simpler
on deck, at the cost of more mechanical and electrical complication below
decks, plus considerable financial cost, of course.

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Edgar" wrote in message
...

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
ons...
It's typical for us to practice anchoring when I'm teaching on my boat
and when I teach in other programs. It's pretty simple stuff, but many
students are a bit freaked out by it. Perhaps they've read accounts of
dragging or they can't fathom how a small anchor can hold a big boat.
Whatever. Those notions are pretty easy to dispel after I explain it and
we try it.

Even anchoring while single-handing is pretty straight-forward. I have a
remote for my auto-helm, which makes it even more simple, since I can
control the glide direction. (I don't have throttle control on the
remote, which would be an expensive proposition, and not something I'm
interested in anyway.) Basically, as the boat drifts forward in neutral,
I walk to the bow, and when the boat stops forward movement, I deploy the
anchor. I let it out fairly quickly until it touches, then I pay it out,
snub, pay it out again until I have the proper scope. If there is any
decent wind or current, I don't bother with any engine to set the hook.

Retrieving the hook single-handed is a bit more tricky, especially if the
wind is up. Since it's not possible to pull an 8,000 lbs boat up wind,
timing and engine speed have to be near perfect. As the boat comes up to
above the anchor, my timing has to be dead on. I need to get the anchor
off (or mostly off) the bottom before the wind catches the bow. If the
boat is moving too fast, then I likely won't be able to get the anchor
off the bottom, and it'll be behind the bow, under the boat. If the boat
drifts off to one side, I can snub the anchor very short, but it may not
be short enough to be off the bottom. If it is, of course, then I can get
the boat back under control in slightly deeper water, then go forward to
finish the job. If the rode still allows the anchor to sit on the bottom,
then there's a problem.

One thing I've thought of doing would be to move where I've cleated the
rode at the bow to a stern cleat. This would give me the ability to have
more precise throttle control. It would mean possibly backing with all
the inherent problem associated (e.g., maneuvering with prop walk, prop
fouling by the rode), while I pull on the rode.

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Firstly about dropping anchor. I do not like your method of drifting
forward in neutral until the boat stops because this method does not allow
you to drop precisely where you want to, even if you are able to do it
while head to wind. Why not select your spot and stop the boat in reverse
on arrival and then just give her a little astern motion while you drop?

Actually, it's pretty precise, which is why I do that. If I motor up to a
spot and stop, I would no longer be at that spot nor stopped by the time I
got forward and deployed.

Your method seems likely to allow the rode to pile up on top of th anchor
and may cause a foulup. If you are going slowly astern while you drop you
avoid this and then when scope is roughly right give a harder kick astern
to dig the anchor in. then when she is settled and swung to the anchor you
can fine tune the amount of rode you have out.

Nope. I said, "when the boat stops forward movement, I deploy the anchor. I
let it out fairly quickly until it touches, then I pay it out, snub, pay it
out again until I have the proper scope." I guess I should have said,
although it seemed obvious that there is a wind effect that backs to boat,
allowing me specifically not to pile up rode.

Now, to retrieve it single handed I do not agree that one cannot pull an
8000 lb boat up by hand , unless of course there is a strong wind. My boat
weighs 16000lbs and in light winds I can pull her up to the anchor by
sitting on the foredeck with my feet braced into the anchor well and haul
her up till the rode is vertical or nearly so. Of course it is not a 'hand
over hand' job. You give a strong heave and give her time to respond
before you heave again. If there is too much wind give her a kick ahead
with the engine and get back up there fast to recover some more rode.
Repeat as necessary until the rode is vertical.

Define strong wind. Anything over about 10 kts, which is typical around here
would make it impossible to move the boat. For the last class, we were
anchoring in over 15kts. What works for me, although as I said I have to be
pretty accurate, is to get the engine speed to just barely move the boat
ahead, snub as necessary, then get it settled down and finish the job.

My anchor weighs 35 lbs and the chain part of he rode probably about
another 40, so if it is well dug in there is no way one can just pull it
up. I make fast the vertical rode and give her a good kick ahead to free
the anchor, then stop the boat again and go forward and pull it up. My
anchor does not come aboard-it stows onto the roller so getting it up and
securing it does not take long.

This isn't an issue. My Bruce is much smaller and there isn't much chain.
You're correct that if it did get stuck, I would motor over it while
snubbing to break it free. It's all mud out here.

I do not like the idea of moving the boat with the anchor dangling but if
circumstances demanded immediate movement as soon as the anchor came free
I would go astern as my boat is extremely manoeverable in reverse and
there is no chance of the anchor swinging back under the boat and.causing
a foulup. If you were on a lee shore where going stern is not an option I
would go dead slow ahead with autopilot engaged and concentrate on getting
the anchor up as fast as possible.

Not sure what you're trying to say here... if the rode is snubbed short and
the boat speed is low (why wouldn't it be?) then foulups aren't likely.

