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#21
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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rigging wire
On Feb 10, 7:53 am, Bruce wrote:
On Mon, 9 Feb 2009 22:45:55 -0800 (PST), Two meter troll wrote: On Feb 9, 10:35 pm, Bruce wrote: On Mon, 09 Feb 2009 23:46:11 GMT, (Richard Casady) wrote: How come stainless cable is more than six times as costly as galvanized, yet nobody uses the galvanized. Stainless the same size has about 80% of the breaking strength. Galvanized is what they guy power poles with. Casady Basically using galvanized wire rope just takes a LOT more maintenance, and a LOT more time to build. If you are doing your own work then perhaps it is more economical, but if you are paying others the it is doubtful The first problem comes when you attempt to locate proper heavy duty thimbles for the eyes. Damned hard to find. Next comes splicing the eyes in the cables. Again, if you can do it yourself and have the tools then go for it but if you are paying rigger's rates then get your wallet ready. Now you have the cables cut, spliced around proper heavy duty thimbles. Next step is to worm, parcel and serve all splices and usually the lower cables up 10 - 15 feet above the deck. Once that is done you need to mix up some slushing and paint the cables, working it well into the wrappings. Now! At last, you can rig the boat. But remember that annually you will need to inspect, replace worn wrappings and re-slush all the cables and slushing is a mixture of tar, oil, Japan dryer and various other arcane substances. (think roofing tar) so don't even begin to think about slushing down the rigging while in a marina slip as you will sprinkle not only your deck but your neighbor's decks with sticky, black, tarry gunk. Now, having said all that you might be interested that properly maintained galvanized rigging will out last stainless. Cheers, Bruce Bruce where the hell do you get that idea? spend a couple pennies more and get the better galv. you just described what i do to my standing rigging and mine is all manella and hemp. yes with proper care galv will out last SS but the level of care is not serving the bloody thing. you soak the cable warm for a bit till the grave penetrates the core and then gravy the outside about twice a year. If you want galvanize to last 15 - 20 - 30 years, or longer, then you do it the old fashioned way I described. Otherwise you will be changing the stuff every ten years or so. Hell, I've seen boats rigged with telephone pole cables and cable clips. It works but you get to replace the rigging pretty often. If your standing rigging is all hemp and manila how are you making the terminations? Spliced eyes or served? Cheers, Bruce depends on where it is. on most they go to the upper dead eye and eye spliced the wormed puddinged out parceled and served then a leather is sewn in and well oiled. the lower dead eyes are strapped and the lanyard is wormed parceled and served as well. each bolt that has a line to it has a thimble and a spliced eye treated the same . this is how my cargo boom mast and stops are set up |
#22
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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rigging wire
On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 14:03:10 -0800 (PST), Two meter troll
wrote: On Feb 10, 7:53 am, Bruce wrote: On Mon, 9 Feb 2009 22:45:55 -0800 (PST), Two meter troll wrote: On Feb 9, 10:35 pm, Bruce wrote: On Mon, 09 Feb 2009 23:46:11 GMT, (Richard Casady) wrote: How come stainless cable is more than six times as costly as galvanized, yet nobody uses the galvanized. Stainless the same size has about 80% of the breaking strength. Galvanized is what they guy power poles with. Casady Basically using galvanized wire rope just takes a LOT more maintenance, and a LOT more time to build. If you are doing your own work then perhaps it is more economical, but if you are paying others the it is doubtful The first problem comes when you attempt to locate proper heavy duty thimbles for the eyes. Damned hard to find. Next comes splicing the eyes in the cables. Again, if you can do it yourself and have the tools then go for it but if you are paying rigger's rates then get your wallet ready. Now you have the cables cut, spliced around proper heavy duty thimbles. Next step is to worm, parcel and serve all splices and usually the lower cables up 10 - 15 feet