"katy" wrote in message
om...
Capt. JG wrote:
Looks like I'm going to get her (Sabre 30, MkII, 1982) hauled in a few
days.

Short list of TBDs:

paint
prop zincs
full engine service, including valve adjustment, oil, filter, zincs,
impeller, etc.
add 2nd Racor filter with quick switch
relap two seacocks (bronze Spartens)
replace the steaming light
pull extra wires from the masthead to the base, add a Windex light

Of course, there are lots of other things to do.


Yeah..we havwe to do that sometime in March...have to go down to Oriental
to do it since we draft too deep for the boatyards here and have been
stuck in the mud there once before..and we weren't too pleased with them
anyway...we'vew been having the divers scrape the bottom seasonaly and
it's pretty clean and they replaced one zinc last time but we need the
stuffing box repacked and stuff like that (and no, Doug...I do not want to
do that in the water...not that I have no faith in you guys but...)


I've done it several times on a couple of different boats. It's really
pretty easy and unless you take forever, it's not going to sink the boat.
Some water comes in, but it's not like a fire hose.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 09:59:36 -0800, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 19 Feb 2009 23:27:11 -0800, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

"Bruce in Bangkok" wrote in message
m...
On Thu, 19 Feb 2009 21:16:10 -0800, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

Looks like I'm going to get her (Sabre 30, MkII, 1982) hauled in a few
days.

Short list of TBDs:

paint
prop zincs
full engine service, including valve adjustment, oil, filter, zincs,
impeller, etc.
add 2nd Racor filter with quick switch
relap two seacocks (bronze Spartens)
replace the steaming light
pull extra wires from the masthead to the base, add a Windex light

Of course, there are lots of other things to do.


Cutlass bearing?
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)



It was done last time... I'll check it for sure, but I doubt it's an
issue.

I've been getting by with only hauling every few years, rather then
once a year and had the same outlook toward cutlass bearings but the
past couple of haul outs the bearing hasn't been "that bad" so I left
it alone and a year or so later began to get rattling and vibration at
certain RPMs. Dive down and shake the prop and sure enough the bearing
is loose. Now I just automatically change it every time I have the
boat out of the water. (Even got my own puller :-)
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)



Well, it's been 3 years and the diver who checked it for me said it felt
fine. I'll check it myself, but I'm pretty sure it's ok. There's no
vibration I can feel on the wheel.

It's one of those things that are better replaced before they need it.



While true, I'm not going to replace something that is perfectly fine. I've
seen boats that had some play in the bearing, that went another three years
on the advice of the yard manager in agreement with a surveyor, the former
of whom who certainly had incentive to change it.


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Capt. JG wrote:
"katy" wrote in message
om...
Capt. JG wrote:
Looks like I'm going to get her (Sabre 30, MkII, 1982) hauled in a few
days.

Short list of TBDs:

paint
prop zincs
full engine service, including valve adjustment, oil, filter, zincs,
impeller, etc.
add 2nd Racor filter with quick switch
relap two seacocks (bronze Spartens)
replace the steaming light
pull extra wires from the masthead to the base, add a Windex light

Of course, there are lots of other things to do.

Yeah..we havwe to do that sometime in March...have to go down to Oriental
to do it since we draft too deep for the boatyards here and have been
stuck in the mud there once before..and we weren't too pleased with them
anyway...we'vew been having the divers scrape the bottom seasonaly and
it's pretty clean and they replaced one zinc last time but we need the
stuffing box repacked and stuff like that (and no, Doug...I do not want to
do that in the water...not that I have no faith in you guys but...)


I've done it several times on a couple of different boats. It's really
pretty easy and unless you take forever, it's not going to sink the boat.
Some water comes in, but it's not like a fire hose.

uhuh..optimal word...water...come...in....slow....Mutt...Jeff... .

"katy" wrote in message
om...
Yeah..we havwe to do that sometime in March...have to go down to
Oriental to do it since we draft too deep for the boatyards here and have
been stuck in the mud there once before..and we weren't too pleased with
them anyway...we'vew been having the divers scrape the bottom seasonaly
and it's pretty clean and they replaced one zinc last time but we need the
stuffing box repacked and stuff like that (and no, Doug...I do not want to
do that in the water...not that I have no faith in you guys but...)

go on Katy, try it afloat. It will not sink your boat.
First check that you have the right sized square section packing. Measure
the shaft diameter and the diameter of the stern tube's housing for it. Both
these things can be done before you loosen anything off.
Subtract the shaft diameter from the other one and divide by two. This gives
you the size of the packing you need. Obtain a length of the correct
section packing
Then wrap the packing around the shaft and with something really sharp like
a Stanley knife cut through both parts of the packing so you have a turn of
packing that just fits the shaft when the two ends butt together. Make
about four of these and you are set to go.
Slide the packing gland compressor piece out along the shaft and with
something sharp pointed pick out and remove the first turn of packing. There
are probably three turns in all so you can also remove the second. Very
little water should be coming in as yet and unless you feel brave enough to
take the last one out as well you can just replace the two you have taken
out-staggering the joints- and these two new packings will seal the gland
again. The last one can be left in situ until your next haulout.
The secret of success for this job is to have the right size of packing
already cut to exact size before you dismantle anything. You cannot do a
decent job of cutting packing to length when water is coming in all around
the job, but the actual quantity of water coming in with no packing at all
in place is not going to sink your boat if you are ready with the right size
pieces of packing to put back in.
You are able to do this because you have a traditional stuffing box. Mine is
a 'dripless' system with a carbon seal running on a polished face and to
replace it I would not only have to haul out but also would need to pull the
shaft right out.

