Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising,uk.rec.sailing
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I have Volvo MD7A, 13 hp two cylinder unit with salt water cooling.
Runs perfectly with one exception, it occasionally overheats and I can't figure out what the heck is going on. I bought the boat used and the previous owner had fitter her out himself. Every time she overheats, I find something to "fix" after which she is fine for a spell then she will overheat again. Clearly I'm not getting to the root cause. Generally she will seem to be running along just fine and all of a sudden the pressure gauge just goes up, up, up. It seems to be a bi-state kind of thing, it either works perfectly well or not at all. Its almost as if there is a ball valve or something somewhere that is sticking. It's obviously not a bad gage. The plumbing goes like this: Through hull fitting Salt water strainer Tap to the transmission/engine Tap to secondary pick up from bilge Tap to sinks Here is some of the history and what I had done, in each case I have also checked/changed the impeller. They usually look just perfect. 1: Recently fitted salt water strainer seemed to be blocked with debris from its construction. It is home built out of some interlocking pieces of PVC pipe, the inner piece has a zillion small holes drilled in it. I dumped this stuff out and she was fine. 2: Found a small leak in the copper pipe from the transmission to the impeller. I thought that maybe it was sucking in air and the impeller was getting air bound. Repaired the leak. 3: Moved and lowered the salt water strainer. This was mounted pretty high on a bulkhead with real long hoses. I moved it to the engine compartment and lowered it. I thought that maybe there was just too much suction head to get the water going. 4: Threw thermostat overboard. Any clues? Many thanks, Howard |
#2
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising,uk.rec.sailing
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"hpeer" wrote in message
... I have Volvo MD7A, 13 hp two cylinder unit with salt water cooling. Runs perfectly with one exception, it occasionally overheats and I can't figure out what the heck is going on. I bought the boat used and the previous owner had fitter her out himself. Every time she overheats, I find something to "fix" after which she is fine for a spell then she will overheat again. Clearly I'm not getting to the root cause. Generally she will seem to be running along just fine and all of a sudden the pressure gauge just goes up, up, up. It seems to be a bi-state kind of thing, it either works perfectly well or not at all. Its almost as if there is a ball valve or something somewhere that is sticking. It's obviously not a bad gage. The plumbing goes like this: Through hull fitting Salt water strainer Tap to the transmission/engine Tap to secondary pick up from bilge Tap to sinks Here is some of the history and what I had done, in each case I have also checked/changed the impeller. They usually look just perfect. 1: Recently fitted salt water strainer seemed to be blocked with debris from its construction. It is home built out of some interlocking pieces of PVC pipe, the inner piece has a zillion small holes drilled in it. I dumped this stuff out and she was fine. 2: Found a small leak in the copper pipe from the transmission to the impeller. I thought that maybe it was sucking in air and the impeller was getting air bound. Repaired the leak. 3: Moved and lowered the salt water strainer. This was mounted pretty high on a bulkhead with real long hoses. I moved it to the engine compartment and lowered it. I thought that maybe there was just too much suction head to get the water going. 4: Threw thermostat overboard. Any clues? Many thanks, Howard Do you have water flow out the back when it overheats? Is it normal flow? Also, I'm thinking about a failing raw water pump... not the impeller. It's driven by a belt... is the belt snug? -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
#3
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising,uk.rec.sailing
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Capt. JG wrote:
"hpeer" wrote in message ... I have Volvo MD7A, 13 hp two cylinder unit with salt water cooling. Runs perfectly with one exception, it occasionally overheats and I can't figure out what the heck is going on. I bought the boat used and the previous owner had fitter her out himself. Every time she overheats, I find something to "fix" after which she is fine for a spell then she will overheat again. Clearly I'm not getting to the root cause. Generally she will seem to be running along just fine and all of a sudden the pressure gauge just goes up, up, up. It seems to be a bi-state kind of thing, it either works perfectly well or not at all. Its almost as if there is a ball valve or something somewhere that is sticking. It's obviously not a bad gage. The plumbing goes like this: Through hull fitting Salt water strainer Tap to the transmission/engine Tap to secondary pick up from bilge Tap to sinks Here is some of the history and what I had done, in each case I have also checked/changed the impeller. They usually look just perfect. 