above the deck. Once that is done you need to mix up some slushing and paint the cables, working it well into the wrappings. Now! At last, you can rig the boat. But remember that annually you will need to inspect, replace worn wrappings and re-slush all the cables and slushing is a mixture of tar, oil, Japan dryer and various other arcane substances. (think roofing tar) so don't even begin to think about slushing down the rigging while in a marina slip as you will sprinkle not only your deck but your neighbor's decks with sticky, black, tarry gunk. Now, having said all that you might be interested that properly maintained galvanized rigging will out last stainless. Cheers, Bruce Bruce where the hell do you get that idea? spend a couple pennies more and get the better galv. you just described what i do to my standing rigging and mine is all manella and hemp. yes with proper care galv will out last SS but the level of care is not serving the bloody thing. you soak the cable warm for a bit till the grave penetrates the core and then gravy the outside about twice a year. If you want galvanize to last 15 - 20 - 30 years, or longer, then you do it the old fashioned way I described. Otherwise you will be changing the stuff every ten years or so. Hell, I've seen boats rigged with telephone pole cables and cable clips. It works but you get to replace the rigging pretty often. If your standing rigging is all hemp and manila how are you making the terminations? Spliced eyes or served? Cheers, Bruce depends on where it is. on most they go to the upper dead eye and eye spliced the wormed puddinged out parceled and served then a leather is sewn in and well oiled. the lower dead eyes are strapped and the lanyard is wormed parceled and served as well. each bolt that has a line to it has a thimble and a spliced eye treated the same . this is how my cargo boom mast and stops are set up Which is partially what I was talking about. How much per shroud/stay for a rigger to do all this splicing - serving - parceling -etc plus the annual inspection and re-slushing? As apposed to cutting a length of stainless and either swedging a terminal on the ends, or screwing on a sta-lock fitting. Inspection is a yearly look at the terminals with a magnifying glass. Just as the old cotton sails, the initial motivation is to decrease maintenance. Cheers, Bruce |
#23
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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rigging wire
Edgar wrote:
Properly cared for galvanized will out last steel, take an old boat restoration class or two, ignore Wilbur/Neal, he knows nothing about boats. Yes, it is Ok in any application where you can grease it. But you can't grease your rigging unless you want your sails, ropes and everything else to get covered in it. You would feel a lot better if you used a Mil Spec style corrosion inhibitor. These set to a waxy finish within 24 hours. Even a BoeShield T-6 (not sure about that number) aerosol cannister will do a serviceable job. It's this style of inhibitor that coats the galvanized aileron control cables in the 737 you flew in recently..... Brian W |
#24
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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rigging wire
On Feb 10, 4:39 pm, Bruce wrote:
On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 14:03:10 -0800 (PST), Two meter troll wrote: On Feb 10, 7:53 am, Bruce wrote: On Mon, 9 Feb 2009 22:45:55 -0800 (PST), Two meter troll wrote: On Feb 9, 10:35 pm, Bruce wrote: On Mon, 09 Feb 2009 23:46:11 GMT, (Richard Casady) wrote: How come stainless cable is more than six times as costly as galvanized, yet nobody uses the galvanized. Stainless the same size has about 80% of the breaking strength. Galvanized is what they guy power poles with. Casady Basically using galvanized wire rope just takes a LOT more maintenance, and a LOT more time to build. If you are doing your own work then perhaps it is more economical, but if you are paying others the it is doubtful The first problem comes when you attempt to locate proper heavy duty thimbles for the eyes. Damned hard to find. Next comes splicing the eyes in the cables. Again, if you can do it yourself and have the tools then go for it but if you are paying rigger's rates then get your wallet ready. Now you have the cables cut, spliced around proper heavy duty thimbles. Next step is to worm, parcel and serve all splices and usually the