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
easolutions...
Well, it's been 3 years and the diver who checked it for me said it
felt
fine. I'll check it myself, but I'm pretty sure it's ok. There's no
vibration I can feel on the wheel.

It's one of those things that are better replaced before they need it.



While true, I'm not going to replace something that is perfectly fine.
I've seen boats that had some play in the bearing, that went another three
years on the advice of the yard manager in agreement with a surveyor, the
former of whom who certainly had incentive to change it.

If you are not using the boat in sandy water these bearings should give very
little trouble but if your boat is cleaned by a diver you should make sure
he knows that it is vital that all marine growth that might impede the free
flow of water through the slots on the cutlass bearing should be carefully
removed and that in doing so he does not push any of the crud into those
slots.

Edgar wrote:
"katy" wrote in message
om...
Yeah..we havwe to do that sometime in March...have to go down to
Oriental to do it since we draft too deep for the boatyards here and have
been stuck in the mud there once before..and we weren't too pleased with
them anyway...we'vew been having the divers scrape the bottom seasonaly
and it's pretty clean and they replaced one zinc last time but we need the
stuffing box repacked and stuff like that (and no, Doug...I do not want to
do that in the water...not that I have no faith in you guys but...)

go on Katy, try it afloat. It will not sink your boat.
First check that you have the right sized square section packing. Measure
the shaft diameter and the diameter of the stern tube's housing for it. Both
these things can be done before you loosen anything off.
Subtract the shaft diameter from the other one and divide by two. This gives
you the size of the packing you need. Obtain a length of the correct
section packing
Then wrap the packing around the shaft and with something really sharp like
a Stanley knife cut through both parts of the packing so you have a turn of
packing that just fits the shaft when the two ends butt together. Make
about four of these and you are set to go.
Slide the packing gland compressor piece out along the shaft and with
something sharp pointed pick out and remove the first turn of packing. There
are probably three turns in all so you can also remove the second. Very
little water should be coming in as yet and unless you feel brave enough to
take the last one out as well you can just replace the two you have taken
out-staggering the joints- and these two new packings will seal the gland
again. The last one can be left in situ until your next haulout.
The secret of success for this job is to have the right size of packing
already cut to exact size before you dismantle anything. You cannot do a
decent job of cutting packing to length when water is coming in all around
the job, but the actual quantity of water coming in with no packing at all
in place is not going to sink your boat if you are ready with the right size
pieces of packing to put back in.
You are able to do this because you have a traditional stuffing box. Mine is
a 'dripless' system with a carbon seal running on a polished face and to
replace it I would not only have to haul out but also would need to pull the
shaft right out.


nononono..you guys don't understand...they know HOW to do it...it's the
mess they create when they do it and I ahve to clean it up...you have to
access through the aft cabin and tear out al the bedding etc...in a 31
ft boat there is just bnot tahat much room when you're living on it...

"Edgar" wrote in message
...

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
easolutions...
Well, it's been 3 years and the diver who checked it for me said it
felt
fine. I'll check it myself, but I'm pretty sure it's ok. There's no
vibration I can feel on the wheel.

It's one of those things that are better replaced before they need it.



While true, I'm not going to replace something that is perfectly fine.
I've seen boats that had some play in the bearing, that went another
three years on the advice of the yard manager in agreement with a
surveyor, the former of whom who certainly had incentive to change it.

If you are not using the boat in sandy water these bearings should give
very little trouble but if your boat is cleaned by a diver you should make
sure he knows that it is vital that all marine growth that might impede
the free flow of water through the slots on the cutlass bearing should be
carefully removed and that in doing so he does not push any of the crud
into those slots.

True enough... The SF bay is mostly mud (and rocks). I don't have the bottom
cleaned between haulouts. It just isn't necessary. I'll know when it gets
hauled the extent of the growth, but the diver thought it looked pretty
good. He didn't charge me for looking, since he was right next door.

I'm getting excited to see her in a sling. I'm going to vid the haul if I
can remember to bring the camera.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

"katy" wrote in message
om...
Capt. JG wrote:
"katy" wrote in message
om...
Capt. JG wrote:
Looks like I'm going to get her (Sabre 30, MkII, 1982) hauled in a few
days.

Short list of TBDs:

paint
prop zincs
full engine service, including valve adjustment, oil, filter, zincs,
impeller, etc.
add 2nd Racor filter with quick switch
relap two seacocks (bronze Spartens)
replace the steaming light
pull extra wires from the masthead to the base, add a Windex light

Of course, there are lots of other things to do.

