anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 23:46:35 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 20:58:04 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

One hopes, but I typically anchor in 10 feet or under.

As for mud.... well you makes your choice. Either go forward and wash
things off as the line comes in or leave it dirty and handle it from
the cockpit :-)
I typically don't worry about the line, since it goes in the locker, just
the anchor mud. I guess I just need to try it.

I've been thinking about adding some plumbing to the wash down pump to
spray the rode as it comes up.

It's not high on the priority list.
As it is, I just hose down the anchor locker once everything is stowed.

Richard


I've seen a couple of guys try that - special permanent nozzles aimed
at the rode as it spools in. Doesn't work well as mud is not always in
the same place.

I use a hose with nozzle connected to the salt water washdown
connection. One foot on the switch and lean over the bow pulpit and
spray where it is needed.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

I imagined aiming through the anchor roller.
Just deluge the whole thing while the line is coming up.

But, as you say, it probably would still need to be cleaned afterwards.

Foot on the switch...
Man, the luxury of a proper yacht!

I'd settle for a spare two speed winch!

Richard

One of the guys that rigged the automatic anchor washer was one of
these guys that are GONNA MAKE IT WORK! He frigged with that thing
most of the summer. After several months I noticed it wasn't there any
more. "Oh Ho! Took it off?" says I. "No", says he and launches into a
long drawn out explanation of why he had to fix it, realign it, I
don't know what all. I noticed that he never reinstalled it :-)

The electric winch was on the boat when I bought it AND a two speed
manual winch for the stern anchor..... I took the stern anchor system
off and have the manual winch stored; in case I ever need it.

One advantage of buying a used boat is they usually come equipped with
all sort of add-ons.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

anchor retrieval while single handing esential information.
 

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 20:51:13 +0200, "Edgar"
wrote:


I would suggest that your proposed 1" rode would be somewhat of an
overkill.
Although the possibility of chafe is a factor the breaking strain of your
5/16 chain is about 3 tons, while the breaking strain of 1" dia nylon is
about 10 tons. Certainly you must consider safety factors and the question
of chafe on the nylon but I would suggest 14mm nylon instead , which would
allow you to stow a longer length of it.

It probably is overkill. On the other hand I got it cheap. A chap
ordered a spool of 1 inch and after it arrived decided that he really
didn't need all that rope so gave me 100 M. It fitted, carefully
packed, in one locker under the vee birth; I spliced a thimble in the
end and decided that it was an emergency mooring/anchor line.


Yes, can't argue with that!

anchor retrieval while single handing esential information.
 

On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 08:33:42 -0400, Keith Nuttle
wrote:

cavelamb wrote:
Capt. JG wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message

Have you tried a curved approach?

This is a very interesting thread but as with other similar threads each
posters omits an essential piece of information. That information is
the size of the boat that they are talking about. The posters to this
group have many different types of boats. Retrieving an anchor on a 17"
bass boat is different that picking it up on a 21' sailboat, If you
have a 40' sailboat it will be significantly different than either of
the above boats.

I have a 21' sailboat that is dock and trailer sailed so don't have much
to contribute to this thread but I would like to learn when I upgrade to
a bigger boat.

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
easolutions...
Yep. I'm mostly in the SF bay, but do take overnights in the bay and in
other nearby places. If you're careful about where you stop, you can
always get decent holding. My Bruce is in the same range. I think my old
boat shoe would hold well in bay mud. If I was going anywhere of
significance, I would upgrade the current Bruce. (I also have a backup
Danforth 13 in a lazz.)

