I'm going to be hauling soon, and even though I have realitively easy access
to the raw water pump/impeller, I'm thinking of replacing the cover with a
Speedseal. It seems quite simple to do it, and then I'd be able to deal with
a problem without fumbling for a tool. The impeller is due to get changed
anyway, so while I'm there... for reference,
http://www.speedseal.com/speedseal.html.

Has someone used this product? What do you think?

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

On Dec 22, 2:02*pm, "Capt. JG" wrote:
I'm going to be hauling soon, and even though I have realitively easy access
to the raw water pump/impeller, I'm thinking of replacing the cover with a
Speedseal. It seems quite simple to do it, and then I'd be able to deal with
a problem without fumbling for a tool. The impeller is due to get changed
anyway, so while I'm there... for reference,http://www.speedseal.com/speedseal.html.

Has someone used this product? What do you think?

--
"j" ganz

looks good to me its not like most of the seals nowdays need to be
cranked very tight.
I might put wing nuts on the heads so i could twist a few more inch
pounds. or just for a secure grip in the cold. the nurling on those
cap nuts seems a might shallow to me.

On Dec 22, 4:52*pm, Gogarty wrote:
In article
,
says...On Dec 22, 2:02*pm, "Capt. JG" wrote:
I'm going to be hauling soon, and even though I have realitively easy
access
to the raw water pump/impeller, I'm thinking of replacing the cover with a
Speedseal. It seems quite simple to do it, and then I'd be able to deal
with
a problem without fumbling for a tool. The impeller is due to get changed
anyway, so while I'm there... for

reference,http://www.speedseal.com/speedseal.html.



Has someone used this product? What do you think?

--
"j" ganz

looks good to me its not like most of the seals nowdays need to be
cranked very tight.

Knurling. Sorry. Can't help it.



I might put wing nuts on the heads so i could twist a few more inch
pounds. or just for a secure grip in the cold. the nurling on those
cap nuts seems a might shallow to me.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I don't mind.
my spelling has always been bad.

In article lutions,
lid says...
I'm going to be hauling soon, and even though I have realitively easy access
to the raw water pump/impeller, I'm thinking of replacing the cover with a
Speedseal. It seems quite simple to do it, and then I'd be able to deal with
a problem without fumbling for a tool. The impeller is due to get changed
anyway, so while I'm there... for reference,
http://www.speedseal.com/speedseal.html.

Has someone used this product? What do you think?


Yes, I've had one for some years now and it lives up to its name. It has
the main advantage that it is easier and quicker to remove, not needing
tools and, because it has holes and slots, rather than all holes, is
less likely to get dropped when being refitted. (Two screws remain in
the block so it can be relocated without seeing where the screw holes
are.) It also uses an O-ring rather than a gasket for sealing. This
lasts much longer and is less likely to be damaged.

What I'd like is a Speedseal with a window, so I could check the
impeller is rotating :-)
--
John W
To mail me replace the obvious with co.uk twice

On Tue, 23 Dec 2008 13:36:57 -0000, John Weston
wrote:

In article lutions,
says...
I'm going to be hauling soon, and even though I have realitively easy access
to the raw water pump/impeller, I'm thinking of replacing the cover with a
Speedseal. It seems quite simple to do it, and then I'd be able to deal with
a problem without fumbling for a tool. The impeller is due to get changed
anyway, so while I'm there... for reference,
http://www.speedseal.com/speedseal.html.

Has someone used this product? What do you think?


Yes, I've had one for some years now and it lives up to its name. It has
the main advantage that it is easier and quicker to remove, not needing
tools and, because it has holes and slots, rather than all holes, is
less likely to get dropped when being refitted. (Two screws remain in
the block so it can be relocated without seeing where the screw holes
are.) It also uses an O-ring rather than a gasket for sealing. This
lasts much longer and is less likely to be damaged.

What I'd like is a Speedseal with a window, so I could check the
impeller is rotating :-)

Anybody know how raw water pumps performed before impellers
became synthetic?
Not having a boat, but having plenty of experience with pumps, it
strikes me as odd that engine cooling should be such a dicey
proposition.
I can understand the rubber impellers on OB's, which can't be
practically equipped with the filters some have posted about here.
The biggest argument for them I've seen is the vanes giving way to
twigs and other detritus. Don't the canister filters I've seen here
keep this from getting to the pump?
Corrosion resistance is another argument, but there are metal alloys
that do well at that.
Then there's price. Which I suspect is the real seller.
I did look a bit on the net for metal impeller raw water pumps, but
what I found were electric motor powered, maybe intended for ships.
It seems that with decent filtering a metal impeller pump would be
more reliable in protecting an expensive engine.
You mentioned knowing if the impeller is turning.
Can't a pressure gage set be attached to these pumps, perhaps with a
low-pressure alarm or engine shutdown?
It just seems very odd to me that so much is left to chance.
Weather I can understand. A blown engine because of an inoperative
impeller is more difficult.
On the surface it looks like sailors have no mechanical aptitude, and
are getting suckered by "accepted practice" regarding engine systems.
But I don't believe that, so I'd appreciate some instruction from the
sailors here as to why this "diciness" about engine cooling exists.
I started to say these "plastic" impellers suck, but unfortunately it
appears that might be praising them.
Thanks!

