anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Sat, 20 Jun 2009 10:31:29 -0500, Richard Casady
wrote:

On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 10:44:37 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I might just try this (not single-handed the first time). Of course, it
might make a mess with the mud. I guess I'm being picky.

Rule makes a 3600 gpm bilge pump. I figure I could plumb one to a
couple of transom nozzles and have a couple of miles worth of
emergency propulsion for my 22 ft fish/ski. You also plumb it to a
hose at the bow, to wash off the anchor and rode. I used to use a 20
pound or so Danforth with a fifty foot rode to anchor in 20 ft, mud
bottom. I always buried it with the engine. Adequate for a 12 foot
duckboat. Also used it with a jet runabout. No cleats, you tied to to
the lifting eye, there were chocks. Same line also served as the dock
line. One foot of 3/8 line per year, for two boats. Cheap.

I typed gpm when I meant gph. One gallon per second. Fill a bathtub in
half a minute or less.

Casady

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Sat, 20 Jun 2009 12:50:30 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 20 Jun 2009 10:47:26 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I've always thought they look kinda flimsy, but they seem to work. Of
course, my boat is 1/2 the weight. The biggest boat I've used Danforths on
as a primary was a Catalina 27

Danforths are very strong and have excellent holding power once they
are properly set. We've anchored our 49 ft, 70,000 lb trawler all
day in 25 kt winds, and 3 to 4 ft seas on a 35 lb Danforth. Bottom
conditions were ideal hard sand however and we used 25 ft of chain and
lots of scope.

The problem with Danforths is getting them to set in the first place
in anything other than ideal conditions. They will not set from a
moving boat, tending to plane through the water instead. They will
usually not set in a grassy or rocky bottom, and worst of all they
frequently do not reset if the boat gets turned around by a wind or
current change.


When you initially anchored, were the conditions less than what they turned
into or did they start in the 25kts range? If the latter, how did you set
the anchor, give the problems you described?

Conditions started at 25 kts. We were doing race committee duty at
Key West Race Week in January and didn't have much choice.

We anchored by bringing the boat to a dead stop using the engines,
paying out rode until the anchor was down, and then slowly backing up
as we increased scope. That's more or less standard practice for any
controlled anchoring.

The problem with a moving boat arises when you are anchoring in an
emergency with failed engine(s), or in a strong current, or after the
anchor has tripped out for some reason.

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 20 Jun 2009 12:50:30 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
. ..
On Sat, 20 Jun 2009 10:47:26 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

I've always thought they look kinda flimsy, but they seem to work. Of
course, my boat is 1/2 the weight. The biggest boat I've used Danforths
on
as a primary was a Catalina 27

Danforths are very strong and have excellent holding power once they
are properly set. We've anchored our 49 ft, 70,000 lb trawler all
day in 25 kt winds, and 3 to 4 ft seas on a 35 lb Danforth. Bottom
conditions were ideal hard sand however and we used 25 ft of chain and
lots of scope.

The problem with Danforths is getting them to set in the first place
in anything other than ideal conditions. They will not set from a
moving boat, tending to plane through the water instead. They will
usually not set in a grassy or rocky bottom, and worst of all they
frequently do not reset if the boat gets turned around by a wind or
current change.


When you initially anchored, were the conditions less than what they
turned
into or did they start in the 25kts range? If the latter, how did you set
the anchor, give the problems you described?

Conditions started at 25 kts. We were doing race committee duty at
Key West Race Week in January and didn't have much choice.

We anchored by bringing the boat to a dead stop using the engines,
paying out rode until the anchor was down, and then slowly backing up
as we increased scope. That's more or less standard practice for any
controlled anchoring.

The problem with a moving boat arises when you are anchoring in an
emergency with failed engine(s), or in a strong current, or after the
anchor has tripped out for some reason.


Ah... ok. That seems quite reasonable. For some reason I was thinking about
anchoring under sail, when one has less control about backward drift speed.