Hand winches are so slow that unless you have a very big boat they only
complicate the above procedure. An electric winch makes everything simpler
on deck, at the cost of more mechanical and electrical complication below
decks, plus considerable financial cost, of course.

I'd like an electric at some point. If I finally do that, I'd probably get a
bigger Bruce.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:11:19 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.

My last couple of boats have had anchor windlasses with remote
controls at the helm. Works like a charm.

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 17:41:59 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I'd like an electric at some point. If I finally do that, I'd probably get a
bigger Bruce.

And that's a major advantage of a windlass, you can get an anchor big
enough to do the job in all conditions without being concerned about
retrieving it. Most serious cruising boats that we see are on very
heavy anchors and an all chain rode.

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Capt. JG" wrote:

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.

Think windlass.

Lew

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Wayne.B" wrote:

Most serious cruising boats that we see are on very
heavy anchors and an all chain rode.

With or without a snubber?

Lew

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 17:41:59 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I'd like an electric at some point. If I finally do that, I'd probably get
a
bigger Bruce.

And that's a major advantage of a windlass, you can get an anchor big
enough to do the job in all conditions without being concerned about
retrieving it. Most serious cruising boats that we see are on very
heavy anchors and an all chain rode.


I would still be concerned about retrieving it... perhaps more so if the
windlass quits.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:11:19 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.

My last couple of boats have had anchor windlasses with remote
controls at the helm. Works like a charm.


Too rich for my blood...

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

Capt. JG wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:11:19 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.
My last couple of boats have had anchor windlasses with remote
controls at the helm. Works like a charm.


Too rich for my blood...


Mine too, but it is a valid question.

My only suggestion is to haul in line from the cockpit.

Pull the rode in taught to the bow and tie it off.
Then haul away as you move toward the anchor.

No need to actually "go forward" for that.


Richard

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"cavelamb" wrote in message
m...
Capt. JG wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:11:19 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.
My last couple of boats have had anchor windlasses with remote
controls at the helm. Works like a charm.


Too rich for my blood...


Mine too, but it is a valid question.

My only suggestion is to haul in line from the cockpit.

Pull the rode in taught to the bow and tie it off.
Then haul away as you move toward the anchor.

No need to actually "go forward" for that.


Richard


I don't really follow you... if it's tied off at the bow? Perhaps you mean
tie it off at the cockpit cleat? I've thought of that, but my concern is
that it could wrap the prop, since the boat would be moving forward. You'd
have to be very careful to keep the line taught.


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

Capt. JG wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message
m...
Capt. JG wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:11:19 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.
My last couple of boats have had anchor windlasses with remote
controls at the helm. Works like a charm.

Too rich for my blood...

Mine too, but it is a valid question.

My only suggestion is to haul in line from the cockpit.

Pull the rode in taught to the bow and tie it off.
Then haul away as you move toward the anchor.

No need to actually "go forward" for that.


Richard


I don't really follow you... if it's tied off at the bow? Perhaps you mean
tie it off at the cockpit cleat? I've thought of that, but my concern is
that it could wrap the prop, since the boat would be moving forward. You'd
have to be very careful to keep the line taught.



Yes, just so the line to the bow doesn't loop under and foul something.
And yes, keep the line taught.

Have you tried a curved approach?

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 02:42:21 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


"Wayne.B" wrote:

Most serious cruising boats that we see are on very
heavy anchors and an all chain rode.

With or without a snubber?

Lew


I suspect that most are using a snubber as a casual survey (I had a
look at all the boats between me and the shore this morning) showed
that only one of them had a chain stopper and I seriously doubt that
they all are using the gipsy as a hard point.
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 02:30:02 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Capt. JG wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message
m...
Capt. JG wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:11:19 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.
My last couple of boats have had anchor windlasses with remote
controls at the helm. Works like a charm.

Too rich for my blood...

Mine too, but it is a valid question.

My only suggestion is to haul in line from the cockpit.

Pull the rode in taught to the bow and tie it off.
Then haul away as you move toward the anchor.

No need to actually "go forward" for that.


Richard


I don't really follow you... if it's tied off at the bow? Perhaps you mean
tie it off at the cockpit cleat? I've thought of that, but my concern is
that it could wrap the prop, since the boat would be moving forward. You'd
have to be very careful to keep the line taught.



Yes, just so the line to the bow doesn't loop under and foul something.
And yes, keep the line taught.

Have you tried a curved approach?

I knew a bloke who, when he wanted to retrieve the anchor, just ran
the anchor rode over the bow roller and back to one of the sheet
winches. Drive the boat ahead a bit and wind in on the winch.

He said it worked a treat.

By the way. Most electric anchor winches have a manual system to
operate them if the electrical power fails.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 02:42:21 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


"Wayne.B" wrote:

Most serious cruising boats that we see are on very
heavy anchors and an all chain rode.