--Vic

On Tue, 23 Dec 2008 11:54:08 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote:

On the surface it looks like sailors have no mechanical aptitude, and
are getting suckered by "accepted practice" regarding engine systems.
But I don't believe that, so I'd appreciate some instruction from the
sailors here as to why this "diciness" about engine cooling exists.
I started to say these "plastic" impellers suck, but unfortunately it
appears that might be praising them.

Impellers need to be replaced on a regular schedule. 300 to 500
operating hours is about right in my experience.

In their favor, impeller pumps are compact, efficient and self
priming.

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
easolutions...
I'm going to be hauling soon, and even though I have realitively easy
access to the raw water pump/impeller, I'm thinking of replacing the cover
with a Speedseal. It seems quite simple to do it, and then I'd be able to
deal with a problem without fumbling for a tool. The impeller is due to
get changed anyway, so while I'm there... for reference,
http://www.speedseal.com/speedseal.html.

Has someone used this product? What do you think?

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Seems a nice improvment to me.

BUT. It only solves a minor part of the problem. My experience is that the
two big problems are getting the old impeller out and the new one in,
preferably with the wings in the right direction. The Speedseal page
mentions an impeller removal tool but does not show a picture. Does anybody
know what it looks like, how it works and is it useful also in really tight
spots?

Caitzu

"C. S." wrote in message
...
BUT. It only solves a minor part of the problem. My experience is that
the
two big problems are getting the old impeller out and the new one in,
preferably with the wings in the right direction. The Speedseal page
mentions an impeller removal tool but does not show a picture. Does
anybody know what it looks like, how it works and is it useful also in
really tight spots?

Caitzu

Screwdriver has always worked for me. Used carefully you do not damage the
impeller

On Tue, 23 Dec 2008 17:14:17 +0100, "Edgar"
wrote:


"C. S." wrote in message
...
BUT. It only solves a minor part of the problem. My experience is that
the
two big problems are getting the old impeller out and the new one in,
preferably with the wings in the right direction. The Speedseal page
mentions an impeller removal tool but does not show a picture. Does
anybody know what it looks like, how it works and is it useful also in
really tight spots?

Caitzu

Screwdriver has always worked for me. Used carefully you do not damage the
impeller


Damaging the impeller with a screwdriver is not the issue, damaging
the machined mating surface under the cover plate is the real problem
when you try to pry it out.

I've had much better luck with two pairs of needle nose pliers,
grabbing vanes on opposite sides and giving it a straight pull out. A
little shot of PB Blaster on the shaft hub can help if it is really
stuck.

There is a trick to getting the new impeller back in. Wrap a nylon
wire tie around the new impeller, compressing the rubber vanes around
the hub as you tighten it up. That should allow you to get it
started, and then you snip the wire tie with cutters and push the
impeller in all the way. It does not matter if the vanes are pointing
the wrong way - they will flip over on the first turn. A light shot
of silicone spray will ease the process.

It is much better for the engine to replace impellers on a regular
schedule of preventive maintenance rather than waiting for them to
wear out. In addition to preventing a potential overheat, impellers
shed vanes when they wear out, and the loose vanes get stuck elsewhere
in the cooling system.

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Dec 2008 17:14:17 +0100, "Edgar"
wrote:


"C. S." wrote in message
...
BUT. It only solves a minor part of the problem. My experience is that
the
two big problems are getting the old impeller out and the new one in,
preferably with the wings in the right direction. The Speedseal page
mentions an impeller removal tool but does not show a picture. Does
anybody know what it looks like, how it works and is it useful also in
really tight spots?

Caitzu

Screwdriver has always worked for me. Used carefully you do not damage the
impeller


Damaging the impeller with a screwdriver is not the issue, damaging
the machined mating surface under the cover plate is the real problem
when you try to pry it out.

I've had much better luck with two pairs of needle nose pliers,
grabbing vanes on opposite sides and giving it a straight pull out. A
little shot of PB Blaster on the shaft hub can help if it is really
stuck.

Thats OK but I was thinking of a tight spot where there is not "unlimited"
space in front of the impeller housing.
Any solutions for that case?

There is a trick to getting the new impeller back in. Wrap a nylon
wire tie around the new impeller, compressing the rubber vanes around
the hub as you tighten it up. That should allow you to get it
started, and then you snip the wire tie with cutters and push the
impeller in all the way. It does not matter if the vanes are pointing
the wrong way - they will flip over on the first turn. A light shot
of silicone spray will ease the process.

That suons like a usful trick, will try it next spring.

Caitzu