1: Recently fitted salt water strainer seemed to be blocked with debris from its construction. It is home built out of some interlocking pieces of PVC pipe, the inner piece has a zillion small holes drilled in it. I dumped this stuff out and she was fine. 2: Found a small leak in the copper pipe from the transmission to the impeller. I thought that maybe it was sucking in air and the impeller was getting air bound. Repaired the leak. 3: Moved and lowered the salt water strainer. This was mounted pretty high on a bulkhead with real long hoses. I moved it to the engine compartment and lowered it. I thought that maybe there was just too much suction head to get the water going. 4: Threw thermostat overboard. Any clues? Many thanks, Howard Do you have water flow out the back when it overheats? Is it normal flow? Also, I'm thinking about a failing raw water pump... not the impeller. It's driven by a belt... is the belt snug? No, the engine is not sucking up water. The bilge intake is used when winterizing so that I can put anti-freeze into the engine. The last time this issue/problem occurred was during layup and I was not able to get the engine to suck up anti-freeze. This particular water pump is on a little shaft on the back of the engine. I suppose the pump could be failing to turn intermittently, I had not considered that possibility. Seems kinda far fetched, but then again this whole problem feels weird. |
#4
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising,uk.rec.sailing
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"hpeer" wrote in message
... Capt. JG wrote: "hpeer" wrote in message ... I have Volvo MD7A, 13 hp two cylinder unit with salt water cooling. Runs perfectly with one exception, it occasionally overheats and I can't figure out what the heck is going on. I bought the boat used and the previous owner had fitter her out himself. Every time she overheats, I find something to "fix" after which she is fine for a spell then she will overheat again. Clearly I'm not getting to the root cause. Generally she will seem to be running along just fine and all of a sudden the pressure gauge just goes up, up, up. It seems to be a bi-state kind of thing, it either works perfectly well or not at all. Its almost as if there is a ball valve or something somewhere that is sticking. It's obviously not a bad gage. The plumbing goes like this: Through hull fitting Salt water strainer Tap to the transmission/engine Tap to secondary pick up from bilge Tap to sinks Here is some of the history and what I had done, in each case I have also checked/changed the impeller. They usually look just perfect. 1: Recently fitted salt water strainer seemed to be blocked with debris from its construction. It is home built out of some interlocking pieces of PVC pipe, the inner piece has a zillion small holes drilled in it. I dumped this stuff out and she was fine. 2: Found a small leak in the copper pipe from the transmission to the impeller. I thought that maybe it was sucking in air and the impeller was getting air bound. Repaired the leak. 3: Moved and lowered the salt water strainer. This was mounted pretty high on a bulkhead with real long hoses. I moved it to the engine compartment and lowered it. I thought that maybe there was just too much suction head to get the water going. 4: Threw thermostat overboard. Any clues? Many thanks, Howard Do you have water flow out the back when it overheats? Is it normal flow? Also, I'm thinking about a failing raw water pump... not the impeller. It's driven by a belt... is the belt snug? No, the engine is not sucking up water. The bilge intake is used when winterizing so that I can put anti-freeze into the engine. The last time this issue/problem occurred was during layup and I was not able to get the engine to suck up anti-freeze. This particular water pump is on a little shaft on the back of the engine. I suppose the pump could be failing to turn intermittently, I had not considered that possibility. Seems kinda far fetched, but then again this whole problem feels weird. Seems like something that intermittent wouldn't be related to restricted flow, since if it's restricted, it's not going to get better. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
#5
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising,uk.rec.sailing
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "hpeer" wrote in message ... This particular water pump is on a little shaft on the back of the engine. I suppose the pump could be failing to turn intermittently, I had not considered that possibility. Seems kinda far fetched, but then again this whole problem feels weird. I have had this trouble on a petrol engine in my 22' motorboat and the cause lay in the rubber impeller in the pump. It is easy to examine the impeller and, seeing no wear on the ends of the lobes, to conclude that it is Ok for further service. However after some time the rubber goes soft and this means that the lobes cannot spring back quick enough after passing the cam to allow water to come in through the inlet. You may get away with a soft impeller at low speeds but when you increase revs you will lose suction.. Also, with a soft impeller the pump becomes more sensitive to back pressure, which in extreme cases can allow back leakage past the ends of the lobes. Your system seems likely to create quite a bit of back pressure especially if the taps you have in the system are not gate valves or ball valves which allow full bore passage through them. You need this sorted out quickly because you are salt water cooled and every time you get temperatures over 140 degrees deposits will come out of solution and ultimately cause severe problems. |