What is your Danforth like? I imported my boat from USA and it came with
Danforth bower and kedge anchors.
The main anchor weighed 22 lb and had quite good area of flukes but I
immediately threw it out because the shank was cut from plate only 3/16"
thick.
This was supposed to be Ok for a 38' boat weighing 16000 lb!
.. To make matters worse the shank was shaped like a very long triangle,
thinning down to only 1/2" wide at the point where you shackle on the rode.
By my calculation that 1/2" x 3/16" section has a breaking strain of only
just over 1 ton which is totally insufficient. Moreover, what happens to
such a thin shank when the anchor is dug well in and the tide turns? . It
has got to bend.
I have the thing at home and am reluctant to sell it on because some
unsuspecting person might rely on it for serious work. Yet it claims to be a
genuine Danforth.
IIRC Danforths were invented during the war to haul landing craft back off
the beach but I feel pretty certain that they used to be more substantially
made than this one. The smaller kedge has never been used and therefore
still bears a label claiming to be a genuine Danforth. Something is wrong
somewhere.

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 10:44:37 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I might just try this (not single-handed the first time). Of course, it
might make a mess with the mud. I guess I'm being picky.

Rule makes a 3600 gpm bilge pump. I figure I could plumb one to a
couple of transom nozzles and have a couple of miles worth of
emergency propulsion for my 22 ft fish/ski. You also plumb it to a
hose at the bow, to wash off the anchor and rode. I used to use a 20
pound or so Danforth with a fifty foot rode to anchor in 20 ft, mud
bottom. I always buried it with the engine. Adequate for a 12 foot
duckboat. Also used it with a jet runabout. No cleats, you tied to to
the lifting eye, there were chocks. Same line also served as the dock
line. One foot of 3/8 line per year, for two boats. Cheap.

Casady

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Edgar" wrote in message
...

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
easolutions...
Yep. I'm mostly in the SF bay, but do take overnights in the bay and in
other nearby places. If you're careful about where you stop, you can
always get decent holding. My Bruce is in the same range. I think my old
boat shoe would hold well in bay mud. If I was going anywhere of
significance, I would upgrade the current Bruce. (I also have a backup
Danforth 13 in a lazz.)

What is your Danforth like? I imported my boat from USA and it came with
Danforth bower and kedge anchors.
The main anchor weighed 22 lb and had quite good area of flukes but I
immediately threw it out because the shank was cut from plate only 3/16"
thick.
This was supposed to be Ok for a 38' boat weighing 16000 lb!
. To make matters worse the shank was shaped like a very long triangle,
thinning down to only 1/2" wide at the point where you shackle on the
rode. By my calculation that 1/2" x 3/16" section has a breaking strain of
only just over 1 ton which is totally insufficient. Moreover, what
happens to such a thin shank when the anchor is dug well in and the tide
turns? . It has got to bend.
I have the thing at home and am reluctant to sell it on because some
unsuspecting person might rely on it for serious work. Yet it claims to be
a genuine Danforth.
IIRC Danforths were invented during the war to haul landing craft back off
the beach but I feel pretty certain that they used to be more
substantially made than this one. The smaller kedge has never been used
and therefore still bears a label claiming to be a genuine Danforth.
Something is wrong somewhere.



My main hook is a small Bruce. The Danforth is small also. I forget the
sizes.

I haven't actually used the Danforth on my boat for more than a stern hold
for an hour or so. I've used Danforths for years and they work fine in bay
mud.

I like the Bruce quite a bit, since if it does drag, it does't flip over.

I'm making the assumption that it's truly a real Danforth, but I'd have to
look again. I believe it's stamped, but not certain now that you mention it.

I've always thought they look kinda flimsy, but they seem to work. Of
course, my boat is 1/2 the weight. The biggest boat I've used Danforths on
as a primary was a Catalina 27, which is smaller than mine. My recollection
is that there are a couple of boats in the 36 foot range in our marina that
have them hanging off the front, so I suppose someone is using them. They
don't look particularly huge.


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Sat, 20 Jun 2009 10:31:29 -0500, Richard Casady
wrote:

Rule makes a 3600 gpm bilge pump. I figure I could plumb one to a
couple of transom nozzles and have a couple of miles worth of
emergency propulsion for my 22 ft fish/ski. You also plumb it to a
hose at the bow, to wash off the anchor and rode. I used to use a 20
pound or so Danforth with a fifty foot rode to anchor in 20 ft, mud
bottom. I always buried it with the engine. Adequate for a 12 foot
duckboat. Also used it with a jet runabout. No cleats, you tied to to
the lifting eye, there were chocks. Same line also served as the dock
line. One foot of 3/8 line per year, for two boats. Cheap.