With or without a snubber?


With a snubber and chain hook. That seems to be almost universal
practice. We have a chain stopper in front of the windlass but the
nylon snubber line provides shock absorption and prevents chain
rattle.

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 20:55:45 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:11:19 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.

My last couple of boats have had anchor windlasses with remote
controls at the helm. Works like a charm.


Too rich for my blood...

How much are your back and your boat worth ?

We have several possibilities for manual retreival if the windlass
fails. On a sailboat an obvious back up method is to run a snubber
line with chain hook aft to a sheet winch in the cockpit, locking off
the chain and repositioning the chain hook as necessary.

anchor retrieval while single handing esential information.
 

cavelamb wrote:
Capt. JG wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message

Have you tried a curved approach?

This is a very interesting thread but as with other similar threads each
posters omits an essential piece of information. That information is
the size of the boat that they are talking about. The posters to this
group have many different types of boats. Retrieving an anchor on a 17"
bass boat is different that picking it up on a 21' sailboat, If you
have a 40' sailboat it will be significantly different than either of
the above boats.

I have a 21' sailboat that is dock and trailer sailed so don't have much
to contribute to this thread but I would like to learn when I upgrade to
a bigger boat.

anchor retrieval while single handing esential information.
 

"Keith Nuttle" wrote in message
...
cavelamb wrote:
Capt. JG wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message

Have you tried a curved approach?

This is a very interesting thread but as with other similar threads each
posters omits an essential piece of information. That information is the
size of the boat that they are talking about.

Not really.
Jon started the thread and said his boat weighs 8000 lb. We also know from
previous posts that it is about 30-32 feet.
My reply made it clear that my boat weighs 16000 lb and for the record it is
38'.

anchor retrieval while single handing esential information.
 

Keith Nuttle wrote:
cavelamb wrote:
Capt. JG wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message

Have you tried a curved approach?

This is a very interesting thread but as with other similar threads each
posters omits an essential piece of information. That information is
the size of the boat that they are talking about. The posters to this
group have many different types of boats. Retrieving an anchor on a 17"
bass boat is different that picking it up on a 21' sailboat, If you
have a 40' sailboat it will be significantly different than either of
the above boats.

I have a 21' sailboat that is dock and trailer sailed so don't have much
to contribute to this thread but I would like to learn when I upgrade to
a bigger boat.



Good point.

I have a 26 footer.
But no, ya can't trailer it...

http://www.home.earthlink.net/~capri26/

Richard

anchor retrieval while single handing esential information.
 

On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 08:33:42 -0400, Keith Nuttle
wrote:

cavelamb wrote:
Capt. JG wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message

Have you tried a curved approach?

This is a very interesting thread but as with other similar threads each
posters omits an essential piece of information. That information is
the size of the boat that they are talking about. The posters to this
group have many different types of boats. Retrieving an anchor on a 17"
bass boat is different that picking it up on a 21' sailboat, If you
have a 40' sailboat it will be significantly different than either of
the above boats.

I have a 21' sailboat that is dock and trailer sailed so don't have much
to contribute to this thread but I would like to learn when I upgrade to
a bigger boat.


On walking the docks it seems that the "average" cruising boat seen
here is between, say 35 feet (and that would be pretty much the
smallest) and 55 or 60 feet. Probably the average is 40 ft. Of
course, they have all sailed here from somewhere else.

I would say that with the exception of an occasional manual windless
they are all equipped with electric anchor windless and probably 90%+
are using all chain rode and fairly heavy anchors. My own 40 ft sloop
displaces about 13 tons and has 45 lb. and 60 lb. CQR anchors and 200
ft. of 5/16 inch chain. If I were making off shore voyages I would
carry an additional 100 mtrs of 1 inch nylon rode for a total of 528
feet. Probably fairly typical of the anchoring equipment you see here.

Just for information (and I don't recommend it) I did make a trip down
to Malaysia and back with an inoperative anchor windless and hauled
the anchor once a day by hand, for six days.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"cavelamb" wrote in message
m...
Capt. JG wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message
m...
Capt. JG wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:11:19 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.
My last couple of boats have had anchor windlasses with remote
controls at the helm. Works like a charm.

Too rich for my blood...

Mine too, but it is a valid question.

My only suggestion is to haul in line from the cockpit.

Pull the rode in taught to the bow and tie it off.
Then haul away as you move toward the anchor.

No need to actually "go forward" for that.


Richard


I don't really follow you... if it's tied off at the bow? Perhaps you
mean tie it off at the cockpit cleat? I've thought of that, but my
concern is that it could wrap the prop, since the boat would be moving
forward. You'd have to be very careful to keep the line taught.



Yes, just so the line to the bow doesn't loop under and foul something.
And yes, keep the line taught.

Have you tried a curved approach?