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

Edgar wrote:

The main anchor weighed 22 lb and had quite good area of flukes but I
immediately threw it out because the shank was cut from plate only 3/16"
thick.
This was supposed to be Ok for a 38' boat weighing 16000 lb!
. To make matters worse the shank was shaped like a very long triangle,
thinning down to only 1/2" wide at the point where you shackle on the rode.
By my calculation that 1/2" x 3/16" section has a breaking strain of only
just over 1 ton which is totally insufficient.

If the cross section of the anchor shank at the shackle hole
is 1.5 to 2X as big as the cross section of one rode chain link, it
probably won't break first. Bending is another matter.

Brian W

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Brian Whatcott" wrote in message
...
Edgar wrote:

The main anchor weighed 22 lb and had quite good area of flukes but I
immediately threw it out because the shank was cut from plate only 3/16"
thick.
This was supposed to be Ok for a 38' boat weighing 16000 lb!
. To make matters worse the shank was shaped like a very long triangle,
thinning down to only 1/2" wide at the point where you shackle on the
rode. By my calculation that 1/2" x 3/16" section has a breaking strain
of only just over 1 ton which is totally insufficient.

If the cross section of the anchor shank at the shackle hole
is 1.5 to 2X as big as the cross section of one rode chain link, it
probably won't break first. Bending is another matter.

Brian W

True enough. But this came to me shackled to a length of 3/8" chain!

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 15:00:52 +0200, "Edgar"
wrote:


"Brian Whatcott" wrote in message
...
Edgar wrote:

The main anchor weighed 22 lb and had quite good area of flukes but I
immediately threw it out because the shank was cut from plate only 3/16"
thick.
This was supposed to be Ok for a 38' boat weighing 16000 lb!
. To make matters worse the shank was shaped like a very long triangle,
thinning down to only 1/2" wide at the point where you shackle on the
rode. By my calculation that 1/2" x 3/16" section has a breaking strain
of only just over 1 ton which is totally insufficient.

If the cross section of the anchor shank at the shackle hole
is 1.5 to 2X as big as the cross section of one rode chain link, it
probably won't break first. Bending is another matter.

Brian W

True enough. But this came to me shackled to a length of 3/8" chain!


3/8ths chain is overkill for a 16,000 lb boat and 22 lb anchor. They
were probably using it just for the extra weight or maybe happened to
have some laying around.

I've seen a few bent Danforth anchors but have never heard of one
breaking.

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

In article , Wayne.B wrote:

3/8ths chain is overkill for a 16,000 lb boat and 22 lb anchor. They
were probably using it just for the extra weight or maybe happened to
have some laying around.

Here is where I show my ignorance. What part of the chain is measured at
3/8"? Is it the thickness/diameter of the metal making the link? Or is
it something else?

Justin.

--
Justin C, by the sea.

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

On Tue, 23 Jun 2009 00:29:41 +0100, Justin C
wrote:

In article , Wayne.B wrote:

3/8ths chain is overkill for a 16,000 lb boat and 22 lb anchor. They
were probably using it just for the extra weight or maybe happened to
have some laying around.

Here is where I show my ignorance. What part of the chain is measured at
3/8"? Is it the thickness/diameter of the metal making the link? Or is
it something else?

Justin.

The thickness of the metal used to make the link.
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Jun 2009 00:29:41 +0100, Justin C
wrote:

In article , Wayne.B wrote:

3/8ths chain is overkill for a 16,000 lb boat and 22 lb anchor. They
were probably using it just for the extra weight or maybe happened to
have some laying around.

Here is where I show my ignorance. What part of the chain is measured at
3/8"? Is it the thickness/diameter of the metal making the link? Or is
it something else?

Justin.

The thickness of the metal used to make the link.
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)



Wrong! It's the diameter of the of the metal rod that is bent in a circle or
oval and then welded to form the link. The "thickness" of the metal means
little or nothing.

Wilbur Hubbard

anchor retrieval while single handing
 

"Justin C" wrote in message
...
In article , Wayne.B wrote:

3/8ths chain is overkill for a 16,000 lb boat and 22 lb anchor. They
were probably using it just for the extra weight or maybe happened to
have some laying around.

Here is where I show my ignorance. What part of the chain is measured at
3/8"? Is it the thickness/diameter of the metal making the link? Or is
it something else?

Thickness of metal