Bilge pumps are designed for high volume and low pressure. A wash
down pump needs just the opposite. There are several 12 volt pumps
suitable for wash down but a lot of bigger boats are using 110 volt
well pumps because they are durable and a good value.

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Sat, 20 Jun 2009 10:47:26 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I've always thought they look kinda flimsy, but they seem to work. Of
course, my boat is 1/2 the weight. The biggest boat I've used Danforths on
as a primary was a Catalina 27

Danforths are very strong and have excellent holding power once they
are properly set. We've anchored our 49 ft, 70,000 lb trawler all
day in 25 kt winds, and 3 to 4 ft seas on a 35 lb Danforth. Bottom
conditions were ideal hard sand however and we used 25 ft of chain and
lots of scope.

The problem with Danforths is getting them to set in the first place
in anything other than ideal conditions. They will not set from a
moving boat, tending to plane through the water instead. They will
usually not set in a grassy or rocky bottom, and worst of all they
frequently do not reset if the boat gets turned around by a wind or
current change.

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

Wayne.B wrote:
On Sat, 20 Jun 2009 10:31:29 -0500, Richard Casady
wrote:

Rule makes a 3600 gpm bilge pump. I figure I could plumb one to a
couple of transom nozzles and have a couple of miles worth of
emergency propulsion for my 22 ft fish/ski. You also plumb it to a
hose at the bow, to wash off the anchor and rode. I used to use a 20
pound or so Danforth with a fifty foot rode to anchor in 20 ft, mud
bottom. I always buried it with the engine. Adequate for a 12 foot
duckboat. Also used it with a jet runabout. No cleats, you tied to to
the lifting eye, there were chocks. Same line also served as the dock
line. One foot of 3/8 line per year, for two boats. Cheap.

Bilge pumps are designed for high volume and low pressure. A wash
down pump needs just the opposite. There are several 12 volt pumps
suitable for wash down but a lot of bigger boats are using 110 volt
well pumps because they are durable and a good value.

Continuing the good advice here...

Mount the wash down pump pretty low - the closer to the water line
the more pressure you'll get from the output.

Sure, they say they can self prime 6 feet or more, but that reduces
pressure at the output.

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 20 Jun 2009 10:47:26 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I've always thought they look kinda flimsy, but they seem to work. Of
course, my boat is 1/2 the weight. The biggest boat I've used Danforths on
as a primary was a Catalina 27

Danforths are very strong and have excellent holding power once they
are properly set. We've anchored our 49 ft, 70,000 lb trawler all
day in 25 kt winds, and 3 to 4 ft seas on a 35 lb Danforth. Bottom
conditions were ideal hard sand however and we used 25 ft of chain and
lots of scope.

The problem with Danforths is getting them to set in the first place
in anything other than ideal conditions. They will not set from a
moving boat, tending to plane through the water instead. They will
usually not set in a grassy or rocky bottom, and worst of all they
frequently do not reset if the boat gets turned around by a wind or
current change.


When you initially anchored, were the conditions less than what they turned
into or did they start in the 25kts range? If the latter, how did you set
the anchor, give the problems you described?

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Sat, 20 Jun 2009 10:31:29 -0500, Richard Casady
wrote:

On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 10:44:37 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I might just try this (not single-handed the first time). Of course, it
might make a mess with the mud. I guess I'm being picky.