Sorry... still confused by your explanation... is rode cleated at the bow or
the stern? I guess my trepidation to a stern cleat is that I'd have the
line, the helm control, and the engine to deal with all at the same time.
For my engine control, I have a throttle and a transmission shift, so it's
even more complicated.

Not familar with "curved approach" terminology...


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 02:30:02 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Capt. JG wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message
m...
Capt. JG wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:11:19 -0700, "Capt. JG"

wrote:

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.
My last couple of boats have had anchor windlasses with remote
controls at the helm. Works like a charm.

Too rich for my blood...

Mine too, but it is a valid question.

My only suggestion is to haul in line from the cockpit.

Pull the rode in taught to the bow and tie it off.
Then haul away as you move toward the anchor.

No need to actually "go forward" for that.


Richard


I don't really follow you... if it's tied off at the bow? Perhaps you
mean
tie it off at the cockpit cleat? I've thought of that, but my concern is
that it could wrap the prop, since the boat would be moving forward.
You'd
have to be very careful to keep the line taught.



Yes, just so the line to the bow doesn't loop under and foul something.
And yes, keep the line taught.

Have you tried a curved approach?

I knew a bloke who, when he wanted to retrieve the anchor, just ran
the anchor rode over the bow roller and back to one of the sheet
winches. Drive the boat ahead a bit and wind in on the winch.

He said it worked a treat.

By the way. Most electric anchor winches have a manual system to
operate them if the electrical power fails.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)


Interesting idea. I would need to stop to deal with the chain (only 10 feet
or so), because I don't want to take a chance on damaging the furler.

I might just try this (not single-handed the first time). Of course, it
might make a mess with the mud. I guess I'm being picky.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

anchor retrieval while single handing esential information.
 

"Keith Nuttle" wrote in message
...
cavelamb wrote:
Capt. JG wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message

Have you tried a curved approach?

This is a very interesting thread but as with other similar threads each
posters omits an essential piece of information. That information is the
size of the boat that they are talking about. The posters to this group
have many different types of boats. Retrieving an anchor on a 17" bass
boat is different that picking it up on a 21' sailboat, If you have a 40'
sailboat it will be significantly different than either of the above
boats.

I have a 21' sailboat that is dock and trailer sailed so don't have much
to contribute to this thread but I would like to learn when I upgrade to a
bigger boat.



It's a 30' Sabre. There are a bunch of people here who know that, but I
should have included it. I did say 8000 lbs at one point, however.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

anchor retrieval while single handing esential information.
 

"Edgar" wrote in message
...

"Keith Nuttle" wrote in message
...
cavelamb wrote:
Capt. JG wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message

Have you tried a curved approach?

This is a very interesting thread but as with other similar threads each
posters omits an essential piece of information. That information is the
size of the boat that they are talking about.

Not really.
Jon started the thread and said his boat weighs 8000 lb. We also know from
previous posts that it is about 30-32 feet.
My reply made it clear that my boat weighs 16000 lb and for the record it
is 38'.

Nice size boat. I was thinking about getting something bigger than the 30 in
the next couple of years. 34-38 is the range I'm considering.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

anchor retrieval while single handing esential information.
 

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 08:33:42 -0400, Keith Nuttle
wrote:

cavelamb wrote:
Capt. JG wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message

Have you tried a curved approach?

This is a very interesting thread but as with other similar threads each
posters omits an essential piece of information. That information is
the size of the boat that they are talking about. The posters to this
group have many different types of boats. Retrieving an anchor on a 17"
bass boat is different that picking it up on a 21' sailboat, If you
have a 40' sailboat it will be significantly different than either of
the above boats.

I have a 21' sailboat that is dock and trailer sailed so don't have much
to contribute to this thread but I would like to learn when I upgrade to
a bigger boat.


On walking the docks it seems that the "average" cruising boat seen
here is between, say 35 feet (and that would be pretty much the
smallest) and 55 or 60 feet. Probably the average is 40 ft. Of
course, they have all sailed here from somewhere else.

I would say that with the exception of an occasional manual windless
they are all equipped with electric anchor windless and probably 90%+
are using all chain rode and fairly heavy anchors. My own 40 ft sloop
displaces about 13 tons and has 45 lb. and 60 lb. CQR anchors and 200
ft. of 5/16 inch chain. If I were making off shore voyages I would
carry an additional 100 mtrs of 1 inch nylon rode for a total of 528
feet. Probably fairly typical of the anchoring equipment you see here.

Just for information (and I don't recommend it) I did make a trip down
to Malaysia and back with an inoperative anchor windless and hauled
the anchor once a day by hand, for six days.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)


A long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away, in the BVI, we re-anchored five
times in a row on a 40 foot Beneteau. My crew was not happy after #2, ****ed
off after #3, angry and surly after #4, and ready to get out the long boat
for me if #5 wasn't too my liking. No windlass other than manual.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 20:55:45 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:11:19 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.