#6
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising,uk.rec.sailing
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
In message , Edgar
writes "hpeer" wrote in message m... This particular water pump is on a little shaft on the back of the engine. I suppose the pump could be failing to turn intermittently, I had not considered that possibility. Seems kinda far fetched, but then again this whole problem feels weird. I have had this trouble on a petrol engine in my 22' motorboat and the cause lay in the rubber impeller in the pump. It is easy to examine the impeller and, seeing no wear on the ends of the lobes, to conclude that it is Ok for further service. However after some time the rubber goes soft and this means that the lobes cannot spring back quick enough after passing the cam to allow water to come in through the inlet. You may get away with a soft impeller at low speeds but when you increase revs you will lose suction.. Also, with a soft impeller the pump becomes more sensitive to back pressure, which in extreme cases can allow back leakage past the ends of the lobes. Your system seems likely to create quite a bit of back pressure especially if the taps you have in the system are not gate valves or ball valves which allow full bore passage through them. You need this sorted out quickly because you are salt water cooled and every time you get temperatures over 140 degrees deposits will come out of solution and ultimately cause severe problems. Another problem I have had with impellers is - they look OK, but the central bronze part becomes un-bonded from the rubber, and starts to spin without turning the rubber. This might be intermittent by having different friction at different speeds. -- Spike |
#7
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising,uk.rec.sailing
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
hpeer wrote in news:494e6e63$0$5528
: The plumbing goes like this: Through hull fitting Salt water strainer Tap to the transmission/engine Tap to secondary pick up from bilge Tap to sinks Are you telling us there's ONE thru hull fitting feeding water to the engine while the sink and bilge pump use it to pump water overboard?? That's so incredibly stupid I'm amazed the engine survived! The engine pulls on its tit. The suction pulls on the sink and bilge pump line and SUCKS AIR so the engine doesn't get cooling water. Please tell me it's not installed this stupidly! Please?! |
#8
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising,uk.rec.sailing
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I guess there are intake taps, but also seems starnge as for me - taps may let some air to be sucked-in.
JaC ----- Are you telling us there's ONE thru hull fitting feeding water to the engine while the sink and bilge pump use it to pump water overboard? |
#9
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising,uk.rec.sailing
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Larry wrote:
hpeer wrote in news:494e6e63$0$5528 : The plumbing goes like this: Through hull fitting Salt water strainer Tap to the transmission/engine Tap to secondary pick up from bilge Tap to sinks Are you telling us there's ONE thru hull fitting feeding water to the engine while the sink and bilge pump use it to pump water overboard?? That's so incredibly stupid I'm amazed the engine survived! The engine pulls on its tit. The suction pulls on the sink and bilge pump line and SUCKS AIR so the engine doesn't get cooling water. Please tell me it's not installed this stupidly! Please?! The "bilge" line is there only for winterizing the engine and is isolate by a valve. The galley line is also isolated by its own valve. I had considered that I might be getting air into the engine line from the galley, although I have had the galley working in tandem with the engine. Probably no more. None the less, during the most recent episode I shut off all the "taps/valves" so that the engine was drawing ONLY from the bucket of anti-freeze. With no success. Now that you have me thinking about it, I wonder if the strainer had gotten air in it? I don't know. Thanks for the response. |
#10
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising,uk.rec.sailing
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
hpeer wrote in news:494ecf5f$0$5535
: Now that you have me thinking about it, I wonder if the strainer had gotten air in it? I don't know. Thanks for the response. Isn't the seawater pump under the waterline? Is there anywhere in the hoses leading to the seawater pump that's above the waterline from the thru hull fitting? That would keep it from priming properly and might get an air bubble trap that can't be overcome. If the thru hull valve is open, and I pull off the hose from the seawater pump, I wanna see seawater come gushing out of that hose, unattended. See if yours does it. I want the strainer underwater, too. Damned air conditioner installed in Geoffrey's old Endeavour sloop used to lose its cooling water prime because of where the idiots mounted the strainer. I moved it all under the waterline...problem solved. Pull off any hose and prepare to be DROWNED. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Volvo Penta V8 Overheating | General | |||
Volvo MD7A raw-water cooling flush | General | |||
Volvo MD7A raw-water cooling flush | General | |||
Volvo MD7A and MD5A difference?? | Cruising | |||
Need Exhaust Manifold (volvo MD7A) | Cruising |