Yeah..we havwe to do that sometime in March...have to go down to
Oriental to do it since we draft too deep for the boatyards here and
have been stuck in the mud there once before..and we weren't too pleased
with them anyway...we'vew been having the divers scrape the bottom
seasonaly and it's pretty clean and they replaced one zinc last time but
we need the stuffing box repacked and stuff like that (and no, Doug...I
do not want to do that in the water...not that I have no faith in you
guys but...)


I've done it several times on a couple of different boats. It's really
pretty easy and unless you take forever, it's not going to sink the boat.
Some water comes in, but it's not like a fire hose.

uhuh..optimal word...water...come...in....slow....Mutt...Jeff... .


If you haven't tried it yourself, you should get someone who has to show
you. It's an interesting experience, certainly was for me the first time I
saw it and definitely the first time I did it myself.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

"Edgar" wrote in message
...

"katy" wrote in message
om...
Yeah..we havwe to do that sometime in March...have to go down to
Oriental to do it since we draft too deep for the boatyards here and have
been stuck in the mud there once before..and we weren't too pleased with
them anyway...we'vew been having the divers scrape the bottom seasonaly
and it's pretty clean and they replaced one zinc last time but we need
the stuffing box repacked and stuff like that (and no, Doug...I do not
want to do that in the water...not that I have no faith in you guys
but...)

go on Katy, try it afloat. It will not sink your boat.
First check that you have the right sized square section packing. Measure
the shaft diameter and the diameter of the stern tube's housing for it.
Both these things can be done before you loosen anything off.
Subtract the shaft diameter from the other one and divide by two. This
gives you the size of the packing you need. Obtain a length of the
correct section packing
Then wrap the packing around the shaft and with something really sharp
like a Stanley knife cut through both parts of the packing so you have a
turn of packing that just fits the shaft when the two ends butt together.
Make about four of these and you are set to go.
Slide the packing gland compressor piece out along the shaft and with
something sharp pointed pick out and remove the first turn of packing.
There are probably three turns in all so you can also remove the second.
Very little water should be coming in as yet and unless you feel brave
enough to take the last one out as well you can just replace the two you
have taken out-staggering the joints- and these two new packings will seal
the gland again. The last one can be left in situ until your next haulout.
The secret of success for this job is to have the right size of packing
already cut to exact size before you dismantle anything. You cannot do a
decent job of cutting packing to length when water is coming in all around
the job, but the actual quantity of water coming in with no packing at
all in place is not going to sink your boat if you are ready with the
right size pieces of packing to put back in.
You are able to do this because you have a traditional stuffing box. Mine
is a 'dripless' system with a carbon seal running on a polished face and
to replace it I would not only have to haul out but also would need to
pull the shaft right out.



And then burp it when it goes wet again... I've heard, but never seen it
done.


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

"katy" wrote in message
om...
Edgar wrote:
"katy" wrote in message
om...
Yeah..we havwe to do that sometime in March...have to go down to
Oriental to do it since we draft too deep for the boatyards here and
have been stuck in the mud there once before..and we weren't too pleased
with them anyway...we'vew been having the divers scrape the bottom
seasonaly and it's pretty clean and they replaced one zinc last time but
we need the stuffing box repacked and stuff like that (and no, Doug...I
do not want to do that in the water...not that I have no faith in you
guys but...)

go on Katy, try it afloat. It will not sink your boat.
First check that you have the right sized square section packing. Measure
the shaft diameter and the diameter of the stern tube's housing for it.
Both these things can be done before you loosen anything off.
Subtract the shaft diameter from the other one and divide by two. This
gives you the size of the packing you need. Obtain a length of the
correct section packing
Then wrap the packing around the shaft and with something really sharp
like a Stanley knife cut through both parts of the packing so you have a
turn of packing that just fits the shaft when the two ends butt together.
Make about four of these and you are set to go.
Slide the packing gland compressor piece out along the shaft and with
something sharp pointed pick out and remove the first turn of packing.
There are probably three turns in all so you can also remove the second.
Very little water should be coming in as yet and unless you feel brave
enough to take the last one out as well you can just replace the two you
have taken out-staggering the joints- and these two new packings will
seal the gland again. The last one can be left in situ until your next
haulout.
The secret of success for this job is to have the right size of packing
already cut to exact size before you dismantle anything. You cannot do a
decent job of cutting packing to length when water is coming in all
around the job, but the actual quantity of water coming in with no
packing at all in place is not going to sink your boat if you are ready
with the right size pieces of packing to put back in.
You are able to do this because you have a traditional stuffing box. Mine
is a 'dripless' system with a carbon seal running on a polished face and
to replace it I would not only have to haul out but also would need to
pull the shaft right out.
nononono..you guys don't understand...they know HOW to do it...it's the
mess they create when they do it and I ahve to clean it up...you have to
access through the aft cabin and tear out al the bedding etc...in a 31 ft
boat there is just bnot tahat much room when you're living on it...


It's not much of a mess... the bilge pump will take care of it. I did it on
my 30 ft, no problem. The bilge pump ran twice for a couple of minutes.


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com