My last couple of boats have had anchor windlasses with remote
controls at the helm. Works like a charm.


Too rich for my blood...

How much are your back and your boat worth ?

We have several possibilities for manual retreival if the windlass
fails. On a sailboat an obvious back up method is to run a snubber
line with chain hook aft to a sheet winch in the cockpit, locking off
the chain and repositioning the chain hook as necessary.


Back is good. Boat is insured. lol

Also, I tend to be pretty cautious about where I anchor when by myself. I
don't put the boat in a spot that's relatively unprotected should the wind
increase, such as near the entrance to Sausalito. I stick with the lee of
Angel Island or Paradise. Local knowledge and all that....


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 10:52:02 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

Back is good. Boat is insured. lol

Also, I tend to be pretty cautious about where I anchor when by myself. I
don't put the boat in a spot that's relatively unprotected should the wind
increase, such as near the entrance to Sausalito. I stick with the lee of
Angel Island or Paradise. Local knowledge and all that....

A lot depends on priorities and how you use the boat. If we're out
cruising in the boondocks the anchor system *is* the insurance policy,
the insurance that we and the boat will be ok when, not if, a squall
comes through in the middle of the night.

On the other hand if you are mostly say sailing in your own backyard,
any old lunch hook will do. I'm always amazed at the holding power
of a well set Danforth 13 pounder.

anchor retrieval while single handing esential information.
 

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
I would say that with the exception of an occasional manual windless
they are all equipped with electric anchor windless and probably 90%+
are using all chain rode and fairly heavy anchors. My own 40 ft sloop
displaces about 13 tons and has 45 lb. and 60 lb. CQR anchors and 200
ft. of 5/16 inch chain. If I were making off shore voyages I would
carry an additional 100 mtrs of 1 inch nylon rode for a total of 528
feet. Probably fairly typical of the anchoring equipment you see here.

Just for information (and I don't recommend it) I did make a trip down
to Malaysia and back with an inoperative anchor windless and hauled
the anchor once a day by hand, for six days.

I would suggest that your proposed 1" rode would be somewhat of an overkill.
Although the possibility of chafe is a factor the breaking strain of your
5/16 chain is about 3 tons, while the breaking strain of 1" dia nylon is
about 10 tons. Certainly you must consider safety factors and the question
of chafe on the nylon but I would suggest 14mm nylon instead , which would
allow you to stow a longer length of it.

anchor retrieval while single handing esential information.
 

"Edgar" wrote in message
...

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
I would say that with the exception of an occasional manual windless
they are all equipped with electric anchor windless and probably 90%+
are using all chain rode and fairly heavy anchors. My own 40 ft sloop
displaces about 13 tons and has 45 lb. and 60 lb. CQR anchors and 200
ft. of 5/16 inch chain. If I were making off shore voyages I would
carry an additional 100 mtrs of 1 inch nylon rode for a total of 528
feet. Probably fairly typical of the anchoring equipment you see here.

Just for information (and I don't recommend it) I did make a trip down
to Malaysia and back with an inoperative anchor windless and hauled
the anchor once a day by hand, for six days.

I would suggest that your proposed 1" rode would be somewhat of an
overkill. Although the possibility of chafe is a factor the breaking
strain of your 5/16 chain is about 3 tons, while the breaking strain of 1"
dia nylon is about 10 tons. Certainly you must consider safety factors and
the question of chafe on the nylon but I would suggest 14mm nylon instead
, which would allow you to stow a longer length of it.




Bruce in Bangkok is all talk and no action. He's been stuck there at the
dock for thirty years now. He let that slip in one of his posts a couple
months ago.

5/16 chain is inadequate for a boat his size. A boat his size is too large
for his abilities to sail in the first place. That is why he's been stuck
for so long - no longer sailing - but still trying to sound like an expert.
A man should sail a boat that has properly sized anchors for it that he can
weigh without mechanical assistance. This means a boat of 30 foot max for a
single-hander. About 34 feet for a crew of two. A fit male sailor can weigh
anchors in the 30 pound range with a suitable length of chain attached by
hand.

For a 13 ton, 40-footer one should use 3/8 chain and 5/8 inch nylon. Twin
bowers should be 60 pounds each minimum and storm anchor stowed below over a
hundred pounds.

Wilbur Hubbard

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 10:52:02 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

Back is good. Boat is insured. lol

Also, I tend to be pretty cautious about where I anchor when by myself. I
don't put the boat in a spot that's relatively unprotected should the wind
increase, such as near the entrance to Sausalito. I stick with the lee of
Angel Island or Paradise. Local knowledge and all that....

A lot depends on priorities and how you use the boat. If we're out
cruising in the boondocks the anchor system *is* the insurance policy,
the insurance that we and the boat will be ok when, not if, a squall
comes through in the middle of the night.