lower cables up 10 - 15 feet above the deck. Once that is done you need to mix up some slushing and paint the cables, working it well into the wrappings. Now! At last, you can rig the boat. But remember that annually you will need to inspect, replace worn wrappings and re-slush all the cables and slushing is a mixture of tar, oil, Japan dryer and various other arcane substances. (think roofing tar) so don't even begin to think about slushing down the rigging while in a marina slip as you will sprinkle not only your deck but your neighbor's decks with sticky, black, tarry gunk. Now, having said all that you might be interested that properly maintained galvanized rigging will out last stainless. Cheers, Bruce Bruce where the hell do you get that idea? spend a couple pennies more and get the better galv. you just described what i do to my standing rigging and mine is all manella and hemp. yes with proper care galv will out last SS but the level of care is not serving the bloody thing. you soak the cable warm for a bit till the grave penetrates the core and then gravy the outside about twice a year. If you want galvanize to last 15 - 20 - 30 years, or longer, then you do it the old fashioned way I described. Otherwise you will be changing the stuff every ten years or so. Hell, I've seen boats rigged with telephone pole cables and cable clips. It works but you get to replace the rigging pretty often. If your standing rigging is all hemp and manila how are you making the terminations? Spliced eyes or served? Cheers, Bruce depends on where it is. on most they go to the upper dead eye and eye spliced the wormed puddinged out parceled and served then a leather is sewn in and well oiled. the lower dead eyes are strapped and the lanyard is wormed parceled and served as well. each bolt that has a line to it has a thimble and a spliced eye treated the same . this is how my cargo boom mast and stops are set up Which is partially what I was talking about. How much per shroud/stay for a rigger to do all this splicing - serving - parceling -etc plus the annual inspection and re-slushing? As apposed to cutting a length of stainless and either swedging a terminal on the ends, or screwing on a sta-lock fitting. Inspection is a yearly look at the terminals with a magnifying glass. Just as the old cotton sails, the initial motivation is to decrease maintenance. Cheers, Bruce once the rigging is up it hardly takes much time. I understand the Maintainer time issue, I dont tend to agree with it but i do understand. However i have yet to see anyone running Galve that spends much time on the rigging. certs not more than a day a year. IMO folks should take a day a year and run through the rigging in any case. Ahh well I'll keep mine no matter its quiet and easy to work. I am a lazy old troll. |
#25
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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rigging wire
Edgar wrote:
I have no experience of the systems worked by a sort of bolt cutter but would not be certain that the average person could produce enough force to compress a copper ferrule. I am about to fit new steering wires to my boat if it ever stops snowing. The old ones are terminated with Nico-press fittings but I have made Talurit splices on the new ones. The Nicopress sleeves used to terminate galvanized aircraft control cables are made of copper, and the aircraft supply companies suggest zinc coated copper sleeves for stainless wire cable. Aluminum sleeves are often stocked in hardware stores - they do well with galvanized cable in the smaller diameters to 3/16 inch certainly. A sleeve set by a reworked bolt cutter needs a little care, because as you can easily imagine, it is quite possible to squeeze the diameter over the two cables far too skinny with this tool. That's what a gage is for. Grinding a bolt cutter's blades into two semicircles of the appropriate size works well. A sleeve (or ferrule) is squeezed three times, but NEVER at different angles, or at right angles to and over an existing squeeze. That about guarantees a slip, in a joint which will otherwise hold up over 90% of the rated breaking strain of the cable, often over 100%. Brian W |
#26
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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rigging wire
Richard Casady wrote:
How come stainless cable is more than six times as costly as galvanized, yet nobody uses the galvanized. Stainless the same size has about 80% of the breaking strength. Galvanized is what they guy power poles with. Casady OK, while we are at it lets clarify what we are talking about when we say "Galvanized Wire." Most (all?) of it is 7-strand. It comes in a variety of dimensions and grades. It is important to understand that not all "galvanized" wire is the same. Just look at 1/4" for example: Common = 1,900 lbs Siemens Martin = 3, 150 lbs HS = 4,750 lbs EHS = 6,650 lbs It also comes with three levels of galvanizing: Class A: Minimum amount of zinc coating. Class B: Twice the amount of zinc coating as “A.” Class C: Three times the amount of zinc coating as “A.” Then there are various fittings. The "bullets" form Preformed Line Products would seem to me to make good connectors. I copied this from http://www.anixter.it/AXECOM/AXEDocLib.nsf/(UnID)/8DBC60E3F238E8CF80256F2500690530/$file/WCTHContentsInstallation.pdf Size Grade Wt/1,000 ft Breaking Strength 3?16 Common 73 1,150 3?16 Utility 2.2M 73 2,400 1?4 Common 121 1,900 1?4 Siemens Martin 121 3,150 1?4 High Strength 121 4,750 1?4 Ex. High Strength 121 6,650 5?16 Common 205 3,200 5?16 Siemens Martin 205 5,350 5?16 Utilities Grade 6M 225 6,000 5?16 High Strength 205 8,000 5?16 Ex. High Strength 205 11,200 3?8 Common 273 4,250 3?8 Siemens Martin 273 6,950 3?8 Utility 10M 273 11,500 3?8 High Strength 273 10,800 3?8 Ex. High Strength 273 15,400 7?16 Siemens Martin 399 9,350 7?16 High Strength 399 14,500 7?16 Utility 16M 399 18,000 1?2 Siemens Martin 517 12,100 1?2 High Strength 517 18,800 1?2 Utility 25M 517 25,000 |
#27
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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rigging wire
Then there is 30% EHS Copper-Clad Steel, that might but the best bet of
all??? 6,282 lbs hpeer wrote: Richard Casady wrote: How come stainless cable is more than six times as costly as galvanized, yet nobody uses the galvanized. Stainless the same size has about 80% of the breaking strength. Galvanized is what they guy power poles with. Casady OK, while we are at it lets clarify what we are talking about when we say "Galvanized Wire." Most (all?) of it is 7-strand. It comes in a variety of dimensions and grades. It is important to understand that not all "galvanized" wire is the same. Just look at 1/4" for example: Common = 1,900 lbs Siemens Martin = 3, 150 lbs HS = 4,750 lbs EHS = 6,650 lbs It also comes with three levels of galvanizing: Class A: Minimum amount of zinc coating. Class B: Twice the amount of zinc coating as “A.” Class C: Three times the amount of zinc coating as “A.” Then there are various fittings. The "bullets" form Preformed Line Products would seem to me to make good connectors. I copied this from http://www.anixter.it/AXECOM/AXEDocLib.nsf/(UnID)/8DBC60E3F238E8CF80256F2500690530/$file/WCTHContentsInstallation.pdf Size Grade Wt/1,000 ft Breaking Strength 3?16 Common 73 1,150 3?16 Utility 2.2M 73 2,400 1?4 Common 121 1,900 1?4 Siemens Martin 121 3,150 1?4 High Strength 121 4,750 1?4 Ex. High Strength 121 6,650 5?16 Common 205 3,200 5?16 Siemens Martin 205 5,350 5?16 Utilities Grade 6M 225 6,000 5?16 High Strength 205 8,000 5?16 Ex. High Strength 205 11,200 3?8 Common 273 4,250 3?8 Siemens Martin 273 6,950 3?8 Utility 10M 273 11,500 3?8 High Strength 273 10,800 3?8 Ex. High Strength 273 15,400 7?16 Siemens Martin 399 9,350 7?16 High Strength 399 14,500 7?16 Utility 16M 399 18,000 1?2 Siemens Martin 517 12,100 1?2 High Strength 517 18,800 1?2 Utility 25M 517 25,000 |
#28
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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rigging wire
On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 21:55:47 -0500, hpeer wrote:
OK, while we are at it lets clarify what we are talking about when we say "Galvanized Wire." Most (all?) of it is 7-strand. It comes in a variety of dimensions and grades. It is important to understand that not all "galvanized" wire is the same. I checked out a cable company website. They have wire rope, galv, and stainless. No seven strand,they had7x7 and 7x19, and maybe 19x7. Roebling the guy who built the Brooklyn bridge, invented cable with three sizes of wire, to have less wasted air space, and be rounder. They sell it today. Casady |
#29
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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rigging wire