Rule makes a 3600 gpm bilge pump. I figure I could plumb one to a
couple of transom nozzles and have a couple of miles worth of
emergency propulsion for my 22 ft fish/ski. You also plumb it to a
hose at the bow, to wash off the anchor and rode. I used to use a 20
pound or so Danforth with a fifty foot rode to anchor in 20 ft, mud
bottom. I always buried it with the engine. Adequate for a 12 foot
duckboat. Also used it with a jet runabout. No cleats, you tied to to
the lifting eye, there were chocks. Same line also served as the dock
line. One foot of 3/8 line per year, for two boats. Cheap.

I typed gpm when I meant gph. One gallon per second. Fill a bathtub in
half a minute or less.

Casady

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Sat, 20 Jun 2009 12:50:30 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 20 Jun 2009 10:47:26 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I've always thought they look kinda flimsy, but they seem to work. Of
course, my boat is 1/2 the weight. The biggest boat I've used Danforths on
as a primary was a Catalina 27

Danforths are very strong and have excellent holding power once they
are properly set. We've anchored our 49 ft, 70,000 lb trawler all
day in 25 kt winds, and 3 to 4 ft seas on a 35 lb Danforth. Bottom
conditions were ideal hard sand however and we used 25 ft of chain and
lots of scope.

The problem with Danforths is getting them to set in the first place
in anything other than ideal conditions. They will not set from a
moving boat, tending to plane through the water instead. They will
usually not set in a grassy or rocky bottom, and worst of all they
frequently do not reset if the boat gets turned around by a wind or
current change.


When you initially anchored, were the conditions less than what they turned
into or did they start in the 25kts range? If the latter, how did you set
the anchor, give the problems you described?

Conditions started at 25 kts. We were doing race committee duty at
Key West Race Week in January and didn't have much choice.

We anchored by bringing the boat to a dead stop using the engines,
paying out rode until the anchor was down, and then slowly backing up
as we increased scope. That's more or less standard practice for any
controlled anchoring.

The problem with a moving boat arises when you are anchoring in an
emergency with failed engine(s), or in a strong current, or after the
anchor has tripped out for some reason.

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 20 Jun 2009 12:50:30 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
. ..
On Sat, 20 Jun 2009 10:47:26 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I've always thought they look kinda flimsy, but they seem to work. Of
course, my boat is 1/2 the weight. The biggest boat I've used Danforths
on
as a primary was a Catalina 27

Danforths are very strong and have excellent holding power once they
are properly set. We've anchored our 49 ft, 70,000 lb trawler all
day in 25 kt winds, and 3 to 4 ft seas on a 35 lb Danforth. Bottom
conditions were ideal hard sand however and we used 25 ft of chain and
lots of scope.

The problem with Danforths is getting them to set in the first place
in anything other than ideal conditions. They will not set from a
moving boat, tending to plane through the water instead. They will
usually not set in a grassy or rocky bottom, and worst of all they
frequently do not reset if the boat gets turned around by a wind or
current change.


When you initially anchored, were the conditions less than what they
turned
into or did they start in the 25kts range? If the latter, how did you set
the anchor, give the problems you described?

Conditions started at 25 kts. We were doing race committee duty at
Key West Race Week in January and didn't have much choice.

We anchored by bringing the boat to a dead stop using the engines,
paying out rode until the anchor was down, and then slowly backing up
as we increased scope. That's more or less standard practice for any
controlled anchoring.

The problem with a moving boat arises when you are anchoring in an
emergency with failed engine(s), or in a strong current, or after the
anchor has tripped out for some reason.


Ah... ok. That seems quite reasonable. For some reason I was thinking about
anchoring under sail, when one has less control about backward drift speed.


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

Edgar wrote:

The main anchor weighed 22 lb and had quite good area of flukes but I
immediately threw it out because the shank was cut from plate only 3/16"
thick.
This was supposed to be Ok for a 38' boat weighing 16000 lb!
. To make matters worse the shank was shaped like a very long triangle,
thinning down to only 1/2" wide at the point where you shackle on the rode.
By my calculation that 1/2" x 3/16" section has a breaking strain of only
just over 1 ton which is totally insufficient.