On the other hand if you are mostly say sailing in your own backyard,
any old lunch hook will do. I'm always amazed at the holding power
of a well set Danforth 13 pounder.


Yep. I'm mostly in the SF bay, but do take overnights in the bay and in
other nearby places. If you're careful about where you stop, you can always
get decent holding. My Bruce is in the same range. I think my old boat shoe
would hold well in bay mud. If I was going anywhere of significance, I would
upgrade the current Bruce. (I also have a backup Danforth 13 in a lazz.)


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

anchor retrieval while single handing esential information.
 

Capt. JG wrote:


A long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away, in the BVI, we re-anchored five
times in a row on a 40 foot Beneteau. My crew was not happy after #2, ****ed
off after #3, angry and surly after #4, and ready to get out the long boat
for me if #5 wasn't too my liking. No windlass other than manual.


I key aspect of my anchoring theory is that its important to end up in
the correct spot, even if it means recovering and redeploying, even
several times. My old boat came with of chain (effectively all chain
for my needs) and a tedious old S/L manual windlass. At first I was
impressed with the "serious" gear but then realized I was avoiding
redeploying and thus ending up in worse positions. The next year I cut
the chain in half and replaced the heavy CQR with a lighter Delta and
was much more successful anchoring. I could handle the anchor without
the windlass, using it only if there was a severe situation.

anchor retrieval while single handing esential information.
 

On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 20:51:13 +0200, "Edgar"
wrote:


"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
.. .
I would say that with the exception of an occasional manual windless
they are all equipped with electric anchor windless and probably 90%+
are using all chain rode and fairly heavy anchors. My own 40 ft sloop
displaces about 13 tons and has 45 lb. and 60 lb. CQR anchors and 200
ft. of 5/16 inch chain. If I were making off shore voyages I would
carry an additional 100 mtrs of 1 inch nylon rode for a total of 528
feet. Probably fairly typical of the anchoring equipment you see here.

Just for information (and I don't recommend it) I did make a trip down
to Malaysia and back with an inoperative anchor windless and hauled
the anchor once a day by hand, for six days.

I would suggest that your proposed 1" rode would be somewhat of an overkill.
Although the possibility of chafe is a factor the breaking strain of your
5/16 chain is about 3 tons, while the breaking strain of 1" dia nylon is
about 10 tons. Certainly you must consider safety factors and the question
of chafe on the nylon but I would suggest 14mm nylon instead , which would
allow you to stow a longer length of it.

It probably is overkill. On the other hand I got it cheap. A chap
ordered a spool of 1 inch and after it arrived decided that he really
didn't need all that rope so gave me 100 M. It fitted, carefully
packed, in one locker under the vee birth; I spliced a thimble in the
end and decided that it was an emergency mooring/anchor line.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 10:44:37 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 02:30:02 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Capt. JG wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message
m...
Capt. JG wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:11:19 -0700, "Capt. JG"

wrote:

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.
My last couple of boats have had anchor windlasses with remote
controls at the helm. Works like a charm.

Too rich for my blood...

Mine too, but it is a valid question.

My only suggestion is to haul in line from the cockpit.

Pull the rode in taught to the bow and tie it off.
Then haul away as you move toward the anchor.

No need to actually "go forward" for that.


Richard


I don't really follow you... if it's tied off at the bow? Perhaps you
mean
tie it off at the cockpit cleat? I've thought of that, but my concern is
that it could wrap the prop, since the boat would be moving forward.
You'd
have to be very careful to keep the line taught.



Yes, just so the line to the bow doesn't loop under and foul something.
And yes, keep the line taught.

Have you tried a curved approach?

I knew a bloke who, when he wanted to retrieve the anchor, just ran
the anchor rode over the bow roller and back to one of the sheet
winches. Drive the boat ahead a bit and wind in on the winch.

He said it worked a treat.

By the way. Most electric anchor winches have a manual system to
operate them if the electrical power fails.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)


Interesting idea. I would need to stop to deal with the chain (only 10 feet
or so), because I don't want to take a chance on damaging the furler.

I might just try this (not single-handed the first time). Of course, it
might make a mess with the mud. I guess I'm being picky.

The chain shouldn't enter into it. Just wind the rope in until the
chain arrives, let the chain and anchor dangle and sail off. Once you
get moving and out of the "parking lot" you should be able to go
forward and heave in the chain and secure the anchor.

As for mud.... well you makes your choice. Either go forward and wash
things off as the line comes in or leave it dirty and handle it from
the cockpit :-)

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 10:44:37 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
. ..
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 02:30:02 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Capt. JG wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message
m...
Capt. JG wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:11:19 -0700, "Capt. JG"

wrote:

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution
or
suggestion.
My last couple of boats have had anchor windlasses with remote
controls at the helm. Works like a charm.

Too rich for my blood...

Mine too, but it is a valid question.