"Richard Casady" wrote in message ... On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 21:55:47 -0500, hpeer wrote: OK, while we are at it lets clarify what we are talking about when we say "Galvanized Wire." Most (all?) of it is 7-strand. It comes in a variety of dimensions and grades. It is important to understand that not all "galvanized" wire is the same. I checked out a cable company website. They have wire rope, galv, and stainless. No seven strand,they had7x7 and 7x19, and maybe 19x7. Roebling the guy who built the Brooklyn bridge, invented cable with three sizes of wire, to have less wasted air space, and be rounder. They sell it today. The first figure (7) is the number of strands. 7 strand wire is six strands wound round a seventh wire core. The second number is the number of individual wires in each strand. In 7 x 7 each individual strand is itself six wires wound round a seventh as core. Some galvanised wires are 6 x (number of wires). This construction is 6 strands wound round a hemp core. The higher the number of wires in a strand the more flexible the complete rope is So 7 x 7 would be a stiffish wire suited to standing rigging. Not so good for going round pulleys as the individual wires will be thicker and subject to fatigue.. Having said that however this wire construction is recommended by the makers of my steering gear which is why I am now having to replace the wires because the first strand or two have fatigued and are protruding where the wire goes round the pulleys at the bottom of the pedestal. However I do not know how many years thee wires have been in service. If using this wire to go round a pulley make sure the pulley is as large diameter as possible. 7 x 19 would be more flexible for running gear and because the individual strands are thinner this wire would corrode more rapidly. Never heard of 19 x 7. If it exists it must be for some special application, not for boats. Standing rigging these days is normally 1 x 19 SS wire. This is a single strand containing 19 wires and cannot be used where any flexibility is required |
#30
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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rigging wire
Edgar wrote:
"Richard Casady" wrote in message ... On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 21:55:47 -0500, hpeer wrote: OK, while we are at it lets clarify what we are talking about when we say "Galvanized Wire." Most (all?) of it is 7-strand. It comes in a variety of dimensions and grades. It is important to understand that not all "galvanized" wire is the same. I checked out a cable company website. They have wire rope, galv, and stainless. No seven strand,they had7x7 and 7x19, and maybe 19x7. Roebling the guy who built the Brooklyn bridge, invented cable with three sizes of wire, to have less wasted air space, and be rounder. They sell it today. The first figure (7) is the number of strands. 7 strand wire is six strands wound round a seventh wire core. The second number is the number of individual wires in each strand. In 7 x 7 each individual strand is itself six wires wound round a seventh as core. Some galvanised wires are 6 x (number of wires). This construction is 6 strands wound round a hemp core. The higher the number of wires in a strand the more flexible the complete rope is So 7 x 7 would be a stiffish wire suited to standing rigging. Not so good for going round pulleys as the individual wires will be thicker and subject to fatigue.. Having said that however this wire construction is recommended by the makers of my steering gear which is why I am now having to replace the wires because the first strand or two have fatigued and are protruding where the wire goes round the pulleys at the bottom of the pedestal. However I do not know how many years thee wires have been in service. If using this wire to go round a pulley make sure the pulley is as large diameter as possible. 7 x 19 would be more flexible for running gear and because the individual strands are thinner this wire would corrode more rapidly. Never heard of 19 x 7. If it exists it must be for some special application, not for boats. Standing rigging these days is normally 1 x 19 SS wire. This is a single strand containing 19 wires and cannot be used where any flexibility is required The 7 strand (6 over 1 as you note) is what is commonly used as messenger or guy wire for "telephone" cable. It's what you will get if you cut down a telephone pole. |
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