If the cross section of the anchor shank at the shackle hole
is 1.5 to 2X as big as the cross section of one rode chain link, it
probably won't break first. Bending is another matter.

Brian W

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Brian Whatcott" wrote in message
...
Edgar wrote:

The main anchor weighed 22 lb and had quite good area of flukes but I
immediately threw it out because the shank was cut from plate only 3/16"
thick.
This was supposed to be Ok for a 38' boat weighing 16000 lb!
. To make matters worse the shank was shaped like a very long triangle,
thinning down to only 1/2" wide at the point where you shackle on the
rode. By my calculation that 1/2" x 3/16" section has a breaking strain
of only just over 1 ton which is totally insufficient.

If the cross section of the anchor shank at the shackle hole
is 1.5 to 2X as big as the cross section of one rode chain link, it
probably won't break first. Bending is another matter.

Brian W

True enough. But this came to me shackled to a length of 3/8" chain!

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 15:00:52 +0200, "Edgar"
wrote:


"Brian Whatcott" wrote in message
...
Edgar wrote:

The main anchor weighed 22 lb and had quite good area of flukes but I
immediately threw it out because the shank was cut from plate only 3/16"
thick.
This was supposed to be Ok for a 38' boat weighing 16000 lb!
. To make matters worse the shank was shaped like a very long triangle,
thinning down to only 1/2" wide at the point where you shackle on the
rode. By my calculation that 1/2" x 3/16" section has a breaking strain
of only just over 1 ton which is totally insufficient.

If the cross section of the anchor shank at the shackle hole
is 1.5 to 2X as big as the cross section of one rode chain link, it
probably won't break first. Bending is another matter.

Brian W

True enough. But this came to me shackled to a length of 3/8" chain!


3/8ths chain is overkill for a 16,000 lb boat and 22 lb anchor. They
were probably using it just for the extra weight or maybe happened to
have some laying around.

I've seen a few bent Danforth anchors but have never heard of one
breaking.

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

In article , Wayne.B wrote:

3/8ths chain is overkill for a 16,000 lb boat and 22 lb anchor. They
were probably using it just for the extra weight or maybe happened to
have some laying around.

Here is where I show my ignorance. What part of the chain is measured at
3/8"? Is it the thickness/diameter of the metal making the link? Or is
it something else?

Justin.

--
Justin C, by the sea.

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Tue, 23 Jun 2009 00:29:41 +0100, Justin C
wrote:

In article , Wayne.B wrote:

3/8ths chain is overkill for a 16,000 lb boat and 22 lb anchor. They
were probably using it just for the extra weight or maybe happened to
have some laying around.

Here is where I show my ignorance. What part of the chain is measured at
3/8"? Is it the thickness/diameter of the metal making the link? Or is
it something else?

Justin.

The thickness of the metal used to make the link.
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Jun 2009 00:29:41 +0100, Justin C
wrote:

In article , Wayne.B wrote:

3/8ths chain is overkill for a 16,000 lb boat and 22 lb anchor. They
were probably using it just for the extra weight or maybe happened to
have some laying around.

Here is where I show my ignorance. What part of the chain is measured at
3/8"? Is it the thickness/diameter of the metal making the link? Or is
it something else?

Justin.

The thickness of the metal used to make the link.
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)



Wrong! It's the diameter of the of the metal rod that is bent in a circle or
oval and then welded to form the link. The "thickness" of the metal means
little or nothing.

Wilbur Hubbard

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Justin C" wrote in message
...
In article , Wayne.B wrote:

3/8ths chain is overkill for a 16,000 lb boat and 22 lb anchor. They
were probably using it just for the extra weight or maybe happened to
have some laying around.

Here is where I show my ignorance. What part of the chain is measured at
3/8"? Is it the thickness/diameter of the metal making the link? Or is
it something else?

Thickness of metal

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

In article , Edgar wrote:

"Justin C" wrote in message
...
In article , Wayne.B wrote:

3/8ths chain is overkill for a 16,000 lb boat and 22 lb anchor. They
were probably using it just for the extra weight or maybe happened to
have some laying around.