My only suggestion is to haul in line from the cockpit.

Pull the rode in taught to the bow and tie it off.
Then haul away as you move toward the anchor.

No need to actually "go forward" for that.


Richard


I don't really follow you... if it's tied off at the bow? Perhaps you
mean
tie it off at the cockpit cleat? I've thought of that, but my concern
is
that it could wrap the prop, since the boat would be moving forward.
You'd
have to be very careful to keep the line taught.



Yes, just so the line to the bow doesn't loop under and foul something.
And yes, keep the line taught.

Have you tried a curved approach?

I knew a bloke who, when he wanted to retrieve the anchor, just ran
the anchor rode over the bow roller and back to one of the sheet
winches. Drive the boat ahead a bit and wind in on the winch.

He said it worked a treat.

By the way. Most electric anchor winches have a manual system to
operate them if the electrical power fails.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)


Interesting idea. I would need to stop to deal with the chain (only 10
feet
or so), because I don't want to take a chance on damaging the furler.

I might just try this (not single-handed the first time). Of course, it
might make a mess with the mud. I guess I'm being picky.

The chain shouldn't enter into it. Just wind the rope in until the
chain arrives, let the chain and anchor dangle and sail off. Once you
get moving and out of the "parking lot" you should be able to go
forward and heave in the chain and secure the anchor.

One hopes, but I typically anchor in 10 feet or under.

As for mud.... well you makes your choice. Either go forward and wash
things off as the line comes in or leave it dirty and handle it from
the cockpit :-)

I typically don't worry about the line, since it goes in the locker, just
the anchor mud. I guess I just need to try it.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

One hopes, but I typically anchor in 10 feet or under.

As for mud.... well you makes your choice. Either go forward and wash
things off as the line comes in or leave it dirty and handle it from
the cockpit :-)

I typically don't worry about the line, since it goes in the locker, just
the anchor mud. I guess I just need to try it.


I've been thinking about adding some plumbing to the wash down pump to
spray the rode as it comes up.

It's not high on the priority list.
As it is, I just hose down the anchor locker once everything is stowed.

Richard

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 20:58:04 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:


One hopes, but I typically anchor in 10 feet or under.

As for mud.... well you makes your choice. Either go forward and wash
things off as the line comes in or leave it dirty and handle it from
the cockpit :-)

I typically don't worry about the line, since it goes in the locker, just
the anchor mud. I guess I just need to try it.


I've been thinking about adding some plumbing to the wash down pump to
spray the rode as it comes up.

It's not high on the priority list.
As it is, I just hose down the anchor locker once everything is stowed.

Richard


I've seen a couple of guys try that - special permanent nozzles aimed
at the rode as it spools in. Doesn't work well as mud is not always in
the same place.

I use a hose with nozzle connected to the salt water washdown
connection. One foot on the switch and lean over the bow pulpit and
spray where it is needed.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 17:45:15 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 10:44:37 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 02:30:02 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Capt. JG wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message
m...
Capt. JG wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:11:19 -0700, "Capt. JG"

wrote:

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution
or
suggestion.
My last couple of boats have had anchor windlasses with remote
controls at the helm. Works like a charm.

Too rich for my blood...

Mine too, but it is a valid question.

My only suggestion is to haul in line from the cockpit.

Pull the rode in taught to the bow and tie it off.
Then haul away as you move toward the anchor.

No need to actually "go forward" for that.


Richard


I don't really follow you... if it's tied off at the bow? Perhaps you
mean
tie it off at the cockpit cleat? I've thought of that, but my concern
is
that it could wrap the prop, since the boat would be moving forward.
You'd
have to be very careful to keep the line taught.



Yes, just so the line to the bow doesn't loop under and foul something.
And yes, keep the line taught.

Have you tried a curved approach?

I knew a bloke who, when he wanted to retrieve the anchor, just ran
the anchor rode over the bow roller and back to one of the sheet
winches. Drive the boat ahead a bit and wind in on the winch.

He said it worked a treat.

By the way. Most electric anchor winches have a manual system to
operate them if the electrical power fails.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)


Interesting idea. I would need to stop to deal with the chain (only 10
feet
or so), because I don't want to take a chance on damaging the furler.

I might just try this (not single-handed the first time). Of course, it
might make a mess with the mud. I guess I'm being picky.

The chain shouldn't enter into it. Just wind the rope in until the
chain arrives, let the chain and anchor dangle and sail off. Once you
get moving and out of the "parking lot" you should be able to go
forward and heave in the chain and secure the anchor.

One hopes, but I typically anchor in 10 feet or under.

So you are talking about, probably 50 ft. of rode and the anchor. I've
seen guys keep a pair of heavy gloves up forward and just haul the
line in. Unless the wind is blowing a gale you can always give her a
blast of forward and then run up and haul.