Here is where I show my ignorance. What part of the chain is measured at
3/8"? Is it the thickness/diameter of the metal making the link? Or is
it something else?

Thickness of metal

Thank you, Edgar and Bruce. Now I know what to measure.

Justin.

--
Justin C, by the sea.

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Justin C" wrote:

Thank you, Edgar and Bruce. Now I know what to measure.

Unless the chain is made in the USA, chances are pretty good metric
size wire was used to form the links.

Can be a particular PITA if you have a gypsy in metric and try to use
it on USA chain.

Lew

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

In article , Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Justin C" wrote:

Thank you, Edgar and Bruce. Now I know what to measure.

Unless the chain is made in the USA, chances are pretty good metric
size wire was used to form the links.

Can be a particular PITA if you have a gypsy in metric and try to use
it on USA chain.

I'm very confident that the chain is European. I can see the logic in
what you say, and it will be something I should consider for my eventual
(inevitable?) visit to US.

Justin.

--
Justin C, by the sea.

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Justin C" wrote:

I'm very confident that the chain is European. I can see the logic
in
what you say, and it will be something I should consider for my
eventual
(inevitable?) visit to US.

When it comes time to update, take a piece of chain, say 500mm, and
match it to the gypsy before purchase.

No point in making life miserable of either.


Lew

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...

"Justin C" wrote:

I'm very confident that the chain is European. I can see the logic in
what you say, and it will be something I should consider for my eventual
(inevitable?) visit to US.

When it comes time to update, take a piece of chain, say 500mm, and match
it to the gypsy before purchase.

No point in making life miserable of either.


Lew

While chain is machine made and therefore should be consistent in quality
throughout its length, if you plan to use it on a winch you should, as Lew
has already stated, ensure that it fits your gypsy but should also include
the word 'calibrated' in your order otherwise you will have no come-back if
the chain will not run right through its length without jamming at some
point.

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 20:55:07 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 17:41:59 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I'd like an electric at some point. If I finally do that, I'd probably get
a
bigger Bruce.

And that's a major advantage of a windlass, you can get an anchor big
enough to do the job in all conditions without being concerned about
retrieving it. Most serious cruising boats that we see are on very
heavy anchors and an all chain rode.


I would still be concerned about retrieving it... perhaps more so if the
windlass quits.

Many windlasses have a manual over ride for just such an emergency.
Very slow, but will get the anchor up. You can also use a halyard and
winch to pull up about 40 feet of chain at a time. Again, not
convenient, but it will get you home.

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 15:37:19 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 02:30:02 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Capt. JG wrote:
"cavelamb" wrote in message
m...
Capt. JG wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:11:19 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I'd be interested to hear if someone has an interesting solution or
suggestion.
My last couple of boats have had anchor windlasses with remote
controls at the helm. Works like a charm.

Too rich for my blood...

Mine too, but it is a valid question.

My only suggestion is to haul in line from the cockpit.

Pull the rode in taught to the bow and tie it off.
Then haul away as you move toward the anchor.

No need to actually "go forward" for that.


Richard


I don't really follow you... if it's tied off at the bow? Perhaps you mean
tie it off at the cockpit cleat? I've thought of that, but my concern is
that it could wrap the prop, since the boat would be moving forward. You'd
have to be very careful to keep the line taught.



Yes, just so the line to the bow doesn't loop under and foul something.
And yes, keep the line taught.

Have you tried a curved approach?

I knew a bloke who, when he wanted to retrieve the anchor, just ran
the anchor rode over the bow roller and back to one of the sheet
winches. Drive the boat ahead a bit and wind in on the winch.

He said it worked a treat.


I've done that many times. I have a rope rode with 25 feet of chain at
the end.

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Sat, 20 Jun 2009 14:48:47 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

One advantage of buying a used boat is they usually come equipped with
all sort of add-ons.