As for mud.... well you makes your choice. Either go forward and wash
things off as the line comes in or leave it dirty and handle it from
the cockpit :-)

I typically don't worry about the line, since it goes in the locker, just
the anchor mud. I guess I just need to try it.

I have seen boats with water streaming out of the chain locker drains.
I asked and it seems that sometimes they wind the anchor in and then
stick a hose down in the chain locker and wash all the muck overboard.
I can't do that on my boat as the chain locker drains into the bilge
but it seems a good scheme.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 20:58:04 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

One hopes, but I typically anchor in 10 feet or under.

As for mud.... well you makes your choice. Either go forward and wash
things off as the line comes in or leave it dirty and handle it from
the cockpit :-)
I typically don't worry about the line, since it goes in the locker, just
the anchor mud. I guess I just need to try it.

I've been thinking about adding some plumbing to the wash down pump to
spray the rode as it comes up.

It's not high on the priority list.
As it is, I just hose down the anchor locker once everything is stowed.

Richard


I've seen a couple of guys try that - special permanent nozzles aimed
at the rode as it spools in. Doesn't work well as mud is not always in
the same place.

I use a hose with nozzle connected to the salt water washdown
connection. One foot on the switch and lean over the bow pulpit and
spray where it is needed.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

I imagined aiming through the anchor roller.
Just deluge the whole thing while the line is coming up.

But, as you say, it probably would still need to be cleaned afterwards.

Foot on the switch...
Man, the luxury of a proper yacht!

I'd settle for a spare two speed winch!

Richard

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"cavelamb" wrote in message
m...

One hopes, but I typically anchor in 10 feet or under.

As for mud.... well you makes your choice. Either go forward and wash
things off as the line comes in or leave it dirty and handle it from
the cockpit :-)

I typically don't worry about the line, since it goes in the locker, just
the anchor mud. I guess I just need to try it.


I've been thinking about adding some plumbing to the wash down pump to
spray the rode as it comes up.

It's not high on the priority list.
As it is, I just hose down the anchor locker once everything is stowed.

Richard


Yeah... that's what I do. If I don't return to the marina after one night
anchored out, then the anchor usually gets washed off by the chop/spray the
next day.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 17:45:15 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
. ..
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 10:44:37 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
m...
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 02:30:02 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Capt. JG wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message
m...
Capt. JG wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:11:19 -0700, "Capt. JG"

wrote:

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution
or
suggestion.
My last couple of boats have had anchor windlasses with remote
controls at the helm. Works like a charm.

Too rich for my blood...

Mine too, but it is a valid question.

My only suggestion is to haul in line from the cockpit.

Pull the rode in taught to the bow and tie it off.
Then haul away as you move toward the anchor.

No need to actually "go forward" for that.


Richard


I don't really follow you... if it's tied off at the bow? Perhaps
you
mean
tie it off at the cockpit cleat? I've thought of that, but my
concern
is
that it could wrap the prop, since the boat would be moving forward.
You'd
have to be very careful to keep the line taught.



Yes, just so the line to the bow doesn't loop under and foul
something.
And yes, keep the line taught.

Have you tried a curved approach?

I knew a bloke who, when he wanted to retrieve the anchor, just ran
the anchor rode over the bow roller and back to one of the sheet
winches. Drive the boat ahead a bit and wind in on the winch.

He said it worked a treat.

By the way. Most electric anchor winches have a manual system to
operate them if the electrical power fails.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)


Interesting idea. I would need to stop to deal with the chain (only 10
feet
or so), because I don't want to take a chance on damaging the furler.

I might just try this (not single-handed the first time). Of course, it
might make a mess with the mud. I guess I'm being picky.

The chain shouldn't enter into it. Just wind the rope in until the
chain arrives, let the chain and anchor dangle and sail off. Once you
get moving and out of the "parking lot" you should be able to go
forward and heave in the chain and secure the anchor.

One hopes, but I typically anchor in 10 feet or under.

So you are talking about, probably 50 ft. of rode and the anchor. I've
seen guys keep a pair of heavy gloves up forward and just haul the
line in. Unless the wind is blowing a gale you can always give her a
blast of forward and then run up and haul.

As for mud.... well you makes your choice. Either go forward and wash
things off as the line comes in or leave it dirty and handle it from
the cockpit :-)

I typically don't worry about the line, since it goes in the locker, just
the anchor mud. I guess I just need to try it.

I have seen boats with water streaming out of the chain locker drains.
I asked and it seems that sometimes they wind the anchor in and then
stick a hose down in the chain locker and wash all the muck overboard.
I can't do that on my boat as the chain locker drains into the bilge
but it seems a good scheme.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)


I'm usually at 6-7 to 1, so near 100 ft, unless it just a lunch hook (which
is more like 60 or so, depending on the wind speed).

Mine drains overboard directly through a pee hole. Works fine, since there's
rarely enough mud on the line/chain to clog it for long.


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com