Yes, and with any luck some of them actually work. :-)

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Tue, 23 Jun 2009 23:26:33 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

Can be a particular PITA if you have a gypsy in metric and try to use
it on USA chain.

I guess I lucked out. 'Valkyrie' came with a Simpson Laurance 2-speed
manual windless with what I can only think to call a "universal
gypsy". It will take just about any size chain. My main rode is 3/8"
chain with a screw link down to 5/16" chain. I think those are the
sizes. Anyway, it goes from one size to the other with no problem at
all. The link "openings" in the gypsy are tapered on all four sides,
so any size within the limits does fine. The larger the chain, the
higher it rides, but it all just easily falls into place. Very handy
to be able to mix and match so to speak.

To get back on topic. Single handed anchoring is pretty much as Capt.
JG said in the original post. If under power, the power is cut and the
autopilot keeps headed into the wind. I walk to the bow and wait for
the forward motion to stop, then release the anchor. If under sail, I
use the jib only, turn into the wind, activate the autopilot and roll
up the jib. "Valkyrie" displaces 24,000 lbs so she does coast quite a
bit.

Retrieving is with the manual windless. The two speed makes it easy.
Usually I'll hoist the main just before the final anchor pull out with
the mainsheet about full out. If a tight anchorage I'll forgo the sail
and have the engine idling. When the anchor breaks loose I go back,
put in gear, apply just enough power to have steerage and set the
autopilot. I can then go forward and finish retrieving the anchor.

If winds and seas are high, I can still use the windless by timing the
winching to when the bow comes down. I have cranked up the engine
under these conditions with the rudder centered and retrieved the
chain by hand. The problem with this is running back to throttle back
and go to neutral. It's a matter of timing and if off it can get a bit
interesting! The former is a lot better, if slower. But then if one is
in a hurry one has no busingess on a sailing vessel. That's the real
key to any aspect of single handing. Plan ahead and take your time. If
you do that, about anything is possible.

Rick

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Rick Morel" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Jun 2009 23:26:33 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

Can be a particular PITA if you have a gypsy in metric and try to use
it on USA chain.

I guess I lucked out. 'Valkyrie' came with a Simpson Laurance 2-speed
manual windless with what I can only think to call a "universal
gypsy". It will take just about any size chain. My main rode is 3/8"
chain with a screw link down to 5/16" chain. I think those are the
sizes. Anyway, it goes from one size to the other with no problem at
all. The link "openings" in the gypsy are tapered on all four sides,
so any size within the limits does fine. The larger the chain, the
higher it rides, but it all just easily falls into place. Very handy
to be able to mix and match so to speak.

To get back on topic. Single handed anchoring is pretty much as Capt.
JG said in the original post. If under power, the power is cut and the
autopilot keeps headed into the wind. I walk to the bow and wait for
the forward motion to stop, then release the anchor. If under sail, I
use the jib only, turn into the wind, activate the autopilot and roll
up the jib. "Valkyrie" displaces 24,000 lbs so she does coast quite a
bit.

Retrieving is with the manual windless. The two speed makes it easy.
Usually I'll hoist the main just before the final anchor pull out with
the mainsheet about full out. If a tight anchorage I'll forgo the sail
and have the engine idling. When the anchor breaks loose I go back,
put in gear, apply just enough power to have steerage and set the
autopilot. I can then go forward and finish retrieving the anchor.

If winds and seas are high, I can still use the windless by timing the
winching to when the bow comes down. I have cranked up the engine
under these conditions with the rudder centered and retrieved the
chain by hand. The problem with this is running back to throttle back
and go to neutral. It's a matter of timing and if off it can get a bit
interesting! The former is a lot better, if slower. But then if one is
in a hurry one has no busingess on a sailing vessel. That's the real
key to any aspect of single handing. Plan ahead and take your time. If
you do that, about anything is possible.

Rick



"Otto" sure helps. I have a remote, which is even nicer. Set me back a
couple of boat bucks, but it was worth it.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com